Author Topic: Pen and Pencil Turning (Read 6899 times)

Fla._Deadheader · « **on:** March 07, 2006, 04:40:35 pm »

Need all necessary info, machine, accessories, video, etc., etc.

Texas Ranger · « **Reply #1 on:** March 07, 2006, 04:47:48 pm »

Rockler and Grizzly got it all.

Den Socling · « **Reply #2 on:** March 07, 2006, 05:55:53 pm »

short and sweet

stumpy · « **Reply #3 on:** March 07, 2006, 06:04:48 pm »

I started making pens just before Christmas and found a DVD from Penn State industries was very helpful. They were offering it free at the time. You can check their website. If it's no longer free, drop me a note and I can send you mine to watch. Making the pen is the easy part. Finding and applying the best finish is another story. I have tried a couple different finishes and have not hit on one that I'm happy with.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #4 on:** March 07, 2006, 06:54:29 pm »

Checked out the Lathe. What kinda tools is needed ?? Thanks for the responses

shopteacher · « **Reply #5 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:21:09 pm »

You'se needs 2 big vacuum pumps ta make them pens with.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:30:35 pm »

I'm trying to figure a way to get them pumps down here and on to CR.

Gotta help Ed do some mounting of Sand Blowers on a boat and then we have a sawing job.

stumpy · « **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2006, 07:34:37 pm »

I use the following. Pen press (for assembling the pens), pen mill ( to square the blanks), drilling vice (to hold the blanks centered for drilling), a good turning tool. I don't know the term for it, but it is half round at the end.
Some will say you don't have to buy all those things, but I chose to because it makes it easier for me as I am not a craftsman by any means.

Tom · « **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2006, 08:12:10 pm »

Perhaps this will help to give you an idea of tools.
It isn't unusual, especially for small or strange-shaped
designs for a turner to make his own tools. Most
anthing that will make a cutting edge will work if
it is the shape desired.

metalspinner · « **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2006, 10:20:05 pm »

A 1/2" spindle gouge and a parting tool will make any pen kit you want. I use the drill press to push the parts together ( off, of course). Pen mill is a must-have item. A simple fence on the drill press and a clamp will drill nice straight holes for you.
Well... here's a list:
Lathe, 1/2" spindle gouge, 1/8" parting tool, drill press, mandrel, bushings for selected kit, drill bit for selected kit, pen mill, extra tubes, 5 minute epoxy to glue tubes, Thick and thin CA glue for use in turning as needed, sand paper through 400 grit (Norton 3X is my favorate), 0000 steel wool to follow up sanding, Behlen's friction finish, wood, and 15 minutes.

brdmkr · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2006, 04:05:32 pm »

Grizzly used to sell a kit that would let you make pens with a router. You mounted the blank between 2 wheels and rolled the wheels over a router with a half-inch straight bit. I never have made pens, but thought this might work pretty well for me as I am all thumbs

Tom · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2006, 04:29:55 pm »

You gett'em too close to that router bit and it'll take care of that for you.

katie-did · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2006, 05:06:22 pm »

Hey DH
    I have been turning pens for about a year know. I will tell you what I do it may not be the right way but it works and my customers are really happy with them.
I by most of my stuff from Penn State or The Woodturners Catalog they are both on the web. The Woodturners Catalog is the cheapest on a lot of the pen kits that I by and they are the same as the rest so why pay the extra money.
   I use a cheap mini lathe that I bought at a box store ($88), I have a pen turning set of tools but I use a 1/2" wood chisel (this is the nonprofessional tool but I like it and it works (easy to sharpen), I also use the parting tool on any pen that has a band on it, Hot Stuff Super-T for the glue (it is a super glue type really fast drying and I have no patience, it also works great to glue little knots and voids on the outside of the pen finishes good), I also use Excel Glue for spalted woods and porous woods because it expands to fill the voids, I use the box set of sand paper it has 150, 240, 320 & 400 grit sand paper then I clean it with 000 steel wool, on darker woods I use EEE Ultra Shine it polishes the wood before you finish it, I also have tried several finishes and the one I like is Shellwax Cream it is easy to put on and holds GREAT (apply 3 coats steel wool between coat 1 and 2), I bought a pen press putting then together with a gripper clap is not the way!!!! I just use a wood screw clamp to drill my blanks and a band saw to do any cutting, universal barrel trimmer, oh and of course you need your mandrel right for your lathe and bushings and drill bit(s) for the type of pens you are turning (if you are going to be turning alot of one kind I would suggest the you buy a second set of bushings. I think that is all if you have anymore questions I will be happy to answer what I can.
   Here are picture of some of the ones that I have done. (Made 80 for Christmas just burn out on it right now and have a lot more to do)

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #13 on:** March 08, 2006, 06:03:27 pm »

Katie-did, and others, really appreciate all the info.

Are there refills for the ballpoints, or, is this a 1 shot pen ??

metalspinner · « **Reply #14 on:** March 08, 2006, 07:02:27 pm »

Standard refills from anywhere will work.

stumpy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 10, 2006, 06:57:27 pm »

On Woodweb.com (I'm so ashamed!!!) in the classified section, someone is selling a mini lathe and all the pen turning stuff. I don't know how much, but I thought I'd let ya know.

Radar67 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2006, 08:53:20 pm »

From the price he quoted, you could go out and buy new for less IMO. I've been checking around and the JET lathe with accessories comes out less than 650.

Stew

stumpy · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:40:30 pm »

As I said, I didn't know what he was asking for it. I never called or email'ed. I just thought I'd pass it on cause maybe it would help.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:51:03 pm »

I checked it out and appreciate the heads-up, Stumpy. Shipping puts it out of my reach.

Daren · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2006, 10:22:51 pm »

I shot him an e-mail too just for kicks (he did respond fast), an off brand lathe and a "good supply" of cherry and walnut blanks. That is what I use for kindling. You can buy a nice machine and cutting tools for less that $200, I think. He is including a duplicator, I don't know what a little one costs, but a 40" with a 3" depth is $100. He has some finishing products. I am not a pen turner, but for what he had there is money better spent, IMO.

Daren · « **Reply #20 on:** April 05, 2006, 12:26:57 pm »

This post got me thinking about a mini lathe, so I bought one. I didn't need it for pens, but had wanted to try doll house furniture. I have 2 big lathes, they aren't near as much fun as the little one. I would suggest everyone needs a mini lathe, they are a ball. Here is a project from wood from the kindling box. A curly maple bowl setting on a walnut trestle table. (with a quarter for scale)

woodsteach · « **Reply #21 on:** April 06, 2006, 01:52:54 pm »

WOW! Daren that is small! From what my eyes are able to see it looks like someone will have a very nice doll house!

Paul

Daren · « **Reply #22 on:** April 06, 2006, 10:03:41 pm »

That little lathe "turned" out to be alot of fun, I can't quit playing with it even when I should be doing other things. The legs on the round maple table are a replica 1/12 of a table I saw in a ladies house, the picture doesn't show it but they are cool, finely turned. I have turned my fair share of bowls, I would have to say the timble size are alot better when they fly off the lathe and hit you in the head that an 8 lb chunk of wet sweet gum

I made some of my own turning tools with the steel from a busted bandmill blade to help with the small stuff. To think, this wood came out of the kindling box beside the shop woodstove. Beats sawing ties and trying to make margins, and not as hard on the back for sure.

Tom · « **Reply #23 on:** April 06, 2006, 10:51:02 pm »

...............and in the right market they are worth big bucks.

Daren · « **Reply #24 on:** April 07, 2006, 07:17:47 am »

Quote from: Tom on April 06, 2006, 10:51:02 pm

...............and in the right market they are worth big bucks.

I found that out. I stumbled across a webring for mini furniture builders and there was several things for sale WOW. They are asking $50+ for little tables, one was $100. Their stuff is better constructed that mine though, they mortice and tenon 1/12 scale furniture... my stuff in the picture is just stuck together with some glue, I was just playing around 'cause it was POURING rain yesterday.

Patty · « **Reply #25 on:** April 12, 2006, 06:33:01 pm »

Now that is way cool Daren. After Norm gets all my big power tools in order

I plan to get one of those mini-lathes. What brand did you buy?

Daren · « **Reply #26 on:** April 13, 2006, 06:04:41 am »

Patty, I bought a JET. I think it is the old model pen lathe from what I read, I think it is discontinued. $100 new in the box on e-bay. I am sure there are nicer ones, but for playing around this one suits me fine.

Patty · « **Reply #27 on:** April 13, 2006, 09:41:54 am »

Daren, is this the model you bought? JET 708329 Mini Pen Lathe I also am looking at this mdel:JET-1014 MINI LATHE

Does anyone have experience with these models?

Burlkraft · « **Reply #28 on:** April 13, 2006, 10:54:10 am »

I've used them and they are a DanG nice small lathe.

For the money, I don't think there is a better buy

Daren · « **Reply #29 on:** April 13, 2006, 12:26:29 pm »

Mine is a JPL-358. Just a pen lathe, not a true mini lathe. It is a smooth running little dude. If I knew I would use it alot I would have bought a bigger one, maybe. For playing around at the workbench when I don't want to do any heavy lifting it is fine.

Radar67 · « **Reply #30 on:** April 14, 2006, 04:04:06 pm »

I've got that model lathe, it just doesn't have the speed control (speed adjusted manually on mine). It is definitely one of the best tools I have owned. It's got plenty of weight, plenty of power, and is the perfect size for small projects.

Stew

Patty · « **Reply #31 on:** April 16, 2006, 05:38:26 pm »

Ok I found a Jet minilathe with the variable speed model 1014VS. I am going to order it this afternoon. Daren inspired me to go ahead and take the plunge.

I have been saving back bits and pieces of wood that I thought were just too pretty to toss and am really looking forward to getting started.

I normally make homemade jam to give away to my good customers, and I will continue to do so for awhile. Norm thought a pen set would be a nice give away. Hopefully by Christmas Time I will be good enough with the new lathe to try this new gift idea.

9shooter · « **Reply #32 on:** April 16, 2006, 11:38:38 pm »

Here are a few sources; Craft supplies USA, Arizona Silhouette, Pens of color, woodturningz.com, Yordon pens, wooden wonders home, berea hard woods co. The latter manufactures pen kits and has some of the best quality. Some of their kits run $150. You can find tutorials and pen turning info @ penturners.org. If you think you might get the disease bad, I would recommend getting the better quality mandrels and trimmers. Good luck!

Patty · « **Reply #33 on:** April 19, 2006, 06:39:49 pm »

The lathe and tool that Charlie suggested both arrived today.

WOW

Two rules I have already learned:

1) The first piece of wood you try to turn probably shouldn't be white oak. Cherry worked much better.

2) Don't wear a low-neck cut shirt....guess where all the chips fly!

Tomorrow is a turtleneck and maybe another piece of cherry. This tool is the coolest thing I've tried for a long time!

We''ll be turning now!

Daren · « **Reply #34 on:** April 19, 2006, 07:59:37 pm »

Quote from: Patty on April 19, 2006, 06:39:49 pm

2) Don't wear a low-neck cut shirt....guess where all the chips fly!

I bet I can guess

. They will fill your shirt pocket too. Have fun.

Daren · « **Reply #35 on:** April 26, 2006, 08:30:12 pm »

Patty, how is it going? My knee hurt today so I played with mine (lathe) again today. I made a little walnut table, that is o.k, but if you can see in the picture there is a cherry turned bowl setting on it that is smaller than a dime.

Here is an oak table and cherry vase. I stuck a little flower in the vase after the picture, pretty cool. The tools you can buy get you started, but I have made many little ones with pieces of busted bandmill blades on the bench grinder.

Daren · « **Reply #36 on:** April 26, 2006, 09:09:12 pm »

AH heck, this picture just looks better. I remember a piece of advice Tom gave me about photos of my work, "Add something interesting, some background, a person..." I am just going from memory, but I took it to heart and he was right. I picked a weed from the yard and stuck in the vase and it (for me) changed the whole picture.

Tom · « **Reply #37 on:** April 26, 2006, 09:25:10 pm »

cool!! I like it.

Patty · « **Reply #38 on:** April 29, 2006, 05:10:30 pm »

I love your tiny little pieces of artwork.

I am reading how-to books still.

I have not gone back and spun the lathe since my first couple of days. Tomorrow we hope to drive to Des Moines and pick-up a couple things at the Woodsmith Store. The book I am reading suggests 4 basic tools that I should get for spindles.

No excuses, but we have been really busy at the day job. We get there at 7:30 and get home around 5 or 5:30. Then there are chores, gardens, etc. Springtime is a hard time to get into the wood shop. I hope to spend a few minutes there everyday this next week. It would be a welcome break away from the phone. I need to just get up and go do it.

OK so these are excuses, and I am really really good at them. $:-\$

wiam · « **Reply #39 on:** April 29, 2006, 10:13:05 pm »

Patty, you do not have all the excuses 'cause I use some.

Will

Tom · « **Reply #40 on:** April 29, 2006, 11:23:10 pm »

Spindle turning!!

Good luck.

I can do it a little as a one-off. To make 4 almost alike would require having God sitting to my left.

I envy folks that can turn spindles.

Norm · « **Reply #41 on:** August 05, 2006, 05:28:52 pm »

My new pen Patty made for me today. Her first attempt.

It's spalted hard maple.

metalspinner · « **Reply #42 on:** August 05, 2006, 10:52:04 pm »

That's a nice pen!. Good job, Patty. The "cigar" style is my favorate. Try making one with deer antler...they are awsome.

Modat22 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 05, 2006, 11:08:04 pm »

Lee Valley has a nice little pen turning starter set, videos and books.

The prettiest pen I ever saw turned was made from a mastadon (sp?) tooth purchased from ebay. The fella made a jig and mounted a right angle grinder to his lathe with a ceramic tile cutting blade to form the tooth into a pen. He also made some fantastic knife handles out of the same prehistoric teeth.

Peace all!
Sam

Patty · « **Reply #44 on:** August 06, 2006, 08:04:05 am »

Thank you so much!

Metalspinner, I thought the antler idea was cool also. In fact, I have the deer antler all ready to spin. I need to get a new collar for my band saw in order to trim the antler to size. The pieces are so tiny it falls through the hole that is around the blade. (I lost the original collar )

On second thought I think I'll just start out with a bigger antler, and then trim it down with the orbital sander or something, rather than wait for the collar. At the rate I go, it could be several months before I get the collar ordered.

Radar67 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 06, 2006, 11:54:20 am »

Patty, the deer antler makes nice pens, but be ready for the rancid smell while turning. My step father was in the shop while I turned one, he told me that you wouldn't have to worry about him turning one because it made him sick to his stomach.

Stew

katie-did · « **Reply #46 on:** August 06, 2006, 12:39:09 pm »

That is AWSOME Patty.

Glad to see that you got your stuff and have had success with it. I am getting ready to start back in again. I just go so over whelmed after all that I did last Christmas I took some time off because it was just no fun anymore. But now I think that I am ready to get started again. The kids go back to school in 2 weeks and I may find some free time then. I have not tried the antler yet but I really want too I just have not been willing to spend the money.
Good luck in your turning.
Katie-Did

jon12345 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 06, 2006, 12:58:56 pm »

Antler dust is nasty, it clogs stuff and smells nasty, Id recommend wearing a respirator (3M~$19.95) or at least a mask when working with it.

Patty · « **Reply #48 on:** August 06, 2006, 04:18:37 pm »

Oh yea...the antler does smell nasty. Yikes!

Katy-did, find some hunters in your area and ask for antlers from the bucks they kill this fall. They should be free. Also, deer shed their antlers every winter...around here it is in late January or early February. You can walk out in the woods and find them on the ground.

Max sawdust · « **Reply #49 on:** August 06, 2006, 08:22:36 pm »

Congratulations on the lathe Patty

Turning is sooooo fun

My lathe is an old ship builders beast with a 4 foot bed, it runs rough but is fun. Had a knob on a closet door that needed replacing this morning so I turned one up in Birch

Just fun to have those shavings fly

Max

katie-did · « **Reply #50 on:** August 07, 2006, 08:22:41 am »

99% of hunters around here mount their antlers so it had to get them. I know all the ones that Part-Timer gets we mount.
It is really hard to find sheds are here because it is hard to get into wood and fields cause the owner will not let you in to walk them. I will get some someday. The only sheds I have ever found have been eaten by our large population of field mice, squirrels, and Chipmunks.
Not really sure that I want to get started in turning them because everyone want them around here and I am not sure that I want to turn that many of them for a nasty as antler is. Some of the wood that I have turned has been nasty enough. I HATE turning Walnut!! The pen/turnings turn out beautiful but the scrubbing I have to give myself after turning to get all the dust out of my pores almost hurts. And some of the exotics smell terrible even thought that respirator. But some are total worth it.

Onthesauk · « **Reply #51 on:** August 07, 2006, 11:34:58 pm »

When I was a kid I cut antlers on a band saw to make buttons for a sweater my Mother knitted for me. I still remember the terrible smell!

Patty · « **Reply #52 on:** August 15, 2006, 07:26:12 am »

I was turning some spalted maple Sunday that had some checking in it. I wanted to make Norm a pepper grinder. With the gouge catching in the cracks, things weren't working out so good.

I am wondering if you can fill those cracks with a glue or something and then finish the job.

metalspinner · « **Reply #53 on:** August 15, 2006, 10:44:30 am »

Patty,
You certainly can. My favorate is CA glue. It comes in several viscosities - thin, thick, and gel. Each has its own application is pen turning. The thin is good for soaking punky type areas. Usually when turning spalted things, I sand through 400 grit then saturate the wood with the thin glue prior to finishing then let dry. Then backup the 220, 320 then 400. This gives the wood a nice hard surface for your friction finish to polish up.

The thick is good for filling in tear out, pores, or little imperfections. Before you complete the shape - let's say 95% complete, fill in the gaps with a touch of thick CA glue, hand sand with the grain diection using 220 grit or so, let dry, then sand with the machine on. Repeat if needed, then turn to completion.

The gel if for really bad things like a major crack down to your tube. Same technique as filling above, but leave more wood for turning at the end. Several applications are better than one heavy. Use a little dust from around your lathe to help fill in the crack.

Be careful with this glue. If you saturate the wood with CA glue, lots of heat will build up while it cures. Always use a dust collecter to pull fumes and dust away from you. Never apply it with the lathe running, it will splatter on you and everything. Apply with the lathe off and rotate by hand to keep it from dripping.

I try not to use the accelorater to much. Sometimes it makes the glue bubble up and your pieces in ruined.

Ask me how I know this.

metalspinner · « **Reply #54 on:** August 15, 2006, 10:50:36 am »

A couple other things...
When you buy your glues, Make sure you pick up the de-activater. And make sure it is always with in reach of your lathe by either hand.

A couple extra tips, or caps, for the bottles are nice to have around , too.

Patty · « **Reply #55 on:** August 15, 2006, 01:39:51 pm »

Thank you! I appreciate the advice. I will let you know how it goes.

thurlow · « **Reply #56 on:** August 15, 2006, 02:35:36 pm »

Some of the "locals" turn corn cob pens........by first saturating the cobs with CA glue.

Patty · « **Reply #57 on:** August 21, 2006, 12:05:26 pm »

While I am waiting for my new chuck to arrive,

I have decided to make my mom a brass bell to add to her collection. My question is this: I want the handle top to have pointy end. In order to do this do I cut my stock an inch or so too long and then make it pointed by severing it from my original piece? As it is, my tail stock and head stock won't let me make the ends really narrow and fine tipped without hitting my tool on them. Any advice is appreciated.

metalspinner · « **Reply #58 on:** August 21, 2006, 06:42:55 pm »

Patty,
What kind of chuck did you order?

The pointed end of the handel can be made a number of ways. I'm assuming you don't have a four jaw chuck. (It's on the way) To get a perfect point on the end, you will need to part it off while the lathe is spinning. Let's say the pointed end will be on the tailstock side. ( the right hand side).
First, you need a way for the lathe to hold the stock after it's parted off later. I would do this with a screw chuck. Your lathe probably came with a face plate. Just screw a flat piece of wood to this, turn it round, drill a hole right in the center with the tail stock, then screw in a screw from the back.

Second, drill a hole into the end of your extra long handle stock so you can screw it onto your screw chuck. Then screw it on your screw chuck. Bring the tailstock to the right hand side of the wood and engage the tailstock.

Third, turn your profile to shape. Bring your pointed end down to a pencil sized diameter. You should leave some extra wood for you tools to clear the live center. Then continue turning the pointed end a little at a time until you get to a toothpick diameter. When you get this close, reach your left hand around the back of the turning and support the wood with your fingers, then hold the tool on the steel shaft close to the cutting edge and continue turning the point one handed until eventual release of the waste wood at the live center.

This will be perfectly safe. The screw chuck will hold the wood, and the live center will simply stop turning. If you want to continue to turn the profile of the point, sharpen your tool, support the turning with your fingers and turn to shape with a light touch.

Of course, no long sleeve shirts, watches, braclets,rings or long hair allowed at the lathe.

I'll take pics if you need them

Patty · « **Reply #59 on:** August 22, 2006, 08:02:53 am »

I have ordered a Oneway Talon Chuck, it should be here this week. I found it on eBay and talked to the sales lady. She is a wood turner from back east in Delaware I think. She says the Woodturner's Club out there is pretty cool. They have live demos every month to teach them new techniques.

Metalspinner, thanks for the advice and thanks for taking the time. I am going to print your instructions and give it a try. I have tried to keep all the helpful hints from friends in a notebook so I can refer to them as I go. I will let you know how it goes.

Today I want to make a pen for my son who is coming home from Maryland tomorrow. Steve sent Norm some hardwoods from Hawaii that I am looking forward to spinning. I made my daughter in law a little cherry wood bowl for her jewelry. It is fun to make gifts for those you care about.

Patty · « **Reply #60 on:** August 28, 2006, 12:15:04 pm »

Yet another question.

I got in my talon chuck and it is awesome. Thanks for that one, Charlie! So Saturday I go to finish my peppermill, now that I have the new chuck, only to discover I need yet another tool! I guess I should read all of the instructions before I start a project, but that would just make it too easy!

I need to drill a 1 1/16" hole down through the center of the mill body which is 8" long. The only thing I have to drill that large of hole is a spade bit for the electric drill, and I am not sure I can do a straight hole through the center with the drill. Can the drill chuck for the mini-lathe hold a spade bit? What do you folks recommend?

Thanks in advance.

beenthere · « **Reply #61 on:** August 28, 2006, 12:35:22 pm »

What is the "mill body" that you are drilling through? Is it wood? I'm not getting the picture here, as you can tell.

thurlow · « **Reply #62 on:** August 28, 2006, 01:10:13 pm »

Patty........do you have a source for INEXPENSIVE peppermill mechanisms? All I've been able to find run $12-$15 each, which doesn't sound too bad, but...................our church has a Craft's Fair/Fall Festival each year as a fund raiser; I'm the designated woodworker

and don't think we could sell the peppermill/salt shaker combos for much more than what we'd have in them. I've got everyone looking at Goodwill and similar places for old ones that we could rob the guts out of, but so far no luck.

Thanks.........

Patty · « **Reply #63 on:** August 28, 2006, 01:49:18 pm »

Beenthere, the one I am turning is from spalted maple.

Thurlow, I think the kit was around $12-$15. Norm wanted a new peppermill, so I just ordered the kit. This is a first for me, and obviously is causing me some anxiety. First I needed a chuck, and now I guess I need a drill chuck. Although I am not sure.

One thing you may look at is their other kits, they have several to choose from. I thought their keychain/pocket knives were pretty neat. I ordered some of them, but have not made any yet. The place I have ordered from is called Craft Supplies USA. http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/index.html

Radar67 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 28, 2006, 01:54:39 pm »

Patty, the drill chucks will hold the spade bits. Also, if you use the rest as a guide for the slender part of the spade bit, you can drill it with your electric drill. I've drilled holes like this with the lathe running at low speeds using an electric drill. The spinning lathe keeps the hole centered, just go slow.

Stew

Steve · « **Reply #65 on:** August 28, 2006, 02:28:52 pm »

I want to get into pen turning but don't have a clue! What do you think about an all at once purchase like this http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=850-9500

Would I be better off buying all these things seperately or not?

I'm actually going to set this up at a friends that is going to do the turning and learning himself.

Patty · « **Reply #66 on:** August 28, 2006, 04:17:03 pm »

Steve,

I am the novice around here, but folks told me to get the variable speed Jet mini-lathe. It is more expensive, but I find myself using the variable speeds quite often. I found mine on eBay for around $350 plus shipping.

I found a place that sells the HSS steel tools for a great price. Her store is in Alexandria VA. Her website is: www.landingcrafts.com OF course I found her site AFTER I bought the more expensive Sorby tools.

The big deal with your tools is that they should be HSS so they stay good and sharp.

Patty · « **Reply #67 on:** August 28, 2006, 04:22:05 pm »

Thanks for the tip Radar. I will give it a try when the lathe drill chuck comes in. In the mean time, I am going to see if the drill press will accomodate the spade bit. My only fear is that I won't keep the hole straight as I drill. Norm hates it when all the peppercorns fall out of the hole where I accidently went thru the side!

metalspinner · « **Reply #68 on:** August 28, 2006, 04:24:16 pm »

Patty,
I like to use a forstner bit to drill the pepper shakers. I do this on the drill press before it's turned on the lathe. Make a "v" block and clamp the blank to it before trying to drill that large piece. Use a bit extension to get the extra lenghth. The good extenders are 1/2" diameter. On the spalted maple shakers spray some shellac in the drilled hole to seal the spalted wood from your pepper corns.

Thurlow,
Yes, they are expensive. If you can find inexpensive ones that work let us all know!

Steve,
Everything except the lathe and tools in the "All in one" purchase is "disposable". You should probably look for the best deal on the lathe and tool. You will probably find a less expensive setup. The biggest question I have on the "All in One" are the tools included. I'm just not sure of the quality . The finish and glue are top shelf, but don't know about the pen kits. Craft Supplies usually has nice quality kits as does Berea Hardwoods. Woodcraft gets theirs from Berea. I get disappointed with the quality of Penn State's kits. Although I haven't bought from them in a few years.

Radar67 · « **Reply #69 on:** August 28, 2006, 06:15:52 pm »

Steve, I bought the starter kit from Penn State Industries. The lathe is a JET with manual 6 speed adjustment (very easy and quick to adjust), they also have the varible speed set up. Here is the lathe JET Lathe and the starter kit, Lathe and starter set A little under $360.00. The tools that come with the kit are not HSS. I am still using them, just have to sharpen often. I also opted to purchase a 4 jaw chuck from Grizzley for another $100 bucks (for turning bowls). It has been a very good investment and I have enjoyed learning to use it.

Stew

Steve · « **Reply #70 on:** August 28, 2006, 07:55:52 pm »

Thanks all,

This is just the kind of advice I was needing. Now for the miriad of pen kits (metal parts) and designs. I guess it is just a matter of taste? Should I just buy one of each and see what I like?

I do have the wood, no need there...

metalspinner · « **Reply #71 on:** August 28, 2006, 08:08:22 pm »

If you can turn one pen, you can turn any pen. It's really just a matter of procedure. The style of pen you choose is just a matter of taste. Some pen kits allow for a little more creative leeway.

When you purchase a pen kit, buy a bag of extra tubes. This allows you to practice without committing the pen kit hardware( $5 - $10). Also pickup an extra mandrel shaft ($3) for when you bend yours. Be careful with the amount of pressure you use from the tailstock. If it gets bent, your pens will turn out oval.

Also, your project won't be put on hold waiting for UPS.

Radar67 · « **Reply #72 on:** August 28, 2006, 08:30:36 pm »

Steve, I would start out with the $1.70 slim line kits from www.woodturningz.com. If you go with the starter pack, you will get 5 pen and 5 pencil kits to learn with. I also recommend the extra barrels or tubes and the extra mandrel. I've had some real good luck with the slim line kits. I also turn what feels right to me...I have yet to turn a slim line kit down to where it is suppose to be. I'll see if I can get some pictures posted.

Stew

Radar67 · « **Reply #73 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:07:30 pm »

Here are a few of my slim line kits, using my wood.

Red Cedar with a Fancy slim line kit in gun metal.

Oak burl

Spalted Red Oak

Spalted Beech

Japanese Maple

Desert Ironwood

Pink Plastic

Purple Plastic

All of the kits except for the first are basic slim line gold kits from Wood Turninz.

Stew

Steve · « **Reply #74 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:38:59 pm »

Thanks a bunch Stew, beautiful woods and pens you have there yourself.

I want to offer a Hawaiian selection kinda thing. I have 4 or 5 woods from Hawaii that would make a nice set- I think..

thurlow · « **Reply #75 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:49:53 pm »

Stew............I couldn't get the woodturninz link to work; is it still good, do you think?

Thanks

Radar67 · « **Reply #76 on:** August 28, 2006, 09:59:49 pm »

Thurlow, check the link again. I made an error in it...it is corrected now.

Stew

Radar67 · « **Reply #77 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:01:42 pm »

Steve, I've seen some of the Hawiian woods and I think you have a good idea. What Species do you have?

Stew

Steve · « **Reply #78 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:11:27 pm »

Koa and Mango and just a dab of Pheasantwood, spalted ironwood, Lychee, Milo, Lacewood, Macadamiita Nut- that's it I think.

Radar67 · « **Reply #79 on:** August 28, 2006, 10:24:19 pm »

Those should make a nice set of pens and/or pencils.

Stew

Patty · « **Reply #80 on:** August 29, 2006, 07:53:02 am »

Steve's wood blanks make beautiful pens, I can attest to that! I have made 2 pens from the blanks he sent, they are beautiful! Pictures will be soon.

Patty · « **Reply #81 on:** September 05, 2006, 05:15:24 pm »

The thick is good for filling in tear out, pores, or little imperfections. Before you complete the shape - let's say 95% complete, fill in the gaps with a touch of thick CA glue, hand sand with the grain diection using 220 grit or so, let dry, then sand with the machine on. Repeat if needed, then turn to completion.

Ok, back on page 3 I asked about turning dry spalted wood with checks in it. Today my glue came in. I have both the thin and thick viscocity. So now do I just pour the thin stuff down into the cracks and hope it satuates the wood so I can finish my itty bitty bowl? The wood has splits around the edges, and when the gouge hits them it tears off a chunk. I cut the chunk of wood into a circle with the band saw, so I pretty much have my outside dimensional shape and size, unless I tear out another big chunk when I am turning it.

, and the wood looks like a little solid cylinder about 3" long and 2" wide. I just need to secure the outside so to speak with glue so I can add some shape to it, like a curved rim or something. The inside is still not scooped out. I wanted to glue the outside edges of it first which seemed to make the most sense to me.

I want to explain the "splits" in my little cylinder. They are not thick cracks that run verticle, they are like edge fissures that run horizontally around the circumfrence. The wood kind of "peels" off in chucks when these fissure are exposed. $:-\$

metalspinner · « **Reply #82 on:** September 05, 2006, 08:49:07 pm »

Patty,
The fissures your speaking of, are they breaks across the grain called "brash failure"? If so, that particular piece of wood is probably to far gone to turn safely. Is the texture of the wood more like a sponge than a solid piece? A small spot of "sponginess' is O.K. Sometimes those little spongy spots break off and look really cool in the finished piece. But if the structure of the piece is compromised, a catch could send your bowl bouncing off the wall or your head.

That's why I like to wear a full face shield rather than just glasses.

In general, I don't use the CA glue until I've got some shape to the piece. That little block of wood will soak up 10 bottles of that glue. Before you make a piece with your nice spalted stuff, practice on a piece of wood that doesn't have the added complication of spalt.

Also, I want to make sure of the orientation of the wood on your lathe. If the grain of the wood is parallel to the axis of the lathe it's called spindle turning. If the grain of the wood is perpendicular to the axis it's called face plate turning. Is your grain oriented parallel or perpendicular?

metalspinner · « **Reply #83 on:** September 05, 2006, 09:37:39 pm »

Here is a pic of a small spalted maple bowl if anyone is wondering what in the world we are talking about.

Patty · « **Reply #84 on:** September 06, 2006, 07:52:32 am »

The grain of the wood is horizontal to the axis. So the end grain is pointing into the chuck on one end and waiting to be removed on the other if I were to make a bowl.

I googled "brash failure", and I don't think that is what is going on with this piece. It is more like I can peel the pieces off the edge with my hand if I can get my fingernail into the crack. I am going to sqeeze a few drops of glue down into the cracks that I can see, and hope that it will stabilize the edge a bit. If it doesn't work, then no problem, but now I am curious and just HAVE to know!

Your bowl is gorgeous!

metalspinner · « **Reply #85 on:** September 06, 2006, 08:09:03 am »

Yes, a little bit of CA should work just fine for that.

Norm · « **Reply #86 on:** October 04, 2006, 06:43:35 pm »

I wanted to post a picture of a couple of turnings Patty and I have done.

She made the bell for her Mom, the handle is spalted hard maple.

I made a pepper grinder for myself.

These would have never been made without Charlie's help, directions and patience answering our questions about how to do these projects. Without his help they'd still be square pieces.

Thank you Charlie.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #87 on:** October 04, 2006, 07:03:54 pm »

Nice pieces, Norm. The first ones ??

We will be in the states in 2 weeks, and a mini-lathe is a priority to carry back down here. MIGHT have to ship a couple pallets of stuff I just can't seem to get along without.

Steven A. · « **Reply #88 on:** October 04, 2006, 10:13:17 pm »

It looks like a fun hobby but I wonder if anyone makes any money making and selling them. I see some guys sitting at flea markets with a whole bunch of them and not many customers.
If you are going to get even $10/hour for your production time, the real cost of materials including your time shopping for them, freight, etc., some money for your shop expense and your expense and hours to sell them how much would each one have to sell for so you could make a reasonable profit?

Like many hobby/business schemes I think the only money is made by the people selling supplies to the makers.

Patty · « **Reply #89 on:** October 05, 2006, 07:44:20 am »

I do not know if I will ever be in a position to actually "make money" working with the lathe. I am sure many folks do, but their skill level is more like Charlie's and metalspinner, and burlcraft. I know one lady on the forum that seems to do well selling her pens, but I do not think it is her only income source.

The sheer pleasure I receive working with the lathe is my reward at this time.

metalspinner · « **Reply #90 on:** October 05, 2006, 10:19:12 am »

For small projects like pens and such, the problem is that the market is saturated with craftspeople making the same thing. Just look at the number of catalogue's dedicated just to pen making.

The time I "make" money at the lathe on those type of projects is for gifts needed throughout the year - Christmas, birthday's, weddings, ect.... And it's so fast to make, that I can procrastinate until the last minute!

Quote

The sheer pleasure I receive working with the lathe is my reward at this time.

This should be dually noted.

Tom · « **Reply #91 on:** October 05, 2006, 05:20:24 pm »

The trick to making money in niche markets is to like what you are doing and be satisfied with your output. You can't compete with automated machinery and a shop full of 50¢ and hour labor. You have to love what you are doing.

Take a lesson from the old masters. People have, for eons, painted pictures of landscapes and portraits. The ones that are notable and who made it in the end, were the ones that kept turning out product, signing their work and allowing the public to generate the 'worth'. Try comparing a Picasso to a water color done by the local kid in kindergarten. They may not look much different, but the kid would be happy with a dime. There was a time when Picasso probably would have too.

dail_h · « **Reply #92 on:** October 06, 2006, 10:06:17 pm »

How big do pen blanks need to be? I have some small bits of chestnut from this job I'm on now,if they would be usable. IM me if interested

Modat22 · « **Reply #93 on:** October 10, 2006, 01:20:43 pm »

I've been thinking about drying out some nuisance grape vine and some wild rose bush trunks for pen blanks. It might be an interesting figure.

beenthere · « **Reply #94 on:** October 10, 2006, 03:00:34 pm »

Modat
Do you just air dry it? How dry does it need to get for pen blanks?

Modat22 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 10, 2006, 03:49:54 pm »

I haven't tried it yet. I'm guessing it could be stabilized with PET and turned soon after. Someone with more knowledge should answer this one

metalspinner · « **Reply #96 on:** October 10, 2006, 03:58:28 pm »

The skinniest pens can be made from 5/8" square stock that is about 6" long. The larger pen styles like Patty made need 3/4" - maybe more if your drilling set up is undependable. Of course the blank will be cut in half, so two shorter pieces can be used.

beenthere,
I guess the best answer is "dry enough." But really, air dryed (12-15%) is o.k. The turning will be quite thin and the center will be drilled out. The blank will crack while drilling if there are wetness conditions. I use air dryed pieces all the time with no problems. If the pieces makes it through the initial drilling for the tubes, it should make it to the finished pen.

beenthere · « **Reply #97 on:** October 10, 2006, 04:19:19 pm »

I was just curious, as Modat said he was ""thinking about drying out some nuisance grape vine "".
I'm wondering what PET is

Modat22 · « **Reply #98 on:** October 10, 2006, 04:23:52 pm »

Sorry beenthere. I had a blonde moment

I think its called PEG Polyethal glycol or something like that.

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