Need Advice On New Saw Purchase...

[GrnRvrMn]

I am planning on starting a small (really small) firewood company.  The doctor told me I had to get in better health.  I thought it might be wiser to spend a couple of hours daily cutting, chopping and hauling firewood than at the YMCA. 

What kind of saw do I start with?

Thanks

[beenthere]

First, welcome to the forum. There are many who have answers that will help you.

Without knowing a lot more about you, what you have been doing, what timber you own, where you are located, what access you have, used a chainsaw before, etc.  I can't begin to answer that question. 
Hope this doesn't come across as too nosy.

[whitepine]

Hi I do the same thing for years in  MN. I think a husky is a great saw but I would suggest you see a Stihl as they have a dealer network that sevices what they sell. Tell him what you are up to and he  will be able to help you decide. You may be lucky and have a Husky dealer near you there are a few left but they will disappear as the saws are now sold at discount houses and that will make a dealer go out of business. You will need help getting started find a good dealer.

[GrnRvrMn]

Thanks for the welcome.

Here's some answers:
I don't own any timber.  One of the guys at the church has some land that is about to be a highway and he runs a tree removal company.  He's the man who suggested this way of health benefit, and told me I could have what I wanted. 

I'm in north Mississippi. 

Embarrisingly, I have never used a chainsaw.

Whitepine, I had just got off the phone with the local stihl dealer before I read your post and told him the plan.  He suggested a MS250 for $300.  He seems to be the big service guy around.  I thought this would be a good way to start a relationship with someone who could probably help me and answer lots of questions. 

Any help and advice is appreciated.

[Ianab]

Think your dealer has the right idea.
Something like a ms250 has enough power to handle anything a beginner should be cutting 
The MS260 is a better saw, but is probably hard to justify for a hobby.
No need to go bigger, you will just wear yourself out, not to mention safety issues. Smaller will be slow and frustrating.

Also

Get the safety gear too - hard hat and chaps and read the manual - especially if you are going to be felling trees. It's not hard if you do it right, it can be fatal if you do it wrong.

Lean how to sharpen the chain. Nothing worse than a blunt chain and chances are you will hit dirt or a rock when you are learning. You dealer should be able to give you a 5min course in chain sharpening if you ask.

And most important - have fun 
you are right, it a better workout than the gym and you can earn a few $ instead of paying them out.

Cheers

Ian

[whitepine]

Sounds Like you are on the right track. Please listen to  Ianab's post and the safety gear you need  boots chainsaw pants and face shield. Almost everyone will touch himself with the saw eventually and your object is to get in shape not cut pieces off your body. I find that the first week I go out is hell the second week bearable  and after that  no problem (veteran back surgery and heart attack). Also give some thought to splitting and selling/transportation.  If you have never used a chainsaw you really need the dealer support and learn how to sharpen that saw, one can tell if a man knows what he is doing by looking at the sawdust it should be chips not dust.

[beenthere]

GrnRvrMn
Sounds like an opportunity. Now, hopefully this 'man' at Church will give you some tutoring as well as mentoring with on-site help, especially if you are going to cut trees down (for that, look for a hands-on training course in your area).
A good way to start getting in shape, is if you can work up some trees or logs that are already down.  There you just need to learn to clean the saw-cut line if dirt in the bark, use a wedge to follow in the cut to keep from pinching the blade, keep the saw tip out of the dirt no matter what, roll the log (something like a logrite cant hook which should be available soon from your Stihl dealer) to finish the cut through the log, and touch-up the chain teeth after each tank of gas (or sooner if dipping the tip in the dirt). All this stuff can be learned over time, but working with someone who knows and is willing to help you will make it faster and safer.
Enjoy....its fun to make sawdust.
Now, for splitting, a hand swung maul works, but a hyd splitter is better. The maul will get you a lot of exercise. I'm to the stage I don't want that kind of exercise anymore. 
Next comes drying the wood, and marketing......

[GrnRvrMn]

Thanks for all the good advice.

Reading some of these posts I am faced with how little I know.  If it would not be too much of a burden, I would love to hear more novice advice.

Here are some questions:
Clean the saw cut line when there is dirt in the bark?
How do you use the wedge to follow the cut?  Is this while the tree is still up or when I am cutting lengths?
How do I keep the saw out of the dirt when cutting lengths?
Anything to do with safety - SAFETY FIRST
Anything is good

[Tom]

Clean the saw cut line when there is dirt in the bark?

1. Use an axe to get rid of the bark in the strip where the chain will go.
2. When cutting through minimal dirt on the log, make sure that it is on the output side of the chain so that the dirt gets thrown off rather than dragged into the saw kerf.  Boring cuts can be used to get the bar into the log in a clean place so that the chain can be throwing off the dirt as the cut is continued. (boring cuts can be dangerous. be careful and get instructions)

How do you use the wedge to follow the cut?  Is this while the tree is still up or when I am cutting lengths?

1.Use plastic wedges so that you don't hurt the chain. 
2. Insert the wedge on the compression side of the log, when bucking, to keep the kerf from closing on the bar.

Anything to do with safety - SAFETY FIRST

Read all you can find.  But, don't discount you're chainsaw dealer.  If he is a genuine representative of the manufacturer, he will be knowledgeable too.

3. When felling, wedges are used to lift the tree and/or to keep the tree from sitting down on the bar.  Felling is dangerous. While wedges are a part of the job, get hands-on instructions.

How do I keep the saw out of the dirt when cutting lengths?

1.Roll or raise the log off of the ground before you buck it. Place a small log under the log to be bucked so that the chain has a buffer between it and the ground. (cant hooks are a handy tool to use around large logs.  Some can be purchased with a device on them that will raise small logs.  Look at the one offered by our sponsor (Logrite).

Lastly, look for more info from other members.  There are some here that are real pros.

[etat]

Wow, North Mississippi........

Wish I'd a know you could have come over and helped me cut some lower limbs off of some water oaks at my dad and cut em up into firewood for  a widow lady that lives down the road........

I live in Ellistown in Union County by the way.  I actually really and truly don't do a lot of wood cutting though. 

Sometimes a tree limb off of the top or a roof or a bit of cleaning up here and there.

[GrnRvrMn]

Hey man, we're neighbors, I graduated from New Albany and teach in Byhalia.  Thanks for reply.

Tom, I appreciate the answers. 

Ya'll have a great weekend.

[fishhuntcutwood]

For firewood applications you can get by with alot of saws.  If you're gonna do it as a business, even a small one, I'd get the best saw you can afford.  Time is money, and if your saw is down in the shop, or underpowered, or unreliable you're hosed.  Stihl 026/260 or equivalent.  The 250 will work fine, but for professional use, even moderate professional use, I'd recommend the 026.

And as far as keeping the log out of the dirt, Bailey's has a little gizmo called the Chainsaw Buddy, and at first it looks kinda funny, but supposedly it works pretty well, and there's even a video of it in action, and I'd say it's worth a shot.

Jeff

[mike_van]

Best advise I can give is OJT - Try to get some on the job training from someone knowledgeable near you - You can read 'till the cows come home [ don't get me wrong, readings good]  But untill you get face to face with some of the things you read about, it's all just words, not experience.  Best of luck to you -  A lot of people with health problems only want to go on "disability or workers comp" Not actually help themselves. Congrats to you for doing something!!!!

[sawguy21]

I agree that the MS260 might be a better choice for your needs. A bit more power and will outlast the consumer oriented 250 which btw is a very good saw for the average home owner. I give out a pocket sized chain and bar maintenance manual from Stihl with every new saw. It is very good.
Most of my saw customers are, like you, first time users.  I give them as many safety tips as possible and really encourage the use of PPE. Quite a few say they are only cutting a a few trees, they are not doing it for a living. Others say "not this time, maybe I will come back later." O.K. if there is a next time.after you get out of the hospital The new guy needs it as much if not more than the pro.
If you are felling, get some instruction from a pro, somebody that really does walk the talk. Very easy to get seriously mutilated with a small mistake.

[TRUSSMAN]

I also say go for the 260, I have an older 026, it has been a very reliable for the 7 years i have owned it.  It is a light weight and easy to manuever.  I had a buddy who had an 025, I believe it would be OK for ocassional use but highly recommend the 026. 
TRUSSMAN

[GrnRvrMn]

I can't tell ya'll how appreciative I am for ya'lls answers.  I am studying each one and taking each one to heart. 

I have lined up 2 men who are planning to help me start who have experience making a living selling firewood.  They are both looking forward to the project of training me.  So, the OJT is taken care of.  Also, the man from church (one of the men training me) has given me permission to cut rounds out of some logs he has taken down from his tree removal service before I start felling trees.

About the 026: I really only have enough money for the 250.  The other is $150 more.  I don't have it.  Can I legitimately use the 250 to start this endeavor and go ahead and get this plan under way?

About the PPE: Foolishly I had planned on giving the same, "I will come back later," answer.  I won't do that.  But I do need advice on where I can get some good chaps for a smaller price than $90.  Or is that the price I am going to have to pay?  (I will not be foolish, I will pay if I have to).

Another question: Though I am not doing this endeavor for the montary benefits, I can't help but look forward and hope I make enough money to pay for the supplies I purchase and to eventually fix my 79 jeep's transmission to get back to some of the muddier timber places.  In one season (late season at that) is this reasonable to hope for with 2 to 3 hours a day 2 or 3 days a week?

I hope I am not being too taxing on ya'll.  The information is appreciated.

[Kirk_Allen]

Not sure where  you pricing them but I picked up my sedon pair of chaps a month ago for $59.00 at our local stihl dealer.  The Husky chaps were $65.00 at the Rural King store and If I recall there about that price in the Baileys catalog, who is a fine sponsor of the FF. 

SUPPORT THE SPONSERS!

I couldnt wait for my chaps as we were in the middle of a big job otherwise I would have ordered them from Baileys. 

[IndyIan]

I second Ianab, with learning to sharpen the chain by hand.  Saves alot of time and money. 

Also you might want to look into getting cordwood delivered by the truck load in log form. 
I know a guy that basically does what your talking about just for exercise and some cash.  He gets a bunch of logs, 6 or 8 cords, delivered and then he saws them and splits them by hand and sells it.  It is exercise for sure! 
Also you might find a couple logs worth keepingfor lumber in a load and after a few loads you can get someone in to saw them up if you've got a use or market for some boards.

Also, some of the cheaper saws do still cut wood, if you find a larger department store model at a yard sale thats in good shape, pick it up.  They will last for a lot of 12 hour weeks with good mixed gas and a sharp chain. 

Ian

[Ianab]

I'd feel happier going out with a 250, chaps and helmet  than with a better saw and no safety gear

While the ms260 is a better saw (it's slightly lighter, slightly more powerfull and should last twice as long) the ms250 will get the job done. For part time use it should last you for years if you look after it.
If you cut enough wood to wear it out you should have earned plenty to replace or supplement it with a better saw later. If you end up doing a lot of this then you will want more than one saw anyway.

I think you can make some money cutting firewood, just dont expect your hourly income to be that great and it IS hard work.

Cheers

Ian

[fishhuntcutwood]

You can get chaps from Bailey's for less than $60. 

And yes, the 250 will work for getting started.  If you take care of it, it'll last a good long time and be a fine saw.

Jeff