Author Topic: Directional felling (Read 9227 times)

Larry · « **Reply #20 on:** March 30, 2004, 03:21:26 pm »

Never had much luck with cutting one side of the hinge early. Did think about putting in a dutchman on one side to swing the tree as it was about half way down which might have worked but didn’t want to take a chance on splinter pull. Your right – every stump has a story and I study them all. Here is the one that did in the walnut.

Kevin · « **Reply #21 on:** March 30, 2004, 04:48:32 pm »

The hinge looks narrow and not very high but it might be the picture.
That hinge just by looking at the picture would have broke early without much left to control the initial fall of the tree.
There also appears to be more sapwood on one side.

Did it fall in the direction of the arrow?

Preston · « **Reply #22 on:** March 30, 2004, 04:54:51 pm »

Thanks For The Warm Welcome Guys!
Thats a good point always study the stump! If you make a mistake look to see if there was any mistakes at the stump! For one thing that i always had a problem when useing my gunning sites is keeping my bar level and trust me the longer the bar the harder it ! First cut wether it be humbolt or face cut make sure your bar is level on both cuts! I had a hard time with this but later found out it is important in big wood exspecaily when you have to start your face cut with a 36" bar and then slide the 60" bar in too finish the cutt! And practice it makes almost perfect I learn everyday I'm out there! Oh and Rob well that was exciting but now I'm a married man and got to see all I wanted to see but one thing I do miss and thats fallen up in Alaska Southeastern! Loved up there! Put my skills to the test! Gunning sites helped me allot! But remember always keep an open mind my father always told me and you can learn alot! Thanks again guys for the welcome!
Preston

redpowerd · « **Reply #23 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:03:00 pm »

Quote

tried putting in the bottom cut first yesterday and today.

i was referring to cutting the bottom last, so you can see down your angle cut and match your corners with your bar, seemd to work for me, dont think ill go back, unless i forget to change my habit.

cutting out more of the hinge on one side is usually a last second decision, if you see the tree start to tip somewhere it aint supposed to go. sometimes you need it for a messed up notch, if its not aimin right, then you plan on removing more of one side of the hinge to compensate.

im with kevin,
i think mabie your backcut was a litte low, larry.
but whats with the sapwood concern?

Kevin · « **Reply #24 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:04:55 pm »

Red;
The sapwood isn't uniform on both sides and it will affect the hinge.

redpowerd · « **Reply #25 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:10:43 pm »

makes sense to me, is that one that may need compensation from a angled hinge?

Kevin · « **Reply #26 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:33:43 pm »

All depends on where you want it to lay.
It almost looks like the felling cut was made too fast and without any hinge left the tree could have gone just about anywhere.
It's not the easiest thing to do but the more you do the easier it gets.
You really need to slow down, pay attention to the cut... where it is and when to stop.

Larry · « **Reply #27 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:39:09 pm »

I thought the hinge was a little wide at about one inch but with RO the hinge width is not too critical as they don’t like to barber chair or pull splinters. As far as the sapwood how would you ever know until the tree is on the ground?

If that tree had been a walnut the hinge width would have only been about 1/4" and the center would be bored out with ears on the side.

You know the hinge is working if the tree never falls off the stump.

WO that came down this morning. Cut the holding wood a little low but I was holding the saw over my head to cut it as I was on steep ground.

Cutting open face notches so that may make a difference.

Kevin · « **Reply #28 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:44:22 pm »

Larry;
Thanks for letting me pick your stump apart.

It's good to have these pictures and considering I wasn't there I'm just second guessing.
Did you force the tree over or did it fall on its own?
That looks like a conventional cut to me.

Quote

As far as the sapwood how would you ever know until the tree is on the ground?

Take a gander inside the notch.
Brush the sawdust off the bottom and you should see what's waiting for you.

Larry · « **Reply #29 on:** March 30, 2004, 05:58:06 pm »

Kevin,
The tree went in the exact direction of your arrow but it was not because of the sapwood. There was a lot more weight on that side of the tree because of limbs which I thought I had compensated for with the sights on the saw.

I’m logging for the next couple of weeks so I’ll try almost anything and tell you how it works out.

Kevin · « **Reply #30 on:** March 30, 2004, 06:05:52 pm »

If there was a larger hinge the sapwood would have been more of a factor.
I just wanted to point it out because your picture gives a good illustration of the variation in the sapwood.

Larry · « **Reply #31 on:** March 30, 2004, 06:07:08 pm »

And for you Kevin I will take some more stump pictures for you to pick on. In all honesty cutting trees is serious business and maybe we can all learn something.

Kevin · « **Reply #32 on:** March 30, 2004, 06:09:35 pm »

Good stuff!

Kevin · « **Reply #33 on:** March 31, 2004, 04:42:50 am »

Quote

I thought I had compensated for with the sights on the saw.

Larry, I understand this to read you wanted to compensate by changing the natural direction of fall by altering the gun past where you wanted to drop the tree.
I think that's a very common mistake.
If this is the case, you shouldn't.
Keep the gun in line with the lay and alter the hinge to turn the tree.
How much you alter the hinge will affect how much you turn it.

redpowerd · « **Reply #34 on:** April 06, 2004, 03:08:52 pm »

larry, got anymore stump pictures. like to see some in relation to where the tree landed.

went out with a buddy to cut wood yesterday, goes up to a tree and just 360s around the base and the tree falls

i told him if he needs me, ill be in earshot ;Don the other side of the woods

David_c · « **Reply #35 on:** April 06, 2004, 05:55:07 pm »

and i'd be right behind you redpower with cellphone and first aid kit at the ready

Larry · « **Reply #36 on:** April 06, 2004, 06:44:15 pm »

Red,
Cutting 360 is very common around here. Sometimes you leave 3 or 4 legs. Tree falls were ever it wants to go. The logger has to be very fast on his feet (and lucky).

Cut a bunch of black locust Sunday. Trees were small but 60' tall and had to put them all into a hole so they wouldn’t hang up. Hauled most of them home but might be able to get a couple pictures of the few that are left later this week.

If it doesn’t rain, I’ll cut ya a walnut tomorrow and take plenty of pics. It will give Kevin something to pick on but I enjoy it as that as how we all learn.

rebocardo · « **Reply #37 on:** April 07, 2004, 01:05:36 am »

> Cutting 360 is very common around here

Never heard of it. Do you make the tree look like a beaver ate it?

Mike_Barcaskey · « **Reply #38 on:** April 07, 2004, 04:45:49 am »

Kevin, I heard and read the 1/3 rule for cutting the notch many times, but never haveI heard a reason. why?
What is bad about cutting close to 1/2, not over
premature falling?

BTW I find it easier to cut top of the notch first

Ianab · « **Reply #39 on:** April 07, 2004, 05:16:17 am »

360 degree falling... is that the possible range of directions the tree can fall?

Lets go trying that on 4ft diameter trees.. a new extreme sport is born... at least temporarily

ian

P.S. I like to cut the top cut of the notch first, makes it easier to peer in and see where your second cut is at. Especially if the notch is 30 inches long and your bar is 20"

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Author Topic: Directional felling (Read 9227 times)