Chain sharping for lazy people

[treeboy]

I was getting a bar and chain for my new to me 044 and was asking the guy if those 12v chain grinders work. He told me to use the sharping stones with your cordless drill. He likes to dip the stone in oil, go high speed into the teeth. When the oil collects on the top of the tooth - that one is done. He claims to be able to get the chain as sharp as new. I know fallers are able to do that with a file - I can't .
I'm charging my drill now to try it on an old chain

[IndyIan]

Well let us know how the drill method works.  I would still practice doing it by hand, I don't think you want to drag your cordless drill around with you all day... 

I'm sure I don't hand sharpen like a pro does but after doing it many times I am happy with how much much better the chain cuts after I've given the chain a little touch up on every fill up. 

Does anyone have a link to sharpening instructions?  I use the file guide that clips onto the file and then use a depth gauge tool to file the rakers down.  But for people who have never done it, it would be useful for them.
Ian

[micky boy]

I have got a 240v bench chain sharpener (spinning disc). I only use it to sharpen the .404 harvester chains when they have been hit real bad and are too hard for a file. You have to be so delicate with the abrasive wheel or you can heat the tooth too much. I can always get a tooth sharper with a file and it can be done in a fraction of the time. As far as getting a tooth as sharp as new goes, I always find that a new chain is never as sharp as your first filing. I'll usually give a new chain a little touch up with a file to give it a razor edge.

[Kevin]

When using a stone while the chain is on the bar it will leave little pieces of stone in the bar groove and nose sprocket which can't be good for the bar over time.

[DonE911]

I'm a lazy person for sure.... I don't file at all.   I keep several chains on hand and change them out which is faster than filing (for me)....  I sharpen them all on the grinder when I get around to it.  I'm not cutting wood full time though. 

[rebocardo]

By hand using the $24 Grenberg (sp?) tool and a file I would get a chain much sharper then by grinder, but, the grinder is much faster for me so I no longer use a file. I just bring 4-6 chains of each size chain.

[Oregon Engineer]

I was getting a bar and chain for my new to me 044 and was asking the guy if those 12v chain grinders work. He told me to use the sharping stones with your cordless drill.

The 12V grinders usually turn 10,000 rpm so the small diameter stones do a good job removing material. But a cordless drill will not be turning nearly as fast so you may have problems with material removal and loading up the stone. I use a 12V on my stump chains because of the large amount of damage when cutting out stump roots.

If you grind, do it in a vise. If you are forced to do it on a good bar, blow off the bar starting at the nose sprocket and work your way back to the mounting holes. Keep the grit out of the nose sprocket!

[treeboy]

Hmmmm, doesn't quite work as well as the guy says. The right side sharpened quite nicely - but not faster than the file. The left side - I broke down and just used the file. The good news is I think I'm getting better at using the file!

If the grit from the stone is possibly a problem with the bar and nose sprocket, wouldn't the metal file bits be trouble too?

[Al_Smith]

 Those little "Dremel" type grinders are o.k. for a rocked chain ,but I prefer the file ,otherwise.A 20"chain,unless damaged,only takes a few minutes to touch up with a file.

[Kevin]

Steel isn't good either but stone is much harder than the steel and will increase the wear factor.

[crtreedude]

I used to sharpen with a file. After 3 tank fulls, I would sit down and sharpen it - I would usually be ready for a break anyway by then... 

It seemed to work very well, and I sure like how sharp the chain was.  Of course if I hit something, I would have an early break... 

[PawNature]

It takes me about 3 minutes to sharpen 72 links with a stone. About the same time or less with a file.
Providing I have hit anything and they just need toughing up.

[woodhick]

I have never quite got the "hang" of hand filing.  I could get a chain sharp enough to cut good but not as sharp as a new one.  I have tried all types of guides, most with little sucess.  i recently have been using a guide that I believe Husqvarna markets, it is a small piece of aluminum that stradles the chain and has two roller on each side.  Only weighs a couple of ounces and fits in your pocket.  By far the best guide I have ever used and has improved my sharpening skills.  They come in different sizes depending on what type of chain your running, .325, 3/8, or .404.  I think Baileys has these. I bought mine at commercial cutters direct at the Paul Bunyan show.  Best 5 or 6 dollars I ever spent.

[wiam]

I was not a great hand filer until I worked in front of a skidder for a winter.  Now I usually hit a new chain before I start the saw.  For me I am sure a sharpener would be slower than filing.

Will

[Max sawdust]

It seems like I have tried every sharpening method sold.  Boy has it been frustrating.  I finally came up with system for field sharpening that works good for me.
I use the cordless drill with a stone for my rakers.  For sharpening the chain I use a file and this nifty gadget called a Swedish Roller Guide.  It keeps your file at the right depth and angle and only cost seven bucks or so.  (I must have spent $75 on other gadgets that did not work for me.)
Here is a pic
Max

[Medina]

I use the same as what you are calling a Swedish Roller, Husky sells them in sets with the right files for different sizes. They work very nice for for the price.

[Al_Smith]

 This subject of chain filing has been a topic of conversation on many of the forums.It's not rocket science but does require an aquired level of skill.The only way to get this level of expertise is by doing it.
 Eventually everybody has their favorite method of filing ,which is the one that works best for you.
 My method is one side at a time,usually free hand,but I use an Oregon guide periodically to maintain the angle.It just boils down to practice,no big secrets.

[Rocky_J]

Al is correct. I'm as lazy as they come and I've figured out that pushing a file is a lot easier than pushing a dull chain through a bunch of logs. If one of my saws doesn't cut like a hot knife through butter, I stop and touch it up. By hand, with a round file. I know what a sharp chain is supposed to look like. If a chain is dull, I file off whatever doesn't look like a sharp chain. It is exactly that easy.
 

[Gilman]

I know a few people that really hate sharpening their chains so they go wayyyyy toooo lonnnnggg before trying to sharpen them.  By this time, the tips of the teeth are so work hardened they are nearly as hard as the file.  We've all experience that feel on the file when it's trying to break through that hard surface.  If sharpened reguallarly they are much quicker and easier to file.

I've noticed a lot of the hand filing problems come from uneven filing between left hand and right hand teeth.  To help train your motor skills, clamp the bar in a vise until you have the filing down to being repeatable.  With the bar in a vise you can focus on filing technique verses filing while holding the saw still.

Kathy's brothers usually only sharpen 1/2 of the teeth, then they pass the saw to the other guy.  One's a righty and the other is a south paw.  Works well for them. 

[Larry]

As a charter member of the lazy crowd I file.  Couple members mentioned the Swedish roller guide...it is a great way to learn the proper method...much like training wheels on a bicycle.

I had a terrible time learning how to square file...clamped the bar in a vise as Gilman mentioned and used both hands on the file.  Can’t say I have square chain mastered but I can do a passable job with the file out in the woods now.