Author Topic: Can you identify the cause of this damage? (Read 1563 times)

Raphael · « **on:** June 02, 2006, 03:03:27 am »

Any ideas what's causing this:

It's a weeping cherry we planted in memory of my wife's son about 8 years ago. The split is ~6ft. long running from just below the first branch to the ground. It wasn't there last time I had to evict tent caterpillars from it's branches. Other than this split the tree is quite healthy and growing in size.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #1 on:** June 02, 2006, 05:31:19 am »

From what I understand a crack like that can develop if you have a main root die or an injury near the base of the tree. This may also occur if the tree was grafted to a root stock that out grows the grafted stem. Something else that may be at play is that in cold climates, on the SW aspect of the trunk, the trunk may thaw in the warm sun during the day. Then when the tree trunk feezes at night there is cell damage causing separation and a crack can develop. This is known as the 'southwest winter injury'.

Phorester · « **Reply #2 on:** June 03, 2006, 08:31:56 am »

SwampDonkey got it. It sure looks like frost crack to me. Especially if this in on the south or southwest side of the tree. It is also more prevelant on trees with smooth bark such as your cherry. It is common in my area of Virginia. One of my own yard trees has it.

It also looks like your tree is doing a good job of closing over this wound.

Raphael · « **Reply #3 on:** June 04, 2006, 02:55:19 am »

I'd say it's just a tad west of south west

It must be winter injury, the damage seems to be more top down, there is no reason a root should have quit on me (that I know of) and no trauma to the base of the tree. Given the way temperatures can yoyo back a forth in New England winters I'm kinda suprised I haven't seen a lot more of this.
The idea the the cherry was sitting on an apple stump crossed my mind but I know the grower/wholesale nursery it came from and they stick to true zone compatible species.

Thanks you for the feedback.

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2006, 05:37:23 am »

Raphael, the root could die as a result from planting/transplanting and you may never know it. I think a sign is some dieback in the crown.

A neighbor of mine has a black walnut with the same crack and it's SW also. The thing about walnut is we get winter frost damage because it is out of it's native range here. My cherry tree is also cracked. These local stores bring in stuff from southern Ontario and Quebec where the climate is warmer and expect them to survive.

ohsoloco · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2006, 07:35:19 pm »

There's an ornamental cherry tree next to my parent's driveway with the same type of damage...and it's on the south side of the tree as well. I always assumed it was a frost crack, and you'uns guys just confirmed my suspicion

In the middle of winter the crack actually opens up, and you can see inside the trunk. Can't recally if it passes all the way through or not.

I hope their tree stays healthy, it produces really pretty pink blossoms in the spring

Phorester · « **Reply #6 on:** June 07, 2006, 09:33:36 pm »

Frost crack is physical damage, like breaking off a tree limb or a double trunk splitting. Trees can live a normal lifespan with frost crack as long as a insect or disiease doesn't get into the tree from the hole in the bark.

Pullinchips · « **Reply #7 on:** June 08, 2006, 02:01:35 pm »

I was thinking frost crack from the pic my self. Also thought of lightning damage, but from the location i beleive freezing is the culprit. Also if the tree is only 8-15yrs old i doubt it is a lightnig rod yet unless it is near a taller tree that would attract the lightnig then it bounced to the smaller tree or came back up the tree from out of the ground.

-Nate

ohsoloco · « **Reply #8 on:** June 08, 2006, 05:33:02 pm »

Is there anything you can or should use to "seal" damage of this kind to help prevent disease

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #9 on:** June 08, 2006, 07:16:58 pm »

I don't know of any successful treatment off hand. Maybe someone has a remedy to offer. I think I've seen even native trees on rare occassion with this, but I think it's in ridge tops more often.

Raphael · « **Reply #10 on:** June 08, 2006, 07:42:17 pm »

Quote from: ohsoloco on June 08, 2006, 05:33:02 pm

Is there anything you can or should use to "seal" damage of this kind to help prevent disease

You can use a pruning sealer (aka: tree paint), however the conventional wisdom on this has changed and it's no longer recommended. The tree can heal much faster and stronger without pruning sealer. There is also "tree tape" (despite the name it isn't adhesive) which can be wrapped around the trunk to protect it but many trees don't take to kindly to being wrapped for any length of time.
I'll just keep an eye on it and hope that if a disease begins to develop it's something I can treat. Other than the crack it's a very healthy tree and healing well.

ohsoloco · « **Reply #11 on:** June 08, 2006, 07:45:11 pm »

I've also hear that it's not really recommended to use pruning sealer anymore. Not really sure what you could actually use on something like that. It closes up fine in the warm weather, but in the winter it opens right back up $:-\$

Phorester · « **Reply #12 on:** June 09, 2006, 08:13:36 pm »

You have a viable concern, but no, there is nothing you can do to help seal the tree. Other posters have talked about the problems of tree sealers. This a case where there are no good options to choose from. The best you can do is leave it to heal on its own.

It might help if you put up a barrier to the sun each winter on that side of the tree. Anything to block the sun from hitting the tree, like burlap, a sheet, anything. Don't wrap it around the tree (holds mositure against the tree) or certainly don't nail it to the tree. Put it a couple inches in front of the tree on two stakes driven in the ground. Blocking the sun should prevent or at least lessen future freezing and thawing cycles on this section of the tree which caused the problem in the first place.

But don't apply anything directly to the tree itself.

Raphael · « **Reply #13 on:** June 09, 2006, 09:46:33 pm »

That's a real good idea...

Just a tall version of the staked burlap wind breaks used to protect Rhododendron should do the trick.

ohsoloco · « **Reply #14 on:** June 10, 2006, 08:52:22 am »

Excellent idea

The damage in the trunk is only a few feet off the ground, and I think my dad has some burlap lying around the house.

ohsoloco · « **Reply #15 on:** June 18, 2006, 02:01:04 pm »

This is a picture of an oak tree that is in my woodlot. I always wondered if this damage was from frost crack as well, or if it was from the two trunks growing together

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #16 on:** June 18, 2006, 02:17:23 pm »

Stress crack from the two stems rocking in the wind. Might even get some rainfall in the crotch during a winter mild spell, that later freezes?

Phorester · « **Reply #17 on:** June 26, 2006, 08:12:35 pm »

I'd go with Donk on this one. It's not from the trunks trying to grow together so much as wind stress on this weak union of the two trunks that kept them from joining for many years.

Have these trees completely grown together, or is there still an unhealed crack between them?

ohsoloco · « **Reply #18 on:** June 27, 2006, 09:23:07 am »

I'm pretty sure it's completely grown over, but I'd have to wander up into the woods to be certain.

Mike_Barcaskey · « **Reply #19 on:** June 27, 2006, 09:42:03 am »

cold/frost can only worsen a condition that already exists, it does not cause cracks. Like Donkey said, root or branch death, limb stress, etc
read Shigo's "A New Tree Biology"

The only reason to "paint" pruning cuts (according to current wisdom) is when pruning oaks or others suspetible to oak wilt, anthacnose, during high transmission periods.

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Author Topic: Can you identify the cause of this damage? (Read 1563 times)