Handy sawmill tricks or things I've just come to know.

[Bibbyman]

You know when you’ve had a blade break and tangles itself all up in the blade housing and it’s still sticking though the cant how hard it is to get the blade out or back the head up or anything?

We’ll we’ve went to cutting the blade on one or both sides of the cant.  This lets us run the head out to the end of the mill to better get at the remaining blade – both left in the housing and in the cant.  No muss, no fuss.  We just take a pair of channel lock pliers and pull it out of the cant.  We were able to cut the .042 and .045 with a good pair of tin snips but the .055s are too thick so I take my angle-head grinder and cut them.

[woodbowl]

We’ll we’ve went to cutting the blade ...............  We were able to cut the .042 and .045 with a good pair of tin snips but the .055s are too thick so I take my angle-head grinder and cut them.

  Ouch Bibbyman!........ That kinked up blade still has a purpose over here on the poor side of town. I know it's a pain to get out and hammering the bends out don't quite get all the bends out and it's gona' fuss for ever more when it gets a chance to cut again but ............ it makes a dandy nail hunter!

[Bibbyman]

We only do the dissection procedure when the blade is already broke or damaged beyond use. 

I wouldn't do it to one that's just jumped off.  Besides,  that never happens to me...

[woodbowl]

I wouldn't do it to one that's just jumped off.  Besides,  that never happens to me...

 unh huh ............. me neither!     Those elusive splintered ends are responsable for grabbing my blade as I gig back under the cut. It's not time efficient on my older model LT40 to raise up then gig back. I put an back/forth motor on the up/down as well, but I still save time to slip back under the cut if I can get away with it.

[Minnesota_boy]

I would chisel around a nail to get to where I could pull it, but it takes too much time.  Now I use the small chainsaw to make bore cuts around the nail and then pop out the block of wood with the nail still in it.  Don't save much time, but it cuts down on the agravation.  Besides, it gives me another chance to play with my nice little saw. 

[customsawyer]

When sawing with a WM and you make your first cut then turn 90 degrees and the log wants to turn a little to far raise up the big end of the log and swing the moveable bed rail under the the edge closest to the sawed face and then lower it back down it will usually tip back the other way then if it don't it will when you adjust for the taper on the small end.

[woodbowl]

When sawing with a WM and you make your first cut then turn 90 degrees and the log wants to turn a little to far raise up the big end of the log and swing the moveable bed rail under the the edge closest to the sawed face and then lower it back down it will usually tip back the other way then if it don't it will when you adjust for the taper on the small end.

I do something like that except I try to use the tapers. If it's too wonker sided I keep-a-goin' to side #3 and come back later.  ..................  How'ed we miss each other at Moultrie? We were parked right behind you. Every time I swung by DanG would say, well I don't know ...... he was here just a minute ago! 

[Tome]

I don't know if this qualifies as a sawmill trick but here goes.

I have a 8" ATS and I had my blades retoothed and they put 1/4" teeth on the blades by mistake but I decided to use them anyway as kerf wasn't that critical to me.  I didn't notice very much difference in the speed of the cut but the one thing I did notice, which is my point here, I didn't need any water on my blade.  I'm assuming that the teeth took out enough kerf that the blade never touched the wood.  I thought this might be a good idea if a person was cutting in a very cold climate and freezing was a problem they could just have a 1/4" toothed blade handy so they wouldn't have to use any water.

[customsawyer]

Woodbowl I don't know how we missed each other. I was steering clear of DanG was afraid he would ask me to pull that ford to FL. with my dodge.

[woodhick]

Yeah Qweaver I'm a true hillbilly.  I live about 5 miles from where I was born and raised.  I live halfway between Charleston and Huntington.  Ever get down this way look me up.   Done a lot of rappelling around the state practicing for a structural rescue team I'm on.  We practiced one day at Fayette station below the bridge, just don't get much better.  I wouldn't mind rappelling off the bridge but jumping is out of the question .  My personal center of gravity is getting lower.  

[DR_Buck]

This is the best way I found to pull nails.   It even pulls after you cut the head off. 

Impact nail puller
This handle is a sliding weight that, when dropped, forces the tool’s pointed jaws to dig in around a nailhead and pinch it tight. Rocking the tool onto the jaws’ extended foot levers the nail out. 

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Alright, Dr. Buck, no fair.

Where's the link to where you get these impact pullers.
I know I have seen the thing...
somewhere.

Phil L.

[Furby]

Try the local box store.

[beenthere]

Also can find in McMaster-Carr, under 'nail puller' at

http://www.mcmaster.com/

for $52

[ARKANSAWYER]

  A Stanley Wonder Bar is good for lifting slabs so you can get the blade back.  Also when sawing long stuff if the balde does not come out the end you can use it to lift and "snap"  the slab off.

  Also if you are on the road and your blade tensioner  on your WoodMizer will not get tight because it is hot and the fluid is low You can back it off and put a nickle infront of the plunger and get more pressure.

[WeeksvilleWoodWorx]

  Also if you are on the road and your blade tensioner  on your WoodMizer will not get tight because it is hot and the fluid is low You can back it off and put a nickle infront of the plunger and get more pressure.

Just A wild idea you had, right? You never really had to try it..

[woodbowl]

   You can back it off and put a nickle infront of the plunger and get more pressure.

A while back I had a set of blades that were just a tad too long and my fluid was low as well. It took 2 quarters to scotch the ram. Almost every time I changed blades I would forget to keep the idle wheel snugged up and they would fall out.

[ARKANSAWYER]

    Yep! a time or two.  I to have lost some change that is why I use nickles now.  Cost less per blade change.

   Keep a pair of vise grips with you as well so if your alt bolt breaks you can "clamp" it back down.

   I have used these clamps when the solenoid went out on the road.

[jpgreen]

Keep those tips comin' fellas... I feel like a seasoned pro already...!

First- I gotta load a log on the thing and saw it.. 

[dail_h]

   Customer gave me one of them nail pullers the other day