Author Topic: Filing depth guages (Read 2207 times)

ksu_chainsaw · « **on:** January 17, 2006, 09:37:29 pm »

Is there a machine out there that will grind the chain rakers down? I use a Stihl grinder to sharpen my chains, and then every 2-3 sharpenings, I get out the depth guage and hand file the rakers down. That is getting a little time consuming, as I have been either cutting hedge firewood, or using my 36"bar- lots of rakers.

Thanks

Charles

Rocky_J · « **Reply #1 on:** January 17, 2006, 10:10:57 pm »

New files work much better than old files. I usually go to Home Depot and pick up two or three 6" files every so often. They are cheap, toss them when they quit cutting. When the rakers need lowering, two swipes on each raker is usually adequate to get them where they need to be. If you are observant and take the same amount off each raker, then stopping to measure each one is usually unneccessary.

tawilson · « **Reply #2 on:** January 18, 2006, 12:27:43 pm »

Silvey makes one. Baileys' doesn't have it on their site, but you could call, they may have it or can get one.

Corley5 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 18, 2006, 12:57:25 pm »

Can you get a square stone for your grinder to do the rakers

Grande Dog · « **Reply #4 on:** January 18, 2006, 03:34:47 pm »

We sell the Silvey HDG-6 raker grinder. They sell for $499.95 and are in stock.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #5 on:** January 18, 2006, 04:30:10 pm »

I can do rakers with my Oregon 511A

then again, I think a file is a faster way to sharpen a chain, all things considered.

Woodhog · « **Reply #6 on:** January 18, 2006, 06:19:16 pm »

http://www.forestapps.com/pferd/pferdtool.htm

The above link has a tool that takes the rakers down as you file the chain, I ordered one but didnt receive it yet so I dont know if its any good, the idea is great..

I find filing rakers the worst job of my whole logging operation, sometimes I just use my 4 inch hand grinder and swipe at them....then hold on tight to the saw.,..

Rocky_J · « **Reply #7 on:** January 18, 2006, 06:51:13 pm »

I was thinking about this thread today. Got a semi-new .325" Carlton chain on my 346XP. Reading the forums the general consensus is that the rakers are a bit high on this chain and they must be lowered pretty much from the first or second sharpening. My experience confirmed this (I've never owned a raker gauge so I couldn't actually measuer them). Grabbed my 6" flat file out it's sleeve in the toolbox and set the saw on the tailgate. About 90 seconds to hit the rakers on the 18 left-hand teeth and another 90 seconds to hit the rakers on the right-hand teeth and I was good to go. My first couple cuts confirmed that the 2 strokes I took on each raker was just about the perfect amount because the saw cut beautifully.

I know many people seem to be afraid of hand files for some reason. They spend hundreds of dollars on machines to grind chains and never bother learning how to hand file. I agree that filing the teeth takes a certain knack, but the only thing you do on rakers is file them down flat and take the same amount off each raker. All I ask is that each of you buy a $3 flat file before investing hundreds of dollars on a special grinder to lower rakers. It's way too simple to require all that expense.

Corley5 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 18, 2006, 07:35:50 pm »

I've always used a file. Just take the same same amount off each raker by making the same length of file stroke on each one. I just bought a grinder to do processor chains to speed things up. It's time consuming to file away frozen mud damage

timberjack240 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 18, 2006, 07:43:36 pm »

just watch you dont get em to short i know a guy that di that and snapped the end of the crank off thats takes a lot though

Dale Hatfield · « **Reply #10 on:** January 18, 2006, 08:02:21 pm »

Husky sells
a depth gage tool that i really like over others.
Their tool allows the depth gage to be filled per each tooth. Unlike other tools that take an average of 2 or 3 teeth pending on style of chain you are running.
Its a very small tool fits in a pocket. Has 2 settings one for soft wood and one for hard wood.

Dale

wiam · « **Reply #11 on:** January 18, 2006, 08:16:05 pm »

I'm with the filers. I learned to file in the woods. Takes time to learn but it is worth it. I am pretty sure I can file a chain quicker than I could change it, and then it would still need to be ground.

Will

Button · « **Reply #12 on:** January 19, 2006, 03:01:46 am »

I just put on a 1/4 inch wheel. adjust the stop and I know they are all the same height. I measure the rakers with a vernier caliper. Takes a little practice to achieve consistant results. so far it works for me. enjoy

Blake22 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 19, 2006, 08:08:55 am »

I've got a toolbox with every gadget made for sharpening (some weren't cheap) but I always use a file on the teeth & the rakers. I wasted a lot of money on all that other crap.

SawTroll · « **Reply #14 on:** January 20, 2006, 09:23:31 am »

Quote from: Dale Hatfield on January 18, 2006, 08:02:21 pm

"Husky sells
a depth gage tool that i really like over others
Their tool allows the depth gage to be filled per each tooth. Unlike other tools that take an average of 2 or 3 teeth pending on style of chain you are running.
Its a very small tool fits in a pocket. Has 2 settings one for soft wood and one for hard wood... ."

I agree, that gauge takes the guesswork out of it, but of course it adds a few seconds to the prosess....

One version of it is the combo roller guide/raker guide, and the roller guide also takes the guesswork out of filing the teeth themselves.

rebocardo · « **Reply #15 on:** January 20, 2006, 10:53:52 am »

fwiw

On some chain (72v versions and 91) you really should not file the rakers and on some they can not be filed flat. I learned that the hard way, when reading the Oregon site to find out why the chain cut so poorly after I took the rakers down to the .025 as it said on the box (general instructions I guess).

tony_marks · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2006, 05:57:29 pm »

getting dept gauges rite is not that easy for me.
just got thru taking about 10 chains to .25 . i used an feeler gauge and stihl flat file.
a chain just dont cut smooth if the depths vary even a little.at least thats my experience.

beenthere · « **Reply #17 on:** February 09, 2006, 09:10:44 pm »

Sawtroll

I just picked up one of these Husqvarna combo roller guide/raker guides today, and tried it out tonight on one nearly worn-out Stihl 3/8" chain, but it seemed to work well (after I filed a bit on the guide to get it to fit down on the chain). Also, the individual raker guide seemed to work well too, using a flat file, and didn't take much time. I will try it out tomorrow to see how this chain cuts. I've been satisfied with my hand filing, but was curious what this would do after hearing about it.

Kevin · « **Reply #18 on:** February 10, 2006, 07:41:29 am »

The Oregon roller guides are for Oregon chain, the results will be different on other chain.

SawTroll · « **Reply #19 on:** February 10, 2006, 08:59:27 am »

Quote from: Kevin on February 10, 2006, 07:41:29 am

The Oregon roller guides are for Oregon chain, the results will be different on other chain.

True, but the blue one can be modified to fit RS/RSC/RM in 3/8".
Another one can probably be modified for RS/RM/RMC in .325 also, but I have not tried that.

beenthere · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2006, 10:20:16 am »

sawtroll
How much modification was needed? I widened the rear slots slightly so the guide would slip down over the rivet but I did not change the depth of the slots. I thought that might be necessary, but on the initial use on a 'near-worn-out' chain, the file dropped into position about exactly as my hand-filing up to that point. I found my hand filing had a slightly different profile right to left that was 'corrected' using the rolling guide. I found that the file could be used easily with one hand while the other holds the guide. When free-hand filing, I use both hands on the file to try to keep angle, depth, and pressure the same for each tooth. With the rolling guide, the rollers seemed to handle the variables quite well. But the jury is still out, as I have tried many a 'guide' only to go back to free-hand filing as the preferred way for quickness and results.

Snowing now, so will plow instead of cut a tree down this am.
Oh, the Husky dealer had this guide, but seemed to have had them for a loooong time, as they were on stock that was pretty faded, and they had 'no idea' how to use them or if they even worked. For $8.42, I decided time to find out.

Larry · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2006, 02:01:18 pm »

The Husky roller thingy is for Husky chain...which I believe? is just re-badged Oregon chain. The roller thing works just like training wheels on a bicycle...I've used it to train couple of guys to hand file. Once they get the angles down they won't use the roller thing much more. Maybe to clean up a chain if they get off a little.

The raker guide is great...I use it all the time. Even got a modified one for our walnut. .030 is too much and cause's the chain to vibrate while .027 is perfect. Sorta like what I did before I got the guide...just give the raker an extra lick or two.

SawTroll · « **Reply #22 on:** February 16, 2006, 02:57:56 am »

Quote from: beenthere on February 10, 2006, 10:20:16 am

sawtroll
How much modification was needed? I widened the rear slots slightly so the guide would slip down over the rivet but I did not change the depth of the slots. I thought that might be necessary, but on the initial use on a 'near-worn-out' chain, the file dropped into position about exactly as my hand-filing up to that point. ....

Just keep an eye on it, and only adjust the slöts when you see it is appropriate. The need depends on the file size you use, and if the chain is new or worn.
When you eventually try it on a new Stihl chain, you will probaby see the need to deepen the front slots slightly.
Glens modifications are a way to make the guide work right for the whole lenght of the teeth, chain after chain.....

Snag · « **Reply #23 on:** February 22, 2006, 12:42:47 pm »

Dan- I also have a 511A, didnt realize you could grind the rakers down with it.... how do you do that? I thought you had to put a depth guage and do it by hand.

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Author Topic: Filing depth guages (Read 2207 times)