Author Topic: 12 V Auto starters used for other applications- modified to accept pully (Read 3225 times)

woodbowl · « **on:** January 13, 2006, 02:39:52 am »

Mr Hootie told me today that some starters have 2 bearings and some have 3. The ones with 3 bearings can be modified to accept a pully. The nose cone needs to be cut off and the bendix gear taken out. What remains are 2 bearings to keep the armature aligned, leaving an extended shaft. A starter motor is not a continous duty motor by any means, but there are many potential applications such as bumping a live deck and winch type projects galore. They are cheap and available.
Before I start taking starters apart, I need to know which starters have the 3 bearings. Does anyone know what engine and vehicle these type starters would be on?

highpockets · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2006, 05:44:30 am »

I am going to put my two cents worth in but have not delt with many starters in years. I think that they may be a Dodge starter. I know they used to run a reduction gear and that is why I am thinking they have more than two bearings. A suggestion is to used a Lovejoy Coupling between the starter hydraulic pump or whatever drive you plan to use. Enco has them pretty reasonable.

Another thing is you may need solenoids. I managed to buy either 8 or 10 of them on Ebay for some $1.50 each.

isassi · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2006, 08:03:36 am »

Once you remove the "nose" of the starter, I don't know of any I have seen with 3 bearings. The best by my guess for what you are going to do is the old Ford style without the mounted solonoid. They used actual bearings instead of bushings on some models and seemed to be indestructable.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2006, 08:20:48 am »

Check out a Tomy lift motor. They may have the extra bearing you need, or just get a spare end cap for the other end and grind or drill a hole to line up with the bearing there. The motor on the hydraulic pump of my Woodmizer has a sealed ball bearing in the end cap.

jpgreen · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2006, 09:18:24 am »

I built an electric bike out of a Ford 60's vintage starter with a straight shaft back when I was a kid. That starter took a beating, and I don't remember it ever failing.

woodbowl · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2006, 10:04:56 am »

Quote from: joasis on January 13, 2006, 08:03:36 am

my guess for what you are going to do is the old Ford style without the mounted solonoid. They used actual bearings instead of bushings on some models and seemed to be indestructable.

That is the type starter that I'm talking about. The nose cone may have a bushing but the other two are roller bearings. What year model Ford?

Quote from: Minnesota_boy on January 13, 2006, 08:20:48 am

.......... or just get a spare end cap for the other end and grind or drill a hole to line up with the bearing there.

That's the problem. Cutting off the nose cone, realigning it and welding it back straight. The tip bushing has proven to be a good enough bearing so reusing it and placing it closer to the housing should not be a problem. I would be more concerned with welding aluminum and making sure things are straight. I may could get away with trying to shim the armature all the way around and then weld it together. Does this sound like a good idea?
If not, what are some other old truck starters that may work?

isassi · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2006, 10:18:03 am »

I know for sure that style startes is on the older ('60s) vintage Ford inline 6 engines and they did not have a nose cone, but rather a long output shaft the bendix gear attached to. They worked on inertia rather then a solonoid mechanically pulling them into the ring gear. good luck.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2006, 01:35:54 pm »

Quote from: woodbowl on January 13, 2006, 10:04:56 am

That's the problem. Cutting off the nose cone, realigning it and welding it back straight. The tip bushing has proven to be a good enough bearing so reusing it and placing it closer to the housing should not be a problem. I would be more concerned with welding aluminum and making sure things are straight. I may could get away with trying to shim the armature all the way around and then weld it together. Does this sound like a good idea?

You mistook my information.

What I was suggesting was that the back end cap could be modified to slip over the long shaft after the nose cone was removed and bolted to that end of the starter, so it now would have 2 back ends, only one back end would be on the front, modified so the shaft could just go on through it and stick out. Clear as mud?

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2006, 02:36:08 pm »

Hey wod bowl.those old fords dont need to be swapped....I have one powering the winch dor turning logs on the carriage.......but I like the idea of using other starters that way..good idea....I was not even 4 miles from Mr Hootie yesterday

Jason_WI · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2006, 03:45:16 pm »

I believe this is the starter you are looking for:

FORD-TRACTOR-STARTER

Also make sure the solinoid you buy is rated for continous use. Most starter solinoids are rated for intermittent use only.

Jason

P.S: I put the url link around it but the link is still long

getoverit · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2006, 04:08:30 pm »

Can the polarity be reversed on starter motors in order to reverse the direction? If so, does anybody have any diagrams/info/pictures on how this is done?

DanG · « **Reply #11 on:** January 13, 2006, 04:42:40 pm »

I think you can, but keep in mind that the housing is usually the negative side of the circuit, so you'd need to isolate it from the rest of your framework.

Dale Hatfield · « **Reply #12 on:** January 13, 2006, 04:50:17 pm »

I got into this same kind of discussion at work today .
Getoverit. I would think that it can could be done. This is what we came up with. A power window on your truck door. It spins foward and back. But I believe it has what might be called a floating ground.
I had an old sled trailer that had a power dove tail on it. ............... Ok now i remember. It had a power steering pump mounted to a starter motor that powered dove tail up and down.

Dale

getoverit · « **Reply #13 on:** January 13, 2006, 07:38:10 pm »

I wasnt sure if starters could be run in reverse because of the brushes. I'm not even sure if starters still have brushes??? It's been forever since I've had to change out a starter. If you need something smaller, I understand that 12V starters for small engines are pretty inexpensive too.

woodbowl · « **Reply #14 on:** January 13, 2006, 08:28:06 pm »

Quote from: Buzz-sawyer on January 13, 2006, 02:36:08 pm

....I was not even 4 miles from Mr Hootie yesterday

Sorry I missed you and Kirk at DanGs. I was just down the road sawing 34" poplar. I thought yall' were still at Toms so I headed home. ................ DanG and me went to Hooties yesterday and got some ideas about all this. Next time, ya got to go to Mr Hooties!

wiam · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2006, 09:03:08 pm »

Somewhere I read that you could isolate the brush hooked to the case just like the other ones, then hook the other wire to that.

Will

dail_h · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2006, 09:41:37 pm »

I wantta go to Mr Hooties, Can I go to Mr hooties ? Please ,I'll be good Can I pleeeeeeeeeeeease?

junkyard · « **Reply #17 on:** January 14, 2006, 11:52:09 am »

I looked last night but couldn't find the page, but somewhere on the web iis a guy making a hydraulic power unit from a starter. he turned a new end bell so the shat stuck out in the open.
Junkyard

highpockets · « **Reply #18 on:** January 14, 2006, 06:28:03 pm »

To reverse the motor you only need to reverse either the armature or the field coils.

freddycougar · « **Reply #19 on:** January 14, 2006, 10:59:15 pm »

hipockets is correct, changing the field in relationship to the armature will change the direction .....

freddy

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Author Topic: 12 V Auto starters used for other applications- modified to accept pully (Read 3225 times)