PumpShed Project

[FrankLad]

Hey guys!

My dad and I recently started work on a shed to replace the pumpshed they lost in the hurricane.

We're using cypress timbers and Timberlinx as the primary connectors.

First, this is overkill for this kind of shed, but it's a proving-ground before starting work on my house;  we're mainly doing it for the experience.

Here are the tools we're using:

- Sorby chisels
- Homemade beech mallet
- Japanese handsaw (It's nice to cut on the pull-stroke.    )
- Timberlinx drilling jig, insertion tool, & positioning tools
- Dewalt DW130 drill  w/   7/8" single-spur auger bit

We've been rained out a couple of times but we recently got a lot of hours in on a pretty, dry Saturday.

So far, the slab has been poured and the bolts were wet-anchored (Timberlinx half-connector threads over them).  Also, three of the six posts (8x8") have been cut and drilled.

There's no fancy joinery here.  For the tenons, we remove 1" from the width and depth - and the mortise is cut to accommodate that.  Holes are drilled for the Timberlinx connector and pins.

(We realized early-on that it's best to measure the center-marks and drill the holes before cutting the tenons.  Learning by experience.  )

I'll tell you....it's a nice feeling being outside on a beautiful, sunny day with a nice breeze...carving away at a big timber.  Of course, you guys already knew that. 

Ok - just wanted to share that with you fellers.  I'll get some pictures next weekend when we work on it some more.

[TexasTimbers]

Hey that sounds like the way we started - a pumphouse/storage shed. Then it morphed into a covered drying shed which isn't done yet either - only because it hasn't been started yet.

I don't understand your post though. If you are using Timberlinx why are you cutting mortise and tenons? Or do you mean you're using a mixture of T'linx and traditinal joinery?

POST SOME PICTURES!!!
                                         

[FrankLad]

kevjay: If you are using Timberlinx why are you cutting mortise and tenons? Or do you mean you're using a mixture of T'linx and traditinal joinery?

When planning this, we assumed that a wood-to-wood connection of some type was still required, but I spoke with Mike Preston at Timberlinx and he said that their first test building had no wood cut.  It was just a Timberlinx connector holding everything together.  He said that was 5 years ago and it has been standing just fine.

You are correct - I don't think any wood cutting is required and I am convinced that it would hold up fine with just the Timberlinx - but I do feel better about having some extra connection in there, at least on certain areas.  Also, it's fun to cut the M&Ts. 


This is just for illustrative purposes.  There are no areas where the wood meets this way.  Mostly you'll have a vertical/post and horizontal/beam meeting perpindicularly.

There are parts where we will likely not use wood cuts.  (The top plate for instance would be a good candidate for this.)

[TexasTimbers]

I see. Well, according to the tests, the T'linx is stronger than the  mortise and tenon anyway. I'd skip the m & t and stick with the pipe only.
Of course I am cutting one bent all m & t.
Thanks for the diagram. Keep us posted eh?

[FrankLad]

The idea of only drilling holes and using the pipe connector is appealing.  Things would go a lot faster.  I reckon we could do the rest of it that way.

I was thinking about it and it does make sense that it would work just as well with the pipe.

Hrm....

[FrankLad]

As promised, here are some pictures:

http://www.frankladner.com/shedproject/

[TexasTimbers]

Frank, great work!

I do like the way you housed the joints. Not sure it's necessary and after they shrink don't know if they'll even be involved but it sure doesn't hurt anything.

Keep those pictures coming - we love 'em.

[FrankLad]

Thank you, kevjay!

As we're doing this, my wife and I are looking at various house plans (as mentioned previously, we want our next home to be a timberframe).

Anyhow, I am certainly intimidated by the idea of doing the whole frame myself, even if I am using Timberlinx.  So right now we are trying to see what options we have as far as getting someone in that could take charge of the project and also allow me to work with them.  I'd like to put as much sweat-equity into it as possible but I don't know if there are any outfits that do these kinds of deals.  Seems like you either have a delivered kit (Yankee Barn, for instance) or the folks come and put the frame up for you (Goshen, Timberpeg, etc.).

Through this forum I became familiar with Joey Lowe (also, Mike Preston at Timberlinx mentioned him) who is in Gilmer, Texas and most likely the closest to me.  Chip Swanson was also recommended but he is way up in Vermont.

Joey Lowe seems to be a busy man.  I spoke with him on the phone after Hurricane Katrina when he was on his way to New Orleans but I haven't been able to get in touch since.

If you guys know of a timberframer not too far from southern Mississippi, I'd really be interested in seeing if we could work something out.

[TexasTimbers]

Yes I lost touch with Joey too. Busy busy busy.

You might call Tim Chauvin in Nachadoches. He owns Red Suspenders Timber Framing. I spoken with him sevearl times. Nice fella. Busy too, but you might give him a call. HE's well-established and I do believe he said he will work with someone on different levels of participation, but I can't speak for him so give him a buzz.

Red Suspender's Timber Framing

On an unrelated note, you'll find an option to buy his CD on his website which, being a fellow musician I couldn't resist. Not bad I must say. Not bad at all!

[FrankLad]

kevjay:

I just sent Tim an email.  Thank you very much for the recommendation!

Thanks for mentioning the CD.  Listening to the tracks now here: http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/chauvin

[Raphael]

  Chris Koehn (who ran the kids workshop at last years eastern conference) would be my first choice for a project like your's.  He's completely mobile these days (sold the house and bought an Airstream) and has all the tools that are too expensive to buy for a single project (chain mortiser, beam saw, etc.).
  As I understand things I can't post his phone number or email address here in the open forum but if you are interested send me a message and I'll pass them along to you.

  Another place to look for an itinerate timber framer or a company that might be willing to cut with you is the Timber Frame Business Council, they maintain a searchable database: http://www.timberframe.org/
  I don't like the attitude of some of their members but most are good people.

[Don P]

Nice Pics Frank 

I'm sure it won't make a difference on the wall posts on the pumpshed but I wonder if the half lap girt joint should be something else on a house. I was thinking about if the sidewall gets pushed on by alot of wind it might be stronger if they were housed in like your other joints  .

That drilling jig looks like the cat's whiskers. How well is it working, how much did it cost?

[FrankLad]

Raphael: As I understand things I can't post his phone number or email address here in the open forum but if you are interested send me a message and I'll pass them along to you

Raphael, I just sent you an email!  Thank you!

DonP: I'm sure it won't make a difference on the wall posts on the pumpshed but I wonder if the half lap girt joint should be something else on a house.

In the case of this shed, we are basing it mostly on the shed from Sobon's book....but as far as a larger building, I think you are correct with using a different type of joint around the girts.

DonP: That drilling jig looks like the cat's whiskers. How well is it working, how much did it cost?

I personally wouldn't even consider drilling the holes without that jig, as it keeps the holes plumb/perpindicular and aligns the pipe connector and pins perfectly.  It's very simple to adjust and once it's set you can basically leave it that way on same-dimension timbers (8x8 in our case).  It costs $210.00 from Timberlinx.

[Raphael]

DonP: That drilling jig looks like the cat's whiskers. How well is it working, how much did it cost?

I personally wouldn't even consider drilling the holes without that jig, as it keeps the holes plumb/perpindicular and aligns the pipe connector and pins perfectly.  It's very simple to adjust and once it's set you can basically leave it that way on same-dimension timbers (8x8 in our case).  It costs $210.00 from Timberlinx.

How much do the connectors cost?

[Brad_S.]

This thread has me intrigued about Timberlinx and I was wondering about cost too. Their website seems to be down.

[Nova]

Website is back.  States that prices run from $20 - 40 USD per unit depending on the connector and the volume purchased with discounts starting after 15 or 20 units depending on the connector and a larger discount after 60 units.

[Brad_S.]

Thanks Nova.
I still can't access their site. Am I alone in not being able to connect with them?
http://www.timberlinx.com/

[Raphael]

  I was able to connect last night but the data transfer rates were so slow I gave up.  I had the same problem this morning but it was my dialup connection (everything was slow).  After 4 or 5  attempts I've got a decent connection and Timberlinx is loading fine, so no telling what was happening last night...

[Brad_S.]

Thanks Raphael,
Must be some sort of issue with my computer.

[FrankLad]

I checked just now and Timberlinx.com was down.  I gave Neil a call and he said he was informed this morning.  They are working to figure out what the problem is.

Anyhow, he said to give you guys the toll-free number and for anyone with any questions to call.  Here it is: 877 900-3111

Neil and Mike are super-nice guys!