Author Topic: Bar oil..beating a dead topic? (Read 2683 times)

David B · « **on:** November 30, 2005, 03:09:13 pm »

So...name brand bar oil or any cheap brand? I will be cutting dirty wood. Seems like tackier (higher quality) oil would be a disadvantage cuz the dirt would stick in it more. What say ye experts?

solodan · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2005, 03:21:17 pm »

I don't know if I understand the question, but if you are thinking of not running bar oil, I would advise against it.

David B · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2005, 03:24:51 pm »

My goodness, no! Just whether i should run cheepy or spensive. Or maybe engine oil so it doesn't tack up all the dirt?

dansaylor · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2005, 03:41:52 pm »

I would just get some poluan oil since it is cheap and does a good job....just my opinion.

solodan · « **Reply #4 on:** November 30, 2005, 03:42:19 pm »

good! I thought maybe you bumped you're head.

micky boy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 30, 2005, 05:12:56 pm »

I went through a spell of using the non-fling chain oil (Rock Oil) and can honestly say that it did not lube the bar and chain any better than a cheaper motor oil. I previously and now always use standard engine oil 20/50 or similar cause it is half the price for a start. I suppose the powers that be would say that nom-fling oil is better for the envirionment, but really does it make that much difference, the oil still has to go somewhere. Also chain manufacturers are making bars and chains with better oil transfer systems these days, especially Stihl chains. So oil can still get to all the moving parts of the chain very well in my opinion.

rickk · « **Reply #6 on:** November 30, 2005, 09:31:28 pm »

Not sure how much difference there are between brands of bar oil, but I know it looks and feels different (stickier) than engine oil, so I use bar oil.

Putting aside the fact that bar oil is made for bars, I am pretty sure that if one used motor oil that the oil metering system would be all screwed up and you would probably go thru more than a tank of oil for a tank of gas... a bad thing.

At Walmart bar oil and engine oil cost about the same anyway.

Poulan oil is what they usually have, so that is what I usually get.

I occationaly use Husqvarna brand oil cuz I happen to need oil and be at the chain saw store for somthing else and the gas for my Ford Dually would cost more than the $1 a gallon price oil difference that driving to walmart would save me.

I think this is going to be a long and scarey message thread.... it would be safer to talk about opinions on what the most perfect looking woman in the world should look like

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Ed_K · « **Reply #7 on:** November 30, 2005, 10:04:19 pm »

I use the polan bar oil cause its cheap, but when it get real cold I use the husky 10#. We have enviro oil at the husky dealer's but its $8. + a gal

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David B · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2005, 10:55:35 pm »

The echo dealer here told me 18.95 a gal for their bar oil if i heard him right.

sawguy21 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2005, 11:06:16 pm »

Quote from: David B on November 30, 2005, 10:55:35 pm

The echo dealer here told me 18.95 a gal for their bar oil if i heard him right.

Yer getting beat up. $10.95 canuckistan bucks for four litres, just shy of a gallon for the metrically challenged, here for Stihl or Husky oil. I use their stuff figuring it is a lot cheaper than bars and chains.

David B · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2005, 11:43:27 pm »

Yeah..I'm not touching the Echo stuff...

Coon · « **Reply #11 on:** December 01, 2005, 12:24:47 am »

Check the previously posted on this topic. It does make a difference on your equipment. Use only brand named cain oils for the cheaper brands are not good for the bars and chains. Do not use motor oil in the saws. The saws are designed around using chain oils and you will damage the oiler drives in your saw and you will have problems with plugging up.

David B · « **Reply #12 on:** December 01, 2005, 12:40:01 am »

Yessir. I'll not use motor oil. And I will use a saw brand bar oil. Just like my 2 cycle.

rebocardo · « **Reply #13 on:** December 01, 2005, 07:38:32 am »

> I am pretty sure that if one used motor oil that the oil metering system would be all screwed up

Why, once the saw gets hot it all flows the same and is thin because the tank gets hot. I have used all sorts of motor oil ranging from 5w-30 to 20w50 and even for extended periods chain saw milling with no ill effects. Though I do have my oiler turned all the way up and taking the advice from people here did open up my oiler holes on the bar.

I buy "bar" oil for the best reason, it is cheap. Why is it cheap? Hardly any additives such as zinc. If I cut in a forest or near a water source I might hesitate, though the exhaust and any minor drip of gas (especially with MBTE) is far worse then the minor amount of oil additives spread around.

-imo- $0.02

micky boy · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2005, 03:39:13 pm »

Always running a 15" or 18" occasionaly 20" bar with oiler on full (357) and 3 turns on my 372's. Oil never runs out before fuel and plenty of oil gets on the chain and in the bar grooves, although I do appriciate that users with longer bars will use more oil per tank of fuel. I fail to see why so many insist that a cheaper motor oil can be so bad, 20/50 isn't that thin and I have never had any components of an oil pump wear out in 11 years of commercial sawing, occasionally the plastic worm drives wear out but that aint connected to the lube anyway. Surely if motor oil is good enough to aid cooling an engine/bearings/shafts etc in our vehicles then surely it isn't going to over heat and wear a saw pump. As I look at it motor oil is exactly that 'motor oil' - for lubricating motors, surely an oil drive could slot into this category for satisfactory lubing.
Here in the U.K. motor oil is about half the price of chain oil and with expensive fuel prices you have to be realistic when it comes to how much you want to spend before you have earnt your days pay.
I am not preaching but offer my opinion on my own experiences with oil and respect that not everyone works there saw the same and everybodies needs differ from one to the next. Cutting different woods would have an effect on lube quality. I cut about 90 % softwood (Douglas Fir, Sitka/Norway Spruce, Larch and Western Hemlock) these are all easy cutting on the chain and I assume that those of you who cut a lot of big hardwoods would need plenty of lube to stop your bigger bars from drying up.
Keep on sawing !

rebocardo · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2005, 06:42:43 pm »

Probably 75% of what I cut is red and white oak, with some hickory and sweetgum thrown in. I hardly ever cut softwoods. No problems for me.

Corley5 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 02, 2005, 02:30:38 pm »

I've ran everything from name brand bar oil to two cycle mix and gear lube (kinda stinky) and have never had a problem. I've been running Poulan oil from Walm-Mart because it's cheaper and convenient. The Blockbuster firewood processor I've bought uses oil from the hydraulic system as chain lube for the 20" .404 bar and chain. You just add hydraulic oil as the sight glass indicates.

beenthere · « **Reply #17 on:** December 02, 2005, 03:24:07 pm »

Corely5
Did that Blockbuster come yet? Or did I miss the announcement?

Corley5 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 02, 2005, 03:30:01 pm »

I'm still waiting patiently. When I talked to them a couple weeks ago they said it'd be here by or before the 20th.

IL Bull · « **Reply #19 on:** December 02, 2005, 05:18:37 pm »

I've always had good luck running automatic transmission fluid. Keeps the chain lubed and not much build up of saw dust. Runs very well in the cold wheather.

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Author Topic: Bar oil..beating a dead topic? (Read 2683 times)