Author Topic: Need Some Expert Advice (Read 2578 times)

Radar67 · « **on:** December 16, 2005, 09:00:44 pm »

Ran into a little trouble today with my saw, a Poulan Pro Classic 18 inch, 42cc engine. The two screws that hold the muffler to the exhaust port kept backing out, under max throttle while cutting. Any recommendations on how to solve this problem? Is there any type of Loctite product that works well under high heat conditions? The saw runs fine and is perfect for the amount I use it. (Not a daily, bread and butter saw) Thanks for any information you can share.

Stew

Kevin · « **Reply #1 on:** December 16, 2005, 09:53:46 pm »

How about a lock washer?

Radar67 · « **Reply #2 on:** December 16, 2005, 10:39:38 pm »

Kevin, now I feel really dumb!

Didn't even cross my mind.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #3 on:** December 17, 2005, 07:40:45 am »

Open that muffler up and richen up the H side on the carb. You will not think its the same saw. Poulan comes way to lean from the factory. Like a 1/2 on H side, when they run best about 1 1/8-1 1/4 turn out on H side. I run 4 poulans as a homeowner and even took out the metal baffle in the middle of the mufflers and I still havent had the bolts back out like you stated. Hope I am just getting lucky. But I didnt even think of lock washer either. DUH here too.

Minnesota_boy · « **Reply #4 on:** December 17, 2005, 09:15:02 am »

I have a saw that will back those screws out even with lock washers, so I removed them, drilled a small hole in the head of each and put them back in and locked them with a piece of wire run through the holes. It takes longer but it will eventually break the wire and back the screws out anyway.

Chet · « **Reply #5 on:** December 17, 2005, 09:26:02 am »

I have used the high heat loctite #246 or #266 with good results. Just have some heat ready when you need to disasemble.

Apply the tread locker to the bolt (not into the hole) as it will eventually shorten the hole depth.

Kevin · « **Reply #6 on:** December 17, 2005, 09:34:42 am »

Quote

as it will eventually shorten the hole depth.

How did you discover that?

Kevin · « **Reply #7 on:** December 17, 2005, 09:40:39 am »

Another way to lock bolt heads that are hex head is to join the bolt heads with a small piece of metal and bend the ends up to lock the heads in place.

Chet · « **Reply #8 on:** December 17, 2005, 10:01:20 am »

Quote from: Kevin on December 17, 2005, 09:34:42 am

How did you discover that?

Not so swift employees

Radar67 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 17, 2005, 10:03:09 am »

Quote from: Cut4fun on December 17, 2005, 07:40:45 am

Open that muffler up and richen up the H side on the carb. Like a 1/2 on H side, when they run best about 1 1/8-1 1/4 turn out on H side.

Cut4fun, This is my first saw, so could you explain more about the H side of the carb and opening the muffler up?

Minnesota Boy and Kevin, the screws are reccessed into the muffler, I like your ideas though. I'll have to keep them in mind for future reference.

Chet, I'm going to try the lock washers first, if they still back out, I'll add the loctite.

Stew

Kevin · « **Reply #10 on:** December 17, 2005, 10:08:12 am »

You can always replace the screws with bolts.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #11 on:** December 17, 2005, 05:33:04 pm »

Good carb tuning advice on this site. http://www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm

Cut4fun · « **Reply #12 on:** December 17, 2005, 05:43:39 pm »

Need model number of saw so I can look up your muffler. Being silver I bet it is one of those epa catalytic converter types. None of mine had the epa restricted mufflers. Scottr has alot of info on retuning these saws and helped me out on my first top end rebuild this year. PM him also for more info just tell him I sent you.

Radar67 · « **Reply #13 on:** December 17, 2005, 07:30:19 pm »

Quote from: Cut4fun on December 17, 2005, 05:43:39 pm

Need model number of saw so I can look up your muffler. Being silver I bet it is one of those epa catalytic converter types. None of mine had the epa restricted mufflers. Scottr has alot of info on retuning these saws and helped me out on my first top end rebuild this year. PM him also for more info just tell him I sent you.

Thanks for the link and the info. My saw's Model number is PP4218AV. It does have the EPA muffler on it.

Stew

Medina · « **Reply #14 on:** December 18, 2005, 08:10:09 am »

Had same problem with a 380 Pro, used split washers/spring washes/lock washers but you gotta remember that the heat takes the spring out of them and you will need to check them every once and a while, changed mine out every couple of months to be safe.

Metal clip would work with standard head bolts, mine came with round head torx bolts, maybe need to change.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #15 on:** December 18, 2005, 11:36:17 am »

Be careful not to burn your new saw up. Poulan has them so lean from the factory, it is just a matter of time. The 220 I got sounded like it would rpm to the stars at WOT. So I pulled the limiter caps off the H side and L side. red and blue plastic caps to keep us from adjusting carb. I took needle nose pliers and pulled them straight out and off. Then I checked H setting by turning it back in to see the factory setting. It only took a 1/2 turn to seat it to the right. Do this lightly on seating. I then put caps back on and you can only get a max of 3/4 turn of adjust with caps on from factory settings. To me this will just burn your saws up running this lean. The rpm sounds like it will never end. So I pulled the caps back off and adjusted the H side till it 4 stroked a little. About 1 1/4 to 1 1/8 turns out. Then turn so ever slow off the 4 stroking till it clears up. Now the saw should be running richer and keep you from burning up your new saw. I didnt have to mess with the L side(throttle response) or Idle screw. I dont no anyway to open up a epa muffler crimped together I think, but other have drilled holes in the front and replaced them with NON epa mufflers of the earlier years. They stated even though the drilled holes the epa mufflers still retain to much of the heat in. I would try and find a non epa muffler somewhere that fits your saw to get the heat out. Sort of like running a header system on a car. GL

Radar67 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 18, 2005, 11:48:53 am »

Thanks Cut4fun, After reading the tuning link you sent, I was wondering about burning the saw up. I'll have to do some tinkering and see what I can do. I'll also check around for an older muffler. I've got a saw shop close by that might be able to get one.

Stew

IMERC · « **Reply #17 on:** December 18, 2005, 01:31:58 pm »

Thread Locker blue and star style lockwashers (internal / external design). That style of lockwasher digs in and holds a lot better than the split type. Change the screws to washer head tap bolts while yur at it. Hedge yur bets.

rebocardo · « **Reply #18 on:** December 19, 2005, 01:54:49 am »

> Is there any type of Loctite product that works well under high heat conditions?

Red lock-tite, though removing a small fastener would be quite the project.

IMERC · « **Reply #19 on:** December 19, 2005, 02:28:21 am »

Quote from: rebocardo on December 19, 2005, 01:54:49 am

> Is there any type of Loctite product that works well under high heat conditions?

Red lock-tite, though removing a small fastener would be quite the project.

Grey would work even better but everything would become monolithic. Drilling and tapping a new hole is the only way to go back.

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Author Topic: Need Some Expert Advice (Read 2578 times)