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Author Topic: Filing depth guages  (Read 2207 times)

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Offline beenthere

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Re: Filing depth guages
« Reply #20 on: February 10, 2006, 10:20:16 am »
sawtroll
How much modification was needed? I widened the rear slots slightly so the guide would slip down over the rivet but I did not change the depth of the slots. I thought that might be necessary, but on the initial use on a 'near-worn-out' chain, the file dropped into position about exactly as my hand-filing up to that point. I found my hand filing had a slightly different profile right to left that was 'corrected' using the rolling guide. I found that the file could be used easily with one hand while the other holds the guide. When free-hand filing, I use both hands on the file to try to keep angle, depth, and pressure the same for each tooth. With the rolling guide, the rollers seemed to handle the variables quite well. But the jury is still out, as I have tried many a 'guide' only to go back to free-hand filing as the preferred way for quickness and results.

Snowing now, so will plow instead of cut a tree down this am.
Oh, the Husky dealer had this guide, but seemed to have had them for a loooong time, as they were on stock that was pretty faded, and they had 'no idea' how to use them or if they even worked.  For $8.42, I decided time to find out.  :)
south central Wisconsin
 It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Offline Larry

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Re: Filing depth guages
« Reply #21 on: February 10, 2006, 02:01:18 pm »
The Husky roller thingy is for Husky chain...which I believe? is just re-badged Oregon chain.  The roller thing works just like training wheels on a bicycle...I've used it to train couple of guys to hand file.  Once they get the angles down they won't use the roller thing much more.  Maybe to clean up a chain if they get off a little.

The raker guide is great...I use it all the time.  Even got a modified one for our walnut.  .030 is too much and cause's the chain to vibrate while .027 is perfect.  Sorta like what I did before I got the guide...just give the raker an extra lick or two. ;D

   

Larry

Nine out of ten trees recommend wood for your building project.

Offline SawTroll

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Re: Filing depth guages
« Reply #22 on: February 16, 2006, 02:57:56 am »
sawtroll
How much modification was needed? I widened the rear slots slightly so the guide would slip down over the rivet but I did not change the depth of the slots. I thought that might be necessary, but on the initial use on a 'near-worn-out' chain, the file dropped into position about exactly as my hand-filing up to that point. ....

Just keep an eye on it, and only adjust the slöts when you see it is appropriate. The need depends on the file size you use, and if the chain is new or worn.
When you eventually try it on a new Stihl chain, you will probaby see the need to deepen the front slots slightly.
Glens modifications are a way to make the guide work right for the whole lenght of the teeth, chain after chain..... 8)
Firewood saws: Jonsereds Raket 621 (1970), Husky 353G, Stihl MS361W, Husky 372xpg, New Edition Husky 339xp, Dolmar PS5100SH, New Edition Husky 346xpg, Jonsered 2153WH, Husky 560xpg.

Offline Snag

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Re: Filing depth guages
« Reply #23 on: February 22, 2006, 12:42:47 pm »
Dan- I also have a 511A, didnt realize you could grind the rakers down with it.... how do you do that?  I thought you had to put a depth guage and do it by hand.

 


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