Calling All TimberKing Owners

[fstedy]

It would be nice to know who amongst us is a TK owner. Especially the B-20 owners so that we know who to contact for help when we run into specific problems with our mills. I know posting on the FF is usually the preferred method but with our limited group here many times you don't get the answer promptly. Wouldn't it be great to have a Bibbyman that uses a TK mill. He and several others seem to know all the specifics on the ORANGE side and it would be nice to have some goto TK members.

[Bibbyman]

We're TimberKing owners.  We have one of their blowers!  Does that count?

Here is a link to a post I made about or visit and tour of TimberKing.

Bibbyman visits TimberKing

[fstedy]

  You Da man BIBBY you and everyone is welcome just posted it to flush some of us TK'ers out. Who's gonna be the first to expand on flush I know its comming!

[LeeB]

I got orange and red too. The red is only a 1200 though. Can't help you with the B20. I used the 1200 for about 6 years before moving over to an LT40 Super. LeeB

[Kcwoodbutcher]

I run a 1600 but if you have problems with a B-20 give me a holler, I have some contacts at TK and maybe I can help.

[ladylake]

I've had a B20 for a little over 4 years about 5000 hours, any troubles give a holler.   Steve

[rewimmer]

I have a new TK B-20 and have to go completely through it and repair many problems because of improper assembly. They are great mills and the company is selling more than they can produce so they are really, according to mine, throwing them together. I can rebuild them now and do service work on them. Mine only has 107 hours and I believe all the kinks are worked out of it now except one. The head will not go all the way up to the limit switch and I have adjusted the clearances per their service dept. The problem I think is in the lead screws that raises and lowers the head but it is under warranty and I ask them to fix it. TK said they would come by when in this area next time and take a look at it. I would enjoy communicating with other B-20 owners.
Robert in Virginia

[sgtmaconga]

I have a 1220 that i got in november. love the mill and the people at timberking are great too. i've even seen the boss of timberking posting here on the ff

[LeeB]

Mr.. Johnson has posted a few times but not many. LeeB

[flip]

I'm in the mix too.

Flip

And to add to this I wish TK would update their site.  When I was out there I saw so many cool things that other TK owners would love to know and probably buy (eg blade swab/luber.)  How about the new models that have a higher HP engine and the self loading loader arms.  Since I started looking at and for mills, their site has not changed.  I said something to a few of the sales guys and a few of the guys that were working on my mill but I have seen nothing yet. PLEASE UPDATE THE TK WEB SITE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

[Samh200]

Hello... I'm a TK B-20 owner also. I'm way down south in Ms, on the Gulf Coast. I'm new to this forum but im glad i found it, it looks like a nice warm place. I got my mill in july of 06. I got the mill for personal use and a litte job here and there and really injoy it alot. "BUT" i have had my ups and downs with it mainly dipping and wavy boards but i also think it alot to do with me and my Professional sharping and tooth setting skills   the dipping boards dont bother me alot except my pride. I just build barns and sheds and ruff cut jobs here and there so its not a big deal. but i do want to fix this problem before i need to do nice job for the public.

[Dave Shepard]

Welcome to the Forum!

We've all made wavy boards, it's just part of the learning process. What kind of logs are you sawing? White spruce drives me crazy with the knot waves, like white pine myself.


Dave

[Samh200]

Mostly just pine and oak

[Greg Cook]

TK 1200 parked here.  And, like others, I have had to do some reworking/modification work.  And all of it stemming from careless factory assembly. They have been quite handy to supply any parts I need, but some things just had to be fabricated as I went.  I am happy with the current status of it, but it's been a long road getting here.  Makes me glad a got the smallest and not a full-size mill, as I'd still be retro-fitting


And I want to say how much I enjoyed everything and everybody at the Final Gathering last October.  A really beautiful orange autumn day.  I'll be going back there again, I just know it. 

[fstedy]

I'm working on a logdog retrofit for my B20 similar to the WM but with a rack and pinion driven by a hydraulic motor. Called TK 2 times about a retrofit and was promised information I'M STILL WAITING 3 MONTHS LATER!!! . I know the're one of our sponsors but how can you do business with them if they won't respond. Maybe Mr. Johnson should have a talk with his sales staff.

[Dave Shepard]

Samh200, I generally have good luck sawing pine and oak. I do have some trouble with oak logs that have a steep butt swell, blade tends to rise and fall in the first foot or so. If I go slow, I can usually get through it ok, frozen is the worst. I am running older Wood Mizers, but the same principles should apply to most any bandmill, here are some things I have done to help avoid waves:

Aligned blade guide rollers and bandwheels.

Tensioned drive belt, it it's loose, the band can slow down in tough spots and cause a wave.

Maintaining proper band tension. I find that after running a little, the band tension can back off a little bit, this, too, can cause a wave.

Bands. I fortunately haven't had to mess with bands very much, but the wrong band can really cause trouble. We run Wood Mizer DoubleHards and use their Resharp service. We run a 10° for most sawing, and a 4° for frozen or very difficult sawing. There are a few people on here that have more bands than I'll ever need, I am sure they can help out if you have any sharpening questions. There are also many old topics related to sharpening, a search should yield plenty of results.

Is there anything TK specific you TK guys could add?


Dave

[flip]

I've learned that if you want to speak to someone that follows through and "get's it" you need to speak to Mike Anderson.  If we had the sales guys here at our car dealer that they had we would be out of business.  Understand now that I love my B20 and will buy another one in the next few years but their sales staff is not good.  My last experience I had I got someone elses order, I called the guy because it looked like a hot order (overnight).  I called the customer myself and shipped it to him.  I got a "thanks" from their sales guy and had to still wait 2 weeks for mine.  I sent Johnson an email to let him know my situation and how it was handled.  Never got one back.
I have suggested several times that they need to update their site and I guess the right people STILL havn't seen or read these boards.  There are so many things that TK has to offer that most people don't know exist because the site is bare bones.
I saw the prototype dog when I was out there.  Basically you add 1 new hydraulic port (have to cut a notch out of the control station).  Add some lines.  The up and down on the dog is a hydraulic cylinder set up like WM.  Back and forth is a hydraulic motor that runs the shuttle back and forth on #40 chain.  If Getoverit still has his mill the dogs on it are built almost exactly like TKs (don't ask me how I know)

TK has a great product that serves a bunch of sawyers well, just wish they had the cust service to back it up.

[SamB]

New owner of TK1220. Very satisfied with it's performance so far. Even a rookie can make some good looking boards !
Thanks FF for the educating info and interesting reading.
Sam

[Rodney Sinclair]

Another 1220 owner down here in lower Arkansas.

Rodney

[sgtmaconga]

Hey Rodney

What issues have you run up on?

i had an issue with the trolly bearings running dry so i drilled out some bolys and added grease fittings to shoot into the bearings.

[fishman]

in 3 years i have replaced guide bearings and trolley wheels, had sevaral minor problems(,part were mine)  I have never had problem with anyone at TK, parts were sent quickly, all calls were returned same day, they were the only mill co. that acted interested in talking to me before i bought mine, that played a major part in my decision,  i dont think i should have beg someone to take my money for anything,  just my 2 cents

[BillI]

Just purchased a used TK B-20 and had some problems. Some problems were solved by Mike at TimberKing and the bigest problem with breaking bands was solved thanks to member rewimmer he known the B-20 inside and out !!  Thanks again Robert.

[rewimmer]

You are welcome Bill and I see you are taking up my habits and tracking this forum as well.
 By the way I changed the oil mixture in the modification to the lead screws. They are now running in 80W90 & bar oil mixed half and half. The 80W90 seems a little thin when I changed it and the acme threads should have a little heaver oil in this warmer weather. It is good to hear from all these TK owners.
Robert in Virginia

[thecfarm]

SamB and BillI welcome to the forum.What's the plan with the sawmills? Going into business,sawing for yourself?Going to buy logs?Building anything?   

[SamB]

SamB and BillI welcome to the forum.What's the plan with the sawmills? Going into business,sawing for yourself?Going to buy logs?Building anything?  
[My plan is to saw some of my own timber for personal use. The first project is a saw shed for the TK1220.
Sam/quote]

[flip]

OK, I'll bite.  What kind of mods. did you make to the lead screws?

[KjBarnwood]

I've got a TK B-20 that I've had for 2yrs., and have less than 100hrs on.  So far, I've only cut barn beams.

I have had some trouble with my setworks, they keep jumping whenever the mill vibrates...any suggestions?
Also, does anyone have any mods to help throw the sawdust further away from the mill?

Keith

[fstedy]

I duct taped an 18" piece of 5 or 6" flex drain pipe to mine its cheap and works great. I thought TK recommends white lithium grease on the acme screws. Had thought of putting a drip oiler on them. How did you deal with the problem of the head not rising completely up? Its a real pain cutting anything over 32" diameter because the acme screws will hit the log side unless the log is shifted to the left and positioned very carefully over top of the log stops. Haven't started the powered dog mod yet and also a powered mod for the blade guide. But I have it worked out in my head (I THINK ).

[ladylake]

Keith  You need to throw the cord reel that TK put on the mill away and get a industrial one.  The ground circut in the TK cord reel doesn't make good contact all the time, even when they are brand new.  I fought with the setworks for 3 years untill I put a good cord reel on, now the setworks work every time.  I got mine from Ebay used for $100.  It's been on for 3 years now 2500 hours.  Steve

[ladylake]

fstedy  You lost me, where did you duct tape that pipe and what does it do?    Steve

[fstedy]

Taped it right on the sawdust chute. It directs the sawdust down and away from the mill. Closer to the ground so the sawdust doesn't have a chance to fly around as much.

[Greg Cook]

Ladylake, I have a neighbor (12 miles away) with a B-20 and the same problems keeping his setworks going.  He keeps taking it apart and cleaning the contacts, but I think I'd have to find something better.  Was there a brand name on your cord reel you got from Ebay?  Maybe I can help him out.

Thanks,
Greg

[ladylake]

Greg The problem with those reels is the ground circut, the other 2 circuts work good. The ground goes through the center somehow, never did figure out how but it is eratic.   The one I have is a Appleton (I picked up a spare one too for $75) which has a 4 wire cord , used 3 for the setworks and the 4th for a remote throttle which I'd never be without again. This reel has contacts like a alternator, brush and spring. Had to make a new mount which was fairly easy. I just looked at Ebay
 Item 270226390600 Coxreel  6 months old $205
Item 160227428236 Aeromotive older 8 conductors $70 . I might have to bid on this one.  If I had a couple more wires I could make the dog go up and down with a electric motor.     Steve

[flip]

I've pretty much give up on my setworks.  I tried 5 different cord reels (different brands same type design) and get the same result.  I've yet to come across a deal on an Appleton reel so I've just made some cut sticks up.  I have several I used magnetic tape on so I can change depending on what I'm cutting for.  I can't believe they havn't come up with something better yet, unless they have and we have to call them and beg.

[ladylake]

Flip   If you want to try something that doesn't cost anything, take one of your old reels, duct tape it to the one on the mill and run the ground circut through the black or white (I think the green one is the ground, it's been a while since I had it apart) wire on the taped on one, you can leave the original circut in place, just double them up. That's how I found out that was the problem.  You'll be running two wires which I ran for a couple of months with no problem.  Once you get the setworks working you'll like them.   Steve

[ladylake]

Do any of you have trouble with the sawdust chute plugging when sawing pine?  Any cures?     Steve

[pineywoods]

Do any of you have trouble with the sawdust chute plugging when sawing pine?  Any cures?     Steve

Not unique to TK mills... WM plugs up with pieces of bark.  If you think pine is bad try cypress

[flip]

Havn't sawn a whole lot of pine but the 8,000 bf of white pine we did there were no issues of plugging.  We cleaned the guards off when we changed bands because there was some pitch building up, otherwise no problems.  As far as chute mod. I used a 6" piece of tire innertube and screwed it on at the exit port, all my dust falls straight down on top of the wheel.

[fstedy]

Anybody have the Gates or BF Goodrich number for the B-20 drive belt with the 27 hp Kohler engine?

[uncle john]

I joined a while ago but have not posted much - mostly been looking at posts on past subjects. I do not and have not owned a mill - but I plan to purchase one and am interested in the Timberking 1600. I see that the folks commenting on this subject mostly own the B-20 and there have been a fair amount of comments on owner modifications to that mill. Some appear to be design corrections (comments about the set-works for example).
Are the very latest B-20's improved or are the owner modifications simply the result of capable operators improving on an already functional design? Are there similar comments in regards to the  1600?

[ladylake]

The setworks work great with a good cord reel, the log dog is a bad design, doesn't like to turn up all the time but thats a easy fix also.  Other than that it's a well designed mill, nice and simple with lots of over the counter parts. Great hydraulics on the B20.   Steve

[1938farmall]

uncle john,  i have the tk1600 and confirm the simplicity of design and reliability.  glad for the log loader but wish i had more than 20 hp.  hydraulics in winter need to be thought through    al

[flip]

Ditto Ladylake's comments.  As TK improves new mills those with older units like me upgrade to make life easier.   I put on belted drive wheels, a new turner chain which marrs the log and cant less and a wiper for the blade to help keep pitch down.I have to agree the old flip up dog does stink.  Unless you have someone to off bear you will have to change your dog height at least 2 times when cutting a log.  The power up and down dog should have been a no brainer from the start.  New models have a 30hp kohler up from the 25, powered dog up and down, self loading loader arms (me likey this a lot) great if you do a lot of protable work.  Everything else is about the same.  It is a geat design that is rock solid just a few small quirks that needed to be worked out.  Hopefully they got the setworks thing right by now.  I replaced countless cord reels, the switching box, switch, sensor, battery,  all wire ends and cleand all grounds in attempt to fix it.  I took the mill to Kansas City to have it tweaked and the !#$%@& thing worked every time.  I get home and started a big job and it worked for 2 hours before it gave up.

[uncle john]

OK
It does seem that any issues that current Timberking owners have with their particular mills appear to be more of an  owner generated upgrade or "tweak" than any sort of mill design deficiency. Lots of Harley owners purchase a stock bike and sort of semi re-build it with their particular vision in mind.

For myself - I am looking for a mid sized, functional machine, which needs no adjustment to perform as it is specified to perform.
I think I'll take a little more thorough look through past posts.

[sgtmaconga]

UJ

[KENROD]

 Add me to the B-20 owners list. I also had problems with the setworks a few years ago. Mine turned out to be a problem in the computer. Put a new one on, haven't had a problem since.

[ladylake]

   Far as the setworks go I did every thing Flip did ten times over and the orginal computer plus one more with the same results, they didn't work all the time.  Some days they might goof up only 3 or 4 time, other days every log. I noticed the longer the log the worse it got pointing right at the cord reel. Put on a good reel, end of the problem. I don't think I even replaced a switch in 2 years. One time the nut on the senser came loose, just hanging there and it still worked. And like Flip mentioned you can have the head back without moving it and the setworks will works all day even with the old reel, but then it isn't doing anything.     Steve

[3500]

I've had my B20 about 4 years. I agree...very solid mill. Original owner was a guy who abused it. He left it literally buried past the frame in sawdust. I think he rolled it at some point loading a heavy log. tweaked the carriage. bent the left rail near the back of the machine. All that and it still makes fine lumber. Mostly SPF. I would like to shop it this fall to get it fixed. I can mill 12' without any problems. longer than that and i get a rising cut because of the bent rail. Oddly enough the tweaked carriage causes the blade to feed into the log very slightly crooked. Under heavy load like 20"+ wide cuts it can cause the carriage to wobble slightly but doesn't make wavy cuts.

[fstedy]

I just finished the log dog mod to hydraulic up and down several months ago what a difference. Its a real timesaver. Next I was thinking of eliminating the cable reel and putting it overhead like the Timber Harvester Mills. Also a powered guide arm is in the works but I need the overhead cable to control it or maybe wireless with a remote control servo.. I was having trouble with rising cuts and was aligning the blade wheels when I found a broken adjusting bolt on thr lower right side that controls the wheel foward and back movement.

[ladylake]

 That overhead cable(or a industrial cord reel) sounds good, you could have as many wires as you need and you could use the setworks again. I put a electric up and down log dog on mine and your right it sure is a time saver. Also a remote throttle.  Sure is a nice mill with those additions and with a setworks that always work.   Steve

[3500]

What are some of the specifics to the elec. log dog. Maybe pictures?

[ladylake]

 Go over to surplus center and look at item 5-1577-4, I mounted that with a clamp and hooked it to the dog with a rod.  It works good but was a tight fit and I don't think it's real tough. I'm thinking about changing it over to a power window motor which is more compact . I'm not good with pictires. If your haveing trouble with your log dog flipping up type in B20 log dog in your web search and click in maintaing a Timberking B20, I managed to get some pictures of how I fixed mine on thier, flips up all the time now.   Steve

[eireog68]

I picked up a tk b20 for my first mill because i have very bad back issues and have an implanted spinal stimulater
the problem i have so far is there is very little info on the b20 in the way of upgrades like the hydraulic log dog,the hydraulic toe boards etc i have searched the web and pics just are not out there
my goal is to make the mill full hydraulic so i may be able to use it a little. (no i cant afford a new full hydraulic mill)

i was thinking about replacing the real with an e-chain to contain wire and or hose to control items on the cutting head
or just using a wireless RF circuit to do the same.
if the e-chain is used the dc up/down for the head could be switched to hydraulic if needed

the log dog is a must retrofit as it is a manual up / down and the feed in/out gets stuck a lot in the in position after clamping this would be easy if i could get good pictures of the new hydraulic system they use now or if they offered a retrofit package for older mills (but a retrofit would be pricy i guess)

the toe boards are easy as there is an extra valve not used i just need to find where to buy a hydraulic a/b valve to switch between front and back toe boards.

for an added bonus i have been thinking about a way to stop the chance of hitting the back stops or the dog with the blade if they are to high and have come up with a simple solution but i have to test it first after the other mods.(this is a must for me also because of the meds i am on they have my brain cooked and i forget simple things like checking the hight of the backstops.)

this may seem like a lot but if one retro is done at a time it should be painless
when i start these mods i promise to post detailed pics for all to see. because i think the TKB20 is a well built mill and pics need to be posted for all to see.

[eireog68]

fstedy do you have pics of your hydraulic log dog mod

[fstedy]

I'll see if I can get some its a real tight fit. I used a hyd. valve from TK so I knew it would bolt right into the valve bank.

[redbeard]

I have gotten by for so long now with the raising of the log dog manually i kind have gotten use to my method, I use plastic wedges i made with a notch that fits in the drift pin they are different lengths so i always know how high i am and i throw a rubber band around it to keep it from flying away when its flipping up and down. I know its time consuming but i stripped the handle bolt off the first week i got the mill never claimed it on warrenty and still havent drilled it out. I like the wedges! Hyd up n down would be nice, I did ask awhile back and its 1500.00 for retro kit

[Northern Porter]

A little behind the ball here, but I own a 1600. Purchased it last year, built a large garage with it and have had no problems thus far. I did however find out that you should strap the fuel tank down after it flew back at me ripping the line out of the insert on the engine. Fixed that and got back in business.

Quick question, does anyone have any suggestions on how to charge a customer to just saw logs in half? I am ripping boards and cants for him also, but he asked me to split a pile of pines.

Ryan

[paul case]

by the hour. set up will take some extra time and i am sure you will have to adjust for taper so time starts when log is being loaded. i charge $40/hr and there is a 1 hour min. or you could do it just for fun. that would almost ensure that there would be hardware in his logs.  pc

[Northern Porter]

Thanks PC. Im hoping the logs are clean like he says. They came off of a back lot so Im keeping my fingers crossed.

[poolman]

I have a 2005 b-20 in south Louisiana.I have done a lot of repairs to my mill.The setworks are really no good on my model.I dont need it anyway because I am like a card counter in my head.I find counting in my head makes me smarter and faster in my milling.I know how to do any repairs needed to mine and have made changes to its function.  Brian

[ladylake]

 There's no way you can saw as fast or as accurate without a setworks, no need to bring the head back all the way, just clear the log drop and cut. I have mine set at 1-9/16 sawing 3000 bf of white oak this week, I'd hate to figure that in my old head. All that's needed is a good cord reel which at around $100 to $250 is not to bad when your running a $20000 machine. With 8000 hours on mine now I've had very few repairs with the most expensive one costing $268 for a lead screw. I did repower with a Isuzu diesel a couple yeaers ago that cost $1400 when done. Every mill is going to need minor repairs and adjustments now and then, on the TK everything is nice and simple.   Steve

[poolman]

I dont bring the carriage back i can read as soon as im at the end of the log.I know my next number in my head during the cut.As fast as the return i am sawing again.Its how you train your brain to work.It takes math in your head when you are cutting.I dont slow down at all. Pushing buttons was my slow down on that electronic box.I am much faster now than before.

[ladylake]

 I can't see that far or think that fast so I like the set works. Besides it stop exactly in the right place the first time every time, no bumping it up or down.   Steve

[poolman]

Steve maybe TK improved the setworks since 2005 .When i bought my mill in 2005 i would complain about the box not being reliable.They would tell me sawdust was on the sensor,which I knew was very clean.I got tired of hearing BS from TK after paying 25,000  dollars for my package.But now I am like a card counter in a Casino and very fast .It helps my thought process on other projects when it comes to math.So i think it just makes me sharper in my math skills.I am happy with my TK now and produce a lot in a day.I am able to do my own repairs to the b-20 now.   Brian

[ladylake]

 I know well how frustrating a eratic setworks can be, doesn't make a guy happy at all.  It took me almost 3 years to figure out that the cord reel was the problem, not to say you won't get a bad connection or something like that now and then. They did like to blame it on the sensor, after I got a good cord reel the nut on my sensor came loose and almost fell off and it was dirty, yet the setworks  never goofed up. I don't know why TK doesn't just tell people with troubles to go out and buy a industrial cord reel instead of check this check that and everything but the cord reel.  They will tell you to buy a new cord reel from them but even a brand new one doesn't always make contact on the ground circuit. My mill is a 2002 so the setworks problem has been around for a while.  Steve

[redbeard]

 

I had a set works problem that took me quite awhile to figure out, new cord reel wasn't it i even sent harness,sensor and setworks box back to TK to test all tested fine. What was happening was it would work intermitant then go all over the place couldn't trust it so i went manual for a few months learned alot of tricks ect. Anyway long story short it was this part on the 30 hp kohler gas engine ( :-\capacitor ) can't find the exact name of part. I believe i fried it when i jump started my deep cycle battery when it was failing, Iam sure someone with more electrical verbage could explain it better. So once i replaced the 60.00 part everything was back to normal. Haven't had any problems since other than usual cord reel cleaning (still need to get industrial reel like Ladylakes)  The TK tech said i was the first on this problem and they have always been there on any issue i have had. This part has alot to do with interference and computers don't like interference.

[poolman]

Redbeard if You find a 3 wire reel that the coil lock can be removed easy,let me know where.I am on my 3rd reel.I need one with a tough skin on it because my logs and boards can stike it.I had to remove a resistor out of my relay box 4 years ago.Now my up  on my carriage performs faster.My resistor in the middle of the box was getting hot and slowing my blade going up.4 years and no problem from removing it.I put my drip spout on the left side of my guide roller.I have never had a bad bearing in my sliding blade roller guide since 05.I put a small plastic tube with a wire taped to the outside for bending.If it strikes a log it has a memory to go back to the blade.I had to put my own chain tension bolt on my small log turning chain because big logs would knock it loose and break the master link.My hyd motor on my turner should of had a tension bolt from TK.Every year I make changes.  Brian Mcgowan

[ladylake]

 Redbeard  My mill is a 2002 , I can't remember seeing that part on the 27hp Kohler I had. I used to break turner chains maybe once every year or 1-1/2 years. When they got to be almost $100 shipped from TK due to them putting a little metal block on the links that turn I went to the fleet store and bought 10' of 60H which is way stronger the 60.  I welded some U shaped pieces of metal on every 5th link on the 60H , that's been on for 3 years now and still looks like new. That 10' was enough to make 2 chains with a bit left over. Also it's easy to clean the black and white contacts on the TK cord reel, it's the green ground which goes through the center somehow that causes the problems. When I first figured that out I mounted one of old TK cord reels right beside the one on the mill (duct tape) and ran the groud circuit through the black or white wire, that worked great untill I put a industrial one on.   Steve

[poolman]

I buy a reel every 2 years and i wrap duct tape on the outside of the reel to keep it from vibrating.Tape was keeping the low quality reel more solid.I will look out for a high end reel that alows me to pull the lock key out.If you know where a internet order cord thats good. I would order it. Brian

[Mark Webb]

What will go wrong will go wrong. I was moving some slabs from the back of my B20 first thing this morning and and one fail off the tractor and hit the speed control knob for the carriage and broke it off. I called TK for this valve and Jason said that was the first time he had ever heard of such a thing. Anyhow $86.00 can fix it. That's the way it goes sometimes.
Mark

[redbeard]

Lots of good info on this thread, I'am pondering the idea of eliminating the cord reel all together and going with a remote set up. I have seen Gschwends remote set up on his Brand X swing mill and I'am very impressed. He has given me the list of parts to order and will help me set it up ( another good reason to be friends with in your area sawmillers) I'am not sure if the frequency will mess with the setworks dose anyone have remote throttle control or has anyone done this with TimberKings yet?

[ladylake]

 I just put on a good industrial cord reel which always works. A remote should work also too.  I tried a remote for throttle control but found the buttons to small for working with gloves.   Steve

[eireog68]

I am looking for setworks for a b20 and for pics of a hydraulic log dog setup and pics of a hydraulic toe board setup these are the only things not hydraulic on the old b20 that i have and i need them to be so i can use it due to my back condition.

[eireog68]

poolman do you want to sell your setworks i have none and would love to have it as it would mean less moving around for me and my medical issues.