"Peterson blade bounce?"

[jpgreen]

Nice looking setup thar Ken.. 

[getoverit]

Thanks 

I have figured out that it is a lot easier to move the logs than move the mill, so I cut some 4X6 pine that extends out past the edge of the rails, then I just drag the logs onto the 4x6's and roll them into place for milling. It is hard to tell in the pictures, but the sawdust pile got pretty deep before I dug it out and put the sawdust in the chicken pen. I think I'm going to move the mill to a spot with more shade and better room soon, keeping in mind that I can just drag the logs over to the mill with the tractor. You have to raise the rails on the mill in order to get to the top of the next log anyway, and rolling the logs under the rails is easy enough to do with the LogRite Peavy's. Now when jpgreen's log dogs get here, I wont even have to worry about the log moving any more So far, that has been my only problem.... logs moving when I get down to the last couple of inches of the log... it wont happen soon !!

While I was typing this post, I looked out the window and saw that I had some helpers out there with the sawdust... just thought you might like to see the free sawdust spreading help I got?






That is a flock of turkeys, in case you dont recognize them... the gobbler is HUGE !

[jpgreen]

I've been wanting a turkey now for a long time.  The coyotes keep beatin' me to the punch Ken.

Your new pups will be there tomorrow..   

[TinMan]

Thanks for all the input guys

Nice to meet you Jeff, thanks for the Ideas. The bounce seemed to occur anywhere in the log, and got worse as the day went on. Change speeds didnt help, it did it when I went slow or fast. In fact if I pulled into the log pretty hard and kept on it, it didnt seem as bad. After I sharpened it seemed worse. DanG, what you said about the blade pulling down in the deep cut makes the most sense to me as the problem....I think Im gonna need that little device....

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it

Tracy

[Jeff Meyer]

Well, sorry I couldn't be more help.  Let me know how it goes.

Thanks

Jeff

[arnold]

check a number of things with the blade.
1 side clearance on the teeth
2  The difference between plate thickness and kerf thickness.
Check with the peterson guys what their recomendations would be.
3 Blade tension or the lack of it will also not help.
Does the bounce still happen if you do the Vert. 1st and the horozontal last ?

[TinMan]

Arnold

The mill is brand new only four hours on the meter and I tried both blades, they both did the annoying bounce.

Tracy

[Troy]

Tracy,

Do you have a good blade pattern on the vertical face of the log after you make a full pass.  My lean in was out quite a bit when I first set it up and was causing my initail blade bounce problem.  Note to self... don't try to set blade adjustments on log with lots of tension.  Second time was the charm.  I still have occasional problems, but mostly when I come across knots and reaction wood.

Troy

[crtreedude]

Embarrased newbies... (Harold and I) 

We spent a day trying to figure out what was wrong with ours - and then found out that the housing wasn't setting completely on the track.

Check everything to make sure it is level, and that the boards that you are removed are square.

[NZJake]

Gidday All, just to let you know 6 of those anti-vibe devices will be leaving the factory today, heading for Captain as inventory.
 
Also, the re-tipping jigs price has been finalised and shipping details are now available, 10 of them will be heading to Captain within the next week, ring through for further information on these units.
 
On my part, I will now be continually updating the sponsers section with week to week improvements in design toward our sawmills. Eg, new riving knife designs, anti-vibe devices etc. etc. So check out this area often as there will be many improvements for your interest.

[Troy]

Hey Captain -  I'll take one anti-vibe devicey if it's not too pricey.

[Fla._Deadheader]

 Riving knife !!!!!!!!!  That's what's missing on my mill.    Bolt holes are stripped 

[Fla._Deadheader]

 Also, regarding the "bounce". We were sawing 20' hardwood, REAL hard hardwood. When we experienced the bounce Fred was talking about, I had the guys check the blocking under the tracks. Sure enough, the tracks were actually moving up and down. You state the bounce gets worse as the day progresses. Seems like your center track blocking could be getting pressed into the ground, and you THINK it is solid. Might try jumping up and down a little on the center of each track or track support. We have the WPF model, so the track stays on the ground. Our cross supports to hold the tracks were at the very ends of the track, because the logs were way to big and heavy to move to bunks.

[crtreedude]

Nah, Harold, that wasn't hard - that was just Ojoche.

Wait till you gnaw into Corteza. Everything is relative my friend. 

I think the amount of Corteza to cut on Monte Cristo is 4 to 5 thousand BF. 

[Captain]

OK guys,  tips to minimize blade bounce assuming all other adjustments are correct....

1) ATS owners...use the middle track supports when your end frames are over 10-12 feet apart.  The track sections will bounce in deep vertical cuts otherwise.  WPF owners, if you have track bounce (less likely) make sure your track is supported appropriately...blocking is fine under the low track.  If you are cutting very large logs that require long unsupported sections of high track, you may want to consider another high track support.

2)  Wide frame mills (all ATS and large frame WPF) can get a bounce in the mill frame when the center unit is in the middle of the frame...this is what the device in Jake pics is for.  To prevent this (if possible) position the log as close to the right side track as possible, to prevent the center unit from being in the middle of the frame.   This becomes problematic when trying to double cut, as the log needs to be more centered. 

Have fun be safe and post more questions!!

Captain