Author Topic: Tracked skidders, again (Read 8527 times)

sprucebunny · « **on:** November 09, 2006, 05:51:39 pm »

Coon and I both have tracked skidders we're working on. I'll let him tell you about his and we can be 'backseat engineers' or is that 'seat-of-the-pants-engineers'

?

My project is a fifty year old J5 Bombardier and I need some bushings. Plain steel bushings. Look like pipe. I almost fell out of my seat when the first quote was $55 each for a 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD 1" long bushing. There's plastic ones (not cheap either!) and bronze ones but steel ones are hard to find. Drill bushings are a possibility but might be too hard ? Does anyone know ?

I've finally found some at Connex but there's a $50 minimum (that's fine ) and they ship COD. That's OK too. Thiers is spring steel and supposed to be the part that wears out.

These go to a shock absorber that's between the front bogey axle and the rear tandem bogey assembly.There is an inner and an outer bushing.Unless someone has better advice, I was going to use drill bushings for the big part and the Connex things for the small part.

http://www.connexusa.com/HTML/application.html

Coon · « **Reply #1 on:** November 09, 2006, 06:40:47 pm »

Well as Joan has mentioned I am building a tracked skidder that I have a few questions for you experts here. I will try to explain everything to the best of my ability. I do not have a dig cam as most of you know so you will have to picture the project in your mind. Any and all help is very much appreciated.

The project is to put a 1976 Subaru DL car on tracks with very little to no money available for the project. I do although have alot of resources available that include old farm equiment for steel and parts as well as a variety of tools to work with.

What I plan on doing is using the steering clutches and drive components from a John Deere 200A Self propelled swather that will be driven off of the Subaru's transmission via a common shaft. My first dilema is whether the steel I have will be sufficient for the rails and undercarriage. The steel is 3"x3" boxbeam that has 3/16" walls. It is from an old cultivator and is in very reasonable condition with no visible cracking or cracks that have been welded up. I was wondering if it would be strong enough for rails if I welded one on top of another and put in a few cross braces to hold the binding from happening?

There will be more to come but I have to lay my aching back down. Too much snow shoveling I guess.

Brad.

Burlkraft · « **Reply #2 on:** November 09, 2006, 06:55:44 pm »

Sounds like a fun project.....

Good Luck...

Stephen1 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 09, 2006, 07:15:07 pm »

Sounds like a great winter project. But maybe building a snowblower would be a better project.

woodbowl · « **Reply #4 on:** November 09, 2006, 07:58:23 pm »

Quote from: Coon on November 09, 2006, 06:40:47 pm

Well as Joan has mentioned I am building a tracked skidder that I have a few questions for you experts here.

OK Brad, fire away when your ready. Be sure to include lots and lots of pics!

Coon · « **Reply #5 on:** November 10, 2006, 09:01:35 am »

Woodbowl, pics aren't a possibility right now, no dig cam. I will be taking some the old way though with the 35 mm.

What is your opinion of using the 3x3 x 3/16" boxbeam for rails and undercarriage? Will the Subaru be to heavy for it?

What do you guys and gals think of of using tractor tires for tracks? Probably would have to use two tires for each side and cut some of the sidewalls out as well as make some keepers out of angle iron.

?

Will get to more questions as they arise during the project.

Brad.

Brad.

KGNC · « **Reply #6 on:** November 10, 2006, 10:00:38 am »

Sprucebunny:
Drill bushing are mostly precision ground on the ID and OD and they are expensive. I could not tell a lot from the photo. Do you thing the bushings have to be steel? You can get Bronze bushings at McMaster-Carr for about $3.45 each. How hard are they to get to? You might try the bronze and see how they last, would be a not to expensive experiment.
http://www.mcmaster.com/ and look up part # 2867T21

Ed · « **Reply #7 on:** November 10, 2006, 10:53:02 am »

The bushings you found at Connex are probably your best bet.
Powered metal (the generic oilite type bushings) are not designed to handle an impact load. With the constant cycling of the shock absorber they will break apart. There are tougher "bronze bushings" (cast bronze instead of powered) available, but the price will probably scare you away & I don't think they will hold up as well as the Connex bushings.

Ed

thurlow · « **Reply #8 on:** November 10, 2006, 11:45:57 am »

Coon, there was a detailed article in Farm Show magazine a few years ago about a fellow doing exactly what you're doing; I've got a CD around here somewhere with that on it; I'll try to find it................don't hold your breath.

RSteiner · « **Reply #9 on:** November 10, 2006, 11:58:52 am »

There are many different alloys of bronze available for bushings of that sort. One material I have used before that is very tough is Ampco 18.

There must be a small machine shop in your neck of the woods that could turn up what you need. Material is not cheap these days but you should be able to find some one to sell you what you need and not have to purchase more than you need.

Randy

woodbowl · « **Reply #10 on:** November 10, 2006, 03:04:29 pm »

Quote from: Coon on November 10, 2006, 09:01:35 am

What do you guys and gals think of of using tractor tires for tracks? Probably would have to use two tires for each side and cut some of the sidewalls out as well as make some keepers out of angle iron.?

Coon, I've been looking for info about that for a long time, even posted a topic about it. http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=15394.msg218736#msg218736 There is some good stuff here, I just wish there were some pics.

Thurlow, you found dat CD yet?

thurlow · « **Reply #11 on:** November 10, 2006, 03:51:48 pm »

Nooooooooooooooooooooo; it's on my to-do list, but not right at the top.

You might poke around in here........http://www.farmshow.com/index/searchdb.asp

sprucebunny · « **Reply #12 on:** November 10, 2006, 06:20:24 pm »

Thanks for the bushing advice, fellas.

I'm going to use the Connex. The old ones were steel and some are worn. My next concern is the outside bushing which is worn on a couple of them. And does anyone have an opinion on whether to use grade 5 or grade 8 bolts

Coon : the steel 3x3 you have weighs 7 pounds per foot. You might want to envision what the whole machine will weigh in relation to the engine's power and there will be more friction in the track. You could look for used conveyor belt for tracks >3-5 ply. Then you could make grousers out of angle iron and the inside keepers out of flat steel with a diagonal half 2" slices of the 3x3 like the letter 'P'.
Just thinking with my fingers

Reddog · « **Reply #13 on:** November 10, 2006, 07:08:28 pm »

Grade 8 will wear longer.

Mr Mom · « **Reply #14 on:** November 10, 2006, 07:20:45 pm »

You might call a CATERPILLER dealer and get their hight strength bolts there are stronger than grade 8.

Thamks Alot Mr Mom

Coon · « **Reply #15 on:** November 10, 2006, 08:57:07 pm »

Can you elaborate on those keepers sb. I am not quite sure whether I know what you mean.

I have a friend that used tractor tires for tracks long ago when I was still in high school. He used them on a unit he completely built from the ground up. It was very small and used about a 10 or 12 hp garden tractor engine and transmission to drive a couple of steering clutches from a swather. It was slightly underpowered because of his choice of engines and was what he had around. Actually he used his running garden tractor for parts just so he had an excuse for his wife to let him get a new tractor with all the bells and whistles. He had an even better plan in store though which he knew would work. The tractor they had was pretty worn out and the wife wouldn't run it. He knew that if they had a new one she would be on it working the garden and mowing the lawn before it even needed done.

I guess with thinking like that you could understand why their marriage lasted for so many years. They have been married now for just over 60 years.

Back to the tracks. I will be joining the tractor tires together with homemade hinge-type system. I may not have to cut too much of the sidewalls out if I can manage to get the right size tires which I will get for free from the local tire shop for taking taking them off his hands. I will be running 16 inch 4x4 tires on implement rims. I will also be bolting on pieces of angle iron to the track to be used as guides to keep them inline with the world.

What should one be using for suspension for such a rig as this one I am building? Coil springs?

Brad.

woodbowl · « **Reply #16 on:** November 10, 2006, 08:59:28 pm »

Quote from: thurlow on November 10, 2006, 03:51:48 pm

You might poke around in here........http://www.farmshow.com/index/searchdb.asp

I did and here is what I found. http://www.farmshow.com/index/detail.asp?article_id=60032475&source=FARMSHOW

It seems we can't view it online, rather we have to buy the back issue.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #17 on:** November 11, 2006, 10:40:34 am »

Coon, here is a pic of the grouser set ( inside and outside of the rubber )
You can see the P shaped part that helps guide the tires and the sprocket .

And here is a track hanging from the sprocket and an old sprocket propping it up. The little axle you see is a bogey and attached by a coil spring to the back tandem axle.

Coon · « **Reply #18 on:** November 11, 2006, 09:33:37 pm »

Thanks Joan. Those are almost exactly what I was thinking they were and just had to make sure. The keepers I am going to make are out of angle iron with some fishplating to keep it from bending closed. I don't have my tires yet so I don't know what size I will be using. I was also thinking that I could possibly make those keepers from scratch using a single piece of iron, and bend it similar to those you have.

What is the measurements of your "P's"? What is the measurement from the long flatside to the point of the "P"? What angle are they bent at? I would like to know more about your whole machine if possible and Yes, I have read most of the info you have posted on the forum. (I think)

Going to sit down tonight and figure out some of my gearing I need to do.

Brad.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #19 on:** November 12, 2006, 06:42:49 am »

What do you have for a sprocket, Brad ? The number of teeth will have alot to do with gearing. There are machines that just use tires but all eight wheels are driven. Argos and tracks

The size of the P relates to the width of the track and the width of the tire. Any width tire will work.The larger diameter, the better, to increase ground clearance. I'll measure the angle and post it a little later.
A suspension picture.

The left side ( the side with the bent axle stub

)

This is an axle from the Thiokol. It would have a full leaf spring mounted on each end and a tire at each end of the spring.

theonlybull · « **Reply #20 on:** November 12, 2006, 08:14:24 pm »

it looks to me, that the bolt draws the 2 sides together against the inner bushing, and keeps it from moving, all the wear should occur between the 2 bushings. i may be wrong, but see if the inner bushing is a lil' wider then the larger bushing. if so, i'd use steel for the inner, and brass for the outter. mainly, one bushing should take the wear.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #21 on:** November 12, 2006, 08:49:31 pm »

You are correct that the inner bushing is longer and clamped by the 2 sides.

I've ordered the Connex bushings for the inner one and they say that thiers should be the wear part

Coon · « **Reply #22 on:** November 13, 2006, 12:22:10 am »

Joan, I will count the teeth on the sprocket tomorrow. I was going to do some figuring on the gearing thing last night when I realized that I hadn't gotten some of the needed figures down on paper. I was going to do that today and I got busy with other more important things like going out to the farmers place where I am getting all of my parts from. He is giving me all of the parts that I want for free because he thinks it's really something that I am building things from these otherwise unneeded parts. Heck I have gotten hydraulics parts for the processor and for the skidder unit that would total up to probably $1000 if I were to buy brand new. He wants to slowly get rid of all of the stuff he has because he is now retired. I need to get all the parts before the snow gets too deep and it gets too cold out. The weather was mild so......

The sprockets and hubs that I am using for the front and back are from the John Deere 200A swather that I wrecked for the steel and the steering clutches. ( He had two identical swathers that between the two I have got all of the drive components other than a couple of sprockets, chains, bearings, and possibly shafts. But I am pretty sure I can find the needed shafts on one of the pieces of equipment Henry has there for parts. He has 4 combines, 2 swathers, old grain augers, old tractors etc, etc, etc..... Gotta love that goldmine of parts. It's just like " Mr. Hooties " only all he's got is farm equipment. He's got a beautiful winch there that he had on a winch truck but it is way too big for my unit. ) The hubs that I am using have a drive sprocket on kinda like a rim. The sprocket is on the back edge and the tire rim fits on the front of it. It uses implement rims with 16 inch rubber. I am removing the implement tires from the rims and replacing them with 16 inch rubber from a 4x4 half ton. The tracks will go over these tires. I have not figured out or found tires and hubs etc for the idlers yet, but I am quite sure they won't be too hard to find out at Henry's Hacienda.

Tomorrow I'll be out at the Hacienda most of the day gathering parts. Not all of them will be for the skidder. I am in very bad need for a chimney in my garage and can't afford to buy one so, when I was out there today I walked around the yard looking for something to use. I found an old 6" grain auger that the outside flighting (tube) is still in good shape but the iauger is shot. So tomorrow that will come apart. I will take the tube off and cut three sections out. One will be from the woodstove up to where I will put the damper section, then the damper section (about 12") which will have a homemade damper inside, then the last section going up and out the roof. East way to save atleast 100 bucks or more. It'll work and outlast what the current chimney did about 3 or 4 to one.

Brad.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #23 on:** November 13, 2006, 09:10:56 pm »

Here's a picture to help you think, Brad

Coon · « **Reply #24 on:** November 13, 2006, 09:54:57 pm »

That pic will definately help me think. I was thinking about making a similar walking beam type idler system but still questioning a few things. I don't yet know if I will be using just one or two idlers on each side. If I do use the two I will use a walking beam system. I just don't know how much smaller of a tire I should be using for my idlers?

The wheel base of the Subaru is 96.7", overall length of car is 164", width 59.3", and weight is 2040 lbs. The car has 13 inch rubber.

I have a pic of a car the same year etc as my Subaru saved on the comp. (from the net) but don't know how to post it. I am not all that comp. literate.

Brad..

woodbowl · « **Reply #25 on:** November 13, 2006, 11:45:52 pm »

Yall' have better toys than we've got down here. Since we don't have snow, we can't scrounge the snowmobile junkyards. I'm missing out on some good ideas.

Tom · « **Reply #26 on:** November 13, 2006, 11:52:44 pm »

They might have different toys, Woodbowl, but can't you see an airplane engine and propeller mounted on the back of some snow skis and the driver with a rudder stick in his hand contemplating a 5 mile long 3,000 foot drop down the side of mountain?

Hey!! Watch this!!

sprucebunny · « **Reply #27 on:** November 13, 2006, 11:55:17 pm »

Ya, Woodbowl, it's like we have another medium to play in

There's dry land toys and water toys and some of us get to play with snow toys

Think of all the fun and adventure you suthners are missing out on

You don't have sledding or skating or ( my favorite ) skiing.

You also don't have shoveling or big heating bills

woodbowl · « **Reply #28 on:** November 14, 2006, 12:54:21 am »

But, but, but ..... I want all the toys I can get! I did get to go skiing a few times and go boggin' sleding, and build a snowman or two, but I never got to ride on a snowmobile. My kids have missed out on the winter wonderland of snow. I guess I just like snow.

Seems like the grass is a little greener on the other side of the fence and we all want something we can't have. $:-\$

Enchantment comes from a far. How come?

Coon · « **Reply #29 on:** November 14, 2006, 08:48:16 am »

Woodbowl, I guess you had better get your bags packed and move further north.

I can just see it right now. I could see woodbowl rolling around in the snow making snow angels like a little kid. His wife would have to call him in for dinner and everything.... or he'd get it coming out the door at him if he was too late.

Brad.

thurlow · « **Reply #30 on:** November 14, 2006, 09:22:53 am »

Quote from: Tom on November 13, 2006, 11:52:44 pm

Hey!! Watch this!!

Actually, Tom, I think the correct term is, "Hey, y'all, hold my beer and watch this".

KGNC · « **Reply #31 on:** November 14, 2006, 11:24:11 am »

Quote from: woodbowl on November 14, 2006, 12:54:21 am

, but I never got to ride on a snowmobile.

You don't have to have the snow, I can say from experience that snow mobiles will go just fine on wet grass. A little hard on the pasture, and steerings not great but you can do it in a tee shirt during a summer rain.

leweee · « **Reply #32 on:** November 14, 2006, 01:01:42 pm »

On that note ....Check this out.

LINK

Go to the bottom of that page & click on

World record holder Henry Bieda.

Talk about Crazy Canucks!

What do you think Tom!!!

Tom · « **Reply #33 on:** November 14, 2006, 08:32:37 pm »

I'm thinking that the canuck snowbirds flowing into Florida and the possibility of the mixing of the gene pool down here could result in some pretty scary and wild ideas. Just what do you get when you mix a crazy canuck with a fearless swamper in South Florida and present them with all kinds of tractor parts, old swamp buggies and a $100 double dog dare?

leweee · « **Reply #34 on:** November 14, 2006, 10:50:42 pm »

Someone losses a $100 Bucks.

With a lot of mud added.

Tom the suspense is killing me.

twobears · « **Reply #35 on:** November 15, 2006, 07:10:39 pm »

WOODBOWL:try logging all winter in four to five feet of snow at minus 20 to minus 40 degrees and you,ll learn to HATE!! snow and cold.

delbert

Ed_K · « **Reply #36 on:** November 15, 2006, 08:17:51 pm »

How about 4 skinny tractor tires a 454 an 4 ft of mud and water with a 30ft high rooster tail of dirty water

.

Tom · « **Reply #37 on:** November 15, 2006, 08:28:39 pm »

You mean, Like this?

Coon · « **Reply #38 on:** November 16, 2006, 09:24:24 am »

Hey everyone, I am still lookiing for some info on my Subaru car that I desperately need. What I am looking for is the gearing of the automatic transmissions. Can't seem to find the info anywhere. I really need this info so I can figure out and find the right size of sprockets to run. The sprockets will be running chains on each side to a commonshaft that in turn runs the steering clutch system. The info is very critical to the whole unit.

Another question arises also: What RPM's did the old 4 cylinder Wisconsin engines run at? This is what engine was on the swather that I wrecked. The motor was seized for years so it when into the scrap pile. This info will also help me to figure out a few things.

All help much appreciated,
Brad.

john_boylan · « **Reply #39 on:** November 16, 2006, 10:59:07 am »

Re the Subaru's gear ratios, the most active group on the internet by far appears to be thesubaruclub on Yahoo. I'd suggest you try a search for that forum and join it since you'll probably need more info as you get further along with your project. Good luck.

John

john_boylan · « **Reply #40 on:** November 16, 2006, 12:06:14 pm »

Re the Wisconsin, do you have a model number for the engine? The current 4-cylinder air-cooled engines seem to develop full rated hp at 2400 rpm (VG4D, 37 hp), 2800 rpm (VH4D, 30 hp) or 3000 rpm (W4-1770, 35 hp). I noticed they are available with optional clutch reduction assemblies (2.3 and 4 to 1) as well.

How old is that swather anyway? There was one for sale near Saskatoon in early September, tel. 1(306)493-2729, but didn't say anything about having a manual. Maybe a call to the seller would be helpful. Good luck.

John

Corley5 · « **Reply #41 on:** November 16, 2006, 01:26:03 pm »

I'm looking forward to pics of both machines working

Sounds like a quite a project Coon

Coon · « **Reply #42 on:** November 16, 2006, 09:36:03 pm »

Well, pics will have to wait cuz I don't have a dig cam. Just have the old 35mm and will develop pics once I get to the city where I can get 3 films with 2 sets of prints developed for the price of one in town here. Hopefully I can manage to get a dig cam in time for some pics during the building process.

john, I will have to wait until I go to Henry's Hacienda and have a look at the engine to get the serial and model #'s. I believe the swather is from the 60's or early 70's but am not quite sure. I have the model and serial # from it in the garage and I will see what I can find out from it.
As for the Subaru I will have to check out the club you mentioned. Hopefully I can figure out some other discrepancies between all of the info I have read on the net. Some say the car is a '74 and some say it is a '76. The discrepancies I have are that in any pics I have seen the '76 models have the 4 headlight system. Mine has two just like the pre '74's. In identifying the engine I found a sticker on the hood that says the car has a 97 cid engine which converts to 1589.83 cc's or in other words a 1.6L. The only engine options in either of the years is 1.4 L and 1.6L. I found a source that has the 1.6 gasket but not the 1.4 in stock. He doesn't even list the 1.4 headgaskets.

Brad.

isawlogs · « **Reply #43 on:** November 17, 2006, 10:35:10 am »

Coon , When you get the film developed , get the pics of your project put on a CD and then it can be put on the forum from that .

Coon · « **Reply #44 on:** November 17, 2006, 07:21:38 pm »

Marcel, What I have planned with the pis is to get it put on a cd as well as atleast 1 copy to put it in my photo ablum of accomplishments.

Brad.

Stephen1 · « **Reply #45 on:** November 18, 2006, 12:44:24 pm »

Coon,
If you use the VIN number on the dash under the front windshield it will yeild a lot of info about the vehicle. If that does not work try the plate on the door post it aslo will list specific things about that vehicle.

Coon · « **Reply #46 on:** November 19, 2006, 09:32:33 am »

Stephen, There is a discrepancy with the serial number. From what I have been told by a couple of different Subaru dealers, the serial numbers were increased in length part ways through the year it was made. This car was made during the first half of the year before the update was made. None of the manuals either on paper or on the dealers computers have the shorter serial number versions listed. But that was 2 different dealers that couldn't even figure out how many cc's the engine was when I gave them the cid.

There just doesn't seem to be the info on the net about these older Subaru's. There must not be many on the road anymore.

Brad.

grassfed · « **Reply #47 on:** January 12, 2007, 09:40:27 am »

This is my tracked skidder Otto.

He is a 1969 Bombardier sw48 (48incheswide).

Otto has a 9000lbs Hydraulic winch (slow)

I use Otto to open, brush, and freeze in my main skidd roads on the wetter areas of my woodlot. I then use Otto with a portable winch to collect and bunch wood from minor skid trails and leave the wood along the main skid roads.
When the road gets good and frozen I collect the bunches with my 440B skidder.

Mike

sprucebunny · « **Reply #48 on:** January 12, 2007, 10:09:24 am »

Hi, Mike ! Welcome to the Forestry Forum

Do you find the SW48 tippy side to side ? Do you move very big wood with it ?

I sure wish winter would get here !!

My J5 is still in pieces

Pinion bearings aren't going to be fun.

grassfed · « **Reply #49 on:** January 12, 2007, 11:03:31 am »

It is tippy side to side and front to back.

It is kind of like driving a weeble. The guy that had it before me flipped it once but he was using it on a steep hillside sugar bush. I mainly use otto on my low wet land. This land tends to be flat (duh). My hilly land is not too steep but it has good firm soils and plenty of good roads from sugaring. I mainly use my JD skidder or my Same tractor and a Farmi 501 winch on this land.

I took otto down to my wet land yesterday and worked on some of the moderately wet areas. They were partially frozen and otto's cleats just broke the surface but did not compress the ground. This is good because we had a big cone year and this should help with the germination.

I will leave otto in the woods until I am done or until it starts to thaw. I just make sure to park on some pulp logs so that the tracks will not freeze to the ground.
Depending on the ground you can pull between ½ to ¾ cords per hitch. The front end starts coming up when you pull too much. The funny thing is that it steers much better when pulling because there is less non skidding track in contact with the ground.

Mike

Coon · « **Reply #50 on:** January 12, 2007, 12:36:12 pm »

Cool lil rig there grassfed, A little unit like that would be very valuable on my land. Lots o' swamp n' 'skeg, but rough going. Even on higher land that would be good for very tight selective logging too... How many lbs will that thing pull. What is the ground psi. on Otto??

Check out my gallery for pics on Critter. Got a dig cam now thanks to sprucebunny and all the other forum members.

Not much happening on Critter for a couple of days now as it's just too *DanG cold out to try and heat my uninsulated garage. I have very little for firewood here other than spruce slabs. The stove just loves em and eats em like candy and don't give much heat in return. Supposed to warm up the first part of the week.

grassfed · « **Reply #51 on:** January 12, 2007, 07:32:32 pm »

Coon you are one ambitious son of a gun.

Ground psi. =+-2.5-3psi
Machine weight =+-4500
As it sits it will pull about 2-2.5 tones on flat ground but the front end gets real light.
With a lower mounted drawbar (under the axle center line) hooked to a sled, a lower first gear and more front weight it would probably pull much more.

If I had your ambition I would put a three point hitch on the front and mount my 501 Farmi with a hydraulic motor replacing the pto-shaft, add to that a radio control for the winch and it would get to be a fairly productive/low impact skidder. You could just pull in straight winch in your logs and back straight out to the main skid road.

Here are a couple of photos I took this afternoon.

They show Otto on the skid trail that I am working on. While this system is no where near as productive as just using a skidder I can start working now before we get a hard freeze. Last year we only froze hard for about two weeks at the end of Feb. I just barely got my roads ready and we had a rain and a thaw. If this year turns out the same as last year I figure I can pull 10-15mbf a day for the 2 weeks.

Ed_K · « **Reply #52 on:** January 12, 2007, 09:26:37 pm »

Welcome grassfed, Kool machine do you have any problems with logs butting up against the tracks? Can you hook a forestry trailer to it?

Coon · « **Reply #53 on:** January 12, 2007, 10:12:48 pm »

I love that lil machine. Gonna build meself one o'dem tings when Critter is done.

That machine seems a lil heavy for its size. The Subaru car I am using was only 2040 lbs minus what I chopped of and gutted out it should be about 1500-1600 lbs then I have been adding on more weight framing the back wall in and such. I figure I should only be at the 3500 lbs when it is finished complete w/ blade, winch and, hitch.

Gonna try to get my fix on Critter tomorrow.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #54 on:** January 13, 2007, 07:45:40 am »

How long are you planning to make the tracks? Short tracks mean you can make tight turns an fit between trees better, but they are rougher to ride on and tend to make the front of the machine rear up on a hard pull. Long tracks ride smoother and spread the weight out better, but are harder to turn and may scuff the ground up more.

Coon · « **Reply #55 on:** January 13, 2007, 11:32:29 am »

The plans I have for the tracks tell me that I will have 96" from spindle to spindle. I am using tractor tires for the tracks and don't know the width yet. I am figuring that the tracks will be in the neighborhood of 18-24" wide. Remember the machine will be driven from the front end so I should plenty of pulling power. The logs will keep the back end down when skidding. Total width of Critter will be around 8 feet or so. My main objective for this machine is for working in deep snow conditions.

Coon · « **Reply #56 on:** January 15, 2007, 08:38:25 pm »

Thought it was time for an update on how far along I am with Critter.

These two pics show what I got done today. I cut and placed Critter on 4- 24" blocks. Tomorrow I will be able to start measuring and cutting pieces for my frame. Gonna be quite interesting too as it will be a stepped ladder frame with my steering clutches built into it. If you're wondering what I mean by a stepped ladder frame you'll just have to wait and see.

Coon · « **Reply #57 on:** January 18, 2007, 07:46:08 pm »

Well I thought it was time for another update.

It turns out that Critter will be totally different than in the previous post. The following day after I posted the pics I crawled underneath it to get some measurements and such. I discovered a tragedy to most of the work I had done. During my venture underneath I found that the cars existing frame was rotted out where you couldn't see it unless you were underneath. The car did not have a complete frame to start with so it was going to be an interesting venture building a frame for it to sit on. I decided to salvage the motor, tranny, wiring harness and anything else useable that I may need from it for another unit.

I guess i will be building a unit similar to grassfed's but maybe a lil bigger. I am thinking that I will end up with a unit that will be around 6 feet wide and 10 feet long in the end. I want to build this unit to be able to seat two people and will have most of the same features that it would have had with the car.

I have managed to get the wiring harness, coil, electric fuel pump, radiator and fan, removed from under the hood. I have the tranny mounts and shifter also removed and am currently working on removing the cv-axles so I can pull the trans. with the engine. I am having troubles getting the axles out of the tranny and bottom of the strut housings. I have removed the ball joint and tie rod end, brake caliper and hub off of the axle and am stuck. Any cv axles I have ever removed just simply pull out of both the strut housing and the tranny by pulling on them once you have the fore mentioned stuff done. NOT THIS ONE. If I cant get it figured out tomorrow I will go another route. I will unbolt the crossmember, a-frames and, struts and slowly lower it to the floor and hold the front end of the car up with the neighbors tactor and FEL and a chain and pull it out of the garage once ready. Once I have that accomplished I will have more working room and will be able to figure it out.

Sorry no pics today as my cam batteries are dead.

amberwood · « **Reply #58 on:** January 18, 2007, 08:44:50 pm »

Coon. from memory the early subarus has a cross pin fitted thru the inner CV/trans connection..it should just drift out. It was this way on my 84' model.

DTR

thecfarm · « **Reply #59 on:** January 18, 2007, 09:07:49 pm »

I would suggest 6 feet wide as you are leaning towards now.My tractor is 6 feet wide and makes it a lot easier to get through the woods than something 8 feet wide.Keep the post coming.Looks like quite the project.

Coon · « **Reply #60 on:** January 19, 2007, 12:44:36 pm »

amberwood thanks for the help. I will look for that crosspin later today and see what I find. I hope you're right as it would save me a pile of work. Hope the older ones than what you had were the same. If not I will have to remove it with the cross member and then figure it out from there.

thecfarm, I think the 6 ft wide seems about the best for me. I don't know if the 10 ft long will be long enough though. I was thinking 10 feet because I can build the tracks 8 feet long from end to end and still have enough overhang in the back for my bullboard and also enough frame out the front for the blade to be attached. Will see how it goes as I have the unit figured in my head and am tryin to cut a little timeoff by not having to draw it up on paper and then have to change it over and over with every mod I do from the original plans.

Coon · « **Reply #61 on:** January 19, 2007, 10:54:23 pm »

amberwood, thank you very much. You were correct about there being a crosspin. I managed to get the cv axles and the struts out but that was as far as I got today. I may have a chance to work on Crit more tomorrow but may not as I am supposed to be getting company first thing in the morning.

Coon · « **Reply #62 on:** January 20, 2007, 08:40:08 pm »

Time for another update with some pics this time.

This first one is of the engine ready to be pulled. Just three motor mount bolts and lift it out.

This one shows the cab mostly stripped of everything. Even less in there now.

These next two just show all of the parts laying around waiting to be used on Critter.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #63 on:** January 24, 2007, 06:24:48 pm »

You're doing some serious 'taking apart' Coon

I'm real good at taking apart.. haven't done as well putting together on my project.
You are just about to turn the corner and be building your machine instead of taking apart

My J5 hasn't made it out of the garage untill today

I was gambling that I could just put new tires and bearings on this machine and hit the trail but it hasn't worked out that way. I knew the machine was modified and a little beat up but I hadn't counted on there being different axle lengths or corrosion inside the differential housing. Silly me

The body of the machine is the differential housing. It was pretty beat up but the oil wasn't pouring out and the gears sounded fine. My attempts at welding it had mixed success and ... well.... it was a waste of effort because one area of the metal was so thin from rust inside

Oh well. You win some , you lose some

So I got around the longer rear axle problem and got the wheels kind of aligned with the sprocket/track on one side.
On the other side, the rear bogey axle is bent forward and the drive axle was an inch too long

Hey, the rear bogey axle is an inch longer on each side, why not have a drive axle longer

That makes 3 out of six axles that are an inch too long. Not all on the same side

Anyway...poor Ted (Theodore Tugboat

) is off to the doctors.

Coon · « **Reply #64 on:** January 24, 2007, 11:40:22 pm »

Glad to see you're gaining progress there sprucebunny. I have gained some more too.

Next little project is to get my frame ready....

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #65 on:** April 05, 2008, 09:08:21 pm »

Quote from: sprucebunny on November 13, 2006, 09:10:56 pm

Here's a picture to help you think, Brad

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

That pic is giving me flashbacks, hate track work!

Sprucebunny, Coon, how are you making out with your projects?

Dave

Coon · « **Reply #66 on:** April 06, 2008, 12:24:39 am »

Well Dave to tell you the thruth they are coming along sloooooooooowly. I have totally restarted my build. That unit was ending up to be too large for what I wanted. I drew up new plans this winter and I am going hydrostatic instead. This will help my weight issues. I want to be as low of ground pressure as I can get. Just started work for the season this past week s my time is limited, however my days off will be build days. I don't have any current pics to show you but I will get some when I get to working on it. These 10 days away from home at a time are not my cup of tea but I need to save up for a downpayment on a beautiful piece of land with a 2 year old home. This land is a 1/2 mile from the Porcupine Provincial Forest and separated by wildlife development lands. Gotta buy land soon as prices are sky rocketing.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #67 on:** April 06, 2008, 10:10:59 pm »

Dave, I got the J5 all fixed up but haven't had a chance to go logging with it because of too much snow !!!

There is a picture of it plowing in one of this winter's "snow" threads. It is a great plow !!!
I'm hoping to go out and drag in some blow downs this week. This is usually the time of year I can get the most done because there isn't much traffic on the state snowmachine trail ( my skid road ) and the trail is frozen in the morning.

Once the welder put new axles in and we got the wheels and drive sprockets in line with each other, the track work was WAY simpler

leweee · « **Reply #68 on:** April 06, 2008, 11:46:35 pm »

Looking good Joan!

Love the new paint scheme.

Looks like a lot of hard work has payed off....you must be proud.

sprucebunny · « **Reply #69 on:** April 07, 2008, 06:47:47 am »

Thanks, Leweee !

It was alot of hard work .

I'm happy that an old machine will move into the future instead of the scrap pile.

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