Chain sharpening...teach me.

[leweee]

Remember there is at least a few other variables to circle cutting......Bar groove wear & chain driver wear have to be factored in too. One kind of influences the other.   Through in the bur that gets raised on the side of the bar & the newbie is really perplexed " why she don cut straight" So you have Cutter length, bar groove, chain driver & bar bur to take into account when confronted with "circle cutting"

[metalspinner]

Thanks, Leweee

I'll go check all of that out.  The saw cut perfect until that last "sharpening," so hopefully, correcting the chain will fix the problem.

[Woodsroad]

Take a look here, too:

Sharp Advice - A Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf

[SawTroll]

....

The jig snaps over the links, and for Stihl, needs to have the notch filed wider by just a very small amount.
...

...and slightly deeper (front ones). Some advice that you also "build up" the rear ones slightly, but I have never done that.......


Btw, I have never done this for .325 chain - 3/8" only.

[beenthere]

SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

[9shooter]

I would have to differ with some opinions here on proper sharpening technique. I use round files and was taught by a logger who had a reputation for having the sharpest chain around. He rapped my knuckles one day and showed me his technique. When sharpening any steel you end up with a burr on the cutting edge. So he files into the cutting edge so any burr is on the inside none cutting part of the tooth and also rolls the file into the top of the cutting edge at the end of each stroke. This is to also roll any burrs to the inside of the tooth. I have worked some as a cutter grinder in the auto industry so this made sense to me. The problem with a burr is that it will break off and dull the cuting edge slightly. I know this is splitting hairs somewhat, but I also know that his saws were sharp as heck. I think some of the manufacturers recomend sharpening inside out for saftey reasons. I always try to remember to wear a leather glove when sharpening because I have painted a few chains red.   It's a little harder to sharpen this way at first but you get used to it. I also keep the rakers filed properly.

[beenthere]

I've asked that question of several, and have not heard it recommended to file against the point. Something about the chrome (?) surface gets chipped off, and filing against the point is not the best. But I don't disrespect someone who likes to do it that way. Just won't myself. I think the file would have to be much finer 'grit' than what I normally use.

[TexasTimbers]

beenthere, I have been filing against the point all along, thinking that was the only logical choice. My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.
I have not been rolling it the way you describe 9shooter but will try that too. It does not make any sense to my little brain to file away from the point and leave a burr.
Chrome surface be Danged I will not leave a burr on my cutting point.

[SawTroll]

SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

I think you got the point, the file size does make a difference.

Just keep an eye on the file to tooth hight, and you will be fine.....

[Corley5]

My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.

Get a pair of ABN wheels (an 1/8" and a 3/16") from Bailey's.  Throw those grit wheels away.  I was a hand file purist until I got my MAXX grinder and outfitted it with good wheels.  I only use a grit wheel for rakers.  I don't care if I ever hand file again although I've still got my Fil-O-Plate in my wallet and some files in the glove box   

[jokers]

9shooter,

Not to show any disrespect but given that the chrome is flaked off by the file rather than abraded or smoothly filed away I think that you are worry too much about something that doesn`t significantly change one way or another. Now if we are talking grinding I agree wholeheartedly, grind into the sideplate and put the burr on the inside.

Sharpening inside out with a file gives you a much more supported position for the file. One of the primary difficulties for those who are attempting mastery of square filing is the outside in application of the file against chrome before it bears on the substrate steel but since bisection of the outside corner is critical, it is the only practical way to do it.

[TexasTimbers]

I have no idea what y'all are talking about really maybe I should stay that way my chain is s-h-a-r-p.

Corley I will try some of those from Bailey's though I have alot of chain I would not mind putting my grinder to use.

[buzzegray]

I'm just cutting softwood for the fireplace. I use a cheap 16" saw. I cut the rakers all the way down. I basicly grind them off to the chain on the first sharpening. I also make sure I don't loan  them out.

[cheyenne]

Old toolgrinders trick, Take the burrs off with a penny. No sharpened tool ever left my shop without it. Grinders have there place but even the one I have has It's limatations. Every time you advance too a new tooth the set finger is never in the same place because of all the slop in the setworks. These are not precission instaments like I had in my shop where you could adjust to a thousanth. Trying to figure that out (someday) If you use a grinder don't get the teeth hot, you'll lose the temper in the chain & keep your wheel clean. Clean your chain before grinding as the oil loads up the wheel. Oil + grinding dust = GLUE. And go slow..........Cheyenne

[John Mc]

I'm just cutting softwood for the fireplace. I use a cheap 16" saw. I cut the rakers all the way down. I basicly grind them off to the chain on the first sharpening.

What do you gain from that? It seems like that would tend to bog down the saw by trying to take too big a bite out of the wood. I know it's a bummer trying to bore cut when I go a little too far taking the depth gauges down.

[buzzegray]

The rakers being cut all the way down don't slow the saw down when cutting small (6to 10 in) soft wood.

[bandmiller2]

Quess its like they say different strokes,if your saw is running smooth in the cut and those big chips are coming out you done it right.If you want a real cutter, square grind with a good machine like a Silvey.I square grind some, round grind the chipper, and touchup with a file between grindings.When I file I use a vice to clamp the bar 1/2 teeth I file away the outhers I pull the file twords me [cutting direction of course] Frank C.

[Meadows Miller]

Gday

I just use Oregon handfiles with a wood grip handel ( they just feel rite ) no guide just freehand Ive brought and tryed most typs of sharpeners and jigs  Ive even got a oregon bench mount wheel type that cost Me $ 350 and not liked the finish apart from the handheld Grandberg sharpboy I think nothing beats the finish that You get with a hand file . It just takes alot of practice  plus what else can you carry around in Your pocket in the bush or the mill yard 
also if you can mount it in a vice it makes for an even better job 

Chris McMahon