More questioning! How about a bar/chain size discussion? Ratios?

[David B]

I have one Jonsy 2050, hopefully have 2 running soon. I have full compliment 20" on one, and it seems to have a little trouble when I sink the whole bar in a big log. So I'm thinking 20" with full skip for the other 2050. I wanna keep both 20" for interchangeability and use one for big logs and one for limbing. I like 20" so I can "reach out and cut something" That and the ratio of bar to saw just looks right  ::

After I try the second 2050 with full skip, I'll decide whether or not to get another bigger saw. When I do, I wanna run around 28-36". If I ran a saw where say 28" is the medium or smallest bar for it, would full comp cut more/faster than say 36" or whatever is the longest with full skip? Kinda like, bigger saw, smaller bar, saw would be heavier, but bar would be lighter, shorter, easier to handle? I'm learning, tossing ideas around...what yalll say?

[SawTroll]

I think you are stretching thigs a bit by using a 20" bar on the 2050.
The saw will cut significantly better/faster with a 16" or preferably even shorter bar.

If you have to run 20" reglarly, get a bigger saw!

[David B]

Would full skip help? Or maybe I should say how much would it help?

How about my other Q? Hp/weight ratios? If 20" is a little much, I pretty much need to look for another saw. Noticed the manufacturers rate the saws for less bar than some others. Say 6-7 hp and about 32"? Or ccs/inches?

[David B]

NEVERMIND YALL, JUST FORGET IT...I DON'T NEED ANY HELP FIGURING OUT WHAT/HOW BIG A SAW I NEED...


....cuz I just won a newish 395XP on Ebay. WOOOOOOOOT! YEAH!

[oldsaw]

Oh yeah, the slippery slope of power.  I've gone from cutting everything with a Homie Super XL, to almost forgetting I still own a Homie Super XL.  I mean, it's a nice saw and all, but the 066 I got makes me feel like Luke Skywalker going through a log.

Absolute power corrupts absolutely.

[Captain]

Typically full skip is not used in bar sizes less than 30"  Then it is not necessarily for power utilization, but chip removal that speeds the cut. 

Full comp chain on smaller loop sizes is faster than full skip.  I've actually got to try some semi skip on my high rpm saws with 8 spline rims...to see if they stay cooler in semi dry hardwoods.

Captain

[crtreedude]

I have a Stihl 090 - is that losing control?

It is attached to an Alaskan rig - but we do using it to drop some trees and to cut down corteza trees. (a touch harder than steel...)

[sawguy21]

I have a Stihl 090 - is that losing control?

It is attached to an Alaskan rig - but we do using it to drop some trees and to cut down corteza trees. (a touch harder than steel...)

A little is good, a lot more is better, and too much is just enough. Seriously, you probably need an 090 for dropping and milling some of the woods you are dealing with

[IL Bull]

Soooooo size does matter?

[Ed_K]

 David B, hope you got a skidder to move that 395 around  .

[twostroke_blood]

David B, hope you got a skidder to move that 395 around  .

   

It seems to me that weight is almost an advantage while cutting. After all, I'm not holding my saw back while going through a log, and when you get up into the 395xp range of saw with a 36'' or larger bar, whats a Lb. or two matter? Except for the carrying around part. With the caliber of tree that thing is gonna cut, how many does anyone expect to cut in a day anyway?

[sawguy21]

   

 Except for the carrying around part.

And that is the worst part of a heavy saw, especially on steep ground.

[twostroke_blood]

Yes but unless your a pro and gonna climb them hills every day, what does a couple of Lb's matter? Saves me Money at the gym.

[oldsaw]

Soooooo size does matter?

Real men have at least 36" and saw enough to pull it...

I've got a 42, and there are manlier men than I on this site.

mark

[David B]

It's nice n flat here, and I'm not stumbling around in the woods...I am actually gonna be whacking a few trees this size into firewood...that's why I got big momma 

[crtreedude]

Honestly, the 090 gets lots of use and I have never found it to be too heavy. (I can hear the crew howling right now) The reason I have never found it too heavy - IS I HAVE NEVER USED IT! I have them convinced that I am too old... (As you can see from the picture, my hair is pretty white) Normally, Costa Ricans don't have hair as white as mine, until they are 90...

Yeah, you have to have a saw like a 090 to handle this:



or worse yet...



This is the base - and it goes up 200 feet. Granted, the base is bigger than the trunk - the trunk is only two horses across. 

[Furby]

Real men have at least 36" and saw enough to pull it...

I've got a 42, and there are manlier men than I on this site.

mark

Yeah, mine's a 72".

[twostroke_blood]

Yeah, mine's a 72".

72"  beats my 60"

[Dale Hatfield]

 Using a full skip on a short bar of 20''  can cause some  problems. I have heard  guys running full skip and having crank seal troubles.
I run semi skid without trouble / I run full on my 36''  394

Dale

[Rocky_J]

Using a full skip on a short bar of 20''  can cause some  problems. I have heard  guys running full skip and having crank seal troubles.
I run semi skid without trouble / I run full on my 36''  394

Dale

umm, unrelated occurances. Just because I was wearing a blue shirt the last time my saw broke doesn't mean that the blue shirt caused the breakdown.

The crankseal issues are typically caused by overheating of the engine. The biggest cause by far of an overheating saw is forcing a dull chain. Now, in my experience I've found that many users of full skip chain do so because there are less teeth to sharpen, and they like that because they cannot sharpen a chain. This could then be extrapolated to the assumption that users of full skip chain will have dull chains more often than average. The use of dull chains causes saw overheating and therefore a higher incidence of blown crankseals. But it still boils down to user error/ abuse.

Or we could just assume that full skip chain ruins crankseals.