Author Topic: Stihl 066 (Read 3998 times)

Weekend_Sawyer · « **on:** December 19, 2002, 06:58:23 am »

I was cleaning my 066 last night and pulled the rim sprocket off, then pulled the outer clutch housing off and there is a set of needle berings in a cage around the end of the shaft.

My question is, should I dab a little grease around these bearings? Currently they are dry.

IndyIan · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2002, 12:54:01 pm »

I'm not an expert but most bearings like grease! I think my husky 372 has a similar clutch set up and there is a hole in the center of the driveshaft, this is where the manual says to squirt grease in with my disposible greaser. I believe it lubes the same bearings. That could be totally wrong for your saw, I would try and find an owner's manual for it and do what it says.
Good luck,
Ian

ADfields · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2002, 02:50:25 pm »

Needs some form of lube on it!

Tillaway · « **Reply #3 on:** December 19, 2002, 04:28:40 pm »

Check for damage first, clean them up and grease them. They are a normal wear part and not expensive so feel free to replace if there are any doubts.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #4 on:** December 20, 2002, 11:18:30 am »

Thanks guys. I was surprized to find them dry. They look pretty good. I will dab some grease on them and re assemble.
Got to cut some firewood out of my scrap pile this weekend.

Everyone have a Great weekend and a fun holiday.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #5 on:** January 06, 2003, 02:25:36 pm »

Well I put just a little too much grease in there. The clutch did not slip, It cut just fine, but when I took it down for cleaning and checked the bearings, they looked good but grease had slung all over the inside of the housing. WD-40 cleande it out and I put much less grease in there this time.

I also started using a blow nozzle on my compressor. Man that works! Maks cleaning the saws much easier.

Jon

RMay · « **Reply #6 on:** January 06, 2003, 06:17:32 pm »

Weekend Sawer use your chain saw bar grease gun to grease the sprooket bearing . Husqvarna recommends greasing once a week with high quality bearing grease .

Mr._Logical · « **Reply #7 on:** January 30, 2003, 06:22:18 pm »

I'm Stihl trained mechanic. There is an orange tube of lithium grease recommended for the needle bearing you are talking about. See your authorized Stihl Dealer. Same grease is applied on connecting rod when or if you ever replace your piston and Cylinder. Good luck. This needle bearing should last a very long time. Not very long if it gets dry!!!

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2003, 04:44:56 am »

Welcome to the board Mr._Logical. This is a fun place to hang out, lots of good information too!

I will find out about that grease.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2003, 04:50:51 am »

Do you know how often this grease needs to be applied?
I'm guessing whenever it looks like it needs it is the answer.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2003, 05:42:00 pm »

That bearing only has to turn when the saw is idling. If the chain is turning the bearing is not. Grease as you see fit. I wear out the sprockets before I wear out that ungreased bearing.

Mr._Logical · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2003, 06:05:05 pm »

We recommend to add the lithium grease about as often as you replace a completely worn out chain as a good guide. It's back to an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. The worst part about this little bearing is it will shut you down completely for the day. At the worst possible time. It is however not a common problem of failure.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2003, 04:07:50 am »

Is this bearing riding directoy on the end of the crank? or is that shaft mated to the crank. What I am getting at is if the bearing fails am I looking at resurfacing or replacing the crank or just a coupler.

Oregon_Rob · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2003, 04:37:48 am »

If you go to stihl's web site, you can order a manual for your saw and it is Free.

I did that for my little 009.

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2003, 06:28:57 am »

Thanks Rob, I just did it.

Kevin · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2003, 09:23:22 am »

Jon ;
The caged needle roller bearing is located between the clutch drum hub and the shaft.
The bearing uses the shaft as the inner race and the clutch drum hub as the outer race.
Bearing failure is usually due to storing the saw after use in wet conditions.
A high temperature water resistant grease is recommended.

Mr._Logical · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2003, 05:18:24 pm »

This bearing rides on the end of the Crankshaft. The good thing is when I have seen a failure of this bearing it has never damaged the shaft.

(Not to say it would be impossible to do.)

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2003, 07:24:27 am »

Thanks for this thread guys.

Got to noticing on my 044 that when I put the chain break on the engine would bog down. My first thought was that I needed to set up the idle speed. Then I thought , no , that doesn't make sense-----especially after I noticed that the chain kept running at idle speed.

I havn't looked at it yet (just put it down and used another saw) but I bet I'll find a bad or dry bearing.

Noble

Stephen · « **Reply #18 on:** February 07, 2003, 08:15:08 am »

Noble,
My first thought would be a broken clutch spring.

Stephen

P.S. I was once looking for a small spring for the drum switch off my WoodMizer. A local farm equipment dealer looked at the spring, said "diesel-fitter" and sold me a few, which I think were Stihl clutch springs. They did fit, and are still on the mill.

Mr._Logical · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2003, 01:17:38 pm »

Noble,

You could be right about this bearing. I just had a saw in the shop that ran fine but would stall when the brake was applied. I also thought orriginally that at idle speed the chain kept running that I had a weak spring in the clutch until I applied the brake and the saw stalled, I knew there was a problem related to this bearing. Upon pulling it apart the bearing cage had fused everthing together. replaced the bearing loaded with the lithium grease and back in bussiness.

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #20 on:** February 12, 2003, 12:45:30 am »

twasdasprang

Thought I learned sumpin but I didn't :-/-------Oh well, I learned sumpin else instead

Boy, when you don't know nuttin, it's sure easy to learn a lot. Wait a minute, that don't make no sense.

Noble

Mark M · « **Reply #21 on:** February 12, 2003, 10:23:50 am »

Ney Noble

I once new a fella who had a PhD. He spent a long time a learnin his specialty. As time went on you could say he learned more and more about less and less.

Pretty soon he knew a whole lot about nothin.

Mark

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #22 on:** February 12, 2003, 11:17:23 am »

Mark,

Man, that caused me to do some real deep thinking for a minute. Got to thinking about the guy I used to teach with that claimed he had 30 years experience. I kinda think he had 1 year experience 30 times.

Noble

woodmills1 · « **Reply #23 on:** February 12, 2003, 01:26:55 pm »

yes, teaching the only business where the plan stays the same year to year but the raw material changes. come to think of it though the way Mass has been with their MCAS demands even the plan changes. I must have corrected well over a million physics problems by now, should put a sign over my door like the burger mart

Bro. Noble · « **Reply #24 on:** February 12, 2003, 01:55:30 pm »

Woodmills,

I wasn't slamming teachers. The same is true of any occupation you might name. Some people gain experience and learn new stuff every day while the next guy might do everything like he did yesterday. They never wonder why or howcome or would this work better.

Noble

woodmills1 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 15, 2003, 06:32:51 am »

I didn't sense no slammin, I just wanted to share how teachin is a bit different, in a way it is a years worth of experience times the number of years. everytime we changed books or curriculum I would feel like a novice the first year, a little better the second, and by the third I would be answering the questions before they were asked

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #26 on:** October 20, 2011, 07:24:20 am »

sooo, I was going to post a question about oiling the needle bearings in my clutch but thought I'd search the forum just to see if the info was allready out there, when, lo, I stumble across this old post where I had asked the very question 9 years ago! As I was reading through it I thought hmm, I'm having to relearn things I allready learned before but forgot.

Then reading on I see a conversation between Bro Noble and MarkM about almost the same thing. I miss them both.

As with alot of things in life, there is no moral to this story, it just kindof made me go hummmm.
Atleast I got my question answered... again.

... someone hand me my crayon, I'm going to make a note of this.
Jon

Al_Smith · « **Reply #27 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:39:46 pm »

Most people do not grease them,just a fact .Seldom does one fail .Keep in mind though if they do they can break a clutch segment and in extreme conditions break a crankshaft from running excentric .In addition running excentric can knock out a bearing which will take the seal with it .

I've seen broken clutchs and clutch drums worn with a radius in them from a bad bearing .They only cost a few bucks and it's worth replacing if it gets wobbley .

Myself if I think about I'll drop a little bar lube oil on them .

Oh Lawdy I had a Stihl a few years back they ran with no bearing .Broke two out of three clutch segments and about melted all the plastic off the inner cover .Tree trimmers ,gotta love them .

acco1840 · « **Reply #28 on:** October 20, 2011, 10:48:45 pm »

Quote from: Weekend_Sawyer on January 06, 2003, 02:25:36 pm

Well I put just a little too much grease in there. The clutch did not slip, It cut just fine, but when I took it down for cleaning and checked the bearings, they looked good but grease had slung all over the inside of the housing. WD-40 cleande it out and I put much less grease in there this time.

I also started using a blow nozzle on my compressor. Man that works! Maks cleaning the saws much easier.

Jon

I had the same problem. I switched to using bar oil on the bearing every week. never had any more problems.

joe_indi · « **Reply #29 on:** October 23, 2011, 12:34:18 am »

Quote from: Weekend_Sawyer on January 06, 2003, 02:25:36 pm

Well I put just a little too much grease in there. The clutch did not slip, It cut just fine, but when I took it down for cleaning and checked the bearings, they looked good but grease had slung all over the inside of the housing.

Jon, all you need to do is remove the needle bearing from the crank shaft, apply a very(very) thin film of multipurpose grease onto the crankshaft, fit the needle bearing, apply a very(very) tin film of grease on the needles and refit the clutch drum and sprocket and stuff. If you use the saw everyday all day long, do the greasing every evening.Otherwise, once a week is fine.
But, never never put in too much of grease on the needle bearing or any other clutch component.If the clutch parts become greasy the clutch will wear out faster because the fine metal dust from the worn parts of the clutch faces will not be blown off.
Instead it gets retained like a grinding paste which acts like an abrasive.
The lazy (fast) way of lubing the needle is to have the clutch side of the saw facing upwards and to pour a few drops of SAE 140 gear oil onto the e-clip and sprocket washer.You then move the drum up and down and also rotate it so that the oil seeps into the needles.This method is good in the field where you dont want to lose the E-clip or washer in the bushes.
A more lazy way is to mix some graphite(dry lubricant) into some grease.Use this to lube the needles.Even if the grease is thrown off the graphite ensures that the needles and crankshaft has something in between to prevent wear.

Joe

simonmeridew · « **Reply #30 on:** November 06, 2011, 07:38:15 pm »

I've seen this bearing with a plastic or nylon cage holding the rollers. This tells me that it doesn't get very hot or much wear. Don't put much grease on it, just a very thin coat. A lot will sling around and might affect the clutch operation.
simonmeridew

HolmenTree · « **Reply #31 on:** November 09, 2011, 12:24:35 am »

Seeing this topic is about a Stihl 066 clutch drum bearing I thought I'd chip in some advice. I own a 066 that I bought new in 1992, just retired it a few years ago. I never logged 8 hrs a day with it but with my tree service it did get a hour of work guaranteed each day. I operate 4 different size saws each day depending on what the job calls for.
So lets say 20 hrs a month ,240 hrs a year. So in 17 years thats 4080 hrs the 066 has on it right now.
I have never had the cylinder off this saw and have only greased the clutch drum bearing approximate 3 times in those 17 years.

What is the secret in keeping this saw running carefree for this long?......sharp chain, never run the saw right out of gas to the last drop.
Most important thing, its one of the most durable saws out there....... a Stihl 066.

Just Me · « **Reply #32 on:** November 14, 2011, 06:39:05 am »

I had a huge oak to cut up for firewood and it was too much for my 357 so my buddy stopped over with his 066. I want one!

How many saws should a carpenter have!

Larry

Weekend_Sawyer · « **Reply #33 on:** November 14, 2011, 06:50:50 am »

As many as he wants

News:

Author Topic: Stihl 066 (Read 3998 times)