cutting dried timbers

[woodhick]

I got a chance at a job today that could work into a long term deal.  The Job requires cutting large kiln dried red oak timbers down to size.  These are truly kiln dried, dried in a microwave kiln, large timbers used for timber frame construction.  They are new timbers not reclaimed.  My question is which blade have most of you had the best success resawing dry timbers with.  My mill is a just like a woodmizer LT40 with no hydraulics, all manual.  Engine is a 20hp.   Has anyone had succes with the woodmizer 4 degree blade.  I hear they take a lot of horsepower.  My first try is going to be with a bi-metal blade, probably from suffolk, as I have a couple and have used them before.  I usally use monks but have never cut any dry wood with them. At least not yet .  Any help would be appreciated and I know  the people here at the Forestry Forum will not let me down.  This is a great site and I would like to thank everyone.

[mike_van]

Just my 2 cents, but I find on dry wood the 7/8" pitch blades I use tend to really "blow out" of the cut  on the back side.   A finer pitch would probably give a better but slower cut.

[Kelvin]

I've found that the 4 deg works faster in the right type of wood, and lasts longer.  Using the right blade for the right conditions would result in faster cuts and stay sharper longer.  I would think that the timbers might be 8-12" wide, so a 9 or 4 might be the thing.  Changing set should help as well.  As i set my own blades i just keep different sets for different things.  Pine is the widest set, dry hard stuff the narrowest.  Woodmizer might recomend stuff for you but i don't know that they will change the set for you.  They'll send you a couple of 4's for free, at least they did for me.  Otherwise i find dry wood to saw just as well as green with good blades.  Shouldn't be a problem. 

[Brad_S.]

I'm with Kelvin on the set. You should be able to use a narrow set since the wood is dry, and that will take less hp to pull through the log. Can't make any suggestions on degree since I need a 'universal' blade and stay with a 10 degree set for everything.

[ARKANSAWYER]

  4 degree would be best for hard dry oak like you will be sawing.  Be careful not to use much lube as the water will casue the wood to swell and pinch the blade.   If chatter gets to be to much on the finish then go to a 0.055 blade.   These will be harder to saw then dry logs so befor you commit to deep or set a firm price you had better test saw a few.