Author Topic: Any tips on setting up a Logosol PH260 4 sided moulder? (Read 3049 times)

LOGDOG · « **Reply #20 on:** October 12, 2006, 09:33:23 pm »

Thanks for the comments guys. I know it's easy to get off topic in a thread. Remember, this particular thread is about setting up a "Logosol" PH260. Considering that is what I own, I was hoping to solicit information about successful set ups of "this" machine from other owners.

It's all good though.

LOGDOG

Brad_S. · « **Reply #21 on:** October 12, 2006, 10:32:51 pm »

Sorry Logdog.

I've not used my Logosol much, but I can tell you it was easy to wire up. The user manual that came with the unit gave clear instructions for wiring the unit. I had 3 phase power at the box, so it was simply a matter of adding a 3 phase breaker and running wire through a conduit and attaching an outlet. I'm certainly no electrician, if I can do it, anyone can. I use a twist lock plug because the Logosol shares the outlet with an edger, but I will hard wire it when I move it to it's permanent spot.
I bought some of the Logosol dust piping but haven't used it yet. (I'm set up in a temporary spot at the moment, I'm saving it for my permanent installation.) I bought 25" of 4" dust collection hose at Woodcraft and it's working very well. Greg, IMO I don't think the 4" drainage pipe would work, it's not flexible enough. Woodcraft has sales on a regular basis and I picked the ducting up for a reasonable price.
Only other advice I can offer is to think of what the longest product you might run would be and leave enough room on both ends of the infeed/outfeed to accommodate that length. I thought 12' stock would be my max but it didn't take long to realize I made a mistake and wish I had more room.

GregS · « **Reply #22 on:** October 12, 2006, 10:58:14 pm »

Logdog, Thanks for the gentle guidance back on course.
Brad, the more I read about dust collection the more I understand the importance of smooth sided transport tubes. Thanks for the tips guys! In my vast experience of only running 1 board before taking the thing apart for sharpening I have much to learn.

Logdog I'm sorry for the temporary highjack.

Greg S.

Norwiscutter · « **Reply #23 on:** October 13, 2006, 10:26:31 am »

with good dry uniform blanks I have been able to run pine 1x6 T&G through at almost wide open on the machine. Like Arky said, if you jam it up, which is fairly easy to do, you will loose that board. I have been thinking of going to carbide side cutters for my common profiles. Another good piece of advice I got here on the forum was to run my paterns upside down in the machine to get better results. Wireing was fairly straightforward if you are familure with such. Also make sure you set it up with enough space on either side of it because you will run tight on spce after a while. Figure out what you are going to do the shavings because you will have a lot of them.

LOGDOG · « **Reply #24 on:** October 13, 2006, 04:20:14 pm »

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Hope my comment didn't come off wrong. I added a little too much spice to my homemade soup last night and I think it brought out some of my inner "turrets syndrome".

I was curious ...have any of you had any corrosion issues with your Logosol's? perhaps on the non-painted surfaces?

Many thanks,

LOGDOG

fireman05 · « **Reply #25 on:** October 23, 2006, 08:41:47 pm »

I preplane with a Grizzly 15" single sided planer for my thick/thin boards but use the Logosol for most pre-planing. I use only the top/bottom cutters and surface to 7/8" when I'm finishing to 3/4" material.

mur · « **Reply #26 on:** October 24, 2006, 01:14:46 am »

Hi fireman05:
I pre-planed two thousand bf of 1x4 pine once - S2S - and then had a nightmare putting it through to T&G it on the final pass. The Logosol feed rollers kept slipping and I ended up burning marks all over the wood. Total disaster. I never S2S'd again. I now run the "future" bottom of the board through a Woodmaster 718 but I leave what will be the top (finish face) of the board "rough" - usually a band saw or a sash gang saw cut. The feed rollers seem to "grab" better on the rough wood. Maybe the stock (1x4) was too narrow to grab properly but I don't ever want to go there again. Total frustration. How does the S2S work for you? I'd like to hear if you have any suggestions. Thanks.
Mur

LOGDOG · « **Reply #27 on:** October 24, 2006, 05:45:57 pm »

What kind of a relief groove do you guys like for the backside of flooring? I've got a request to run 6" pine flooring on a steady basis. Do you like the half round type of groove or the more square/ sharp edge groove? Also, what's the rule of thumb for how deep you put your groove relative to the thickness of the flooring?

Should have the machine wired up by the weekend with luck. The moisture down here corroded my machine BAD even though it was covered and stored in it's crate. So I've literally taken half the machine apart and polished, buffed and rust proofed anything that had corroded. I don't want to go down that road again.

Thanks for the tips guys!

LOGDOG

mur · « **Reply #28 on:** October 24, 2006, 06:17:40 pm »

Hi Logdog:
I use the square relief. I finish my flooring at 1" - 25 millimetre. My back relief is 3/16" deep on that thickness. In my case, this seems to be what my customers choose when I show them the possibilities.
My Logosol sat in a crate for 2 years also in an open air shed - long story - but the corrosion wasn't too bad. There was some on the shafts that the #3 head slides in and out on. I am in a fairly dry climate so that helped.

LOGDOG · « **Reply #29 on:** October 24, 2006, 07:43:04 pm »

Hi Mur,

Sounds like we're birds of a feather. Maybe one day we'll get to swap long stories over a barley pop. You won't believe the pics of the corrosion when I post them. What urked me is the machine is advertised as "Rust Proof for Outdoor Use" (and I quote). That's hardly the case though. Amazing what naval jelly is capable of though. Coupled with patience it can really shine those parts up nice. I'll post them here in a day or two.

LOGDOG

jack · « **Reply #30 on:** October 26, 2006, 12:32:17 am »

Oh These stories sound soo familiar.
My logosol has been in storage for........3yrs.....(thanks to the bloody redlegged frog) its been holding up my building project. I sprayed alsorts of oil base rust deterants on it.but it still has corrosion, and it is stored in a Shipping container.
AS for the hose for the Chip extractor blower, MY unit was a demo at the Lane county fair, and the Boys at BAILEYS, had run S4S 2x4's thru it some of the hose is the cheap black hose, looks smoother on the insides than the FLEX DRAIN STUFF. but i dont think it was as pricy as the clear steel bound stuff. THE flex drain stuff i would think would hold spears of wood and clog up the works....
PH 260 really puts out the chips...can bury you in a hurry.

Im supposed to start building the house and Vegitable storage shed( read county terms for a bARN, ) this fall.

soon i hope,

Take care
JAck

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