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Author Topic: Sealing Board and Batten  (Read 3368 times)

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Offline Qweaver

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Sealing Board and Batten
« on: December 31, 2006, 11:12:57 am »
I'm in the process of cutting poplar for B&B siding for my cabin.  It will have about 6 months of air drying time before I put it up.  I recall several posts talking about the potential for warping problems.  Joel dipped his B&B poplar and I haven't seen a post on how that worked out.  Dipping sounds like it would be very expensive and wasteful for faces of the wood that will never be seen.  I have a source of cheap, but good quality, outside paint in random colors that I'm considering using to coat all sides of the boards except for the outside face which I'll coat with an oil based stain/sealer.  Does this sound like a reasonable plan.  I'm also not sure of the best stain/sealer to use on the outside. Price is not the most important factor...I want the finish that will last and look the best.   I will probably dip the battens.  Suggestions wecome.
Happy New Year
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple :D

Offline scsmith42

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2006, 11:41:28 am »
Quinton,

Joel Eisner did some research on the forum on this topic in the past.  Here is the link:

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=19842.msg283616#msg283616

Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Offline Joel Eisner

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2007, 02:31:01 pm »
The siding has been up now for 4-5 months and it is working out great.  I have a few spots where I will need to place a few extra nails but all in all I am happy.  We planned on dipping the boards but ended up using a paint roller and brush to do all surfaces before they went up.  I was fast and worked well.  I would not hesitate to do it again.

Joel

The saga of our timberframe experience continues at boothemountain.blogspot.com.

Offline Qweaver

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2007, 07:12:02 pm »
My friend that builds log homes uses two Sashco products, capture and cascade, to stain and seal his log homes.  He says that they will work fine for B&B as well.  But this is the only product that he has used so he has nothing to compare it to.  I'd really like to find the very best system that will get the longest life. 
There is really no way to know for sure which product is best other than to try it and see...or to get advice from someone with a lot of experience.  ????
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple :D

Offline scsmith42

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2007, 07:21:01 pm »
Quinton,  I did some research in this area a few years ago and found that shingle treatment is some of the most durable preservatives available.  Chevron shingle oil came highly recommended, as did TWP products.

This link has some very good info, and I intend to follow it when I restain my house.

http://www.cedar-guild.com/faq/faq.htm

Regards,  Scott
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
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and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Offline Qweaver

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2007, 10:46:50 pm »
Thanks Scott,
That's a good article.  I'll check out TWP.  I'd also like to decide on a finish and keep it in stock to sell to customers since very little is available in our part of WV.
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple :D

Offline TW

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2007, 11:41:26 am »
Why does it have to be sealed?
If you seal moist wood you will prewent the moist from drying and the wood will rot. If you seal dry wood the paint will always let in some moist through cracks and that moist will be trapped and create rot.

In our climate it is proven that weatherboards last best if they are painted only on the outside with a paint that does not create a moisture proof barrier. Oil paint or oldfashioned red paint are the only that lasts.

Old fashioned homemade red paint is known to be the best for the cost. It was used on most buildings in the old days and it presently gets a comback because it does protect the wood without trapping moisture. The material is cheap and anybody can boil it in an old oilbarrel. I do not know if they sell the raw materials in USA. Try a search for "Falu rödfärg". I have patched small local rot damage in over 100 years old board and batten sidings. I have also seen 20 years old rotten siding with plastic paint.

What is the big climate difference?

Offline Qweaver

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2007, 02:52:50 pm »
Point taken TW, and I don't want to paint with a non-breathing "plastic" paint
I may be using a misleading term when I say sealing.  I'll bet that almost all finishes used on log homes allow water vapor to pass.  Our house in Texas sets right on a saltwater bay and it is unfinished cedar.  Those boards are about 40 years old and they are doing very well.   But we do not want that gray, weathered look on our cabin in W.Va. so we have to protect it from the UV.  All of our walls are covered by porch roofs and that will help but they will still turn grey unless protected.
I just don't want to have to recoat every five years.
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple :D

Offline Stephen1

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2007, 11:11:16 pm »
Qweaver, I am like you. I am looking for a coating for my logs, and have looked at a lot of different products and am still confused. I had to put off coating the logs in the fall as there was to much moisture in the logs and the air as it rained for most of Sept & Oct. What I have figured out is it will have to be recoated in 5-10 years depending on the exposure to the SUN, and it really does not matter what you put on. Your US Forest Service highly reccomends using only oil based products, better longivity. i have read about TW's red paint and it does sound interesting and I did do a search but it is not in english. I have some literature somewhere on it and I am going to try and find it tomorrow.
I am still looking and would also like to hear from people that have used diffent products over the years and which ones they liked.
Stephen
LT40HD, 742b Bobcat, Sthil v170,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Offline ARKANSAWYER

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Re: Sealing Board and Batten
« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2007, 08:03:24 am »

  Board and batton is best if left unfinished and able to dry after being wet.  I know this because in this country it is one of the most common outside covering on buildings of any age.  Here on the farm we have a barn over 80 years old with oak siding and the only rot is where boards have touched the ground due to build up of materials.  Where you see the most checking on boards is where people nailed them down to much to keep them in place.  THEY NEED TO BE ABLE TO MOVE!
  Oil based coats do breath and best if only on the outside.  To keep the fadeing down you will need high UV blockers.   The best product I have found for clear finishes is no longer on the market because some BODY in CA sued the company over a $5 million home because they used the product wrong.
  Min Wax has a Helmans outside Spar poly with good UV blockers and seems to hold up so far.  Been using it about 2 years.  I have found oil based to be better then water but there are some fine water based products for log homes now but have not used them.   UV blocker is what you are looking for.
ARKANSAWYER