Author Topic: Overcomplicated top (Read 2091 times)

flip · « **on:** December 14, 2006, 04:20:36 pm »

My parents are moving into a different house and now mom has a dedicated computer room. My father, wanting to put his special touch on the house, insists on making her a computer/media desk. I have some hard maple in the kiln which will contrast the dark cherry flooring nicely so hard part to me is done, wood type is selected. The guys doing the work on the house have added their 2 and 4 cents and have him in a state of confusion

. The game plan is to use a sheet of 3/4 cabinet grade ply and attach-glue-screw-or nail the maple to the ply. I just moved my shaper to his new shop and said we should just tongue and groove some 3" stuff and nail it to the top then use a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 to the edge for banding and do a round over. Over kill? I'd rather just edge glue plane and put some legs under it but he inists it's not heavy enough. Any ideas?

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** December 14, 2006, 05:56:28 pm »

flip
I'm not following the story very well. I'm lost with who is doing what and don't see how thick the 'edge-glued' material (hard maple?) is. Apparently there are three suggestions as to how to build?
Sorry to be confused.

But it doesn't sound like the "hard part" for you is 'done'.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #2 on:** December 14, 2006, 07:02:34 pm »

2" would be plenty heavy.

What about "breadboarding" the ends, then rounding all the top edges

That would be easy enough to do.

Sprucegum · « **Reply #3 on:** December 14, 2006, 07:45:44 pm »

Is your hard maple only 1/4 inch thick already? If so you are on the right track with glueing it to the ply. If not cut yet why not go 5/4 thick , edge glue it together and you got your top. The strenght you need to carry a heavy load(books or whatever) is supplied by the legs and rails. Or drawer modules.

I know - clear as mud

metalspinner · « **Reply #4 on:** December 14, 2006, 10:41:05 pm »

A 4/4 top is plenty heavy for a computer desk. If you take the wood movement into account when the top is attached there should not be any troubles with seasonal movement. As mentioned by Sprucegum, the aprons will give strength to the top.

If you go with 8/4 or even 6/4 a trestle design can be used without aprons.

JimBuis · « **Reply #5 on:** December 14, 2006, 10:49:05 pm »

I'm not sure I follow all of the details, but if you are talking about glueing solid maple to plywood, I wouldn't do that. The solid wood will expand and contract at different rates than the relatively more stable plywood. Over time, the maple will crack.

IMHO,
Jim

flip · « **Reply #6 on:** December 15, 2006, 09:39:22 am »

That is dad's plan. I would rather not use any type of underlayment and just go with the solid top. The maple I have is all at a heavy 1 1/8 and dry, I guess I can probably get 11/16" finished. Breadboards are fine and I am still considering them. I really think 1 1/2 is too much for a table top no longer than 7 foot long 24" deep. It will have the computer hung underneath, flat panel, fax/printer on top. Not much weight. The trick here is that there are no right angles in the house and one end will go into a 60 degree corner and make a dog leg of about an extra 2'. I think I'll piddle this weekend and maybe get a couple of pics. to show you what I have to work with.

Flip

Larry · « **Reply #7 on:** December 15, 2006, 12:36:02 pm »

You might consider incorporating a keyboard tray or multi-level top for mom's comfort.

WDH · « **Reply #8 on:** December 15, 2006, 01:47:21 pm »

The keyboard tray is a must. Also, if you have dry maple at 1 1/8' thick, you should have no problem planing to 3/4" or maybe even 13/16" if the boards are reasonably straight. Plus, you are not going to see the top from the bottom anyway. I made a computer desk out of cherry - turned out nice. Also made a filing cabinet to match. I will post a pic if you are interested.

flip · « **Reply #9 on:** December 15, 2006, 01:51:59 pm »

I like pics

pigman · « **Reply #10 on:** December 15, 2006, 02:57:53 pm »

This is something I through together a while back. It is all cherry except the 1/4in ply back. It has the pull out keyboard tray and a pull out shelf on the right side. The top is just 3/4in and seems to be plenty strong. Of course, the way I built the desk the top is supported in four places. On top of the desk is my new computer which is giving me fits trying to figure out all the new and different things.

Bob

WDH · « **Reply #11 on:** December 15, 2006, 03:30:05 pm »

Wow Pigman,

That is one gorgeous desk. Mine won't measure up to that !!

I play music, and whenever I hear someone play who is really good, I say that I am going to quit given the comparison of me to them (but I never do!). I have the same feeling looking at your desk. Nice job.

Larry · « **Reply #12 on:** December 15, 2006, 04:01:41 pm »

I like your desk to...its attractive and looks well thought out. Hope my boss doesn’t see the picture or I’ll have another project to complete.

I know what’s wrong with your computer...it’s tuned in to the wrong channel.

What’s that funny little stool thingy? Is that something for Bob the cripple?

pigman · « **Reply #13 on:** December 15, 2006, 04:59:36 pm »

Quote

What’s that funny little stool thingy?

Larry, that is a little slant top stool that I put my feet on to lean back in my chair while I am waiting for the slow dialup to download.

The leaning back causes me to be so far from the monitor that I have to increase the text size to the maximum to be able to read anything. I think I should have bought a larger monitor.

I guess I could slide the monitor closer, but then I wouldn't have any room for my food.

Bob the cripple, but getting better

Norm · « **Reply #14 on:** December 15, 2006, 05:01:40 pm »

Bob something you just throw together involves 2x4's and a framing hammer.

Beautiful desk!

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** December 15, 2006, 05:16:29 pm »

You sure do keep it neat and clean. $:-\$

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #16 on:** December 15, 2006, 06:40:40 pm »

I sure wish I had one of Bob's stool's to elevate my ailing leg (knee) while sit'n at the 'puter. Ever try to stand up straight after sitting in a desk chair for a couple hours and realize the knee just turned stiff on ya?

argg!!

pigman · « **Reply #17 on:** December 15, 2006, 06:45:04 pm »

I did a little housekeeping before I took the picture.

Now I don't know what to do with the tall stack of papers and other junk I removed.

Donk, the stool was easy to make.

Bob

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #18 on:** December 15, 2006, 06:53:29 pm »

One project at a time.

WDH · « **Reply #19 on:** December 15, 2006, 08:56:48 pm »

Flip,

Here is the pic of my desk. Not nearly as refined as Pigmans!

It is a simple student desk design. The middle drawer is a pull-out keyboard. The desk is 30" high. The top is 3/4" thick, 58" long, and 27 1/2 " deep. Files are kept in a separate filing cabinet to maximize freedom of movement under the desk.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #20 on:** December 15, 2006, 09:26:27 pm »

Code: [Select]

[img]http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14370/Re-sized%20Cherry%20Desk.jpg [/img]
WDH, modify your post with this code. I'de do it, but ya gotta learn. Don't use spaces in filenames please, that's why '%20' gets substituted in the postings and then we can't do a picture search for the thread behind the picture.

WDH · « **Reply #21 on:** December 15, 2006, 09:28:22 pm »

Thank you.

pigman · « **Reply #22 on:** December 15, 2006, 10:47:05 pm »

WDH, I like your desk. It has nice clean lines.

I put big drawers in mine to hide all the junk that I seem to accumulate.

They give me a place to put all the stuff so I can take a picture.

Messy Bob

Patty · « **Reply #23 on:** December 16, 2006, 07:29:40 am »

Nice work you guys.

What kind of wood is your desk WDH ?

Norm · « **Reply #24 on:** December 16, 2006, 07:32:13 am »

WDH that is a beautiful desk!

WDH · « **Reply #25 on:** December 16, 2006, 08:36:02 am »

The desk is made of cherry that I harvested from my property. I sawed it on my sawmill, air dried it, and acclimated it for use inside. For the finish, I used Danish oil because I like the way it enhances the beauty of cherry. Then, I topcoated with varnish for protection.

Flip, the top does not have breadboard ends and the top is flat. Breadboards can be a nice touch depending on the style, but they are not always necessary unless you want to hide the end grain in my opinion.

Patty · « **Reply #26 on:** December 16, 2006, 11:26:43 am »

What does it mean to breadboard the ends?

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #27 on:** December 16, 2006, 11:36:14 am »

I think what he means is the cut a thin (1/8 or maybe 1/16 inch wide) along the length of a board to show flat grain instead of end grain of the boards. I've done it before for covering up plywood edges. You can buy those plastic things or a tape with a grain pattern also. What I did was use a lighter or darker strip than the piece I was covering, just for contrast.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #28 on:** December 16, 2006, 05:17:53 pm »

Actually, it means to do like a wide mortise and tenon. You dado the top and bottom edge of the table piece and slot the "Breadboard" piece, which is the same thickness as the top, so it fits over the dadoed ends. It hides the end grain and keeps the top from separating, a little.

Gives a nice neat rounded edge.

I think one of Larrys cutting boards had the breadboard edge

Maybe not ??

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #29 on:** December 16, 2006, 07:23:34 pm »

Works either way, but FD's would be a lot stronger. Although, I never had one of mine separate.

WDH · « **Reply #30 on:** December 16, 2006, 10:37:04 pm »

Patty,

A Breadboard end has grain direction that is at a 90% angle to the grain of the top, a cross-grain situation. The top has to be free to move from seasonal moisture changes, so the breadboard end cannot be glued to top along the entire length or the top cannot move and it will split. Takes some engineering.

Like Fla_deadheader says, a tongue milled into the end of the top could fit into a groove milled into the breadboard so the two could fit together. You could also use a sliding dovetail along the end of the top fitting into the mating dovetail groove in the breadboard end, but that is much more complicated to do on a wide top. However, definitely stonger. That is how I did it on a blanket chest that I recently made.

The breadboard is attached to the end of the top and forms the lip of the chest lid on that side.

From the back, you can see the the how the dovetail on the top slides into the breadboard end.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #31 on:** December 17, 2006, 07:12:03 am »

I've got to get me one of those Lee dovetail jigs some day. I've used those plastic template ones and they are crappola.

WDH · « **Reply #32 on:** December 17, 2006, 08:27:08 am »

Swamp Donkey,

The Leigh D4R is the way to go in my opinion. There are other jigs and cheaper jigs, but the Leigh gives the most flexibility. I like the 24" model because it is large enough to do a 20" high chest. Most all jigs on the market cannot handle a 20" panel which is the height I want to make the chest carcass. At about $450 for the jig, you could pay for it with just a few chests. I have 3 daughters. The walnut chest is for the oldest. Now I am building one out of cherry and one out of cedar for my other 2 daughters.

Patty · « **Reply #33 on:** December 17, 2006, 11:15:11 am »

I have seen those edges, I guess I didn't know what they were called.

That is a beautiful chest, WDH. Very nice joinery.

Mooseherder · « **Reply #34 on:** December 19, 2006, 06:31:02 pm »

I made this desk for my oldest daughter a few months ago. Actually made 2, but this one came out better than the second. Youngest didn't want the side rails on hers. (Now she does) I am not far advanced enough to tackle drawers yet but there is a shelf underneath that holds computer tower and assorted stuff.

It is made from Big Box Store Fir with the exopy finished top over stain.

Mooseherder · « **Reply #35 on:** December 19, 2006, 07:27:04 pm »

Made this plant stand for a friend with the leftover fir pieces from the desks.
It is darker than picture when it is inside. Brought it out in the sun for the picture.

Used wood putty for some effect in between fir strips, stained and covered with the 2 part epoxy finish.

WDH · « **Reply #36 on:** December 19, 2006, 11:48:38 pm »

Mooseherder,

With the quality you show in those pics, drawers should be no problem for you. Come to Georgia and I will give you some walnut and also some poplar for drawers.

News:

Author Topic: Overcomplicated top (Read 2091 times)