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Author Topic: why the chainsaw bar gets bend  (Read 2949 times)

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Offline SawTroll

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Re: why the chainsaw bar gets bend
« Reply #40 on: January 12, 2006, 07:56:06 am »
Dale, I agree with you that it is as simple as you describe it when you start the process with an assambled saw (except that you should hold the tip of the bar up when adjusting tension, and retightening the nuts), but that was not really what was discussed here.

The downside of Stihls "bolt and collar" or "stepped bar bolt" system show up when the cutting attachment has been removed from the saw for maintenence (or whatever reason), or if the bar nuts has been loosened past a certain point.....

Firewood saws: Jonsereds Raket 621 (1970), Husky 353G, Stihl MS361W, Husky 372xpg, New Edition Husky 339xp, Dolmar PS5100SH, New Edition Husky 346xpg, Jonsered 2153WH, Husky 560xpg.

Offline maple flats

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Re: why the chainsaw bar gets bend
« Reply #41 on: January 15, 2006, 09:56:23 pm »
Also make sure you wear leather or other cut resistant gloves while holding the chained bar up to tighten. A properly sharpened chain will make a real nasty cut that is hard to heal because it is very ragged. Caution please.
logging small time for years but just learning how, with a Forest stewardship plan, 2 compact Ford 4x4 tractors, 3point log arch, 8000# class excavator, lifts 2500# and sets logs on mill precisely where needed,  Peterson ATS upgraded to WPF mill, sugar maple/maple syrup a hobby gone amuck.

 


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