Author Topic: Timberjack 205---to buy? (Read 2529 times)

amberwood · « **on:** March 05, 2007, 06:07:39 am »

Morning all...just adding more gear to the inventory. Chanced across this 205 on my travels today. Ford 4cyl diesel, hercules winch.. Can anyone add more info?

To buy or avoid and at what price?

thanks
DTR

bull · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2007, 07:48:28 am »

rubber looks good, don't know anything about the engine..... Paint looks normal for the age of the machine......

? Oil Leaks... Grease piles etc... can't see them from this picture.....

amberwood · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2007, 04:44:42 pm »

pretty clean machine, minimal hyd leaks etc and does appear to have been abused too badly over its extended life. Original paint in the most part without excessive reweld/painting of cracks etc. Most of these machines i have seen advertised seem to have GM's in them..was the Ford motor an early option or is it a replacement?

thanks

DTR

Ed_K · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2007, 08:14:41 pm »

Motor is probably original.Look at the top of the winch if theres cable wear in the casting, on the sides left or right that'll tell if its been rolled over. Not that it hurt it

.

Scott · « **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2007, 08:45:55 am »

It looks really good. If its 1969 or younger then finding parts should be a breeze, thats as far back as the aftermarket parts guys go. It looks a bit more modern than my 1962 TJ 200. Also check the brakes, my skidder didn't have any when I bought it and no one makes replacement parts. The Ford was an early option. Its probably a D-172 (I think thats the name) They were available as a gas or diesel. Good luck!

amberwood · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2007, 04:41:01 pm »

yep checked the serial number against the JD listing. It is def post 69. might be back for another look later in the week.

DTR

burlman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 08, 2007, 07:52:06 pm »

I have one of these here for about 12 years now. It is small but it does me very well. Mine is a 1966. only real headache that I had was the Lucas starter. If it is a long tube looking affair with no external solenoid, beware. It is this 2 speed contraption, supposed to engage the gear slowly, thenspeed up to turn the moter over. I was contantlly running to the altternater shop for rebuilds. and super expensive to fix. I recently bought a used engine for it. Which came from a ford super major farm tractor, it has a starter that manually engages then a push button start. end of starter troubles. All the rest of the parts are easy to get, and all and all it is a pretty simple machine to work on, good luck with the purchase, there's no jack like and old jack....burlman

amberwood · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2007, 08:04:33 pm »

the ford engine is actually a plus for me..lots of older ford tractors locally for spares etc..have since found that that gearbox has been upgraded from the original to one from a locally avail for tractor...both diffs have recently been overhauled..and he wants AUD$10000. about US$7800.

DTR

burlman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 08, 2007, 08:11:12 pm »

yes I didn't read all your q's on the machine. I paid $10'000 canadian for mine, they are still hovering between $8500 to $12000 in the equipment trader

amberwood · « **Reply #9 on:** April 21, 2007, 09:12:08 pm »

It has come home. After a day of getting used the controls it is already proving very usefull. Amazing what the right tools do to speed up a job! Mucked around with the blade grading a new mill site then pulled a couple of trees.

No who can help with chainsaw stowage solutions. Right now the only spot for a saw is in the cab on the RH side on the fuel tank top. Can't help but clang teeth against roll bar etc. Can't be good for saw or machine. External holster?

DTR

Greenedive · « **Reply #10 on:** April 22, 2007, 12:01:09 am »

Nice looking machine. Amberwood!! I have a 208 Super E.

Just take a 3-4" diameter piece of hardwood and cut it the right length to just fit in there and slice 1/2 way through it lengthwise with your chain saw and it will fit down over that metal ledge and protect the chain. It is easier to slice it before you cut it to length.

They eventually wear out and have to be replaced but hard or soft maple will last for years.

arojay · « **Reply #11 on:** April 22, 2007, 09:53:14 am »

Nice looking machine, with the Ford no one will hear you coming. I have a JD 440B, more or less the same size. I have been buying the ABS barguards for a few years and carrying my saws on the right side of the seat inside the canopy. Thats the safest place I have found. The thin plastic guards are about 6 bucks can. and seem to last 4 or 5 months. They can be sent to recycling if you have such a facility. The more expensive ones of harder plastic last longer. I just wrap a bungee a few times and hook to the chain brake handle. I leave these things on my saws when I transport them in the truck, on the skidder, whenever I'm not using the saw. I've never had much luck with wooden alternatives personally.

amberwood · « **Reply #12 on:** April 22, 2007, 06:26:42 pm »

ahh there is some confusion over my question.

I have the Stihl bar covers and they live on the saw. I was wondering if anyone had build a external holster that would mean you could stash the saw(s) before you climbed up..

I was thinking of a ply "slot" mounted on the LH side on the doorway, blade mounted verticaly with the powerhead up above where the cab transitions from plate to mesh.

DTR

beenthere · « **Reply #13 on:** April 22, 2007, 07:21:57 pm »

amberwood
I made a plywood scabbard for my saw (20-inch bar), mounted it on the ROPS. Very handy, and now the saw isn't left on the ground. With me all the time, and rides real well......no vibration, etc.

amberwood · « **Reply #14 on:** April 22, 2007, 08:34:17 pm »

That is exactly what I was thinking.....ideally I can fit it on the side of the cab. At arms reach when on the ground saving climbing back in again to retrieve the saw, and unlikely to damage the blade.

DTR

Corley5 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 22, 2007, 09:49:50 pm »

I wouldn't carry a saw on the outside of the machine. It could get wiped off if you get too close to tree or in heavy brush. It'd be much safer in the cab.

isawlogs · « **Reply #16 on:** April 22, 2007, 09:58:42 pm »

I'm with Corley on this one ... Aintno way I would keep a sawon the outside of a skidder. Cut the peice of hardwood and keep the saw to your right in the machine , you will be able to get at it and be able to keep it longer in one peice .

Reddog · « **Reply #17 on:** April 22, 2007, 10:14:40 pm »

We would mount them on the hood right in front of you, or put a box on the back of the cab over hanging the winch area.
In the clarks we put em right under our feet, no shifters or levers.

semologger · « **Reply #18 on:** April 23, 2007, 10:39:50 am »

one thing i like about my 450 is it has doors so not to much worries about anything falling out. but it is a grapple also. used the winch only to pull trusks in winters

Greenedive · « **Reply #19 on:** April 23, 2007, 05:08:24 pm »

This is what I meant, Amberwood....works well for me, but everybody is different.

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Author Topic: Timberjack 205---to buy? (Read 2529 times)