Author Topic: Chain sharpening...teach me. (Read 5597 times)

metalspinner · « **on:** February 04, 2007, 04:45:56 pm »

Well,
I just bought a new chain for the saw. I have about five of them in rotation at the chainsaw shop getting sharpened when neccesary.

So, anyway, I just bought a new one and man, did that thing cut great. Which disappoints me because I've been paying these guy's to sharpen my chains and now I realize they were not doing a great job. With the money I've paid them over the past two years, I could have bought...well, something really nice. Is it possible to get them "factory sharp" at home?

What are ya'll favorate files and guides? Do I need to stay clear of any particular brand or "sharpening aid"?

sawguy21 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 04, 2007, 04:53:20 pm »

I use a file with the Stihl guide so I don't go too deep and start cutting the tie straps. Just give ieach cutter a few strokes as soon as the chips start to shrink in size, the chain will stay sharp and last a lot longer. Hard to find a shop that has someone who knows how and will take the time to use a grinder properly.

Gary_C · « **Reply #2 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:19:12 pm »

I cut with a harvester and sharpen only with an Oregon grinder. Filing by hand is just not an option because of numbers, time, and the amount of damage I can do to a chain.

The first thing you must do is get the top angle exactly the same on both sides of the chain or it will seem dull when it actually is not. The second thing to remember is to set your rakers down lower as you grind more off the teeth. I have never had a saw shop set the rakers down unless I insisted, and now I would not let them as most will not do a good job. I normally set my rakers slightly lower than specs. It is slightly more dangerous on a chain saw, not a harvester, but that is why I will not let anyone use my saws. You really have to know what you are doing if you do much bore cutting with more clearance for the rakers.

Another thing is it's difficult to switch between machine sharpening and hand filing because most machines do not have their wheel dressed properly or if they grind too deep.

To answer your question, yes you can sharpen better than factory if you know what you are doing.

beenthere · « **Reply #3 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:20:05 pm »

Learn to sharpen by hand and you will have chains sharper than factory or ones from a grinder wheel. Choice be yours.

Sprucegum · « **Reply #4 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:40:08 pm »

Sounds like you have 5 chains that have already paid for themselves.
Pick one to practice on, compare it to your new one and to your other old ones. Get the right size file and try to make the teeth look the same as they do on your new one, making allowance for the wear that has already happened.

When you think you are close throw it on your saw and see how it cuts - no so good? File some more til you get it right.

what better way to spend a Sunday afternoon?

metalspinner · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:48:10 pm »

Is filing best done on the saw. Can it be filed off the saw?

Also, are chainsaw files designed to sharpen on the push stroke only? Do I need a flat file as well?

Ianab · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:54:49 pm »

Quote from: metalspinner on February 04, 2007, 05:48:10 pm

Is filing best done on the saw. Can it be filed off the saw?

In the field it's easiest to do it on the saw. In the shop you can put a spare bar in the vice and use that to hold the chain as you sharpen it.

Quote

Also, are chainsaw files designed to sharpen on the push stroke only? Do I need a flat file as well?

Yup, they cut on the push stroke like a normal file. You will want a flat file and a depth guage to file down the rakers as the cutters wear down. You dont need to file them every time you sharpen, but they need adjusting a few times over the life of the chain.

It could be the rakers need adjusting on your old chains? If they have been ground 1/2 away and no one has filed the rakers to match it's not going to cut properly, no matter how sharp it is.

Cheers

Ian

beenthere · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2007, 05:57:39 pm »

I hand file most of the time with the bar in the bench vise, which gets the chain at good filing level with good body control of file. Push stroke, not against the sharp edge (some do this but I don't). The angle is easy to keep, and a couple good strokes will put a sharp edge on a tooth that isn't roughed up by rocks, dirt, or metal. Fence wire can be rough on teeth, as well as hidden nails and staples (stay completely away from buried porcelain insulators

).

I use a handy roller jig made by Pferd and sold by Husky. A slight amount of filing makes it fit nicely on the Stihl RS chain. The rollers keep the file at the right depth, and a handy flat plate on this jig helps set the rakers to the right depth too.

A pic.

wampum · « **Reply #8 on:** February 04, 2007, 07:06:56 pm »

you want to file or grind the chain @30 to 35 degrees and try to keep the side as straight as possible.Filing or grinding to deep will put a hook on the side.Its easy to see.If you have hit anything with the chain like steel or stone you will see a bruise on the chain this has to be ground down to eliminate the bruise,other wise the chain will not keep its edge and dull quickly. I usually file my chains @ 35 degrees for normal cutting.Your local saw shop should have a depth gage, they are easy to use,just get the right one for you chain usually .25 to.35 thousands simular to an inverted feeler gage. If your rakes are to high the chain has a hard time cutting,too short it digs in to deep.Also check your bar and grind off any edges or lips that have formed.Its also a good idea to check the bar groove to make sure it is still the correct tolerance for your chain and has not widened out.The groove should be close to your drive link thickness .50 .58 .63 ths.Iam new to the forum and this is my first post I hope that I have given you good info.Good luck and take your time

stonebroke · « **Reply #9 on:** February 04, 2007, 07:31:13 pm »

Go to Bailey's and buy one of the rigs from Pferd that do the rakers and teeth at the same time. IT IS SWEET. You never have to worry about the rakers being to high.

rebocardo · « **Reply #10 on:** February 04, 2007, 07:59:47 pm »

All the raker guides I have seen only work on full comp and not skip.

stonebroke · « **Reply #11 on:** February 04, 2007, 08:05:49 pm »

That is true. But I assumed that metalspinner was using full comp My mistake if he is not.

metalspinner · « **Reply #12 on:** February 04, 2007, 08:07:00 pm »

Thanks everyone. I will need to print this out and take it to the shop tomorrow with my new file and gauges. I need to see what the saw shop has available.

The pics are a big help.

Welcome, Wampum. (say that 10 times really fast.

)

I don't know what full comp is much less wether I have it or not

stonebroke · « **Reply #13 on:** February 04, 2007, 08:15:23 pm »

full comp is when the chain has its full complement of teeth, meaning all you can put on it . Skip has about 1/3 less. It is used generally on long bars where there the hp is marginally or on really long bars. Look at bailey's web site about the sharpening rig from Pferd. It made a big difference in my sharpening. Before I got it Icould not sharpen worth beans.

treeape · « **Reply #14 on:** February 04, 2007, 08:27:33 pm »

It will take a bit to learn , i know guys that have been running saws for years and they still can not sharpen a chain. If the shop that has been grinding your chain, over heated the cutter, you will only be spinning your wheels trying to sharpen it.

IMO I would stay away from those tools that sharpen and do the depth gauges at the same time, I have tried them and did not like them. I just use a file free hand.

I would suggest picking up some Oregon chain, as it the softest, it is also the easiest to sharpen. I also just sharpen them right on the saw. If you put a chain on a spare bar in a vise you will need a way to keep the chain tight, then it is hard to advance. Learning to do it right on the saw is best, so you can always sharpen in the field.

Here is a link to Oregon's site on how to sharpen a chain. Check some of the other chain manufacturers sites as they may have better instructions. http://www.oregonchain.com/faq.htm#sharpening

thecfarm · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2007, 09:30:30 pm »

Don't forget to use a marker on the chain.Real important to know where you start so you won't sharpen one that's all ready been done.Count your swipes.If you swipe twice,do that all the way around.I have a trick that really helps me.If the chainsaw is on my right I take 3 swipes,if its on my left I only take 2 swipes.Without realizing it,I take more off from one side than the other.I know some people will think I'm nuts,but it has worked for me for more than 25 years.I would sharpen the chain and it would run off on an angle.Use to drive my Father nuts.He could sharpen anything by hand and it would cut.Mine saw will cut too.I can even bring it back after hitting a rock.It does take alot of practice to get a chain right.I don't use any shapen aids because no one has never shown me how too.I just do it free hand.Around here the shops charge $6-7 to sharpen a chain.A new one can be bought for about $13.It's a lot cheaper to learn.Use a good file.When I feel they are not cutting anymore I get a new one.It's easier to put the bar in a vise.Do you know anyone that sharpen by hand.It's real easy once someone shows you how.They are classes for this too.I know the local high school had a night class for this.Check that out too.Any wood Expos coming to your area?They should offer that.

leweee · « **Reply #16 on:** February 04, 2007, 11:28:04 pm »

This might help.

Oregon Maintiance & safety manual

Nudgewood · « **Reply #17 on:** February 05, 2007, 12:31:04 am »

Gary_C wrote:

Quote

The first thing you must do is get the top angle exactly the same on both sides of the chain or it will seem dull when it actually is not.

Yep, that's the first thing you do after making sure all teeth are the same length; you don't want one or more riding higher (or lower) than the rest. Somehow I reckon you're going to be doing a lot of measuring. And, when you're working on a chain that doesn't have your fingerprints on it, you need to decide what the 'hook-angle' is going to be; that angle formed by the cut of the file and the TopPlate of the tooth -the cutting edge. Once you've set those two on all your chains, yourself, it's just a matter of ceeping the cutting edge bright.

%<

snowman · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2007, 07:37:33 am »

Theres only one way to become a good chain sharpener, repetition.Just keep at it, after 100 chains or so I finally got the hang of it.Now i can sharpen by feel, barely even need to see what im doing which works out well since im so dang far sighted lately, its all a blur to me anyway

gman · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:34:44 am »

Hey Beenthere,

Can you explain how you modified the Pferd jig to fit Stihl chains? If would be great if you could include some pics!

Thanks

billstuewe · « **Reply #20 on:** February 05, 2007, 09:17:33 am »

I use the Pfred filing devise--Make sure you get the correct one for your chain size. I use mine for milling so I file the top at 10 deg. I use to clamp the bar in my vise but did not like the Idea of clamping metal against metal so I made the wooden vise pictured, mounted it on a 12"x36" piece of 3/4" plywood and I clamp that to my pickup tailgate, trailer, bench or whatever. I clamp the saw in it and file away. Notice the permanent marker in the holder--Red--to mark the top of the first tooth sharpened. Saw two thin kerf lines at the top of the vise jaws at the correct angle that you sharpen (30 deg or 10deg if milling) and blacken them in with a permanent marker and use them as guides when filing. It takes a while to build but it has been a tremendous aid in my sharpening. The guidelines on top really improved my accuracy from day one.
Bill

All my Pictures are .jpg and this thing is not wanting to accept them. I need help attaching pics---sorry.

WDH · « **Reply #21 on:** February 05, 2007, 09:21:17 am »

That roller jig that beenthere showed is the best thing since sliced bread. With that jig, a person that does not run a saw or sharpen chains everyday can still do a jam-up job.

beenthere · « **Reply #22 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:30:17 am »

gman (and a big welcome to the forum

)
I will try to take a pic of the jig, showing the slot where the jig sets down onto the chain links. For the Stihl chain, the jig would not slide down over the links as they are apparently slightly heavier in cross-section. I filed the slots so they did slide over the links, and didn't have to file much to get it to work. Very minor fix.

I've filed with just a file for years, after discarding the dremel stones, a couple sliding jigs, and an Oregon clamp-on rig. All took took much time to get a chain touched up and ready to saw again.

For kicks, I heard about this Pferd jig and just decided to give it a try (about $8). Now, the file glides so easily and picking it up to move it to the next tooth is easy and quick, that I just use it all the time now.

Hope this helps.
Almost missed getting this pic posted.

The jig snaps over the links, and for Stihl, needs to have the notch filed wider by just a very small amount.

Billstuewe
Click on "help" above to go to a tutor on posting jpg pics. Looking forward to seeing your filing jig.

metalspinner · « **Reply #23 on:** February 05, 2007, 05:03:18 pm »

Just got back from the Co-op with the pferd jig and a couple files.

I'm swamped the next couple days, but will try it out mid-week. i will keep ya'll updated.

The jig came with two files (wrong size), a handle, and a flat file for $13. A pack of three Stihl files the correct size was another $4. Being able to sharpen my own chain...priceless.

SawTroll · « **Reply #24 on:** February 09, 2007, 06:12:18 am »

Quote from: rebocardo on February 04, 2007, 07:59:47 pm

All the raker guides I have seen only work on full comp and not skip.

The Husky combo guide will work for the rakers on skip as well, as it sets the depth for each individual cutter.

You will have to pick the right one, there are several different versions, for different kinds of chain.

Coon · « **Reply #25 on:** February 10, 2007, 10:57:49 am »

One thing to also remember is also to file the teeth from the inside out. I don't know how many people I have shown this to over the years because they were doing it backwards. It was no wonder why they could never get their chains to cut even the punkiest of wood. Was beginning to get frustrated let alone P.Oed at some of these guys because everytime they needed their chains sharpened they would bring them to me to do it. Had enough of it on my own saws to do. I have only one repeat customer to sharpen for now but don't mind doing it for him as he pays me well to service his saws up. Have shown him a few tricks but he says he'd rather pay me to do it right. The other day I sharpened the chain, set the rakers, blew out the air cleaner and changed the plug and he paid me $30 and took his saw home with him when he left. Did this service job while having a good B.S. session so all was good.

PawNature · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 pm »

One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.

jokers · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2007, 04:06:20 pm »

Quote from: PawNature on February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 pm

One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.

It has everything to do with age for me and I`m 46. Adequate lighting and magnification help me see what I`m doing which is especially crucial when I`m doing square ground. After doing enough round ground I can almost file by feel without looking. Cheap glasses from the Dollar Store or wherever in the range of +1.5-2 seem to work quite nicely.

PawNature · « **Reply #28 on:** February 10, 2007, 06:09:49 pm »

Quote from: jokers on February 10, 2007, 04:06:20 pm

Quote from: PawNature on February 10, 2007, 02:30:18 pm
One thing that I have found helpful. Nothing to do with age and eyesight mind you. I bought a pair of those magnifying goggles from HF and that really helps to see the tooth much better.
It has everything to do with age for me and I`m 46. Adequate lighting and magnification help me see what I`m doing which is especially crucial when I`m doing square ground. After doing enough round ground I can almost file by feel without looking. Cheap glasses from the Dollar Store or wherever in the range of +1.5-2 seem to work quite nicely.

Actually it has to do with age with me to.

woodhick · « **Reply #29 on:** February 14, 2007, 06:06:46 pm »

I too have tried many of the jigs on the market. Found the one that beenthere has showed. it's all I use now. It's pretty much bullet proof and cheap if it get's lost. Just make sure you buy one in the size of your chain as they are size specific. Still have a lot to learn but I can make the chips fly now!

metalspinner · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2007, 12:54:56 pm »

Well, I just got in from my debut sharpening and it worked great. I buried the 20" bar into a 30" oak and it pulled itself into the cut.

It only took about 5 minutes to sharpen it on the saw with the pferd rig. It usually took me that long just to untangle a new chain out of the box.

Thanks everyone!

beenthere · « **Reply #31 on:** March 02, 2007, 01:00:15 pm »

Good on ya, metalspinner

logbutcher · « **Reply #32 on:** March 11, 2007, 03:21:14 pm »

Quote from: metalspinner on March 02, 2007, 12:54:56 pm

Well, I just got in from my debut sharpening and it worked great. I buried the 20" bar into a 30" oak and it pulled itself into the cut. It only took about 5 minutes to sharpen it on the saw with the pferd rig. It usually took me that long just to untangle a new chain out of the box.

Thanks everyone!

The Pferd SharpForce tool is one of the best things since (drum roll) ---my 5C mouthpiece with Arban.

Musician joke here.
I've got one for each of my 3 types of Stihl chain. Don't forget to reverse the flat raker file when sharpening the "other" side of the chain. And, change the round file when the teeth get down close to the witness line.
Jokers: how the H can you be "done and gone" at 46 ??

jokers · « **Reply #33 on:** March 11, 2007, 04:02:31 pm »

Quote from: logbutcher on March 11, 2007, 03:21:14 pm

Jokers: how the H can you be "done and gone" at 46 ??

I think that it is important to fully understand what "done and gone" means before I answer

but if we`re just talking about eyesight and achy joints and muscles, yup, I guess I am!

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #34 on:** March 11, 2007, 04:14:00 pm »

" A scattered mind from a wreckless youth . . . "

That's my excuse when my wife or kids look at me like they can't believe I forgot to put my socks on or something like that which is associated with something which is normally unforgettable.

God may restore those who have abused their temples but sometimes He lets us keep our bad memory as a reminder.

beenthere · « **Reply #35 on:** March 11, 2007, 04:52:25 pm »

That is a good quote to remember........yah, like I will be able to when the right time comes.......

I posted a pic of the file jig I use (promised to do that, and upon looking back, missed it.......now if I could just remember that quote of kevjay's ..

).

leweee · « **Reply #36 on:** March 11, 2007, 07:18:12 pm »

beenthere...reply#7,#22,#35......old age does that to us.

beenthere · « **Reply #37 on:** March 11, 2007, 07:29:34 pm »

Don't dat beat all.........

Da Badgers lost today, and I'm wanderin aimlessly......

metalspinner · « **Reply #38 on:** March 11, 2007, 10:46:45 pm »

Something I did notice is the the green safty chain cannot have the depth gauges filed with that pferd jig.

BTW, my second sharpening attempt has be cutting circles.

Quote

my 5C mouthpiece with Arban. Musician joke here

Logbutcher, I'm with ya.

metalspinner · « **Reply #39 on:** March 13, 2007, 10:30:15 am »

After spending the day cutting circles with the chain I sharpened, I spent some time last night correcting the problem. I pulled out my calipers and measured all of the cutter's and came up with a .020" gap between the shortest and longest cutter's - hitting just about every measurement inbetween.

I filed and measured each cutter until they were within .003". Hopefully this will solve the problem. This took a little time, but was still less time than driving down to the Co-Op to drop it off for sharpening.

Has anyone actually measured to find what is an acceptable differential between cutter lenghth's?

leweee · « **Reply #40 on:** March 13, 2007, 01:35:54 pm »

Remember there is at least a few other variables to circle cutting......Bar groove wear & chain driver wear have to be factored in too. One kind of influences the other.

Through in the bur that gets raised on the side of the bar & the newbie is really perplexed " why she don cut straight" So you have Cutter length, bar groove, chain driver & bar bur to take into account when confronted with "circle cutting"

metalspinner · « **Reply #41 on:** March 13, 2007, 02:38:47 pm »

Thanks, Leweee

I'll go check all of that out. The saw cut perfect until that last "sharpening," so hopefully, correcting the chain will fix the problem.

Woodsroad · « **Reply #42 on:** April 09, 2007, 10:05:26 pm »

Take a look here, too:

Sharp Advice - A Guide to Saw Chain Maintenance
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf

SawTroll · « **Reply #43 on:** April 10, 2007, 08:32:26 am »

Quote from: beenthere on February 05, 2007, 10:30:17 am

....

The jig snaps over the links, and for Stihl, needs to have the notch filed wider by just a very small amount.
...

...and slightly deeper (front ones). Some advice that you also "build up" the rear ones slightly, but I have never done that.......

Btw, I have never done this for .325 chain - 3/8" only.

beenthere · « **Reply #44 on:** April 10, 2007, 10:02:51 am »

SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

9shooter · « **Reply #45 on:** April 10, 2007, 11:53:24 pm »

I would have to differ with some opinions here on proper sharpening technique. I use round files and was taught by a logger who had a reputation for having the sharpest chain around. He rapped my knuckles one day and showed me his technique. When sharpening any steel you end up with a burr on the cutting edge. So he files into the cutting edge so any burr is on the inside none cutting part of the tooth and also rolls the file into the top of the cutting edge at the end of each stroke. This is to also roll any burrs to the inside of the tooth. I have worked some as a cutter grinder in the auto industry so this made sense to me. The problem with a burr is that it will break off and dull the cuting edge slightly. I know this is splitting hairs somewhat, but I also know that his saws were sharp as heck. I think some of the manufacturers recomend sharpening inside out for saftey reasons. I always try to remember to wear a leather glove when sharpening because I have painted a few chains red.

It's a little harder to sharpen this way at first but you get used to it. I also keep the rakers filed properly.

beenthere · « **Reply #46 on:** April 11, 2007, 12:09:14 am »

I've asked that question of several, and have not heard it recommended to file against the point. Something about the chrome (?) surface gets chipped off, and filing against the point is not the best. But I don't disrespect someone who likes to do it that way. Just won't myself. I think the file would have to be much finer 'grit' than what I normally use.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #47 on:** April 11, 2007, 12:31:56 am »

beenthere, I have been filing against the point all along, thinking that was the only logical choice. My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.
I have not been rolling it the way you describe 9shooter but will try that too. It does not make any sense to my little brain to file away from the point and leave a burr.
Chrome surface be Danged I will not leave a burr on my cutting point.

SawTroll · « **Reply #48 on:** April 11, 2007, 07:35:44 am »

Quote from: beenthere on April 10, 2007, 10:02:51 am

SawTroll
Thanks for that tip. I will watch the shape of the tooth, and plan to deepen that notch.. so far, it seems to do fine, but may show as the tooth is taken down.
I do plan to switch to the smaller file, as the tooth is filed down. That likely will change the tooth shape with the roller guide.

I think you got the point, the file size does make a difference.

Just keep an eye on the file to tooth hight, and you will be fine.....

Corley5 · « **Reply #49 on:** April 11, 2007, 10:33:55 pm »

Quote from: kevjay on April 11, 2007, 12:31:56 am

My hand-filed chain is noticably sharper than when I grind it.

Get a pair of ABN wheels (an 1/8" and a 3/16") from Bailey's. Throw those grit wheels away. I was a hand file purist until I got my MAXX grinder and outfitted it with good wheels. I only use a grit wheel for rakers. I don't care if I ever hand file again although I've still got my Fil-O-Plate in my wallet and some files in the glove box

jokers · « **Reply #50 on:** April 12, 2007, 09:57:55 pm »

9shooter,

Not to show any disrespect but given that the chrome is flaked off by the file rather than abraded or smoothly filed away I think that you are worry too much about something that doesn`t significantly change one way or another. Now if we are talking grinding I agree wholeheartedly, grind into the sideplate and put the burr on the inside.

Sharpening inside out with a file gives you a much more supported position for the file. One of the primary difficulties for those who are attempting mastery of square filing is the outside in application of the file against chrome before it bears on the substrate steel but since bisection of the outside corner is critical, it is the only practical way to do it.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #51 on:** April 13, 2007, 12:41:41 pm »

I have no idea what y'all are talking about really maybe I should stay that way my chain is s-h-a-r-p.

Corley I will try some of those from Bailey's though I have alot of chain I would not mind putting my grinder to use.

buzzegray · « **Reply #52 on:** September 19, 2008, 08:08:44 pm »

I'm just cutting softwood for the fireplace. I use a cheap 16" saw. I cut the rakers all the way down. I basicly grind them off to the chain on the first sharpening. I also make sure I don't loan them out.

cheyenne · « **Reply #53 on:** September 19, 2008, 10:03:51 pm »

Old toolgrinders trick, Take the burrs off with a penny. No sharpened tool ever left my shop without it. Grinders have there place but even the one I have has It's limatations. Every time you advance too a new tooth the set finger is never in the same place because of all the slop in the setworks. These are not precission instaments like I had in my shop where you could adjust to a thousanth. Trying to figure that out (someday) If you use a grinder don't get the teeth hot, you'll lose the temper in the chain & keep your wheel clean. Clean your chain before grinding as the oil loads up the wheel. Oil + grinding dust = GLUE. And go slow..........Cheyenne

John Mc · « **Reply #54 on:** September 19, 2008, 11:39:06 pm »

Quote from: buzzegray on September 19, 2008, 08:08:44 pm

I'm just cutting softwood for the fireplace. I use a cheap 16" saw. I cut the rakers all the way down. I basicly grind them off to the chain on the first sharpening.

What do you gain from that? It seems like that would tend to bog down the saw by trying to take too big a bite out of the wood. I know it's a bummer trying to bore cut when I go a little too far taking the depth gauges down.

buzzegray · « **Reply #55 on:** September 20, 2008, 08:11:00 pm »

The rakers being cut all the way down don't slow the saw down when cutting small (6to 10 in) soft wood.

bandmiller2 · « **Reply #56 on:** September 21, 2008, 08:17:14 am »

Quess its like they say different strokes,if your saw is running smooth in the cut and those big chips are coming out you done it right.If you want a real cutter, square grind with a good machine like a Silvey.I square grind some, round grind the chipper, and touchup with a file between grindings.When I file I use a vice to clamp the bar 1/2 teeth I file away the outhers I pull the file twords me [cutting direction of course] Frank C.

Meadows Miller · « **Reply #57 on:** September 22, 2008, 09:12:41 am »

Gday

I just use Oregon handfiles with a wood grip handel ( they just feel rite ) no guide just freehand Ive brought and tryed most typs of sharpeners and jigs Ive even got a oregon bench mount wheel type that cost Me $ 350 and not liked the finish apart from the handheld Grandberg sharpboy I think nothing beats the finish that You get with a hand file . It just takes alot of practice plus what else can you carry around in Your pocket in the bush or the mill yard

also if you can mount it in a vice it makes for an even better job

Chris McMahon

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Author Topic: Chain sharpening...teach me. (Read 5597 times)