Help! Rust on table of table saw

[OneWithWood]

Made a mistake and left a green white oak board sit on the table of my tablesaw for a week.  Now I have a large area of pitted rust stains
I plan on attacking the stains with fine steel wool and emery cloth.  Anyone got any better solutions?

I could just kick myself

[JimBuis]

I like to use an angle grinder with a new buffing wheel on it and some buffing compound.  What you have described would work fine, but would take awhile.  After buffing mine out, I go over it with two good coats of paste wax.  It works for me and the saw is a pleasure to use after a nice coat of wax.

IMHO,
Jim

[beenthere]

OWW
Might be more stain than rust. I'd try a dropper of muriatic acid on a spot to see if that would work, and/or a dropper of oxalic acid. Oxalic acid is used to remove stains from wood from metal reaction with the tanning in oak and it might work on the metal itself. The stain probably works into the porous cast steel, and may just stay there. Not sure of the chemistry of that so would try small areas first. Seems if it can be removed, some oil soaked into the metal would be a next step before the wax.
I'd be careful with anything to keep working the table top flat, to avoid getting local depressions (that would take a lot but still might be possible if concentrating on small areas).

Embarrassing, and all on a new saw, but a pic would help show others what can happen, if you can bring yourself to do that.
Coulda been worse, maybe 

[Larry]

The pits are there for the duration.  If it was my saw I would use a little emery paper with lube, such as mineral spirits or maybe WD40.  Of course a little elbow grease...and don’t even think of a power tool.  Just knock off the heavy rust and get some kind of wax on it.  Lot of products to get your money...most woodworkers say Johnsons Paste Wax...no silicone.  Pretty good stuff...I’m really lazy and use Gulf Wax paraffin...just smear it on and don't worry bout wiping it off.

Now iffen your using the saw the top will shine up quite quick...especially with that new power feeder.

If you get to distraught I have a 40 year old Unisaw with a pristine top, that I might trade for your saw...of course ya might have to come up with a little boot.

[jkj]

I'll bet eveyone has done that at least once, or will someday.  Sawdust and turning shavings from green white oak are just as bad.  I put a big mark on my bandsaw table once.  I remove most of the rust with a fine sanding block and WD-40.

If I remember to replenish it, a coating of Renaissance Wax on a casting or steel top will not only help protect, but reduce friction on the surface.

JKJ

[Riles]

I did it with red oak.   

[trim4u2nv]

Get a grill cleaning block (pumice i think) and buff it out.  Available at any restaurant supply or greasy spoon.

[metalspinner]

Pressure treated did me in.

[pigman]

I let some water get on my saw. It was easy to remove the rust, but the stain is still there.  I am glad it was only a Grizzly and not not a Powermatic.
Bob

[amberwood]

couple of drips of yellow glue onto the jointer bed off a long glue up.....glue comes off but has left a dark stain in the steel.

I use a small palm sander "mouse" fitted with a velcro pad..and wax car polish. The pad is like a plastic pot scubber. Wipe the wax on with a rag, and polish off with mouse.

It leaves a great looking corrosion resistant finish that cleans easily and makes the timber slide very easily.

DTR

[OneWithWood]

OK, Beenthere, just to prove I am not proud - and to help others learn from my mistake- here are some illustrative pics:

A reenactment of the crime scene.  This board was left in place for about ten days while I waited for the powerfeed to arrive.


Here is the result 


I decided against the oxalic acid because it called for a thorough rinsing of the area with cool water.  Sure didn't want to add to the problem .  I ended up using a 00 super fine steel wool pad to knock the rust off.  Followed up with mineral spirits and a good coat of Johnson Fine Furniture paste wax.  As a rule I clean the table every week and add some more paste wax.  I guess it wasn't good enough 
So now my saw has been marked and I can get on with the business at hand.  Sort of like nicking a dog on the mill

[Don P]

I got an e-mail from little sister today that made me think of this thread. She dumped some leftover Zap in the sink, went on about cleaning the laundry room and came back to a bad black stain in the stainless sink. She said it hasn't scrubbed out so far. The label lists muriatic and sulphuric acids. I told her I think there is actually a kitchen sink hanging in my barn. I would just as soon spend my time leaving empty barleypop cans on her hubby's tablesaw as installing a sink  , reckon its ruined?

[JimBuis]

Yeah, the sink is ruined.  I had some renters try to fix their own stopped up kitchen sink instead of calling for help. They poured some plumber's acid into the sink full of standing water and left it sit for several days.  Destroyed the garbage disposal and the stainless steel sink.  The sink always looks dirty and nasty no matter how much it is scrubbed or polished.  Had to replace it.

Jim

[Modat22]

I use a concentrated cleaner called aqua mix phosphoric acid cleaner, it contains phosphoric acid and a soap on my cast iron tools. Wipe it on, let it sit a bit then clean it off with a little T-9 then buff with a scotch bright pad.

Phosphoric acid changes iron oxide to iron phosphate which makes it easier to remove and slows the reaction.

T-9 also makes a spray on phosphoric acid treatment that I haven't tried yet but I bet its not as cheap at aqua mix.

Now saying this, be careful since this is acid. I use a 50/50 mix and I do my best to remove the remaining acid with T-9.

[Larry]

Probably really a stupid question, but why is the fence on the left side of the blade?

As far as the welding on cast iron I guess the pros would use nickel rod.  I hate the stuff and avoid it every chance I get...but I’m a shade tree welder.  I don’t mind a bit using brazing rod on cast iron and get a good weld...but ya gotta have a torch.

[tlooney]

I use a surface stone on my tablesaw. It is the same one I use on the pallet of the machining center I operate at work. Takes all the high spots off  and does a great job. Use with WD-40.

[OneWithWood]

Larry,

Don't got no torch

The fence is on the left because I like it there for this particular run.  It has more to do with the way I carry boards and all the stuff I need to maneuver around than anything else and a little on the direction the sawdust that doesn't get sucked up goes.  I may find I don't like it as much as I think once I start production.  If that is the case I can easily move it to the right side of the dado blade.  The powerfeeder won't need to move other than a slight adjustment to keep the board riding against the fence.

The saw is a left tilt unit and the fence normally is on the right of the blade but sometimes I just can't bear to be normal

[Paschale]

T-9 also makes a spray on phosphoric acid treatment that I haven't tried yet but I bet its not as cheap at aqua mix.

I've used the Boeshield T-9 Phosphoric Acid spray myself.  It really works, though it's potent stuff.  When you start seeing vapors come off of the metal, you know something's going on!

The disappointing thing was that it completely took the mirror-sheen off of my PM.  That was early on in my ownership, and it bugged the heck outta me.  Doesn't bother me a lick now!

I try to keep Johnson's on, but there are times when I'm just not out there using the saw for a month or so at a time, and a small film of rust might pop up.  I find it comes right off with a Scotch Brite pad, and then I wipe it down with an old t-shirt till all the dust and what not is off, then rub in some Johnson's.  Good for another couple of months.

[Don P]

My folks are closer to little sisters and there's grandbaby's there... they went down to take a look at her sink. I'm not making any comments about apples and their proximity to trees, but he had a spare kitchen sink floating around too and took it with them. Dad used rubbing compound in the old bowl and got it down to where little sis said it isn't perfect but looked good enough to her. I didn't remember that as another cleaning comment, so there'tiz. My planer lives under shelter but outdoors and gets alot of moisture on the bed. I do keep it waxed up but it has developed that patina that only age and work and weather can impart to old iron. That's what I tell myself till I can build more buildings   .

[SawDust_Studios]

Yep, T-9 is some great stuff.  I inherited my grandfathers planer after he passed and we cleaned that up pretty good with t-9 after it sat in the barn for several years.