big miter/mitre box? :)

[FrankLad]

In cutting some 4x6 braces for my dad's shed recently (see "pumpshed" thread), I've been trying different techniques for keeping the cut straight with a handsaw.  One method involved using a speed-square to keep the blade of the saw perpindicular with the timber.  I've gotten straight cuts for the most part but I have been wondering about ways to get the job done faster, as I plan to do other projects like this in the future.

When I say get the job faster, I don't mean by using a big chop-saw because I really like using a handsaw...I would just like to line the saw up against a guide or something and cut without having to worry about blade travel.

I've thought of building a type of miter box for doing 45° cuts and the like but I wanted to see if you guys know of an existing setup for this.  The only ones I've ever seen are for cutting small pieces like molding.

Thanks for your help!

[Don P]

I use a power saw but the principle is similar.
We needed to cut 35 degree angles on each end of 30 logs a couple of weeks ago. Each length was different but they all had to be pretty much right on. It took 120 cuts to do the job so a jig was a no brainer.

I took a good 2x10 and laid it flat across the horses. along the back edge I stood up and secured from below a 2x8 (whatever height you need). I put my piece to be cut on the 2x10, against the backstop 2x8, and stood up a pair of opposed cedar shims in front of it. Then I put another 2x8 on edge in front of that and screwed it into place from underneath the 2x10. That was a longwinded way to say I built a trough  .

On top I laid a piece of plywood across, pulled everything tight, and screwed the lid on the trough. I then laid out my angles, in my case I screwed a strip to guide the saw. I did a left and right. I then sawed through the jig, this cut could guide your handsaw. 

Remember the shims? They have cutouts in the ply to access and pull them. After cutting the log the shims are pulled, the next victim is slid in and the shims are tightened again forcing the timber against the backstop. Alignment in my case was through the kerf to the stopped side. Yours would only be good till you need to step in and make a fresh set.

[Jim_Rogers]

FrankLad:
I guess a lot of it has to do with what type of stock you're working with.
Is it planed on all four sides or is it rough?
If it's rough stock you have to be able to cut your 45° angles correctly to the layout face of the brace.
If your stock is planed then you can use either face as long as you cut it to the layout line.
One customer of mine who planed his own hardwood braces cut all of his on his table saw using a sliding miter gauge. He cut his 45° angles and shoulders and removed the stock to create the tenon with a dado head on his saw.
We usually cut brace shoulders with a skil saw and then pare to the line, if using power tools.
If we're using hand tools again we cut near the knife scored line and then pare to the line with a chisel. This insures that the cut is correct.

Jim Rogers

[FrankLad]

Mr. Don:  That is pretty interesting!  Do you happen to have a picture of this setup you can share?

Mr. Jim: With regards to the layout face and rough-cut timber, those are certainly some key points to remember!  Thank you!

I must be honest and say that I have been taking a more simplistic approach...basically checking a side for straightness and using it as the "reference".

[Don P]

Frank,
Here's a shot of the jig I was describing. I'll put a pic of the gable wall it was cutting in a thread titled Built up Roof.



I had another kinda similar jig floating around the job, I used it to cut the 45* flares in the round face of the logs to let a switchplate sit flat. I needed a flat reference plane to work from, so the jig.




Hope you can see something you can brainstorm from.

[FrankLad]

Ooookaaay..........

That does give me some ideas, Mr. Don P.  Thank you very much.

Now I'll go check out the roof thread.