Transplanting a Hickory

[Frank_B]

I hired a local tree transplaning service to move a small (8 to 10 inch dbh) hickory (pignut or mockernut - not sure which one exactly) to a new house.  The job was done yesterday.  The tree spade pulled a root ball that was about 7 feet across and 6 feet deep - big truck with a big tree spade.  The tree was in a yard with several tree crowns above it, and is now out in the open with nothing to the east, south or west exposure, and a house on the north side.  It looks like a nice straight tree that's about 30 to 35 feet high.

Now that the tree is in the new location, what can I do this spring to give it the best chance at surviving the move?  Besides lots of water?

Thanks,
Frank

[SPIKER]

good food, also make sure it is tied up so it won't blow over, (noted open area now?)
water but don't flood it out...   may even think about a bit of upper branch prune removal thinning to form.   will help root system recover.   make sure no dead wood is still there.

I'm sure lots more will have better thoughts, these just off top of my head
mark m

[WDH]

Put mulch around it to keep the soil from drying out.  Keep it moist under the mulch.  If you fertilize this spring, go lightly.  The tree needs some time to put out new roots and get situated, so you don't want to confuse it.  If you keep it watered, nature should do the rest. 

If that hickory is pignut, the leaf will have 5 (rarely 7) leaflets and the underside of the leaflets will be smooth, not hairy.  If it is mockernut, there will be usually 7 leaflets, but they will be very hairy (tomentose which means hairy, that is why it is called Carya tomentosa!).   Good luck in your relocation.  Let us know how the tree is getting along.  (a pic with the new spring leaves would be nice!).

[Frank_B]

WDH -

Thanks for the input.  I was thinking about attempting to apply a rooting hormone product to encourage the re-generation of the roots that were cut - sounds like that's a no.

And thanks for the distinction between the pignut and mockernut.  I've got a good identification book, but this particular tree hadn't gained my focused attention until after this fall when it became apparant that this wouldn't be my home any longer.  The local arborist encouraged me to stay away from moving oaks because of his low success rate with them (trees from ten to fourteen inches dbh).  He claimed to have excellent success with hickories, so I picked out this one for the following reasons:  Height (about 35 - 40 feet); dbh (about 8 - 10 inches); stature (nice straight tree with even distribution of limbs all the way to the top); and already somewhat sun-tolerant (the tree wasn't deep in the woods, it was in the back yard in a *relatively* open area).

I'll take some pics and start adding them to the thread...

r,
Frank

[WDH]

Applying a rooting hormone would be OK.  The deal with the fertilizer is that some people think that if a little fertilizer is good, a lot more is even better.  That is not true.  Only a handful or two around the perimeter of the area under the crown should not be too much. 

The leaves of pignut and mockernut are very different because of the hairs on the leaf stalk and underneath the leaflets on mockernut.  Pignut should be as smooth as a baby's bottom (well, maybe not quite that smooth, but smooth nonetheless!).

I think that it is neat that you brought a tree from home with you.  I learned a little about the Bonsai culture and got excited about having a tree as a companion in a different sense.  I have had my oldest one in the pot for 24 years.  It is the same age as my oldest daughter.  I will try and post a pic.

[Phorester]

FRANK, that's not a "small" tree you had moved.  That's a much bigger one than is normally moved.  You are lucky to find a tree service company that can successfully move this size tree.  Hope it works out for you.

[Frank_B]

Yeah, I know it isn't small by nursery standards, but when compared to some of the hickory trees that have just been harvested, it looks pretty small.  When you look at the other trees around the house at the new location, it is a giant - well, it is the only *real* tree on the block...

The guy who moved it has the largest tree spade in the St. Louis - Metro area (or so he says...)  As stated in the original post, the root ball is about 7 feet across and at least 6 feet tall - the mover estimated it at six tons.

When the household move is done I'll take some pics and get them posted.

The real story will be told this spring when it buds out and, as I understand it, the spring of 2008 when it continues to survive.

[Dave Shepard]

Moisture is the key. Do all you can to maintain the moisture level for the tree. Mulch is good, but don't over do it, don't allow any mulch, or dirt to contact the root crown of the tree. It will encourage pests and decay. A thorough soaking every few days is better than constant saturation, you don't want to impede gas exchange at the roots. We have never moved hickories so I can't advise you on the success rate. 8-10 inch is about par for a 90" spade, and much larger for evergreens. Red oaks will move, white oaks won't. Your arborist, or the tree mover should also be able to help you with aftercare. There is a saying in treemoving "The first year is for show, the second year is slow, the third year they grow."

Dave

[SwampDonkey]

Keep it well watered Frank. I'd be concerned with it burning up, because it grew in shade and has more tender and broader shade leaves, thus more moister will be wicked from the tree and stressing the roots a bit. Water a couple days a week at least in the growing season for the first year. I hope it wasn't growing too suppressed. Best of luck, those hickories are nice trees. Wish we had'm up here. 

[Frank_B]

Well, here's a picture of the transplanted hickory.  It looks kind of skinny all by itself, but the buds are starting to swell.  We're keeping it watered.  Pay no attention to the house in the background - it isn't anything like the old place.  The neighbors seem closer than the old place's aeration system.  We'll adapt.  Having the tree in the yard helps



Frank

[WDH]

Frank_B,

That is a really nice tree.  We want you to post updates on how the tree is doing.  Also post some leaves and a pic of the bark when the leaves are fully out.  I am amazed that you moved a tree of that size, and I would like to follow its progress .

[SwampDonkey]

Looks like it has a good even crown Frank. I'm kind of worried about the diameter vs crown size. Might burn up in the summer heat or collapse from stem water uptake/flow (top part gets heavier than the stunk can support with all that extra water transported and transpiring through the leaves). Might think about anchoring against the prevailing winds and opposite it's leaning side with a loop of rubber tubing with rope passed through it and staked to the ground. Get a latter and loop the rig above the half way mark.

[Frank_B]

Update:  The weather here in southwest Illinois turned cold the middle of last week - and stayed that way for several days.   The weather folks recorded record low temperatures, and the local orchards lost all their peaches and are still assessing the damage to the apple crop.  The subject of this thread had already started to leaf out, and was really looking good; but, since the several nights of hard freezes the leaves wilted.  There's new growth still coming, though, so the tree isn't completely finished.

I'm just looking for opinions here...  One of the biggest concerns in a transplant is getting enough water to the crown as the buds set from the previous year start to open.  Well, the usual spring growth spurt has been stunted.  What will this do to the water uptake requirement?  I'm thinking it will be less since the initial growth of leaves was killed off.

I'd appreciate some professional input 

Thanks,
Frank

[Jeff]

On the front page of the forum all I could see was:

"Re: Transplanting a Hick"  I thought this thread meant Texas Ranger was moving back to MO.

[thecfarm]

That house looks fine to me Frank.That tree don't look too bad either.Good luck with the tree.I will be following this post.
I see Jeff is picking on that Texas guy again.

[WDH]

Once the next flush of leaves form, I would not think that the water requirement would change from what is was initially.  About all you can do now is keep the soil moist, but not sopping wet.  Once the leaves have fully formed, you might take a cup of miracle grow fertilizer and sprinkle it underneath the crown area and water it in.  Not too much.  Once the leaves are fully formed, we know that the tree roots are healthy and that little bit of soluable fertilizer will assure them a little boost of nutrition.

[WDH]

Can you give us a status update on how the transplant is doing?

[Frank_B]

Sure can...  The leaves are big enough for a picture now, so I'll take a few and post later this weekend.

The tree seems to be doing okay.  The water bill is gosh awful high, but the tree looks good.  We had quite a scare last evening as a big thunderstorm blew through - bent the tree over something fierce, but it hung on.  I know there was a recommendation to put cables on it to stabilize it; but, it just seems too big for that.  I'd need to call JULIE before digging post holes for the 4x4 stakes 

The bottom line here:  All in all, it seems like it is doing well.  I'm watching it closely.

Frank

[WDH]

Pics would be reassuring .

[SwampDonkey]

We had quite a scare last evening as a big thunderstorm blew through - bent the tree over something fierce, but it hung on.  I know there was a recommendation to put cables on it to stabilize it; but, it just seems too big for that.  I'd need to call JULIE before digging post holes for the 4x4 stakes 

 

 

[Frank_B]

Okay...  There are some pictures in the gallery titled "Hickory Transplant."  I'm clearly having an alzhiemer's moment this morning on how to include them in the post...

[Dan_Shade]

here you go, Frank!

 



 



it looks good, i hope it makes it.

[WDH]

It does look good, Frank!  With such a large amount of potential crown relative to the total height, I am hoping that it is spurred to put on many many leaves and get a good head start.

[Frank_B]

Thanks, Dan - I appreciate the assist on posting the pics    I went through the help a couple o' times - even had the wife sit down and look at it - it was just more than this old brain could figure out.  What's so frustrating is that I've done it before

Anyone have more ideas on whether or not is should be stabilized with cables?

[thecfarm]

Maybe this will help Frank,the new way to post pictures
It has been changed.If you know how to download into your gallery,this is the new way to get them out of your gallery.This should do it,if not someone will help you out.

[WDH]

Frank, how is the hickory tree doing?

[Frank_B]

In spite of a very hot summer and severe shortage of rain, it seems to be doing well 

After getting quite a scare during a strong thunderstorm early this summer, I bought 3 three-foot long fence posts, pounded them into the ground about twenty feet from the trunk, attached ratchet tie-downs to the posts with eye-bolts, and tied rope around the tree about 13 or 14 fet up using rubber hose to protect the trunk, and connected the rope to the opposite end of the ratchet tie-downs.  It seems pretty solid in most any breeze.

We haven't had much rain this year, and last measurable shower was two weeks ago and only dropped a half inch.  The tree gets two to three hours of water from a sprinkler three or four times a week.  I split the area around the trunk into four quadrants, and sprinkle each quadrant for a couple hours in the eveing, move the sprinkler and repeat the next morning, etc, etc, and then wait for the city water bill 

Here are some recent pics...

 
 
 


The tree didn't get a strong second flush, but I'm blaming that on a combination of the transplant trauma and a bad cold snap we had late this past spring.

Bottom line:  It seems to be doing okay - I'll keep you posted.

[beenthere]

Lookin great.. green leaves say a lot for your success..

[SwampDonkey]

Yeah, I don't see a dead branch on the old girl. 

[WDH]

She's a little sparse, but the old girl is coping well.  I am sure the water is vitally important.  It is also good to see her secured so well. 

We will need a pic of the fall foliage.  Don't worry, we will surely pester you in time for you to take some pics before the leaves fall .

[SwampDonkey]

I transplanted about 20 white spruce and 1 red oak while dormant and a few frost pockets still in the ground. Checked last week and not a dead one among them.  Trees were 2-3 feet tall. The oak was that one I thought was scarlet, still need to verify that. The leaves are stunted because of the move, but green.  It's on an old barn site so the grass is 3 feet high.  I want to fill the area in before I'm over taken by weeds. I'de rather have trees than dogwood and choke cherries. It's amazing I can see some wild maple seeding in on the less weeded sections and a ground squirrel must have buried some oak as well besides the ones I planted at the edge of the old garden. I don't see any nuts on any of the trees this year, accept the walnuts.

[Furby]

I'm wondering if installing a drip irrigation system would be better for you AND the tree.
You can pick up a simple kit that connects to your garden hose or faucet for a couple of $ at some box stores or check your local garden center.
I know of many nurserys that use a larger scale system for their nursery stock.

[Frank_B]

Hmm...  Drip irrigation...  I like that idea - it sure sounds cheaper than the sprinkler I'm using now 

Should it be set up around the drip edge, inside the original root ball, or perhaps a spiral that starts near the trunk and winds outward to the drip edge?  The drip edge hangs over ground that is outside the original root ball.  The original root ball is about six or seven feet across.

Thanks for the idea Furby 

Frank

[Lanier_Lurker]

The plantation I worked at in high school used drip irrigation in their pecan orchards.

The pecan trees sure seemed to like it.  I'm guessing a hickory would too.

[Kevin_H.]

Hey frank how's doug doing with your flooring?

the tree is looking good for all the dry weather we are having...

[Lanier_Lurker]

I'll suggest this for a drip system.

Off of a PVC main line run a ring of the black drip hose (not weeper hose) around the trunk at distance of 6 or 8 feet out from the trunk.

Then (using the little punch tool), insert some 2.5 gal/hr subterranean emitters into the drip hose - probably at 3 to 5 foot intervals around the ring (8 to 10 total).

The whole system should be buried at least 8 inches.  Don't want this stuff sticking up out of your lawn and have to dodge it with the lawnmower.

That will be some significant extra work up front, but will be worth it in the long run.

[Frank_B]

Kevin_H - thanks for the comment on the tree.  It has been the recipient of hundreds of gallons of Kaskaskia River water.  Unfortunately, I have to pay for every gallon Mascoutah pumps through their pipes.  Fortunately, all the tree water is running through a deduct meter so I don't pay the outrageous sewage rates for water that isn't headed to the treatment plant.

Doug's folks have put the white oak you sawed in and out of the kiln a couple of times, but always felt it was too wet for working.  I called just yesterday and learned they were finally happy with the moisture content and would start running it through the mill later this week.  Me thinks they didn't let it air dry long enough; but, I'll take the wrap for that, as I had asked if they could do the floor work while the house was empty during vacation last month.  Doug thought that was reasonable, but it just didn't work out.  I'm anxious to see it laid in the house.

Lanier_Lurker - Thanks for the watering suggestion.  It sounds great.  I'm currently using a soaker hose wrapped around the tree from about three feet from the trunk in a spiral out to the drip line.  The hose gets turned on for a couple hours in the morning and the same in the evening.  We've had some really dry weather the past few months, so there's been a lot of water run through the hose.  For the same dry reason, the grass hasn't needed much attention, so staking the soaker hose to the ground hasn't been too inconvenient.

[Riles]

4 hours a day every day is probably overkill. Give your water bill a break and start weaning the tree off the hose. Remember, water below the root zone is wasted for the most part (capillary action can pull some of it back to the surface).

Even a transplant only needs a couple inches of water a week and watering daily keeps the roots at the surface instead of growing down where the tree will be more drought resistant. It is possible to water a tree too much.

Try watering once a day, every third or fourth day. Your tree should be fairly well established by now.

[Frank_B]

Riles,

Thanks - that's what this thread is all about:  Trying to learn me how to care for this tree.  I appreciate the advice and will follow.

With September, the night-time temperatures are dipping below sixty degrees, and the day-time highs are only in the lower eighty's.  On the cusp of a season change, I've backed down on the watering.  My earlier characterization of a "couple hours in the morning and the same in the evening" was not accurate for the current time - my apologies.  It was like that during July and August when we didnt' have enough rain to dampen the bottom of a bucket for both months.  With nearly two inches of rain last week, the hose was off for several days.  Regardless, I'll take your advice and back off on the watering.

With regards to your comment concerning the tree being well established...  If I had followed the advice early on in the thread, I would be more confident; however, you'll notice from an earlier post that the tree suffered a hard blow with an early summer thunderstorm *before* it was strapped down.  That single error on my part may be the undoing of all the effort.  I can't swear to it, but I fear any fine root regrowth from the ball to the surrounding soil that had been initiated was damaged by the blow.  We've had a few more storms roll through, but the tree has remained rock solid from the tie-downs down.

As we enter into the fall, I'm going to keep the dirt at least "not dry" until the leaves start to turn; however, if one of you educated folks wish to correct me, please don't hesitate.

Again - for everyone - thanks for all the help on this on-going project.

More to follow...

Frank

[WDH]

Frank,

Is the old girl flush with fall color?

[SwampDonkey]

What color does hickory turn? I assumed yellow.

[Tom]

Old Hickory "wairn't yaller".  Ya best not let a Tennessee'n hear ya say that.

[SwampDonkey]

 smiley_rainbow_colors Uh Oh. 

[WDH]

They turn yellow around here .

[Frank_B]

Well, I wouldn't call it flush with color, but it has started to turn.  What with the extra dry summer, it has been stressed beyond the normal transplanting stress, and the leaves are mottled brown and yellow.  But, it is turning.  I'll take a picture this afternoon and get it posted.

[Frank_B]

Okay, so there's no picture.  We had a cool-down, rain, and then a strong breeze.  The leaves are all over the neighbor's yard

The hickory has officially fallen asleep for the winter, and I'm anxiously awaiting the spring.  We'll keep it staked and tied through the winter and see what March brings.

r,
Frank

[Frank_B]

I was going to wait a little longer, but after coming home from work yesterday and finding the buds swelling like they are, well, it just seemed like the right thing to do...

The hickory has survived the winter - IT LIVES!!!   

 

 

Frank

[Kevin_H.]

You know everyone in your neighborhood is going to be jealous, it looks like you have the only tree in the subdivison. 

[Dan_Shade]

That's awesome.  This has been a pretty cool undertaking for you, Frank!

[Frank_B]

Everybody asks about the tree, Kevin...  Not only is it the only real tree on the block, it is the biggest tree for several blocks.  When people come to visit we just tell them to drive to the tree - you can see it towering above the house three blocks away.  

fb

[SwampDonkey]

Looking good. 

[metalspinner]

It looks like the top has straightened itself up, too.  The first pic of the tree compared to the pic you just posted is a noticable difference in the straightness.  

[Timburr]

An incredible dream with it's own unique challenges 

You may have just set a trend.   A couple of decades down the line and the whole neighbourhood will be swathed in trees. 

Now that the tree is in it's second transplant year, it needs to "learn" it's relationship with wind.  If the guy ropes are slackened off, enough to give adequate lateral movement in a stiff breeze, the tree's root system will develop a wind firm resistance.  Do keep the cables on, because  a gale may still uproot it.  As the tree becomes more aclimatised to the present position, gradually "wean off" it's bracing dependency.

[SwampDonkey]

I can remember cleaning out my old orchard and there was a tall skinny cherry growing up above the apple trees. When I brushed those old trees out and cleared the under brush out I thought i was doing good. When the leaves came out on that cherry tree, and the sap started flowing, the tree bend over and the top was on the ground. 

[WDH]

Simply outstanding .

She is especially beautiful this spring, as Metalspinner points out. 

We need to see her when in full leaf-out, too .

[thecfarm]

That is good news.I know how important that tree is to you and how much it means that it survived the winter.

[Jeff]

I have to come in here everyday to check the content on this thread because my short tem memory sucks.  The forum truncates the title on the index to read "Transplanting a Hick" and I forget every time there is supposed to be a y to.

[Riles]

Umm, you can't transplant a hicky, you just have to give 'em away.

[Frank_B]

Thanks for the recommendation for the stabilizers.  I'm sure the new root growth between the root ball and surrounding ground is still quite fragile.  I'll keep it supported for another year, but let up on the tension a bit.  If anybody else has a comment on the stabilization process, please, please feel free to speak up.

The top may look straighter than before, but it really depends upon the wind direction.  The tree is quite flexible in the breeze, so, depending on the wind direction, it can look straight or laid in one direction or another.

And with the weather forecast - seventies through the week - the leaves should be opening very soon.  I'll follow with more pictures as the tree comes back to life.

And, hey - everybody - thanks for watching and sharing.  Bringing this tree in from the country has been an adventure, and sharing it with folks like you have made it even more fun.  Our great-grandchildren will likely not know very much about us, but those who look upon the woods with understanding will always appreciate how we cared for these resources.

Thanks,
Frank

[John Mc]

I'll second the recommendation for loosening up the stabilizers. I've seen a lot of recommendations over the last few years not to stake out trees at all when transplanting - it apparently suppresses some of the root and trunk growth needed to stabilize the tree. Of course, most of those examples were talking about much smaller trees. You had no choice but to stake this out if it was to survive.

I'd consider loosening the guy lines just enough to allow just a bit of sway in a good breeze this year. that sway will start to send the message that the tree needs to do something to stabilize itself. Don't overdo it... you don't want to give it a running start on jerking out your anchors or breaking a line. You can always let off more next year. Patience is the main thing... a year is nothing to a tree. They "think" in decades, generations, and centuries.

John Mc

[thecfarm]

John Mc,welcome to the forum.What brings you here?

[John Mc]

I was actually on a few years ago, but either got lost in the shuffle, or forgot/lost my username and password (been through 2 computers since then). I've been lurking off and on since then.

I own 80+ acres of forest land here in Vermont, on the edge of the Champlain Valley. I'm also part of a group of co-owners of a 112 acre Forest a few miles from my home. This land is protected by an easement which assures it will remain a working forest permanently. I've been interested in sustainable forestry and preserving working forests for some time. Also involved with a non-profit here "Vermont Coverts: Woodlands for Wildlife" which is dedicated to educating landowners about managing for wildlife, and integrating wildlife concerns into timber or recreational use of their forestland.

I don't have a long background in forestry or logging, but have been making up for lost time, educating myself, attending seminars and training programs, and getting out and working in the forest. [For someone like me, the "Game of Logging" chainsaw training has been a lifesaver (literally)... I want to be around to see my kids grow up, and have full use of all my limbs while doing so.] Some of the co owners of the forest parcel I mentioned and I have been slowly gathering various tools and equipment to harvest firewood and do timber stand improvement work on that parcel and our own property. The most recent purchase was a small logging winch to go on my tractor. It's only winched one log so far... the paint is not even scratched, but that will change once things thoroughly dry out around here.

Good to be here, and thanks for the welcome!

John Mc

[Frank_B]

And here it is, almost a month later...





The shot of the leaves is the same as the shot of the buds that was posted on Apr 12th...

We've had a great spring for rain - well over normal averages - with moderate temperatures and no late freezes.  The old girl has really taken off 

r,
Frank

[SwampDonkey]

Yup, going to be a beautiful tree.

I have to transplant a 7 foot tall butternut tomorrow. I planted some nuts in that spot and one took hold.  I can't remember how long it has been, but the tree sure seems to have grown fast. Either that or time sure flew by.

[beenthere]

Frank
Nice tree, and a good reward for you takin the chance and doin the work. 

[Lanier_Lurker]

It is hard to tell if those leaves have 5 or 7 leaflets.  Are you any more certain of the species yet?

Looking good for sure.  Moving a hickory of that size is quite an accomplishment.

[Frank_B]

There's seven leaflets on a pitole...  but...

  THE WIND 

This morning we woke up to gusts that the manometer recorded at 44 MPH.  Two of the up-wind stabilizers had blown.  You may recall they are a combination of rope and ratchet straps.  One of the ratchet straps ended up at the end of the driveway, a good 80 feet from where it was anchored.  The wind continues to blow, but the hickory is only swaying.  The root ball is looking solid, as a matter of fact, I'm watching out the window right now, and the trunk, from ground level up to about ten feet is rock solid.  The crown is bent over with the blow from the west hanging in around twenty MPH.

Here's what it looks like right now...

 

Here's my plan:  After the wind dies down - tomorrow supposedly - I'll do a close inspection around the outside edge of the root ball.  If the soil isn't disturbed, the stabilizers are coming down.

I'll take any advice if anyone has a better idea or wishes to correct my plan...

BTW:  A small silver maple hybrid that was planted in the back yard last year...

 

This one needs help...
Thanks,
Frank

[Lanier_Lurker]

Yes, that wind has been hitting us here for the last couple of hours.  The gusts must be near 50mph.

It is making one heck of a mess.  I have new growth getting blown off about 6 different species of mature trees.

Sounds like you probably have a mockernut.

[semologger]

I picked a heck of a day to plant a bunch of white pine saplings today. The wind blew those littlt things all over it. Man when you plant a tree you plant a tree frank. I was havin fun with these 2 foot saplings you go full scale.

[WDH]

Frank,

If it is mockernut, the leaf rachis (stem the leaflets are attached to) will be wooly.  If it is pignut, the leaf rachis will be smooth as a baby's bottom. 

Pignut usually has 5 leaflets, but I have seen it with 7.

I hope the old girl hangs in there..........

[Frank_B]

I'm thinking it is a mockernut.  I'll check the leaf rachis for wool this afternoon.  And thanks, WDH, for gently correcting the terminology.  My lack of knowledge is proven on an alarmingly regular basis.

And just an adjunct to the blown stabilizers on Sunday...  The ratchet ties were connected to metal fence posts with quarter-inch eyebolts.  The two that blew apart both failed at the eyebolts - they look more like J-bolts now...

r,
Frank

[John Mc]

Here's my plan:  After the wind dies down - tomorrow supposedly - I'll do a close inspection around the outside edge of the root ball.  If the soil isn't disturbed, the stabilizers are coming down.

I'll take any advice if anyone has a better idea or wishes to correct my plan...

Frank - With all you've gone through to transplant this tree, not to mention the fact that it's now a neighborhood landmark, I'd hate to see you lose it. Might it be worth considering replacing the stabilizers, but leaving some slack (maybe a foot or more, depending on how far up the trunk you go)? This might allow some swaying, and encourage the tree to develop root and trunk systems to support itself fully... but would prevent a huge windstorm from tearing things loose. As an alternative to slack, you could spring load it (springs or large bungees) that would allow swaying, but have a hard stop at some point.

If you do go with the slack in the guy lines, consider upgrading the 1/4 inch eye bolts you were using. If the slack ever get's pulled out, the tree already has a flying start at yanking on the bolts. You could weld the eyes shut, or pass the ties through them and anchor to the post itself.

I don't know how big the root ball was when you planted it, but that tree has a lot of height. It makes ofr a long lever trying to pry those roots out of the ground in a strong wind. I've never attempted to transplant something like that. Others might have more experience in this area. If it were me, I'd go slow. A year or two is nothing in the life of a tree, and you don't want to see all your efforts go to waste. You have to wonder what would have happened if your stabilizers hadn't been there for at least part of that wind storm.

John Mc

[Frank_B]

The stabilizers are reconnected.  The quarter-inch eye bolts were dropped in lieu of connecting the ratchet tie-downs directly to the fence posts.  Heck, if the eye bolts broke and the fence posts stayed put, why not eliminate the weak link, right?

There's still an easterly tilt to the trunk, but, we'll just have to wait and see how it does this summer.

The root ball was about six tons, John Mc, with a diameter of about ninety inches and depth of six feet.

r,
Frank

[John Mc]

The root ball was about six tons, John Mc, with a diameter of about ninety inches and depth of six feet.

That's a heck of a root ball!

[Frank_B]

Okay, Gentlemen and Ladies,

This marks the start of the 3rd growing season for this young hickory tree.  I'm thinking it is looking pretty good, especially considering the blow that nearly knocked it over a year ago.  The stabilizers are still on the tree, and I'm looking for advice on when to take them down.

Here's some pics:

 



 



regards,
Frank

[SwampDonkey]

I would not rush it Frank. The tree has a small trunk for it's height. So, I'd leave everything in tact for a couple years. I wonder how old it actually is? I know I've transplanted some tall skinny maple and black ash and the maple didn't live past 3 years. The ash died from disease I believe though over a 10 -15 year period. I still have a couple of those, but boy the rings must be real tight. Very slow growing. The maples were old suppressed trees, probably 40 years old and less than 2" diameters. 

[Frank_B]

SD,

The tree is about 30' tall and has a 7" DBH.  I have no idea how old it is.  It came from the backyard of the old place, and was surrounded by much taller hickory and oak trees.

I'll take your advice on leaving it trussed up for a couple more years.  Speaking frankly, as only I can, I am more than a little nervous about letting it go unfettered yet.

Thanks,
Frank

[John Mc]

Frank - my understanding is that you actually WANT the tree to do some swaying in the wind, so that it puts some of its energy into stiffening itself up. I read something a while back that a lot of towns planting trees in urban/suburban settings are leaving off the guy lines altogether - so that the trunk will strengthen itself. Of course, they are usually talking about much smaller trees.

One thing worth considering: instead of removing the guy lines altogether, is it possible to "spring load" them. So there is a bit of give and swaying allowed, but it's stopped before it goes far enough to disturb the root system. Clamping both ends of a spring to the guy lines, leaving a bit of slack in the guy line between the clamps might allow the springs to take some stretch, but still have the cable pull tight before things went too far.

Just thinking out loud here...

John Mc

[Lanier_Lurker]

SD,

The tree is about 30' tall and has a 7" DBH.  I have no idea how old it is.  It came from the backyard of the old place, and was surrounded by much taller hickory and oak trees.

I'll take your advice on leaving it trussed up for a couple more years.  Speaking frankly, as only I can, I am more than a little nervous about letting it go unfettered yet.

Thanks,
Frank

Yep, that tree sure has the profile of a forest grown tree.  Hopefully it will grow a bit taller for you and provide a little shade.

It sure looks lonely.  Perhaps it needs a friend?   

[WDH]

The little hickory is looking nice .  Thanks for the update.  The guy-lines won't hurt for a little while longer.

[Frank_B]

Well, gentlemen and ladies,

This isn't good news... The tree continues to leaf out but it just isn't thriving.  There are several dead sticks on the tree, with most of the very top leafless.  The leaves appear healthy to me; but, there's no new growth shooting out of any of the branches.

Day before yesterday I had a licensed arborist come by the house to take a look and render his opinion.  He said the tree is on the way out.  His initial diagnosis was an ill-fated attempt to transplant a tree that should not have been moved.  He believes the root ball has not regained any growth.

So, there's a decision to be made.  He offered - at expense - to trim the dead wood and shoot the roots with phosphate in an attempt to stimulate root growth.  A treatment now, another in the fall, and a third next spring.  The total bill will be something less than $400.  Then we wait until 2015 to see if the tree is going to recover.  His prognosis is dim.

The other side of the coin is to cut the losses and replant with a healthy tree.  I'd lose the hickory that followed us here way back at the beginning of this protracted thread, but, the house would have a healthy tree in the front yard - albeit one that looks like the rest of suburbia, USA.

I guess I'm venting more than anything here...  If anyone has a suggestion on which direction to take, please feel free to chime in.  Was transplanting this hickory really too far off the scale?  If it were your tree, would you spend the additional dollars on slim hope?

Man, this is a real bummer.

Frank

[John Mc]

What a bummer!

I had always heard that you are better off transplanting a small tree and letting it grow - less of a shock to the system, but I was really hoping this one would work out.

In addition to the shock to the tree's system, I'm wondering if they were just not able to get enough of the root ball for a tree this size to be viable.

John Mc

[beenthere]

Well, gentlemen and ladies,
...........  He offered - at expense - to trim the dead wood and shoot the roots with phosphate in an attempt to stimulate root growth.  A treatment now, another in the fall, and a third next spring.  The total bill will be something less than $400.  Then we wait until 2015 to see if the tree is going to recover.  His prognosis is dim.
.........

Frank
Sorry to hear it too.
But I'd skip the expense of trimming the dead wood and just do the phosphate treatment. Should be a lot less expensive. If it ends up positive, then do the dead wood trim.
But wouldn't talk you out of putting in another new tree in the meantime.
Our hickory trees are dying out apparently from a borer getting into the tops. Neighbor next to me has lost a number of shagbark hickory trees, but I've not lost many (yet).

[WDH]

Frank,

It was a stretch for a tree of that size to overcome the stress of a transplant, but I applaud your efforts to establish the tree and what it represents.  One thing to consider would be to give the phosphate treatment a try before throwing in the towel.  Trimming the dead branches off would not render any significant benefit to the tree, and it will only trim your wallet.

You might consider doing the phosphate treatment yourself to save some money. 

[Frank_B]

WDH,

Thanks for the recommendation to leave the dead wood and save the wallet - I'll do that.

Concerning the phosphate treatment, can you offer any advice on quantity, delivery method, and delivery technique?  Would anything containing high levels of phosphate work if sprinkled on the ground, or should I look for a liquid to inject or a spike to bury?

Not being an arborist, I'm still seeing lots of green where the professional who looked at the tree saw dead and dying wood.  I'm not anxious to cut it down, and if there's still a chance, I'd like to give the tree as much opportunity to succeed as possible.

This has been quite an adventure for the past three and half years, and I sincerely appreciate everyone's advice.  You wouldn't believe how many folks have stopped by and said they're pulling for the tree!  It is quite the conversation piece in the neighborhood - much more accepted than the bee hive in the back yard...

Frank

[WDH]

Frank,

It can't be that hard to drill some holes around the root zone of the tree and put in the phosphate, however, I do not have any specific experience on the kind and amount of phosphate.  You could ask the arborist for a recommended prescription, but if the arborist won't give it to you, contact the County Agent or Extention Office to get a lead on where you can get that info.

Our own Dodgyloner here on the Forum may have some experience with this or he may know where to get the specific info.  He has been scarce on the Forum since getting married in May. 

If you cannot get the info you need from the arborist, the County Agent or Extention Office, send me a PM.