New bar/chain question

[FarmerGrant]

Well there has been alot of talk about chains lately, but I didn't feel like hyjacking someone else's post.

The other day I was cutting put some pallets, and found a nail.  Derailed the chain, and dinged it up so it won't fit in the bar anymore.  I havn't looked real close at the bar, anything specific I should look for?  Is it okay to file the guides (probably not the correct name for them) on the chain, so they will fit in the bar again?  Or should I just get a new chain?

I'm running a Husky 353 with 20" bar.  I have been looking at getting a 16" for it.  Will I notice faster cutting?  Would it be worth it to get the 16", or just stick with my 20"?  I very sledem need the whole 20".  I buck alot of firewood, that is 90% of what I use the saw for.  Will I miss that extra 4"?  Will my back hate me for having to bend over that exta bit?

I'm happy with how the 20" cuts, but it could always be faster.  I'm by no means a professional sawyer.  But I do cut 15-20 cords a year. 

I was looking on Baileys and they're having a special on a 18" Carlton Narrow Curf Bar and Chain Combo for $19.95.  Not exactly what I was looking for. 

I was looking at getting the 16" ArborPRO narrow kerf bar with  WoodsmanPRO™ 20NK chain.  Is that a good choice for my uses?

I do haul the saw on my 4 wheeler and snowmobile sometimes, the 16" would be nice there.

Maybe I should look into a bow bar?

Any opinions/thoughs are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

[Al_Smith]

 Yes you can straighten out the drivers and reuse the chain.A derail often bends a couple of them.Just put the chain in a vice and take the kink out then you may have to touch it up with a file.

That bar and chain certainly sound cheap enough.A 16" on a small saw would cut faster,but not that much.

 I might also add that 15 to 20 cords of wood is no small amount,just to heat a house.Are you in Alaska,by any chance.

[sawguy21]

That seems a bunch of work considering the low cost of a new chain. I would replace it, don't want to see it fail. Have a good look at the bar rails, they are probably damaged in one or two spots. You can probgably dress them on a table disc sander.

[rebocardo]

Considering a new chain is < $12 from Bailey's I would not bother fixing the old chain unless fixing it meant taking out the old links and cutters and putting new ones in. Derail can be bad enough, if you lose a link that chain can really whip back at you. I got hit in the neck once and I was mighty glad for the chain catcher because it happened so quick, it was over before I realized something happened.

All I had time for was to reach up and make sure my neck was not bleeding after getting hit by something, then I noticed the chain on the ground. Luckily all that happened was my shirt was a little worse for the wear. Probably would have gotten it in the face if I was not off to the side of the saw while cutting.

The other thing is, can you really fix it well enough so it rides in the groove 100% straight? If not you will cause a lot of wear to the bar (imo) and cause early chain or bar failure.

[Bill]

As I get older I get more carefuler when I remember to that is. If the new chains are cheap why not spring for it - you'd never forgive yourself if that old chain failed ( where you hit the nail ) just as you lean over to check out the bar.

Good Luck

[SawTroll]

Most 3 cube saws, including the 353, are at their best with narrow kerf 15-16" bars. Longer bars will slow them down somewhat, and make them unbalanced.

I suggest that you buy a 16" NK bar, and keep the longer bar for the occations were it is really needed.

The chain in the package offered in the link has been reported to be a "safety" chain of the worst kind, with humped tie-straps. 
The Oregon 95VP is a smooth (anti-vibe)and fast-cutting NK chain. I have never used Carton/Woodsmanpro, but they do not have the anti-vibe chassis as far as I know.

[Rocky_J]

Jeez guys, it's just a burred drive tooth. Grab your raker file and smooth off the burrs enough for the chain to fit in the bar again. Once you have it reassembled and fire up the saw, the spinning of the chain will quickly smooth off any remaining rough spots. Go back to cutting.
 

[logwalker]

I might be Scotch-Italian but I would never throw that chain. I would lay it on a steel dolly or the anvil and take a ball peen hammer to the tangs and then dress with a file. 

[wiam]

I agree with the last two.  Having run saws for over 20 years I think I have had very few chains break.  They usually end up in a pile under the saw.  Strighten it enought o go around and run it.

Will

[sawguy21]

Sorry guys, for the cost of a new chain, I won't consider straightening a bent one. Cleaning up a few burred drivers is o.k. but I would be on edge waiting for it to wrap itself around my leg.

[FarmerGrant]

Thanks guys, I'll take a closer look at it and if any of the links are bent, I'll toss the chain. 

[cnl390]

Most 3 cube saws, including the 353, are at their best with narrow kerf 15-16" bars. Longer bars will slow them down somewhat, and make them unbalanced.

I suggest that you buy a 16" NK bar, and keep the longer bar for the occations were it is really needed.

The chain in the package offered in the link has been reported to be a "safety" chain of the worst kind, with humped tie-straps. 
The Oregon 95VP is a smooth (anti-vibe)and fast-cutting NK chain. I have never used Carton/Woodsmanpro, but they do not have the anti-vibe chassis as far as I know.

Which brand NK bar would you suggest for the 353?  Also, I went to Oregon's web site and then to their online dealer to buy a 20" loop and was told that the 20" 95vp 78G was a special order size.  (I'm not that savvy about this kind of stuff that's why I'm asking so many questions of the experts)  I assume a 16" loop would be a 95VP 16 78G?

[SawTroll]

From Oregon, I suggest the Micro-lite Pro bar 160MPBK095 and 95VP 066G chain.

I am sure that Carlton also has a suitable 16" bar.
Baileys will sure be able to help you.
I think they call them Arbor Pro, but I do not have the part number.

[Max sawdust]

From Oregon, I suggest the Micro-lite Pro bar 160MPBK095 and 95VP 066G chain.

I am sure that Carlton also has a suitable 16" bar.
Baileys will sure be able to help you.
I think they call them Arbor Pro, but I do not have the part number.

I have been running the above suggested combo from Oregon for a year on a 346.  Very smooth and fast. 
I did see a narrow kerf bar chain combo offered by baileys, interested in trying it some time.
Max

[cnl390]

Thanks for the help.  It sure is a good feeling to have a place for us novices to ask questions and receive good informed answers from pros who really know what they are talking about. 

[snowman]

If your drivers not messed up to bad you can put the chain on real loose, rev the saw up a few times and the bar will take the burr off for you. Bar steel is designed to be way harder than chain steel so it won't hurt the bar.

[SawTroll]

From Baileys (Carlton stuff I think), the 16" ArborPRO NK bar for the small Huskys is APNK 16 SJ50. and the WoodsmanPRO chain is WPLK 16 20NK66

I have not tried this stuff, and as I said, I don't think the chain has the anti-vibe feature that the 95VP has.

[Alta]

15 - 20 CORDS per YEAR??? That seems like a lotta wood to me - I only cut what I need to heat my house - never got into selling. But that seems like that would make you pretty experienced with a saw. Anyway Ive filed my drive links when I did the same thing while cutting brush rather indiscriminately with my 044 - I was being a little impatient. So the drive liinks were pretty dinged up and I filed them a bit and got every bit of life outtta that chain. Plus yer just using a Husky..... ]