Author Topic: Help! Rust on table of table saw (Read 4508 times)

OneWithWood · « **on:** September 17, 2006, 06:43:46 pm »

Made a mistake and left a green white oak board sit on the table of my tablesaw for a week. Now I have a large area of pitted rust stains

I plan on attacking the stains with fine steel wool and emery cloth. Anyone got any better solutions?

I could just kick myself

JimBuis · « **Reply #1 on:** September 17, 2006, 06:52:47 pm »

I like to use an angle grinder with a new buffing wheel on it and some buffing compound. What you have described would work fine, but would take awhile. After buffing mine out, I go over it with two good coats of paste wax. It works for me and the saw is a pleasure to use after a nice coat of wax.

IMHO,
Jim

beenthere · « **Reply #2 on:** September 17, 2006, 07:20:57 pm »

OWW
Might be more stain than rust. I'd try a dropper of muriatic acid on a spot to see if that would work, and/or a dropper of oxalic acid. Oxalic acid is used to remove stains from wood from metal reaction with the tanning in oak and it might work on the metal itself. The stain probably works into the porous cast steel, and may just stay there. Not sure of the chemistry of that so would try small areas first. Seems if it can be removed, some oil soaked into the metal would be a next step before the wax.
I'd be careful with anything to keep working the table top flat, to avoid getting local depressions (that would take a lot but still might be possible if concentrating on small areas).

Embarrassing, and all on a new saw, but a pic would help show others what can happen, if you can bring yourself to do that.
Coulda been worse, maybe

Larry · « **Reply #3 on:** September 17, 2006, 07:36:52 pm »

The pits are there for the duration. If it was my saw I would use a little emery paper with lube, such as mineral spirits or maybe WD40. Of course a little elbow grease...and don’t even think of a power tool. Just knock off the heavy rust and get some kind of wax on it. Lot of products to get your money...most woodworkers say Johnsons Paste Wax...no silicone. Pretty good stuff...I’m really lazy and use Gulf Wax paraffin...just smear it on and don't worry bout wiping it off.

Now iffen your using the saw the top will shine up quite quick...especially with that new power feeder.

If you get to distraught I have a 40 year old Unisaw with a pristine top, that I might trade for your saw...of course ya might have to come up with a little boot.

jkj · « **Reply #4 on:** September 17, 2006, 09:20:02 pm »

I'll bet eveyone has done that at least once, or will someday. Sawdust and turning shavings from green white oak are just as bad. I put a big mark on my bandsaw table once. I remove most of the rust with a fine sanding block and WD-40.

If I remember to replenish it, a coating of Renaissance Wax on a casting or steel top will not only help protect, but reduce friction on the surface.

JKJ

Riles · « **Reply #5 on:** September 17, 2006, 09:36:01 pm »

I did it with red oak. $:-\$

trim4u2nv · « **Reply #6 on:** September 17, 2006, 10:58:01 pm »

Get a grill cleaning block (pumice i think) and buff it out. Available at any restaurant supply or greasy spoon.

metalspinner · « **Reply #7 on:** September 17, 2006, 11:24:57 pm »

Pressure treated did me in.

pigman · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2006, 07:29:20 pm »

I let some water get on my saw.

It was easy to remove the rust, but the stain is still there. I am glad it was only a Grizzly and not not a Powermatic.

Bob

amberwood · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2006, 08:00:20 pm »

couple of drips of yellow glue onto the jointer bed off a long glue up.....glue comes off but has left a dark stain in the steel.

I use a small palm sander "mouse" fitted with a velcro pad..and wax car polish. The pad is like a plastic pot scubber. Wipe the wax on with a rag, and polish off with mouse.

It leaves a great looking corrosion resistant finish that cleans easily and makes the timber slide very easily.

DTR

OneWithWood · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2006, 08:50:19 pm »

OK, Beenthere, just to prove I am not proud - and to help others learn from my mistake- here are some illustrative pics:

A reenactment of the crime scene. This board was left in place for about ten days while I waited for the powerfeed to arrive.

Here is the result

I decided against the oxalic acid because it called for a thorough rinsing of the area with cool water. Sure didn't want to add to the problem

. I ended up using a 00 super fine steel wool pad to knock the rust off. Followed up with mineral spirits and a good coat of Johnson Fine Furniture paste wax. As a rule I clean the table every week and add some more paste wax. I guess it wasn't good enough

So now my saw has been marked and I can get on with the business at hand. Sort of like nicking a dog on the mill

Don P · « **Reply #11 on:** September 18, 2006, 09:03:58 pm »

I got an e-mail from little sister today that made me think of this thread. She dumped some leftover Zap in the sink, went on about cleaning the laundry room and came back to a bad black stain in the stainless sink. She said it hasn't scrubbed out so far. The label lists muriatic and sulphuric acids. I told her I think there is actually a kitchen sink hanging in my barn. I would just as soon spend my time leaving empty barleypop cans on her hubby's tablesaw as installing a sink

, reckon its ruined?

JimBuis · « **Reply #12 on:** September 18, 2006, 09:17:32 pm »

Yeah, the sink is ruined. I had some renters try to fix their own stopped up kitchen sink instead of calling for help. They poured some plumber's acid into the sink full of standing water and left it sit for several days. Destroyed the garbage disposal and the stainless steel sink. The sink always looks dirty and nasty no matter how much it is scrubbed or polished. Had to replace it.

Jim

Modat22 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 18, 2006, 09:40:43 pm »

I use a concentrated cleaner called aqua mix phosphoric acid cleaner, it contains phosphoric acid and a soap on my cast iron tools. Wipe it on, let it sit a bit then clean it off with a little T-9 then buff with a scotch bright pad.

Phosphoric acid changes iron oxide to iron phosphate which makes it easier to remove and slows the reaction.

T-9 also makes a spray on phosphoric acid treatment that I haven't tried yet but I bet its not as cheap at aqua mix.

Now saying this, be careful since this is acid. I use a 50/50 mix and I do my best to remove the remaining acid with T-9.

Larry · « **Reply #14 on:** September 18, 2006, 09:47:15 pm »

Probably really a stupid question, but why is the fence on the left side of the blade?

As far as the welding on cast iron I guess the pros would use nickel rod. I hate the stuff and avoid it every chance I get...but I’m a shade tree welder. I don’t mind a bit using brazing rod on cast iron and get a good weld...but ya gotta have a torch.

tlooney · « **Reply #15 on:** September 19, 2006, 12:59:34 am »

I use a surface stone on my tablesaw. It is the same one I use on the pallet of the machining center I operate at work. Takes all the high spots off and does a great job. Use with WD-40.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #16 on:** September 19, 2006, 09:34:27 am »

Larry,

Don't got no torch

The fence is on the left because I like it there for this particular run. It has more to do with the way I carry boards and all the stuff I need to maneuver around than anything else and a little on the direction the sawdust that doesn't get sucked up goes. I may find I don't like it as much as I think once I start production. If that is the case I can easily move it to the right side of the dado blade. The powerfeeder won't need to move other than a slight adjustment to keep the board riding against the fence.

The saw is a left tilt unit and the fence normally is on the right of the blade but sometimes I just can't bear to be normal

Paschale · « **Reply #17 on:** October 09, 2006, 11:07:56 pm »

Quote from: Modat22 on September 18, 2006, 09:40:43 pm

T-9 also makes a spray on phosphoric acid treatment that I haven't tried yet but I bet its not as cheap at aqua mix.

I've used the Boeshield T-9 Phosphoric Acid spray myself. It really works, though it's potent stuff. When you start seeing vapors come off of the metal, you know something's going on!

The disappointing thing was that it completely took the mirror-sheen off of my PM. That was early on in my ownership, and it bugged the heck outta me. Doesn't bother me a lick now!

I try to keep Johnson's on, but there are times when I'm just not out there using the saw for a month or so at a time, and a small film of rust might pop up. I find it comes right off with a Scotch Brite pad, and then I wipe it down with an old t-shirt till all the dust and what not is off, then rub in some Johnson's. Good for another couple of months.

Don P · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2006, 06:49:15 am »

My folks are closer to little sisters and there's grandbaby's there... they went down to take a look at her sink. I'm not making any comments about apples and their proximity to trees, but he had a spare kitchen sink floating around too and took it with them. Dad used rubbing compound in the old bowl and got it down to where little sis said it isn't perfect but looked good enough to her. I didn't remember that as another cleaning comment, so there'tiz. My planer lives under shelter but outdoors and gets alot of moisture on the bed. I do keep it waxed up but it has developed that patina that only age and work and weather can impart to old iron. That's what I tell myself till I can build more buildings

.

SawDust_Studios · « **Reply #19 on:** October 12, 2006, 11:17:59 pm »

Yep, T-9 is some great stuff. I inherited my grandfathers planer after he passed and we cleaned that up pretty good with t-9 after it sat in the barn for several years.

CHARLIE · « **Reply #20 on:** October 24, 2006, 01:08:30 am »

I figure stains on cast metal in the shop is just part of a shop that's being used for more than just show. I kick myself everytime I forget and leave a block of oak sitting on my bandsaw table or my tablesaw, but I rub it out smooth and wax it and don't worry about it.

I like to use automotive rubbing compound and follow up with a coat of Johnson's paste floor wax.

Now for the serious problem. Back when Tom and I were going to Georgia Military College, we had general room inspections twice a day, On Wednesday a dust inspection and on Saturday morning a whiz bang heckuva dust inspection where we stripped the floors, waxed 'em with Johnson's paste wax and polished it to a high shine. When I left in 1962, I had a can of that Johnson's floor wax, which I've kept and used on my cast iron tables. What's the problem you say? My 1962 wax is almost gone. It's just around the corners of the bottom of the can. Geeez I'm gonna miss that wax when it's gone....sniff

Hmmmmm, maybe I'll sell he empty can on E-Bay as an antique.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #21 on:** October 24, 2006, 10:45:34 am »

. . .noe Tom can stop looking for that can of wax he thought he had

Tom · « **Reply #22 on:** October 24, 2006, 11:02:30 am »

Charlie stole my can of Wax??

No fear, Charlie. The place to find the was today is in a grocery store. Both Publix and Winn Dixie carry it. It may not be many cans, but they either have it or will get it. I don't know why the hardware stores don't carry it anymore. That seems to be the natural place.

In fear of being without, I bought all they had at the Winn Dixie a few years ago. Having been told by Mr. Shippey that I needed it for my turnings, I was in fear of being without. I still have about 6 or 8 cans in the laundry room, I see.

If you can't find it way up there in Westkonsin, let me know.

CHARLIE · « **Reply #23 on:** November 01, 2006, 11:28:11 pm »

But Tom, you don't unnerstan....

You is talkin' about new Johnson's Paste wax. I'm talkin' about 1962 vintage Johnson's Paste wax that I've had for 44 years. It's like a fine wine......'cept it's almost gone. I'll sell the empty can for a couple hundred bucks though.

Tom · « **Reply #24 on:** November 01, 2006, 11:34:15 pm »

A 44 yearold can of johnson's paste wax. ??

somehow, a couple of hunnerd bucks sounds expensive.

I wonder if a donation to GMC would get it in the auction?

jpgreen · « **Reply #25 on:** November 04, 2006, 01:52:53 am »

You guys autta see my Craftsman table right now..

I'm holding a 62 winchester Model 70 in 30'06 as we speak..

twas a very good year. .

Ironwood · « **Reply #26 on:** November 04, 2006, 03:17:23 am »

I sand it with 220 grit then finish out finer. It happens to me several times each year for various reasons.

. YUP it is a users shop, just the way it is. Reid

mike_van · « **Reply #27 on:** November 04, 2006, 06:19:44 pm »

If those pits are so deep that they're rough, I wonder if JB Weld would work to fill in, then sand off? The stuff is amazing, I fixed a leaky seam on a gas tank with it, and also a cracked block [from a rod hitting it] on a Briggs engine. Both are still working today.

Jeff · « **Reply #28 on:** November 04, 2006, 06:25:23 pm »

I learned something from a couple of my old engine buddies up in da U.P. last time up there. They were talking about having cured this problem with rusting in thier garages. anything like the table saws and such, and even disassembled engines. THey sais the easy cure is to simply cover with REAL canvas. Not poly tarps and such. Vic and Ken both claim that is all there is to it.

Ironwood · « **Reply #29 on:** November 05, 2006, 07:48:56 am »

How ABOUT USED RUBBER ROOF MATERIAL, IT IS EVEN BETTER THAN REAL CANVAS, TAKE IT FROM A GUY WITH TONS OF STUFF OUTSIDE!!! REID

solodan · « **Reply #30 on:** November 05, 2006, 12:36:55 pm »

I just use the polytarps, cause if I start using something that really works, like rubber roof material, then I will never build a home for all the stuff I have outside. I really love late spring after all the snow is gone, cause I find all kinds of things that I forgot I had.

And my method for removing rust is the same as Reid's, for the same various reasons

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #31 on:** December 12, 2006, 01:07:52 pm »

I've been cleaning my table tops off my wood working equipment today. Been using super fine steel wool and WD-40 and wipe off with a rage. I see OWW used mineral spirits. That what we call mineral oil, sometimes used as laxative? I might use that when I'm done, because WD dries away from the surface.

I know what you guys mean about rust when any wood is left sitting on the table tops. I always tried to keep mine cleaned off, but when you don't use stuff for awhile, it gets neglected and forgotten.

I'm working on a new bedside stand. I don't like the ones with drawers on top and bottom. I want drawer on top and doors on bottom.

cheers, back to work.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #32 on:** December 12, 2006, 01:13:00 pm »

Jeff, my tarps would mold. The old shop is quite damp in summer. I even get mold on concrete, and what ever alien it comes from, it even eats concrete. Reminds me of the movie 'Alien' when they try to remove that thing off the guys face by cutting one of it's legs. It oozes out some kinda costic juice that eats down through the ship.

DOH!!!! woowsers

slowzuki · « **Reply #33 on:** December 12, 2006, 01:52:55 pm »

Swampy, mineral spirits is varsol up here, maybe down there too. So far I've found a shot of red rust check on stuff before its left works well. My drill press gets coated frequently.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #34 on:** December 12, 2006, 04:16:21 pm »

A yes, varsol. I found I did a good job getting the rust off today. It never rusted as much as it did this time because I always kept stuff coated with oil, but this stuff ain't been used for about 4 years.

Might get a can of the rust check to try. Mike's got some good stuff with his Rust Reaper products though. I gave all my stuff away as door prizes a couple years ago. Shipping is too expensive for me, but if I lived in Maine I wouldn't hesitate. UPS adds a fuel surcharge when they deliver stuff from state side now and you aren't notified by them until they arrive at the door for extra cash.

I got my hardwood planed up today and jointed, ready to do some cutting the length tomorrow. I think I'll try biscuit jointing the back and sides with my new jointer I ain't taken out of the box since I bought it 4 years ago.

I'm going to use butternut , birch and ash, love hardwood. The wood came from the woodlot a few years ago, should be good and dry now. I think I'll turn the legs out of the birch, I got some 1"-1/8 x 5" stock. If that don't suit me, I'll try some cherry. I think it's going to be nice with contrasting grain and light/dark pieces.

Bought a new one of then blades for the table saw you exchange to be sharpened. I didn't think or I would'a took my old one in and saved $50. Doh!!

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #35 on:** December 13, 2006, 12:50:57 pm »

OWW,

I didn't read where you said you were happy/unhappy with the results of your steel wool etc. I have a kit with 5 different bottles of chemicals for the table saw and the router. One of the bottles is formulated expressley for cleaning rust off of tables saws (or of course any such surface).
I am not at the shop but here in a couple hours i will be there and post the product info . . . .
Of course it does not contain a bottle labeled "Pit Filler".
On a different note, what brand/HP/# of Wheels feeder did you order and are you happy with it.

I need to upgrade to a 2HP or bigger and I think I want 4 wheels but I don't know for sure. Could you please share you experience with yours so far?

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #36 on:** December 13, 2006, 03:56:20 pm »

Hit the switch on the Makita router. The bit made about 5 turns and a fizz...

Dead. I'm wondering if a fuse is in one of those. It's a 2.15 HP router mounted to a Craftsman table. Guess I'll have to buy a new one this summer.

Had this one for about 14 years. Cheaper to buy one than to fix it. Shame.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #37 on:** December 13, 2006, 04:17:29 pm »

OWW, and you other woodworkers, I picked up the bottle and it had the company's website on the bottle itself. Good thing I can't find the paperwork on it.CLICK HERE.
The stuff for removing the rust is called Top Saver. It works extremely well. I could have said very well but that would have been an understatement. Better than anything I have ever tried.

These are not a bunch of bottles of stuff that they are using to make money - all this stuff actually works to the point that you can clearly see and feel the difference.

Norm · « **Reply #38 on:** December 13, 2006, 04:34:37 pm »

Kevin I bought the grizzly 3/4 hp 4 wheel power feeder, it is a huge beast! Not sure what you are going to use a 2 hp one for but I was amazed at how big the 3/4 hp was.

jpgreen · « **Reply #39 on:** December 13, 2006, 04:36:42 pm »

Quote from: SwampDonkey on December 13, 2006, 03:56:20 pm

Hit the switch on the Makita router. The bit made about 5 turns and a fizz... Dead. I'm wondering if a fuse is in one of those. It's a 2.15 HP router mounted to a Craftsman table. Guess I'll have to buy a new one this summer. Had this one for about 14 years. Cheaper to buy one than to fix it. Shame.

Brushes SD, brushes!!!

Most Makita's let you change out brushes easily. Give that a looksee..

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #40 on:** December 13, 2006, 04:45:53 pm »

Quote from: Norm on December 13, 2006, 04:34:37 pm

Kevin I bought the grizzly 3/4 hp 4 wheel power feeder, it is a huge beast! Not sure what you are going to use a 2 hp one for but I was amazed at how big the 3/4 hp was.

I have 16" 3 phase 7.5HP table saw which you can cram 4" osage into and it won't bog down. I want to be sure I have enough ooomph behind the feeder. It might be overkill but it might not.

I don't realy know how to size a feeder it's possible I would be going way overboard. What do you think?

SD, jp could be right but on most of the older Makita roiuters the brushes were not accessible, at least on the two old ones I have.

Norm · « **Reply #41 on:** December 13, 2006, 05:03:09 pm »

Well I can sure see why you are looking at that size. If you want I'll take a picture of mine to give you an idea of it's heft.

Robert got the 1hp version of the one I got so he may be able to give you an idea of it's abilities.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #42 on:** December 13, 2006, 05:37:32 pm »

Kevin, I wouldn't even know what I was look'in at when I'm look'in at it. There is a couple electrical shops around the area. Meanwhile, I used the table saw to do what I needed.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #43 on:** December 13, 2006, 06:58:05 pm »

Thats cool Norm I will call the guy at Eagle (formwrly Oliver) he's been real helpful and is a fountain of knowledge on these machines.

SD here's what a brush access screw looks like. That big plastic thing with the slot screw. One one each side.
Some machines have an actual little "door" you have to remove but I don't think Makita ever used that type of thing. After you take the screw off, be careful while you are doing it it is spring loaded to keep pressure applied to the armeture (actually I think the commutator?), the "brush" itslef is not a "brush" at all but looks like a square or rectangular magnet, anywhere from a 1/4 to a 1/2" long that will have a crescent shape worn into the end. Or the thing in your case might be gone altogether. You can order brushes from tool repair shops online etc. If you even have brushes.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #44 on:** December 13, 2006, 07:17:56 pm »

Kevin, I opened one up today to see what was inside and it was spring loaded as you say. There was a wire soldered onto a piece of brass. I might do a search online for a repair manual some day. I'll probably end up taking it to a shop. I know one outfit that is fast and reasonable with this kind of thing. I forget what this machine cost, gotta look that up to.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #45 on:** December 13, 2006, 07:34:34 pm »

Amazon has one for $229, not the same model, but same Horse. It is also a lot quieter, and comes with a kit, and has variable speed (8000 - 24000 rpm).

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #46 on:** December 13, 2006, 07:48:09 pm »

Does that piece of brass look like it could hold a small rectangular or square magnet? Even if you do get a new one (we never have to justify buying a new tool; it's a mans' perogative) it would be a shame to toss the old one just for brushes.
And it is always good to have at least 2 routers of the same basic size because if you ever find yourself doing any kind of repetitive work that has two processes, not having to change bits all the time is a big time-saver.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #47 on:** December 13, 2006, 08:28:40 pm »

Occasionally, the brushes are just pieces of carbon that are dropped into the hole where the brass thingy came out. Might check to see if there is any carbon piece(s) down in that hole. Might just be the carbon is gone and need new pieces.

Furby · « **Reply #48 on:** December 13, 2006, 08:32:05 pm »

Show us a pic Donk, we can save ya a few bucks!

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #49 on:** December 14, 2006, 04:44:47 am »

I'll bring it up from the shop sometime in the next day or two. Busy ya know in the shop.

OneWithWood · « **Reply #50 on:** December 14, 2006, 10:04:29 am »

Kevjay,
I am satisfied with the job the mineral spirits and steel wool did. I might try some of the stuff you linked to just to see if I can lift the stains.
I bought the 1hp Grizzly powerfeeder. It is a beast. I think it weighs in excess of 180 pounds. I mounted it off to the side of the saw because I wanted to be able to move it easily and I wasn't keen on drilling holes in the table. It moves the wood through nicely once you get it dialed in. What a time saver, not to mention finger saver

Here is a thread with a pic on my setup
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=21109.0

I have since built a wooden stand next to the saw to rest the power head on when it is not in use.

Norm · « **Reply #51 on:** December 14, 2006, 12:32:56 pm »

Here's a picture of mine Kevin, it's setting on a powermatic table saw.

TexasTimbers · « **Reply #52 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:16:39 pm »

Quote from: OneWithWood on December 14, 2006, 10:04:29 am

..... I might try some of the stuff you linked to just to see if I can lift the stains. . . .

It lifted them off of my 60 year old table top. Not saying the stains were that old of course.

So how bout you Norm; you thinking that Griz is Da Bomb too?

I generally try to buy Grizzly as a last resort. But sometimes the price is so low, and quality just acceptable enough that I do so. My first 10" slider was a 1023S and it was a nice machine after I finally got it dialed in.
I also think I remember reading where their feeders were rated a sBest Buys and in one case Editors Choice, price not a factor.
I will probabky get the Grizzly. I haven't found anything close to it in quality for price ratio.

Norm · « **Reply #53 on:** December 14, 2006, 01:55:37 pm »

I used to avoid grizzly too Kevin but I now own their jointer, spiral head planer and power feeder. They are good quality and I've had no problems with them. I looked long and hard at the powermatic power feeder before deciding on the grizzly, it came down to price and availability for me.

jpgreen · « **Reply #54 on:** December 14, 2006, 02:19:45 pm »

Find your schematic part breakdown here...

http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/

I don't have a Makita router, but I know my other Makita's have the replaceable brushes Skil type saw and others.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #55 on:** December 14, 2006, 03:12:19 pm »

thanks JP

They say they can get them in locally at the hardware store.

jpgreen · « **Reply #56 on:** December 14, 2006, 03:15:44 pm »

Just......

another.......

service.......

we........

provide..

OneWithWood · « **Reply #57 on:** March 02, 2007, 10:05:19 am »

Been meaning to update this thread for a while. Furb and Stumpjumper jogged my memeory when they paid me a visit last week and the thought just surfaced again - so I am taking advantage of this rare sensient moment.

After I got the stain under control and the table smooth again I started researching the best wax to use to proect the table. I had been using Johnson paste wax for furniture. After an exhaustive search I thought I would try something my dear old dad often tried to get through my somewhat impervious cranium. I can still hear his words echoing in my head:

"If all else fails, read the instructions!"

So I got out the booklet that came with the PM2000. And there in black and white, hiding among a bunch of other words was this sentence. -or something close to it-

Talcum powder applied with a blackboard eraser will fill the microscopic pores in the table top metal preventing moisture adhesion and will not effect the wood.

I have been powdering my tables ever since and there has been no sign of rust accumulation so it must be working.

Paschale · « **Reply #58 on:** March 02, 2007, 12:20:53 pm »

Well, you've got that table top back into pristine order, and it's as smooth as a baby's behind...and smells like one too, with all that talcum powder.

I read that in my manual too, but haven't tried it. This is the time of year when the weather wreaks havoc on my equipment, so I've been planning to go out there and get them prepped for the change in temp and humidity. Maybe I'll try the talcum powder this time aroud...

Larry · « **Reply #59 on:** March 02, 2007, 12:44:47 pm »

I use a lot of talcum powder...not to prevent rust but to keep wood sliding smoothly. It really comes in handy when running moulding through the Belsaw or shaper...in most cases you would have to break down your setup to apply wax. I also keep a bar of paraffin wax handy. You can break off a little chunk and let a board push it through for application sometimes.

Best way to clean rust off is to slop diesel, oil or whatever you have handy on the surface and let it sit for an hour. Next take one of those window scraper things that use the straight razor blades...scrape the rust off. Wipe the surface with mineral spirits than hit it with a right angle grinder with a steel wire brush. Bear down just enough to give it the patina of well used and maintained old arn. Bear down to long or hard and it will make shiny spots which look a littler strange. I cleaned up a bandsaw table in about 15 minutes yesterday, and that included slopping on some paraffin, dissolved in mineral spirits for a little protection.

jack · « **Reply #60 on:** March 08, 2007, 12:12:31 am »

OK gents, and ladies....

Im lookin for a good table saw to put in the shop.... (so i can clean the rust off of...seems im missin out on that issue as of now).

I have about $400-600 to spend. I would like to get something that has a good fence and enough power to cut thru a piece of euculyptus...

My shop is solar powered, cept the 30 kw threephase electricity maker. but the ph260 is taking a bit of that.

Any suggestions would be appreciated
Jack

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #61 on:** March 08, 2007, 06:17:17 am »

Well what ever it is, make sure it's a 220V motor and cast iron. I'm not sure $600 will buy it, might. A good one here (New Brunswick) is closer to $900 now.

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Author Topic: Help! Rust on table of table saw (Read 4508 times)