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Author Topic: skip tooth  (Read 1472 times)

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Offline parrisw

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skip tooth
« on: March 16, 2006, 12:24:15 am »
Whats the advantage of running a skip tooth chain, I have a 288xp husky with a 28" bar at the moment, with a standard low kick chain, non skip.  Will it cut better faster with a skip tooth?

Thanks

Will

Online Ianab

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2006, 12:58:24 am »
Skip tooth chains come into their own when you are running a really long bar.
They give you less teeth in the cut, so you dont need as much power, and have more space to clear the chips produced from by the long cut.
Your saw and bar combo is pretty sensible, I dont think skip chain would give you any advantage.
If you wanted to hang a much longer bar off your saw, then skip chain would be the way to go.

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson 8" WPF with Stihl 090 powerhead, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2006, 01:56:15 am »
Thanks, I also have a Larger bar for it, a 37" and non skip chain, although I don't use it very often, most things I cut the 28" is just fine.

Thanks

Will

Offline barbender

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2006, 09:25:41 am »
  From what I've read, any bar 24" or longer will benefit from a skip tooth chain. Is your chain acually safety chain or does it just have bumper drive links? If you go to skip chain from a safety chain you better be ready to cut some wood  :).  I actually picked up a 24" skip for my 2171 that I'll be using for the first time today, I'll let you know how it cuts.
I just want to run my mill

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2006, 10:07:45 am »
Ya let me know, I really dont know excatly what chain I got, the guy just made it up for me.  I ve never really bothered to learn much about saws before, until I got my newer saw.  So far its impressive how it is right now.  POWER compared to my old one. ;D ;D ;D

Offline leweee

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2006, 01:00:56 pm »
Will..... check out this chain
                                            http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/chain/72LG_FB_0403.pdf

it will make that walkerized Husky 288xp sit up & take notice :o


Full comp. will cut faster than skip if you have the power(walkerized)  ;D

wear your PPE & Play Safe & have Fun :)
just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

Offline fishhuntcutwood

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2006, 01:29:49 pm »
I run full skip on most of my stuff, most of the time.  I usually run 24"+.  Full skip just makes sense for all the reasons Ian mentioned.  He's spot on.

And yeah, if you're running safety chain, ditch it and get full skip or full comp, it doesn't matter, you'll be cuttig circles around your old self!

Jeff
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Offline Alta

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2006, 05:15:56 pm »
My advice would be to buy a loop and do your own side by side comparison - its cheap, you'll have another spare chain, and you'll find out how skip tooth really cuts. Then post your results here   ;D

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2006, 12:44:10 am »
Cool thanks guys, the guys I cut with all the time are already annoyed at me cause I can outcut them 2:1 since I got this walkerized 288xp, now they will be really annoyed when I outcut them 3 or 4:1 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2006, 12:48:10 am »
"leweee" thanks for that link, so if I tell, the guy at the shop I want a oregon chain 73LG/JG thats all I need to know??  its 3/8 .o58 chain I need.

Thanks 

Will

Offline leweee

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2006, 11:23:12 am »
Will.... 73LG is the( standard) or full comp. version
           73JG is the (full skip)version

I would try the 73LG on the 28" bar & 73JG on the 37". ;D
just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

Offline rebocardo

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2006, 08:06:00 pm »
I notice a big difference in oak with full skip, so all my 28" chain is either full skip or semi-skip. I usually get the 30RCS from Baileys, though I try other stuff too.

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2006, 11:50:23 pm »
So the 73lg is non skip version??  or semi skip.  Sorry for the dumb questions

Offline leweee

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2006, 01:30:17 pm »
Will.... here is a link that might help

BTW there are no dumb Questions ;D

http://www.madsens1.com/Oregon2.htm

yes 73LG is standard or full compliment.....cutter , tie strap, cutter, tie strap, etc.
      73JP is full skip.....cutter ,2 tie straps, cutter, 2 tie straps, etc.

Oregon chain loop# 73LG92E for your 28" bar.
(super guard)Tm 3/8 pitch, full comp., 92 drive links, .058 gauge.

Oregon chain loop# 73JG119E for your 37" bar
(super gaurd)Tm 3/8 pitch, full skip, 119 drive links, .058 gauge,

Hope that helps ;D
just another beaver with a chainsaw &  it's never so bad that it couldn't get worse.

Offline parrisw

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2006, 10:53:53 pm »
Yes that helps immensly.  Thanks allot.

Will

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2006, 09:58:17 am »
  I finally got to run my Jred 2171 with a 24" bar and skip chain (Oregon 73JP)  I was using it cutting aspen on the landing, and it cut really nice, probably a little faster than full comp, and it is a lot faster to sharpen since there aren't as many teeth. I'm happy with it.
I just want to run my mill

Offline SawTroll

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #16 on: March 29, 2006, 06:18:50 am »
... And yeah, if you're running safety chain, ditch it and get full skip or full comp, it doesn't matter, you'll be cuttig circles around your old self!
...
What different people refer to as "safety" chain varies a lot.

The ones that should be ditched are only those with bumper tie straps between the cutters.

The ones with just a small ramp on the driver, directly in front of the raker, (Oregon LP, BP, VP etc - and probably also Stihl RSC3) are usually fully servicable chains (I don't quite know about the Carlton/WP variants, as both the ramps and the rakers look larger to me than on the Oregons). The combined size of the ramps and rakers are not much larger than the rakers alone on chains like LG and RS/RSC.
Some of them may even cut better than their "non-safety" counterparts  when bore cutting, because the rakers themselves are smaller and doesn't hit the wood in the same way at the nose of the bar..... 
Firewood saws: Jonsereds Raket 621 (1970), Husky 353G, Stihl MS361W, Husky 372xpg, New Edition Husky 339xp, Dolmar PS5100SH, New Edition Husky 346xpg, Jonsered 2153WH, Husky 560xpg.

Offline snowman

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #17 on: March 29, 2006, 06:35:58 am »
Like anything theres a tradeoff, skip tooth is far superior in clean wood, falling and bucking.On the landing, I prefer full comp, yes its slower to sharpen but on the other hand you can run full comp duller and still cut, skip tooth needs to stay SHARP to do its thing.

Offline TexasTimbers

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #18 on: March 29, 2006, 06:43:33 am »
I ran a full skip (Oregon) and a full comp (Carlton) cutting the osage with a 32" bar on a 372XP and the full comp seemed to do much better. Now you are going to ask me specifics about the chain and I don't know them off hand. The full skip has a "72" stamped on it. There is alot to learn about chain it seems.  :P  :P  :P
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Offline sawguy21

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Re: skip tooth
« Reply #19 on: March 29, 2006, 10:40:00 am »
The 72 just means 3/8 pitch .050 guage.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

 


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