Log clamp "issues"

[flip]

Well...I've sawn about 25 logs and modified a few things on the mill, most everything is working as planned, with the exception of the log clamps.
My clamps run a pair of hydraulic cylinders in and out (which double as my log turner.  Where the issue arises...  the clamps are driven bach and forth by a #40 chain and gears.  The drive gear is run by a 1" shaft attached to a high torque hydraulic motor.  The carriage for the clamp is 2" over 2" square tubing.  We oricinally used the set screws to hold the drive gear to the shaft and after about 10 logs the gear is slipping on the shaft.  To fix this problem we drill and pin the gear.  Now the chain is slipping and we have the same problem, clamps are out of "time".  Any ideas or better set ups?  I don't mind scrapping that system if I could find one a little more reliable. 

I'll try and put up a pic. so you can get an idea.

Thanks, Flip

[flip]

here goes...

[woodbowl]

Flip,
   It looks like you have 2 clamps/turners on the outboard. Have you seen some like this before? If so how did they overcome this problem? What is the advantage of this system over one clamp/turner in the center?  To the best of my knowledge, all of WM mills have it located in the center, even theLT40 super hydraulic, with the exception of the lt15, but those are manual and individualy adjusted.

[flip]

I'm cutting from right to left (backwards) so I enter on the clean side of the wood, no real reason for this , just how the design went.  I have no reason not to use one clamp but I never gould get any detailed pics. to go off of so I just used my own design    I would rather use 1 clamp 1 turner assembly to reduce the number of moving parts.  If I could get some good pics.  I would scrap and start over.

Flip

[woodbowl]

I'm cutting from right to left (backwards) so I enter on the clean side of the wood, no real reason for this , just how the design went.

  If you can hold the wood, entering on the clean side is great. I sure wouldn't want to change that!

I have no reason not to use one clamp but I never gould get any detailed pics. to go off of so I just used my own design I would rather use 1 clamp 1 turner assembly to reduce the number of moving parts. If I could get some good pics. I would scrap and start over.

  Don't scrap it yet, wait for the input of other sawer/builder/modifiers.  I think you've got something good going. Just because it is not a standard way does not mean that it won't work just as good or even better. Many thin fabriced ideas from ole' country boys have evolved to replace long running standards and will continue to do so. Keep up the good work even if you choose to cut it off and improve it.

[flip]

OK,  I decided to scrap the chan driven log clamp system and use some acme thread rod and 2 hydraulic motors.  I'll be able to keep the tube the shuttle and cylinder run on and just do some slight mods.  More pinching power and more adjustability

[woodbowl]

Hang on Flip. There is a thread not too far back that talks about the advantages and disadvantages of acme rod. I don't remember the name of it. May want to do a search.

[woodbowl]

Here is the thread, Hope this helps.


http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=13452.0 

[flip]

Thanks for the link.

Doesn't the TimberKing B-20 use a clamp that is run by a acme rod? 

[D._Frederick]

Flip,

I guess that I don't understand how your roller chain is slipping? Are the sprocket teeth bent or broken? Can you put a roller or sprocket to tighten the chain if it is too loose?

The last time I saw a Timber King they did use acme drive on there clamp.

[flip]

I'll get some better pics. tonight so ya'll can see how it works.  I guess the chain is just a little too light or is stretched too much when pressure is put on it

I think I can get a little better control and holding power with the screws.

To Be Continued...