Author Topic: PORTABLE SAWMILL -SMALL-RECOMMENDATIONS? (Read 3071 times)

333_okh · « **on:** December 17, 2005, 02:58:22 am »

I am in the market for a small portable sawmill, probably a bandmill, but I am still open. Most of the wood will be urban salvage and removal trees, but some is just local hardwoods. Typically the lumber will be left in 8/4 to 12/4 sizes. Some of the wood will be cut for gunstock blanks. It should be able to handle at least an 18 inch log and probably a 24 inch. It will be a rare time that I ever have a log longer than 12 feet.

So can you guys help me out with the mill you think fits my purpose? I would love to have something small that goes in the back of my truck? Maybe a small trailer?

Bibbyman · « **Reply #1 on:** December 17, 2005, 04:37:55 am »

I'd go Wood-Mizer LT10.

It's big enough to do what your asking and light enough to load into a PU or small utility trailer by hand. It'll knock down and store in the corner of a shed or basement when not in use.

The LT15 is a good bit larger mill and will cut larger dia. logs, has twice the power and available with electric start, etc. And a trailer package can be added. But by then your talking twice the price of an LT10.

If you can bring your logs home to saw, I'd recomend the LT15 with electrice motor.

bull · « **Reply #2 on:** December 17, 2005, 08:55:38 am »

I second Bibbymans motion GO WM you'll have no regrets

toxedo_2000 · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2005, 10:38:11 am »

Have a look at this
http://www.gilbert-sawmill.ca/anglais.html
That is the one I own, with a 20 HP. Very tough. Similar to the Norwood, but comes completely assembled. You have the choice of different sizes.
Tox

D._Frederick · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:11:20 am »

Get videos from some of the other manufactures, Baker, Timberking, Timber Harvester, Cooks Saw, Linn lumber all build very good small band mill.

brdmkr · « **Reply #5 on:** December 17, 2005, 11:58:57 am »

Don't rule out the swing blade mills! They will fit on your truck easily and can be set up and taken down in short order. I think a band mill would have an advantage with smaller logs, but the swing blades really shine with the big stuff. Plus, you can get away with less support equipment.

Larry · « **Reply #6 on:** December 17, 2005, 12:08:53 pm »

To me urban trees mean large diameter logs. Gunstock blanks also mean large diameter logs...esential for high quality stocks. The limiting factor on many of the small bandmills is the throat opening, especially for the gunstock logs. Whatever brand or style you decide on make sure it will do the work required.

333_okh · « **Reply #7 on:** December 17, 2005, 01:14:19 pm »

I will check out the banmills you all recommended.

If I was t obuy a circular (swing blade) mill, what would you recommend for that? It would have to be able to make at least 8 inch wide cuts.

D._Frederick · « **Reply #8 on:** December 17, 2005, 02:06:26 pm »

Get a swing blade model that you can cut from both sides to cut a wider board.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #9 on:** December 17, 2005, 02:19:49 pm »

Ya gonna cut stumps with high figured grain ? Better be able to clamp them TIGHT

doublecut · « **Reply #10 on:** December 17, 2005, 03:55:00 pm »

Quote from: D._Frederick on December 17, 2005, 02:06:26 pm

Get a swing blade model that you can cut from both sides to cut a wider board.

That's one that the Ecosaw is designed to do with the 180 deg swing and with removing the head. Up to 16" wide
doublecut

Part_Timer · « **Reply #11 on:** December 17, 2005, 10:27:41 pm »

I had the lt15 and upgraded to the Peterson ATS and have no regrets at all. Much more portable and much easier on BIG logs.

The down side. URBAN SALVAGE. this means lots of metal. This is a real bummer on the circle blades. A good metal detector is a must with a swinger.

Just my .02

Tom

333_okh · « **Reply #12 on:** December 18, 2005, 02:21:06 pm »

Thanks for the help!

Hey, if you have a large walnut burl, about 8 feet in diamter and a total curcle, how would you cut it up? I have to us a chainsaw and I had about 12 hours to get it out before the owners tub grinder made fuel out of it. He said its your if you can get it out before tonight.

I ended up cutting it in slabs starting on the outside edge and working towards the center. I cut from the top (stump area) to the bottom (roots area) until I had worked my way to the otherside.

Was this good, bad, or just ugly way to treat this fine wood?

Part_Timer · « **Reply #13 on:** December 18, 2005, 08:10:39 pm »

Sounds like the best way given what ya had to work with.

At least it didn't make the tub grinder

333_okh · « **Reply #14 on:** December 18, 2005, 08:18:43 pm »

Here is a little peice that I trimmed from a piece off of the outside.

toxedo_2000 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 18, 2005, 08:58:41 pm »

Ho boy, that is a nice piece of wood ! Just like the one I had in my old Rolls Royce

Tox

333_okh · « **Reply #16 on:** December 18, 2005, 09:42:18 pm »

I have heard that they used burl walnut for the dashes. I put a very small pieve in the kilns locally to dry and see what would happen and I suprised by how light it was at 6%

Kirk_Allen · « **Reply #17 on:** December 18, 2005, 10:43:23 pm »

Quote from: Part_Timer on December 17, 2005, 10:27:41 pm

Much more portable and much easier on BIG logs.

Except when its frozen in 6 inches of ice

Dont feel bad Tom, I broke my Up/down motor and have not been able to cut all weekend.

toxedo_2000 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 18, 2005, 10:57:01 pm »

Quote from: 333_okh on December 18, 2005, 09:42:18 pm

I have heard that they used burl walnut for the dashes. I put a very small pieve in the kilns locally to dry and see what would happen and I suprised by how light it was at 6%

Yep, Rolls Royce and Bentley dashes. Very nice
Tox

333_okh · « **Reply #19 on:** December 18, 2005, 11:33:02 pm »

Well we will see how much of it actually looks as good as that. I have about 2000 wet pounds.

News:

Author Topic: PORTABLE SAWMILL -SMALL-RECOMMENDATIONS? (Read 3071 times)

Kirk_Allen