Lets make some tongue and groove

[tomtrees]

Just what I would like to do in the near future Larry.
Dare I ask what “V” panels are ?

Tom trees

[Larry]

Woodworkers either try to hide there joinery or emphasis it.  In the work I showed it would be hard to hide the joints between the boards so a “V” groove is cut between the boards.  In wider boards such as car siding I’ve even seen a fake “V” groove.

Flooring is another example.  Solid wood flooring has a tongue and groove but after the floor is laid it is sanded so the joints are unnoticed.  Pre-finished engineered flooring many times has that “V” groove so any irregularity between boards won’t be noticed.

[taw6243]

I don't see many choices for T&G cutters - the one we bought leaves a square rather than rounded tongue making assembly a little slower. Do you know of any suppliers that might offer a cutter with a rounded tongue?
Great job on the post, we learned by trial and error and fired one board (harmlessly) across the shop while learning about how much we needed a power feeder.

https://woodtechtooling.com/

[woodbowl]

I've joined the shaper club.    Oh, it's just a little Sears 1/2 hp, but it's hd cast and is on a stand. I'm trying to run a little t&g and some of it's turning out and some of it isn't. I don't have a feeder or hold down rollers, so it's all by hand. After running the boards through the planer, some of them still have a bow and don't lay flat on the shaper table. Actually, a lot of this wood is probably going to have a bow, it's sweetgum. I really want to make it work because it's so nice. They are 3/4" rough, and finish out at 1/2" to 9/16". Hopefully it's not too thin to t&g. My cutters are 1/4" tongue, leaving 1/8" on each side. A "V" edge would be nice. 

I know there has to be a few tricks to running substandard wood. I'm thinking about the possiblities of running it crown down, keeping the face side in contact with the table. Your thoughts please.

[Lanier_Lurker]

When I climb cut with a hand held router the router will somtimes progress at a lot faster pace than I had planned.

If you want to really have some fun, do some climb cutting on a table saw.  I found myself in this situation by accident one time, and quickly realized I might have gotten disoriented.   

At least the piece I was cutting did not go flying across the yard, but it almost got yanked out of my hands.  I was notching a homemade piece of step-down molding and was running it along the top of the fence.

Machine feed when doing climb cuts is probably the only way to do it safely.

[pineywoods]

I hear you on the power feed. I have a cheap and dirty project in the works to make one. A small cheap belt sander with a coarse belt. OK it runs too fast, feed power to it through one of the little electronic boxes used to vary the speed on a router. Still have to figure out a mounting system.

[beenthere]

Lanier
Trying to figure how you 'climb' cut on a table saw?  Feeding it from the back side is best I can figure. 

[brdmkr]

Anybody ever thought about making a powerfeed from a gear motor?  I have one that turns 48 RPM with lots of torque.  Seems like it ought to be doable.

[Lanier_Lurker]

Lanier
Trying to figure how you 'climb' cut on a table saw?  Feeding it from the back side is best I can figure. 

Exactly.

[woodhick]

Larry thanks for the info.  I have made some paneling for my shop out of poplar like this but I did not use and auxillary fence the way you did.  I jointed one edge  ripped cut the groove and then cut the tongue.  I like the way you use the extra fence to set the final width also.

[park ranger]

I just got done with putting cedar wainscoting in my living room.  I used a bead on one side of the boards with no groove or overlap at all.  The bead hides any gap that might form (even a 1/16").  I ran it all through my shaper that I traded for a waist high stack of cedar boards.  Compared to flooring where the exact width is important the wainscoting went up fast. 

[woodbowl]

  I used a bead on one side of the boards with no groove or overlap at all.  The bead hides any gap that might form (even a 1/16"). 

What kind of bead PR? What is the shape of it? Sounds fast.

[park ranger]

 Hi woodbowl,  I think the radius of the bead is about 3/16", it's a cutter that I bought from harbor fraight.  I have to get the camera and take some pictures.  I got a old growth cedar snag about 3' that I cut it out of.  It went from log to wall in about 3 weeks.  I stikered it in the living room and when it got down to about 8% I planed it and then ripped it for exact width on the table saw.  I'll see about pictues tomorrow.