Author Topic: DanG-DeadHeader Log Lifter (Read 15563 times)

getoverit · « **on:** February 21, 2006, 12:45:19 pm »

I finally got the DanG-DeadHeader Log Lifter finished and had some logs to move. It took me a few minutes to figure out how it all worked, but in no time I had loaded several logs on the trailer and hadn't even broke out in a sweat doing it.

Thought I would give credit to the master engeneering minds that helped create this wonderful tool

You guys are geniuses !! Many thanks for all of the technical advice while this thing was under construction !

DanG · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2006, 12:56:38 pm »

Murf · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2006, 01:06:04 pm »

That looks like a DanG clever idea.

In fact, if ya put another one on the front and made a ridgepole up, you could have a pretty DanG big mobile pup tent.

For your log dogs.

Ok, not such a funny joke.......

sawguy21 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2006, 01:08:36 pm »

So how do ya make that puppy work?

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2006, 03:11:57 pm »

Now if ya could just cut some of that lumber and design a door for the shop instead of using that wind whipped tarp...

jon12345 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2006, 03:40:55 pm »

cut some of that lumber and design a door

least right now don't gotta worry about gettin locked out

red · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2006, 08:51:22 pm »

looks good

and slightly redesigned

Part_Timer · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2006, 09:10:10 pm »

That's one fine looking loader there Ken. I like the paint job.

So how do ya like that new truck of yours??

getoverit · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2006, 10:09:28 pm »

The truck runs like a top, and so far I've been real pleased with it. I even had some custom logos made for the doors

I'm working on trying to find some pine logs to cut to make the doors for the new woodshop. I'm alos going to panel the inside of it with pine boards that I cut myself, if I have to cut down one of my own pines to do it

sawguy21, if you look at DanG's gallery, you will find detailed pictures on how this works. Basically, it is a swinging "A" frame with a winch attached. The A frame is swung backward, lowering the top of it , and then a chain is attached from the log to the top of the A frame. when the winch pulls the A frame and streightens it up, the log is lifted and placed on the back of the trailer. From there, it is simply pulled onto the trailer by the winch.

I took DanG's idea and modified it a bit, and by golly it works! I have discovered that I can also use the winch and A frame as a crane, and lift some heavy loads up in the air by using a snatch block. I just chain off the A frame so that it is at about a 45 degree angle on the back of the trailer, and then use the winch, through the snatch block, to lift heavy loads.

The base of the lifter slides into the stake pockets in my trailer, so it is easy to remove when I want to use the trailer for other things. I addded a bolt in each leg, through the steak pocket, to hold it in place and keep it from bouncing out while I'm going down the road. Remove those 2 bolts, slide the legs out of the pockets, and its a normal trailer again!

Here is a picture of the "knuckle" at the base of the A frame.

Thanks for the compliments !!

sawguy21 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2006, 12:02:00 pm »

Ah so, thanks, I learn sumpin here every day.

getoverit · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2006, 10:33:44 pm »

I had something happen yesterday that I thought was kinda funny. I had seen a really big Pine tree that someone had cut down in their yard, and left my card on their door. The guy called me back in a short while, and to make a long story short, told me to come get it. I was there in about an hour, with the "DanG-DeadHeader Log Lifter" in tow.

This guy had already cut about 20' of the top of the tree into firewood size chunks, but what remained were 2 logs, each of them 20' long and both of them about 30" in diameter.

I told the guy I was there to get the logs, and he asked, where is your equipment?? I told him I had all I needed, and he said, well, who is helping you?? I told him I could load it and be gone in a few minutes, and he says " THIS I GOTTA SEE"

I backed the trailer up to the log, set up the DDLL in place, put a chain around the log, and in short order I had it on the trailer and ready to be trailered home. Because of the weight and diameter of the logs, I had to haul them one at a time, so it took me about 45 minutes to go home and drop off the first one before I could get back. Before I left, the owner was on the phone telling whoever he was talking to...."you gotta see this... this little short guy came over here with no more than a winch and trailer and loaded that big log all by himself and didnt even break out in a sweat doing it"....

When I got back for the second log, Not only was the owner there, but 3 of his sons (who turned out to be contractors needing large beams). I loaded the second log, and made deals with the sons for selling them custom sawn beams for their construction projects.

All the way home, people were breaking their necks trying to see who it was pulling this HUGE pine log down the road, and almost running me off the road trying to write down my phone number from the sides of the truck.

It was a good day !!

metalspinner · « **Reply #11 on:** March 08, 2006, 10:40:50 pm »

Cool.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #12 on:** March 08, 2006, 11:35:57 pm »

Maybe it's time to start receiving them "royalty checks", EH ??

Part_Timer · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2006, 07:45:13 am »

Way to go Ken

Sounds like things are starting to pick up for ya.

sound like quite a gig picking up the free logs and turning around a selling it right back to em.

Tom

Lud · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2006, 09:44:05 am »

Well done, Ken. Nice RED paint and excellent Lettering.

wiam · « **Reply #15 on:** March 09, 2006, 08:20:39 pm »

Harold maybe you can talk him into half of what he paid for the logs.

Will

eagles nest · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2006, 06:37:18 am »

say how tall is the A frame & what thickness square tubing did y use

WeeksvilleWoodWorx · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:20:02 pm »

Here ya go Eagle.

Log Lift

getoverit · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:39:18 pm »

Thanks for all the kind compliments !

The REAL praise should go to DanG and Fla_Deadheader though. It was those guys that inspired my creation and got me started on the physics of the log lifter.

I will add one note though. For small logs, the 8' A frame lifts the logs a pretty good distance off of the ground, and when it gets past the 1/2 way mark, the Log is moved forward and the log and the A frame comes crashing down on the trailer with a thud. For the LARGE logs like the 30" diameter by 20' long log I loaded the other day, it is just right on the lift height and because the log weighs so much, it doesnt come crashing down and falling forward when it hits. It's a nice gentle landing on the trailer.

The A frame legs are 8' long, and it is 3" square tubing , 1/4" wall. Its kind of heavy to be using for the little logs, but just right for this monster log. There was plenty of room on each side of the log for the lifter to lay down.

One advantage to having an A frame is that it can help to "winch" the logs down and hold them in place when transporting. Just lay the A frame down on the log, and tighten the winch cable going to the top of the A frame. It centers the log because of it's design, and holds it in place too. I use a 2" winching strap at the front to hold the logs in place on the front end of the trailer.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2006, 09:48:50 pm »

There is quite a bit of geometry involved with building the first log loading arch. The reason I fastened the base of the arch about 18" forward of the rear end of the trailer, is so that "crashing down" could be controlled.

Also, I did not use the original arch as a "boom", by pulling on it with the cable. I ran a cable through a snatch block, that was hooked in a chain on the arch. My design will allow the placing of logs anywhere on the deck by simply sliding the block from one side to the other. We used a chain to "grab" the arch before it fell "over center", and when you release tension, the arch settles back down in it's original "set" at approximately 45° to the trailer bed. Then you slip the cable loop farther down the log and winch it further onto the trailer, OR, take the cable out of the block and winch the log forward.

My operating instructions were not completely followed as I described, so, the arch is used differently by DanG and Ken.

Oakiemac has the trailer now. Maybe he is using the arch, maybe not ??

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #20 on:** March 11, 2006, 07:10:44 am »

I wonder if you used a chain hook at the apex of the arch and a hook on the end of the chain you wrap around the log on the ground to adjust the length of chain from arch hook to log set. Short chain for long logs and longer chain for short logs.

getoverit · « **Reply #21 on:** March 11, 2006, 09:26:05 pm »

I already to this. In order to get the lift AND the forward movement necessary to set the log on the back of the trailer, it ends up raising the small logs further up in the air than I would like them to be. For the larger logs, the weight of the part of the log still on the ground is enough to slow this down and make it a really slow and smooth landing. It's really not a problem on the small logs, it just startles you the first time it happens and you have to plan on it and not be in the way.

jpgreen · « **Reply #22 on:** March 11, 2006, 09:54:00 pm »

Can't wait to build the DanG DHLL..

Truck looks real good Ken. You lookin' professional and all..

DanG · « **Reply #23 on:** March 11, 2006, 10:39:33 pm »

Ken, just keep monkeyin' around with the angles. Don't drop the arch back quite so far, and you'll get more forward movement and less lift. I don't ever pull the arch past the vertical, so I don't get crashes. Are you using the snatch block? If so, try it without it. Just a drop chain with a big loop around the log will do the trick. If you stop the forward motion 10-15 degrees before reaching vertical, then reverse the winch, it will set the log down on the trailer lightly, every time. The chain will automatically drop back for the next pull as you lower the arch.

getoverit · « **Reply #24 on:** March 27, 2006, 10:03:28 pm »

I had a chance to get some more free logs today, so I hitched up the DDLL and headed out. This oak log was about 30' long, and I had to cut it into 2 sections to get it all. Here is the butt log. The picture really doesnt do it justice because of the weight of the log. I have an 8000# winch on the trailer, and it was ALL I could do to get this part of it loaded.

As usual, this drew a crowd. One lady was so happy when I got it loaded up that she yelled out:

YOU MIGHT BE A REDNECK!!

red · « **Reply #25 on:** June 07, 2006, 06:04:22 pm »

I found a LINK for winching info ... thought it would go good here

some simple info
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/index.html

safety manuals

http://www.craneinstitute.com/mall/Manuals.asp

nyforester · « **Reply #26 on:** June 07, 2006, 10:34:07 pm »

I would like to see some pictures of it in action. I went to DANG's gallery but did not see them. It might be good to have one when the log truck is in another town and I need to move a log or 2.

Tom · « **Reply #27 on:** June 07, 2006, 10:59:08 pm »

Both DanG and Fla._Deadheader have that loader. You might look in Deadheader's album or search for some old posts. I know he showed off the trailer several times.

Dang made his a little different

Getoverit has something similar but made quite a few changes.

oakiemac · « **Reply #28 on:** June 08, 2006, 10:07:14 pm »

I just saw this old thread after reading getoverit's thread on his log lifter.

I do have Harold's old log trailer but I have yet to even hook up a battery to the winch. I gave the winch remote to by buddy to look at and he lost it (he is here on the forum as floorboy) but he is urgently looking for it as we speak. We are also looking at putting new axels on the trailer and modifing the bunks so that we can safely haul 8' logs.
I plan on hooking up the arch and winch real soon because I have a few logs that I want to hual but I don't want to take the Bobcat. I think these archs work real good for hauling a few logs but if you need to stack them then a loader is probably needed.

DanG · « **Reply #29 on:** June 09, 2006, 11:04:24 pm »

Oakie, play around with it a little bit when you get it running again. There's a little bit of technique involved. I found it easy to stack logs with it, once I figgered it out. Don't pull so far forward that your arch crashes down, but let it down by reversing the winch when the end of the log clears the back of the trailer. If you need to lift the log higher, just lower the arch further back and hook your lift chain straight down. This way, you'll get more lift and less forward pull. This works great for logs up to about 20" or so. Beyond that, you ain't gonna want to stack them, anyway.

getoverit · « **Reply #30 on:** June 13, 2006, 09:59:20 pm »

I have managed to haul some mighty big logs with my loader, but it is a modified version of both DanG and DeadHeader's log loaders. I mounted mine on the rear of the trailer like DanG did, and it worked fine. If I managed to get the frame a little too far forward though, it would crash over and make a big thump. I actually broke several 5/16" chains (chinese) lifting logs that were so big they would barely fit through the opening. It is hard to tell, but this oak log was about 36" on the big end and about 12' long. I was able to load it by myself with no help from anybody else, and it was right in the middle of a well manicured lawn and I didnt even leave tire tracks. The springs on the trailer were bottomed out

I bought an 8000# black mountain winch (ebay). It worked fine, but it pulled loose from the frame and mount I had made for it and broke the end pieces. I need to order some new pieces, but this has been a low priority for me since I have just been taking the skid steer to get logs now.

I would definitely reccomend placing the base of the frame about 3 feet forward of the rear of the trailer, and allowing some room for a chain to keep the frame from crashing forward.

I'm actually looking for a larger truck now (maybe 2 ton to 2 1/2 ton) to haul my logs with, and also a hydraulic loading arm of some sort.

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #31 on:** April 24, 2007, 12:03:47 am »

I finally took some pics of my newly finished DanG-Fla.Deadheader-getoverit trailer arch. DanG was kind enough to assist with online help to keep the process smooth.

It works better than I had hoped.

Should have gone with a little bigger winch. But my mill is lite duty anyway. Just have to chase the smaller logs.

Lets take home!

beenthere · « **Reply #32 on:** April 24, 2007, 12:17:40 am »

In the first pic, looks like two winches on the trailer. 'splain that fer us please. Is one a capstan on a chain saw motor?

Loading that way makes it look pretty easy, all things considered.

DanG · « **Reply #33 on:** April 24, 2007, 12:20:54 am »

Good job, Ledlie!!

That's a mighty fine example of the DanG-Deadheader-Getoverit-Ledlie Log Load'n Deevice!

getoverit · « **Reply #34 on:** April 24, 2007, 12:33:32 am »

Outstanding device

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #35 on:** April 24, 2007, 01:02:00 am »

The winch on the trailer is a Superwinch 3000. Pretty small, maybe for a ATV I don't know. I bought it at a garage sale before I new what a log arch was. It works the arch and does the final pull home of the log. The chainsaw winch is a 660 with a Lewis winch. I use that to pull the the logs to the trailer. Because it was dirt I did not have to use the forwarding arch. I use that when there is grass or lawn. Thanks for all the help and great ideas on this thing. I got it built without asking to many questions. They were all answered in the archives on this forum. And thanks for the kind words on the finished product.
Ledlie

Burlkraft · « **Reply #36 on:** April 24, 2007, 07:35:33 am »

Nice work Ledlie...That's a fine piece of equipment...

theorm · « **Reply #37 on:** April 24, 2007, 05:05:50 pm »

Hey Guys,

What size cable would you suggest? I plan on using a 8000# winch when I build a DanG arch log loading trailer.

Theo

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #38 on:** April 24, 2007, 07:15:04 pm »

theorm, the size cable you use should reflect what weight logs you will be hauling. With a smaller cable you can have more of it on the winch. That means longer pulls with less problems. My winch is small with little cable and it is a problem. That is why I use the Lewis winch to pull the logs to the trailer. If I upgrade later I will use a 3000# cable and load up a bunch of it. You can always double up with a snatch block for the big stuff. Keep in mind I have only pulled four loads so far and may find this is not as good of an idea in the real world as it is in my head.
Ledlie

thecfarm · « **Reply #39 on:** April 24, 2007, 08:21:41 pm »

Nice job you did there,LedlieLogs.Now you can get all the logs you want.You won't have to wish you had a way to get the logs home.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #40 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:11:39 am »

you should use a cable that had the working load of your winch or more. you don't want to pull that cable in two....

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #41 on:** April 25, 2007, 11:28:35 am »

Nice job. Just dont understand why everyone builds to a "V" at the top. With the full width across the top, you can load the logs anywhere you want, without needing (much) a cant hook

How do you keep the arch from crashing forward when the log is swinging ahead

Ya gotta remember, I built the first one in ½ a day. Needed it PRONTO

Never met the log we couldn't load

Oh yeah, send Royalties to c/o: Loading-Arch account @ FF dot com

sawguy21 · « **Reply #42 on:** April 25, 2007, 12:56:20 pm »

The tripod setup would be a lot stronger with less weight than a beam spanning the trailer. I too am wondering what stops the arch when it goes over centre.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #43 on:** April 25, 2007, 01:46:24 pm »

I used 2" galv. water pipe.

Anybody think this Live Oak is not heavy, raise yer hand

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #44 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:26:57 pm »

Hey Harold,
I went with the "A" frame design because I thought it would be stronger. After today's load I think that might not have been the best idea. It only loads to the center, and you must plan ahead to make everything fit on the trailer. A bar all the way across the end of the trailer would be much easier for moving the logs left to right. Oh well, my bad. I'll get it right next time. Truth be told, I did not have enough bar stock to go all the way across. I don't let the arch come far enough forward to crash. I get near the top and ease her back down, reposition the chain and go again. Still, I love this thing. Maxed the trailer out today and it loaded pretty easy. It just takes a little cant hook work to make it all fit. Came home with today's load and a lady in my neighborhood stopped me and ask how much I would charge to remove some pines out of her yard that were down and limbed. Man, can this be true? I'm gonna get paid to do something I would do for FREE! Naw, that don't happen for Ledlie. I told her I would be more than happy to remove them for free. Her husband calls me and said he was a butcher, says what kind of steak do you like. I say Filet Mignon. He said when you get the trees up I got something for ya. I say OK. You got to love this thing, its paying for itself right off the bat. I don't even mill for money.
Harold I know that you were kidding about the money but when I got it done I sent a little six pack money to the boss. He said I did not have to but it just seems like a fellow should pay for something that works this good. I can't believe how easy it is to get logs to the mill now. Just makes my day.
Ledlie

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #45 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:35:10 pm »

Poor Jeffy. Now, he don't know what to do

Of COURSE I was just kidding.

Glad it's workin out. NOW, sounds like yer not using a snatch block for the cable to run through

If ya did, you could simply loosen the cable, and slipit back on the log, and cinch 'er up onto the trailer. It also allows you to pull from the side and snake the log to the trailer.

If yer happy, that's what counts.

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #46 on:** April 25, 2007, 06:48:02 pm »

OK, I'm kinda slow these days. Please tell me how it works. I do snatch block form the sides of the trailer to snake the log in to position. If I snatch block to the top of the A frame what makes the frame come forward? What holds it steady while you winch? Do you let it crash or do you chain it off? Sorry, I just ain't followin ya. But I do know you be the resident expert. Thanks,
Leldlie

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #47 on:** April 25, 2007, 07:23:06 pm »

The loader will NOT come forward, unless you are pulling logs from ahead of the trailer. I used a chain, around the cross bar and fed through one of the braces. It went down and was wrapped around the end of the trailer, 6" pipe, and adjusted for forward travel.

The cable ran through the snatch block, to the log, When you start winching, the cable raises up in a straight line to the log, in effect, trying to lift the end of the log. It drags MUCH easier that way. We were doing it in water, mostly.

If you have the cable cinched in the right place on the log, the log will cease forward travel when it approaches the trailer, and it will be lifted. When the log reaches the snatch block, OR, slips ahead a little, the log will drop onto the end of the trailer, as the arch travels forward, being stopped by the chain. From there, let off the cable, the log will relax on the end of the trailer, and the arch will settle back to the original position.

Once there, you can slip the cable back for another lift-pull, OR slip it out of the snatch block and winch the log onto the trailer. Position the block on the bar, and it will stay and put the log anywhere you like.

I thought there were more pics in my Gallery.
Maybe Jeff has them in a machinery folder or sumpin

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #48 on:** April 25, 2007, 08:32:00 pm »

Thanks FDH,
I'll make some mods and give it a try. I am happy now, maybe I could be happier. Of course I will probably have to ask some more questions. Once again thanks for the help today and for the whole DanG idea. It really works very well. Even easy on the trailer considering what your loading.
Happy Ledlie

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #49 on:** April 25, 2007, 08:44:19 pm »

If yer happy, you don't hafta change it.

Just thought you should know how much better I like it.

jpgreen · « **Reply #50 on:** April 26, 2007, 09:46:15 am »

Does Loading-Arch account @ FF dot com take PayPal..

DanG · « **Reply #51 on:** April 26, 2007, 10:21:40 am »

Harold, I think most of the pics of your loader are archived with the others that were posted before we each had our own gallery. I think you can transfer them to your gallery if you can find'em.

I guess you and I will always be at odds on the block/no block question, eh?

All I can suggest is that folks try it both ways and go with the one they like best.

Tom · « **Reply #52 on:** April 26, 2007, 11:24:05 am »

Here's all the pictures I could find in the archives in the log loading gallery. The first is Fla.-Deadheaders. The sport-model ..model.. is Ed, AKA Swampy.

These are of DanG's

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #53 on:** April 26, 2007, 12:34:25 pm »

Thanks Tom and the rest of you guys. Now it is much easier to understand. You know those of us that can't read need a picture to fully understand.
Ledlie

solodan · « **Reply #54 on:** April 26, 2007, 02:29:03 pm »

Tom,
Thanks for posting them pics.

I had seen those before but then could not find them when I looked in Harolds gallery a while back. I understand it way better now, and now I will build one. I still may buy a log truck with a loader though.

I Asked some guy yesterday if he wanted to sell his self loader short logger, I thought he would say no , but than he said "Yeah I think I might want to buy a new one anyway" Now I am racking my brain trying to figure out what I want to do. $:-\$

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #55 on:** April 26, 2007, 04:40:34 pm »

DanG, we been at odds since day one

Just wanted to give strukshuns on the way WE had used our 2 arches.

Not saying one is better,

, BUT, there MAY be an even better way

Solodan =

That there's a joke, Son, I say, a JOKE.

DanG · « **Reply #56 on:** April 26, 2007, 09:20:05 pm »

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on April 26, 2007, 04:40:34 pm

DanG, we been at odds since day one

DanG, Harold! That's the second time you've agreed with me this month. You ok?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #57 on:** April 26, 2007, 10:11:56 pm »

Naah. I'm just waitin to see how long it takes for YOU to agree with Me.

DanG · « **Reply #58 on:** April 26, 2007, 10:16:38 pm »

Shucks, I'm an agreeable chap. I'm just waitin' for you to be right.

Furby · « **Reply #59 on:** April 30, 2007, 02:42:58 pm »

Quote from: DanG on April 26, 2007, 10:21:40 am

I think you can transfer them to your gallery if you can find'em.

I wouldn't try anything like that without checking with Jeff first, I belive it would create a real mess.

Max sawdust · « **Reply #60 on:** May 03, 2007, 10:53:20 am »

Thanks everyone!

I was thinking knuckleboom but $$$ and the added weight on the trailer with my small truck makes it just a dream and not sensible for moving 2-5 high end sawlogs at a time.

I need one of these log lifters.

I don't have a welder so thinking of making it of threaded pipe

Seems like the DanG and the Deadheader style both have advantages.

How about unloading?
Max

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #61 on:** May 03, 2007, 03:17:50 pm »

DO NOT USE THREADS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They are a very weak place and will hurtcha BAD . Scrounge Aluminum cans and sell them, so you can have a welder do it right.

SERIOUSLY, threads will break .

We have one to sell in Sebastian. It was shown in the above thread. Works great on a smaller trailer

Wanna travel

Max sawdust · « **Reply #62 on:** May 03, 2007, 08:29:14 pm »

Thanks for the warning

WI to FL with gas prices being at $3 a gallon would add up, otherwise I would be on it

I have access to some channel stock like on the DanG model, but I kinda like the round stock on the Deadheader model.

So Thinks I will find someone that can weld fer cheap

Thanks again for the word of warning..
max

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #63 on:** May 03, 2007, 08:37:24 pm »

Problem with Channel is, it can twist. DanG found that out. If it's heavy enough to not twist, YOU can't lift it.

That's why I chose 2" Pipe. 2" Rigid Conduit is the same stuff

Max sawdust · « **Reply #64 on:** May 03, 2007, 09:22:55 pm »

2" pipe it is

(That was an easy sell after looking at the pics of each log loader closely

)
max

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #65 on:** May 03, 2007, 10:05:05 pm »

For unloading, You can reverse the way you load, by snubbing the cable onto a log partway up onto the trailer, OR, back up to something heavy, like a Big truck, or tree, and hook a log to it and drive away.

We had the Bolsters on the trailer removable, so we could roll the logs off sideways or use a Boom-forklift, whatever.

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #66 on:** May 04, 2007, 12:24:51 am »

I use the tree method. Quick and easy. I back up to a certain tree in the log yard. I have a snatch block about seven feet up in the tree. I run the cable from the winch to the log on the trailer and pull it off. It is much faster unloading than loading. Then you can run get another load.

LedlieLogs · « **Reply #67 on:** May 04, 2007, 02:21:21 am »

Is what I mean to say is, that I run the cable from the winch to the block in the tree to the log and then unload her. Works great. Not my design, I just copy it.

Ledlie

Max sawdust · « **Reply #68 on:** May 04, 2007, 05:31:47 am »

Thanks for the idea's

Got a long road trip today, so this gives me somtin to ponder

max

LittleB · « **Reply #69 on:** April 15, 2011, 08:16:05 pm »

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on May 03, 2007, 08:37:24 pm

That's why I chose 2" Pipe. 2" Rigid Conduit is the same stuff

Can you weld the 2" pipe using a flux mig welder like the 90 amp ones they sell at Harbor Freight?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #70 on:** April 15, 2011, 08:20:35 pm »

I used a Miller 140 wire welder w/gas. Never could get flux wire to work well. This was also 9 years ago, so, flux wire might be better, now.

I just built one out of wood, and, loaded some pretty heavy logs, down here. Hooked up my Handy-dandy Boat Super Winch. Worked well enough to impress the natives.

LittleB · « **Reply #71 on:** April 15, 2011, 09:24:03 pm »

Thanks for the reply Fla._Deadheader.

I don't have a trailer but want to make something like this to get the logs into my F-250's pickup bed. Since you said round pipe was the way to go, I figured I'd use that as a foundation.

Has anyone made one of these for a pickup truck?

So far, the best idea I've come up with is to make some type of 2" pipe frame that can be used to support the log being pulled towards the truck and then up (Kind of like a heavy duty ladder rack). At that point, maybe I could release the weight from the line and pull it the rest of the way in by disconnecting the pulley closest to (and above) the tailgate. Then it could be pulled the rest of the way to the front of the bed.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread...I've learned a lot from it.

snowstorm · « **Reply #72 on:** April 16, 2011, 07:33:40 am »

Quote from: LittleB on April 15, 2011, 08:16:05 pm

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on May 03, 2007, 08:37:24 pm
That's why I chose 2" Pipe. 2" Rigid Conduit is the same stuff

Can you weld the 2" pipe using a flux mig welder like the 90 amp ones they sell at Harbor Freight?

no if ya want a nice mig a miller 175 any of them with gas dont work well outside. if price is an issue why not find a used stick welder. if its ac only buy some 7018ac rods if the steel is clean 6011 for rust

thecfarm · « **Reply #73 on:** April 16, 2011, 07:59:46 am »

I don't want to start the stick,gas,flux core debate again,but I have a Lincoln SP-175T flux core,wired 220 and have made a woods trailer,welded on my winch and many other things and have not broke a weld yet. I even made a rock carrier with my other welder that only used 110 current. That has held up too. I am surprised I had not broke a weld on that yet.I have thrown alot of rocks into that thing.Reason I use flux core because all my welding is done outside.

Woodwalker · « **Reply #74 on:** April 16, 2011, 08:33:08 am »

Quote from: LittleB on April 15, 2011, 09:24:03 pm

Thanks for the reply Fla._Deadheader.

I don't have a trailer but want to make something like this to get the logs into my F-250's pickup bed. Since you said round pipe was the way to go, I figured I'd use that as a foundation.

Has anyone made one of these for a pickup truck?

So far, the best idea I've come up with is to make some type of 2" pipe frame that can be used to support the log being pulled towards the truck and then up (Kind of like a heavy duty ladder rack). At that point, maybe I could release the weight from the line and pull it the rest of the way in by disconnecting the pulley closest to (and above) the tailgate. Then it could be pulled the rest of the way to the front of the bed.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread...I've learned a lot from it.

Years ago we use to "Headache poles up to 40’ long on one ton trucks rigged with oilfield type beds with A- frames and winch. I’m not sure a ladder rack is going to work. Height of the rack at the rear of the truck is going to be one problem and then the weight of the logs on the rear of the bed is another.
It will work, but you are going to need a flatbed, headache rack, winch, gin poles and a rolling tail board would help

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #75 on:** April 16, 2011, 10:46:24 am »

If you mount the "lifter frame" on brackets on your rear bumper, and have a way to anchor a set of cables to the bed in the front, that's all you need. When you drag a log to the truck, just before it reaches the bumper, it will start to raise up. As you keep winching, it will then start to move forward. This is where the timing is critical.

IF you stop in time, you reverse the winch, and set the end of the log on the bed. Then, simply move the winch cable further down the log, and repeat the lifting process.

The log will slide right into the truck. If you need to go further, just repeat the process.

When you get the bed full, you can add a second layer and even a third.

Everyone wants to complicate this thing. Like I stated, I made one out of wood. I need to pick up 3 more logs, so, I will TRY to remember to take the camera. These logs are not real big, maybe butt cut is 15" or so, small end. The rest are from the same tree.

Ironwood · « **Reply #76 on:** May 16, 2011, 09:52:54 pm »

Just doing some research, I am doing some "headache poles" (mentioned in this post earlier) modified into a DDLL on the back of my new-to-me F-550 4x4 gasser. I am about done with my "low pro" log bed and movable standards with integrated D rings. The pics will flow in the next few days. I finally got the Hiab 035 knuckle bom operable and fully mounted. My current challenge is I cannot get my truck up into a yard to get a BIG walnut a large retaining wall is where I must STOP. I have to combination winch and lift (or actually unweight the front ) as I bring it to the rear of the truck. To complicate matters the yard leans to a garage beside my truck, so I need a pulley point rear of the rear bumper about 6-8' out and up in the air 6-8'. I dont want the log to roll into the garage

I have some nice schedule 40 3" pipe (former gasline in a building, so clean and rust free), that will be my material of choice. Additionally, it will be able to be broken down for assembly and transport as needed (add/ modified, ie lengthened or shortened as needed). I also mounted a 12,000 lb Ramsey in the rear "bay" of the truck frame and there will be a 9,000 Ramsey up at the bulkhead by the Hiab. I will also have a "non fixed" fairlead o nthe winch that travels with the direction of pull because on any given day the winch could be pulling in any angle off the spool to about 180 degrees. I have the fairlead assembly and integrated LARGE tail roller (like on oilfield trucks at the rear of the bed). This design/ build is FUN!!!!

Here is a pic of the 550 (blue, about to be white) and the older truck the Hiab came off of (GMC HD3500) The locust in the pic is the biggest and heaviest locust I have ever had here. Likely about 4500-5000lbs. The Hiab only weighs 535KG (1100lbs) but lifts 5500lbs

Ironwood · « **Reply #77 on:** May 21, 2011, 11:23:23 pm »

OK, here are some pics. of my log bed and crane on the "new" to me 550. I did NOT get the DDLL, or "headache poles" as one earlier poster mentioned mounted to the "axle" pictured in the first photo (schedule 120 3" pipe). My metal bandsaw blew a transmission gear, and I needed to get some BIG walnut logs out of a yard (see Urban logging section for those pics). In the other pics, notice the movable standards, which depending on how many logs across I go, can be flipped to stay tight to the logs (narrowest being 33", or widest 90"), fourth pic down shows standard used at the horizontal to satisfy DOT conspicuity tape requirement. Also, internally wired 3/4" marker lights on each box tube. There is a 12,000lb Ramsey at the rear, and a stainless schedule 80 4" roller made with old Oliver jointer bearings (I cant throw things away for things just such as this

kinda makes my way of living justified). The standards have integrated D Rings and jamb bolts welded right to them. The whole thing is low profile so my military Duece bed can still be mounted as needed. One pics shows me hanging the boy's new basketball hoop this weekend. I still need to fabricate the bulkhead protecter and roof rack above the cab, that will include another Ramsey (9000#). Removable fenders are offf an Army M200 gen trailer, and the rest of the parts reads like a "Sanford and Sons" list

from just about ANYTHING imaginable.

Ironwood

Red Pill · « **Reply #78 on:** November 13, 2011, 08:10:11 am »

Might be a foolish question, but how are all of you with a deadheader lifter removing logs from the trailer? I'm going to be in a situation without a tractor or other powered lifting setup. I will usually be able to get logs placed on the trailer, although I'll be building a deadheader in the future. But how are you getting the logs off?

Thanks in advance from a newbie.

zopi · « **Reply #79 on:** November 13, 2011, 08:19:25 am »

Chain run to a tree or deadman in the ground and drive out from under them...

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #80 on:** November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 am »

If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

metalspinner · « **Reply #81 on:** November 13, 2011, 10:05:32 am »

Red Pill,
It's my understanding that you use the deadheader in reverse. Loop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Welcome to the forum!

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #82 on:** November 13, 2011, 10:28:49 am »

Quote

Loop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Exactly.

beenthere · « **Reply #83 on:** November 13, 2011, 10:45:41 am »

Red Pill
Welcome to the forum.

Marc Thornton · « **Reply #84 on:** November 13, 2011, 11:25:00 am »

The method posted here: http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,17613.msg364685.html#msg364685

It uses a snatch block up 7' high in a tree. Then you use the trailers winch to winch it off. Pictures included in that link.

Probably best to read the whole thread from front to back.

zopi · « **Reply #85 on:** November 13, 2011, 12:41:27 pm »

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 am

If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

Spoilsport.

Red Pill · « **Reply #86 on:** November 13, 2011, 09:19:05 pm »

Quote from: metalspinner on November 13, 2011, 10:05:32 am

Red Pill,
It's my understanding that you use the deadheader in reverse. Loop the log with the deadheader pointed towards the front, then run the winch and pull/lift off the back.

Welcome to the forum!

Something's missing. I presume you have to have a block attached somewhere behind the trailer (as in the tree in Marc's post).

Thanks for the welcome. I'm learning a lot here already.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #87 on:** November 14, 2011, 06:14:35 pm »

Nothing missing. If you have the arch over-centered toward the front of the trailer, and the arch tied off so it can't tip all the way over, as you put the cable around the log, say, half way near the center of the log, and take up on the winch, it will start to lift the log and then snake it off the trailer.

Obviously, it won't come clear of the end of the trailer, but, just under balancing the log, you can pull on the cable while letting off on the winch, and get much farther off the trailer.

Takes a little thinking- planning, or you get bound up.

Red Pill · « **Reply #88 on:** November 15, 2011, 02:24:25 pm »

Okay. Thanks for the clarification.

Okrafarmer · « **Reply #89 on:** February 20, 2012, 04:31:15 am »

Quote from: Dan_Shade on November 13, 2011, 09:50:15 am

If you are tying against a tree and dragging the trailer out from under the log, be sure to use a binder of some sort to let the load off of the chain, or you will end up with a log on the ground with a chain too tight to let the hooks off. (don't ask me how I learned this....)

Only a problem for really huge logs. Otherwise just kick the chain in the middle, and it will loosen. If that doesn't work, tug on it with your hands, sideways, loosening it. If that doesn't work, you have a really huge log, and you may need to roll it sideways a couple times, back and forth, with a peavey until you get the chain loose. Or pry the chain off the end of the log, using the peavey.

Okrafarmer · « **Reply #90 on:** February 20, 2012, 04:34:09 am »

I used an I-beam system with my GMC 2500, it was too complicated and heavy. I wish I had known about this then. I used a come-along and a trolley on the overhead I-beam. That was about 6 or 7 years ago.

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