Author Topic: Husky 3120 wont rev - stalls - did a carb clean up and no difference ??! (Read 2736 times)

chainsaw_louie · « **on:** September 05, 2005, 10:48:22 pm »

Hi,

I have a 2-year-old Husqvarna 3120 chainsaw that I use for milling logs and occasionally cross cutting. Anyway, recently it stopped running properly. (The warrantee period is over, but they never covered anything during the warrantee period anyway ...but that’s a different subject).

It will start on choke but then just run 20 beats or so and die, I can sometimes get it to rev up and stay revved up but as soon as I take my finger off the throttle it dies. Its like its starved for gas. After staring on choke and running 20 beats, it will start without choke but still just run 10 seconds at the most unless I can manage to get er revved up and keep it there, which is hard to do.

Today I did the following:
1. Replaced the fuel filter
2. Blew out the air cleaner
3. Took off the carb removed the
- idle mix screw
- both cover plates and diaphragms
- the fuel metering valve and spring
4. blew it all out with compressed air, there was bits of rust/debris in the fuel screen etc. I hope that the compressed air cleaned it all out. When I saw all that debris in the filter screen etc I thought eureka! and congratulated myself for being so clever and all.

5. Re assembled the saw
6. Changed the gas for fresh mix

After all the above, I started it and there was No Change. It still will stutter and die and has lots of trouble revving up. It wants to start but just keeps stalling. I realized that I am not so clever but that junk in the carb couldn't have been helping so it was good to get it cleaned up even though it didnt fix the stalling problem.

Should I have soaked the carb in carb cleaner?

Somebody suggested a clogged screen in the exhaust port.

I have heard that a leak in the crank seal can cause stalling but on a saw this new that would be pretty unlikely.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Tim

leweee · « **Reply #1 on:** September 05, 2005, 11:10:49 pm »

Tim....check the impulse passageway ( sometimes the plastic block cracks from the heat of milling) Does this carb have a high speed jet or is it a fixed jet model?

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #2 on:** September 05, 2005, 11:24:06 pm »

Thanks for the suggestion.

This saw has just 2 adjusting screws on the carb a idle speed screw 'T' and a idle mix screw 'L' . There is no High Speed jet screw. This is an 'EPA' carb and as I understand it cant really be adjusted.

There is just one hose to the carb, its the fuel line.

I saw somewhere a mention of a clogged fuel tank vent - this sounds like its worth checking - I'm not sure if thats in the fuel cap or somewhere else. If its clogged it could limit the flow of fuel, no?

Tim

woodbowl · « **Reply #3 on:** September 05, 2005, 11:38:22 pm »

Tim,
Sometimes the fuel line will suck air due to a crack in the line or around the fittings. Dirt dobber nest in the muffler even drives a mechanic crazy untill they check it.............last of course. Put in a new spark plug even if it already has one. Even a new plug can be bad. Can you squirt gas in the carb after it starts running and keep it running? That could cancell out a lot of other things.

Kevin · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2005, 05:34:50 pm »

Check for an air leak around the carb mounting.

YukonJon · « **Reply #5 on:** September 08, 2005, 01:04:31 am »

HI There

I had similar problems with 2 of my saws, turned out to be fuel lines. They must get soft & collapse inside or something. Worth a try.

Jon

Paco · « **Reply #6 on:** September 08, 2005, 12:09:22 pm »

sounds to me like the crank seal, a saw used for milling has more stress put on that than one just used for cross cutting. it is easy to check. put some pre-mix gas in a spray bottle and spray it on the seal with the saw bearly idling if it is leaking the idle will pick up.
Paco

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #7 on:** September 08, 2005, 10:43:55 pm »

Thanks. I'll try the fuel spray trick but last night I opened it up and removed the carb and the intake boot but it looked like all was well. Previously, I cleaned everything in there with compressed air and a rag...its spotless so I can see whats going on. Unless I am missing something really small, there isn't a crack or break in the carb manifold boot. The hole in the boot that carries the pulse is clear and ditto for the channel in the carb that carries the pulse to the diaphram.

Other things I checked - screen in exhaust ...it was spotless.

I plan to check:

"fuel tank vent" but not sure what it is or where it is. Any ideas?

Fuel Lines but it looks like some trouble to get to where it passes through to the tank

spark plug - just replace it in case

If that fails, I'll try a carb kit just in case one of the diaphrams is bad.

If that fails, I'll try to find a good dealer and hand it over to them.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #8 on:** September 08, 2005, 10:51:21 pm »

Opps just re read your post Paco, you said CRANK SEAL Sorry I misunderstood . Is that the seal where the crank shaft exits the case by the clutch? Isn't there also a seal on the otherside by the flywheel that could leak too, right?

Tim

woodbowl · « **Reply #9 on:** September 09, 2005, 12:51:24 am »

Tim, you can illiminate the vent question by unscrewing the cap a bit to allow equal pressure in the tank for the test. You can also illiminate the possible fuel supply problem by taking a plastic cola bottle, poking a small hole in the cap so the fuel squirts out in a fine stream. Take the air filter off and crank it like you have been doing. When it starts up, have someone squirt the fine stream of fuel mix directly into the carb with the throttle full open. If it continues to run untill you take away the stream, there is a fuel supply problem somewhere such as the diafram not pumping or an impulse channel. A bad crank seal is still a possibility.

jokers · « **Reply #10 on:** September 09, 2005, 03:34:02 pm »

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 08, 2005, 10:43:55 pm

......Fuel Lines but it looks like some trouble to get to where it passes through to the tank

It`s not as hard as it looks like to replace the fuel line. Unfortunately, the crack is either where the line passes into the tank or on the fuel nipple on the carb. It will be very hard to see unless you blow backward through the hose.

Russ

Kevin · « **Reply #11 on:** September 09, 2005, 06:48:58 pm »

A fuel line on a two year old saw?
They should last a little longer than that.

jokers · « **Reply #12 on:** September 10, 2005, 09:53:36 am »

Quote from: Kevin on September 09, 2005, 06:48:58 pm

A fuel line on a two year old saw?
They should last a little longer than that.

Yeah Kevin, I agree. I have seen several that went south that quickly. Maybe it is something in our gas here. I noticed that Tim is also in NY.

Russ

floyd · « **Reply #13 on:** September 10, 2005, 10:35:30 am »

are you running ethanol init? very hard on some rubber compounds

jokers · « **Reply #14 on:** September 10, 2005, 10:41:40 am »

Quote from: floyd on September 10, 2005, 10:35:30 am

are you running ethanol init? very hard on some rubber compounds

Not deliberately Floyd, can`t guarantee that it doesn`t happen. Our gas is periodically oxygenated here in the winter.

Russ

floyd · « **Reply #15 on:** September 10, 2005, 10:46:51 am »

I think the pumps must state there is ethanol in the fuel.

Bet your saw shop guy could relpace the fuel line for bout $15 in labor +parts.

You may have just gotten a lemon.

I have run huskys for a long time. goodsaws. I hope you figure this out.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #16 on:** September 10, 2005, 01:00:29 pm »

You guys age great, thanks for all the advice.

Today, I got a new spark plug and put that in....no change... still runs 10-20 beats and stalls.

Next, as "Woodbowl" suggested, I got the plastic squirt bottle with fuel mix in it. By manually squirting a stream/drops into the carb I could keep the engine running, it would rev up no problem. So I guess I have a fuel supply problem.

Am I right that this fuel problem could be caused by 1 of the 3 things:
1. Crack in fuel line
2. Broken seal somewhere in the engine case
3. Bad diaphragm in the carburetor
4. ??

The fuel line - I am not really sure how to access it to remove it and re-route it. Anybody done this operation?

Broken seal - hmmm there must be a lot of possibilities. The crank seems snug when I check it for side play at the clutch. Would it be worth trying to spray/drip fuel mix on the crank seal by the clutch to see if it will suck fuel through a leak there?

The carb kit install I have done many times and that’s not a problem just bit of trouble to get the parts.

Thanks

Tim

woodbowl · « **Reply #17 on:** September 10, 2005, 01:29:19 pm »

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 10, 2005, 01:00:29 pm

You guys age great

I know you got yer' g's and r's cornfuzzed, but we do age great as well.

If the fuel filter is in the bottem of the tank attached to the fuel line, you can hook it with a piece of wire, pull it off and pull your line out the other way. To put in a new line, do the reverse. If it's not the line or diafram kit, some small engine service centers have a carb shaker to dislodge particles during the soak. Sometimes the new carb is the only way.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #18 on:** September 10, 2005, 02:00:20 pm »

Opps, on that , hope that bad spelling doesn't indicate my mechanical ability!

Okay, I think I can run a new fuel line using your method.

While I was looking for which panel to remove in or to replace the fuel line, I saw the tank breather under the shrouding....I want to clean that fella too.

One thing I DID NOT do was use carb cleaner. I just used compressed air to blow out all the orifaces etc in the carb. Does carb cleaner get stuff out that compressed air wont.

Tim

twoodward15 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 10, 2005, 04:08:30 pm »

You've got to use carb cleaner. Also, if there is a filter on the end of your fuel line (at the bottom of the tank) then you should remove and clean/replace it. That could very possibly be your entire problem. I'd probably start there and then if that doesn't work move on to the carb rebuild. If you are going to take it apart or already have you should have either used new seals to reassemble or rebuil the carb. A kit is gonna run you about $12 I'd guess.

woodbowl · « **Reply #20 on:** September 13, 2005, 07:17:19 am »

Tim,
I figure since we haven't heard from you in 3 days, you've got that saw running like a charm or either you chunked it in the creek. Don't leave us hangin'. This is what some folks live for. Sittin' by the computor all day wondering if chainsaw_louie got his saw running or not.............If you still can't get it cranked, try tieing the pull cord to the phone line on your computor. Hollar when, and we'll all pull our end at the same time. If that don't work, we got some more ideas.

jokers · « **Reply #21 on:** September 13, 2005, 01:58:35 pm »

Tim,

If you chucked that saw in a creek, just give me the general lattitude and longitude coordinates(I love a challenge) and I`ll glady go pull it out so that you don`t get in trouble with the DEC. I`m just that nice a guy.

What`s the word?

Russ

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2005, 05:45:51 pm »

You guys are too funny! The truth is that up till today, I didn't have anything to report but now I know that I can't leave the thread run cold.

Okay, Sunday night, I figured it was time to order some new parts. I checked on the internet for a couple of places I know like Jacks Small Engines and MFG Parts etc but I thought I would give Madsens a try. In the past I bought a raker gauge from them and now I get their catalog. They seem like real good outfit so Monday monrning I called them and asked if they sell Husky parts (its not indicated in the catalog)...sure enough they do and they know exactly what I am talking about. So I ordered

Walbro WG7 carb kit
starter rope (its getting shorter each time it breaks)
spark plugs
fuel line
filter
tank breather

All the stuff I could think of, cause eventually I'll need it and they have it for cheaper than the local shops (paid $3.95 for a spark plug locally, Madsens=2.35)

While I had the Madsens guy on the line I described my saws trouble and he said "its most likely in the carb...soak it in laquer thinner for 30 minutes....remove that fuel screen and make sure its not plugged up..."

So, last night thats what I did. Soaked it in Laquer Thinner for 30 minutes and then put the compressed air to it. Now this is where something happened that sort of worries me. ... I was blowing it dry, hitting all the little orifaces, holes etc. with the air hose and all of a sudden 'Pop' out shoots this little tiny piece of something. It wasn't clear what it was so I crawled around on the garage floor and found this tiny, white, plastic plug that I assume came from somewhere in the carb. Well I thought that I really screwed something up now and I can't even go to the forum with that fact and why didn't I just take it to the shop. Hoping that it isn't important, I reassembled the carb without that little plug. It was 11pm at the time so I had to call it quits and leave the test run till today, and have not gotten to it.

My big hope is that the laquer thinner cleaned out something that was clogged up. The screen was not clogged but i took it out anyway prior to the soak.

So what do you guys think about that mystery plug that came out of the carb? There are parts diagrams out there for walbro carbs, it may be necessary to refer to one of those.

Otherwise the carb kit, fuel line, tank breather is coming from Calif-->NY in a week or so and those parts, especially the new diaphram, may solve it. But I'll keep you posted as soon I test this latest go round.

Thanks again for all the encouragement!

ehp · « **Reply #23 on:** September 13, 2005, 06:15:24 pm »

was it plastic or alumium, take a look at the side of your carb that has the needle and seat, it has the little arm that operates the needle to let fuel in, now with the carb in your hand and you can look at the needle jet or the hole it sits in look across towards the butterfly end of your carb is a small round welch plug or if it is gone you will have a hole with 4 small holes . if you can see them that welch plug has came out.

Now if it is a piece of plastic with a hole in it , it is from the throttle shaft or your choke shaft.

woodbowl · « **Reply #24 on:** September 14, 2005, 10:35:54 am »

I'm getting close to the bottem of the barrel for solutions. Some of these other guys are pretty sharp on the nitty gritty. If your not in too big a hurry and like to tinker, the problem(s) will be found and some new knowlege will be gained along the way.

twoodward15 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 14, 2005, 11:40:05 am »

It's time to ease up on the compressed air. Just use a rag to dry parts. No need to use your air compressor. It's kind of like cleaning your ears with 125 psi. Not a real smart thing to do. THese small carbs aren't as tough as the old quadra-bog on the 79 chevy truck. Just squirt on the carb cleaner and gently clean the part with a rag. Leave the air tank empty.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #26 on:** September 14, 2005, 12:30:28 pm »

I'll try to send a picture of the little white plastic plug that flew out of the carb. I hope it was the piece that actually came from the carb and not something else on the garage floor that I mistook for the right piece! But I'll get a picture up here and it will be clearer.

I just got a response to the email I sent to Madsens and their tech guy says:

"Hello,
Pull your muffler off and look for damage to the front of the piston.
It sounds like a seizure damaged piston. " He says its common for this to happen to milling saws (thats me).

Thats pretty depressing to think about....actually after reading the article on the Madsens website about EPA saws, its seems like a blown saw waiting to happen which is real depressing. I thought I bought something that would last ..... anybody hear of saw insurance?

So I'll cross my fingers and have a look at the front of the piston. Wish me luck....

Tim

Have a read here http://www.madsens1.com/epa.htm

woodbowl · « **Reply #27 on:** September 14, 2005, 01:30:11 pm »

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 14, 2005, 12:30:28 pm

..... anybody hear of saw insurance?

Yea............I saw insurance availible when I got my sawmill. It cost too much so I decided not to get any.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #28 on:** September 15, 2005, 12:15:12 am »

I got the message about not using the compressed air... wont do that again.

Tonight I took off the muffler and checked for scoring and melting of the pistion like the tech guy at Madsens thought was the most probably cause of the 'wont rev' trouble. Well, there are some black marks on the piston by the exhaust port side, but it was not long scoring/scratches and definately not melting of pistion top or piston rings. From what I could see the piston looks in pretty good shape and ditto for the rings. I am going to say then that that is NOT the cause. Unfortunately the exhaust gasket came off in 2 pieces and my order from Madsens already left. I gotta find a good local shop here in NYS.

Hey, I took some high res digital pictures of the piston, and the little plastic carb piece but I kept getting errors on the upload screen, even after I shrank the image quality down to 27KB it still complained "Pixel allowance exceeded". Not sure what thats about.

For now, my next step is to wait for the carb kit and fuel line and see what that does. If nothing else, I know a heck of a lot more about this saw and how to care for it than when I started digging into this problem.

Tim

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #29 on:** September 15, 2005, 12:19:22 pm »

I was not able to upload the pictures to this site but I got the instructions and will post them later.

I did send the pictures to Madsens and they said

"Hello,
You definitely have a seizure damaged piston. You will need a new piston and possibly cylinder if it can not be honed clean. Sorry for the bad news. "

Thats a rather severe appraisal and I dont get it how a saw that will rev with gas fed through the carb needs to have the piston replaced but I dont have the experience.

ehp · « **Reply #30 on:** September 15, 2005, 12:48:48 pm »

Without seeing it forsure I would say you are correct, you donot need a jug and piston because of what you did, it is not a hard thing to fix once it is in good hands, where are you so I can tell you if I can where to go for help?

floyd · « **Reply #31 on:** September 15, 2005, 02:53:00 pm »

anyone ask you about the diaphragm in carb?

woodbowl · « **Reply #32 on:** September 15, 2005, 09:35:42 pm »

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 15, 2005, 12:19:22 pm

"Hello,
You definitely have a seizure damaged piston. You will need a new piston and possibly cylinder if it can not be honed clean. Sorry for the bad news. "

Thats a rather severe appraisal and I dont get it how a saw that will rev with gas fed through the carb needs to have the piston replaced but I dont have the experience.

I question that as well Tim. Put in a carb kit. That is the standard practice anyway. It's one of the first things the shop would do. I still don't know if your fuel line sucks air and fuel filter is clogged. Actually, those things are first. It ain't gettin' gas that's for sure, scored piston or not!

CHARLIE · « **Reply #33 on:** September 16, 2005, 01:30:58 am »

I have a Craftsman chainsaw I use to cut bowl blanks for my woodturning. It got so it would start but not run but about 10 seconds. At the time I had a neighbor that was a great backyard mechanic. He noticed airbubbles in the fuel line. The fuel line from the tank to the carb looked good, but we found it was cracked inside the tank. The small engine repair guy where I went to buy a new fuel line said that the fuel will harden them and they crack. As soon as I put in a new fuel line it ran perfect. I'm betting your fuel line is cracked inside the fuel tank. By the way, I know the Craftsman is pretty light duty saw but it sure has been a good one and done everything I need it for.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #34 on:** September 17, 2005, 12:42:37 am »

Phew, now I think I got some pictures uploaded. First time thru the pictures took too much memory, then they had too many pixels, took muffler off again to re-shoot with low res mode, then install software to crop pics down to 30kb and finally they uploaded. Soooo here they are....

This is that mystery part that flew out of the carb while cleaning it with compressed air (which I will not do again). Its not the welch plug. Any ideas

And this is a blurry shot of the piston which was said to be seizure damaged. Is this a piston that needs replacing or is it pretty common to see carbon build up on the exhaust side of pistons like in the pic below?

I am getting real good at taking apart and re-assemblying the carb, muffler etc. Nothing like practice to learn something. I now see that I waited way too long to put a wrench to this saw. I figured it was rocket science and better leave well enough alone but tightening up the muffler, cleaning the carb etc is no big deal if you are clean and careful.

I got a suspicion what the problem might be but I'm scared to mention it cause if I am right you fellas would really kick my butt. Does it say anywhere in the forum rules that we got to fess up everything?

OK, well if you say so, heres what I am thinking....when I 'changed the gas' , I may have had water in the mix can that I put the new fuel in and water got into the saw. Cause when I poured the tank dry into a clear plastic container, I saw some water in the bottom. Tonight I cleaned the tank dry. I totally emptied the gas can and went and got a gallon of 93 octane. Tomorrow, I'll put in that clean fuel in and give it a try. I'll let you know.

Tim

woodbowl · « **Reply #35 on:** September 17, 2005, 06:28:05 am »

Not to worry Tim. The fessin' up thread has already been started by da Boss his self. Fill free to unload yer' guilt, brain strains ect. Everybody's done it at one time or another, they just don't admit it. Here's the thread.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=12725.0

Kevin · « **Reply #36 on:** September 17, 2005, 09:42:52 am »

Here's the G7 ...

G7 link

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #37 on:** September 17, 2005, 09:55:00 pm »

Well I wish I made it to the "fessin up " site - by that I mean that I wish the problem was water in the fuel and changing it out solved the problem. But the saw is still not reving or running right with with good fuel and no water. Still waiting for the carb kit.

Thanks for that link to Walbro schematics, thats a great resource, got it bookmarked in my 'chainsaw tech' folder I can see there is a little plug in the diagram - got to view it on a better monitor to be sure it is what I think.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #38 on:** September 19, 2005, 10:51:52 pm »

Here's an update after some more investigation, while waiting for the new parts to arrive.

Someone suggested that the fuel cap vent might be clogged but these caps don't have a vent hole. So the next logical thing to check is the tank vent itself. I figured out how to lower the fuel tank/handle assembly and pull out the fuel tank vent. My assumption here is that the vent should allow a ONE Way flow of air. I tried blowing through it, in the towards-tank direction and there was a LOT of resistance - this resistance may be normal but it seems to me that its too much and it may be holding back the flow of fuel.

I have noticed that recently, the saw leaked gas from around the tank cap. I just figured that the O-ring around the cap was bad and just screwed the cap down tighter. But this leaking may have been due to a clogged tank vent, or the cap is bad. I guess I could try loosening the fuel tank cap and trying to start it. That should pretty much answer the question of tank ventilation causing the fuel starving/stalling situation.

Tim

twoodward15 · « **Reply #39 on:** September 20, 2005, 07:19:02 am »

Definately. Fill the tank half way and leave the cap off totally if you have to.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #40 on:** September 22, 2005, 11:22:41 pm »

Well folks, I got Good News! The saw started and ran today! Hurrah! To celebrate the occasion, I cut up a bunch of firewood. It idled and revved just fine.

The last thing I did to it was remove fuel tank vent and blew it out with compressed air. My thought was that it was clogged but the air blasted it free and cleared whatever obstruction there was. When I got the NEW vent, it too had a lot of resistance so I put the original one back in figuring resistance is normal and the saw started up with a few pulls. After some turns of the low speed jet and then set the Idle and it was ready to go.

I never put in the carb kit, but will when it arrives, just cause after 2 years it cant hurt. It was back ordered.

Never replaced the fuel line - did you know they charge $18 for the Husky fuel line Holy Mackerel! I got one on order for the future

Thanks for all the help to figure this out. I sure learned a lot about how to take care of this machine. Would there be any interest in posting a flow chart of troubleshooting steps to get a dead saw running? I could put together a first draft and the others people could suggest additional steps. It just seems like it would have been an unfortunate waste of money if I had of had the piston and cylinder replaced as someone outside the forum suggested to me. Am I the only chainsaw dummy here?

Anybody knows where to get Husky parts in the NY NJ CT area, which has a good stock of parts?

Tim
aka chainsaw_louie

ehp · « **Reply #41 on:** September 22, 2005, 11:56:13 pm »

no it is done everyday . Just glad you got it to work,

woodbowl · « **Reply #42 on:** September 23, 2005, 09:26:30 am »

Glad you got er going. When that kit comes in, if it's still running good, personally I wouldn't mess with it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it............One thing still puzzels me.

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 22, 2005, 11:22:41 pm

The last thing I did to it was remove fuel tank vent and blew it out with compressed air. My thought was that it was clogged but the air blasted it free and cleared whatever obstruction there was. When I got the NEW vent, it too had a lot of resistance so I put the original one back in figuring resistance is normal and the saw started up with a few pulls.

Never replaced the fuel line

You never did say if it ran good with a loose gas tank cap. That would have vented the tank. If it didn't...............I think something quirky is going on! And it happens. The saw is running fine. The saw is not running fine. Those are the type of problems that drives people crazy. If it was really crud in the carb, hopefully it kept going. Put that kit on the shelf for later and run the stew out of it!

Quote from: chainsaw_louie on September 22, 2005, 11:22:41 pm

Am I the only chainsaw dummy here?

No.............the rest of us just don't have the nerve to admit it.

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #43 on:** September 23, 2005, 10:10:21 pm »

At this point I recall that I did not get a good test with a loose gas cap, . That was a bit of a challenge for me due in part to the position of the tank - and not wanting to spill the gas. My cap O-ring is bad and will leak a lot if left loose. This test would have been an easy way to verify a vacuum pressure problem. I'll be sure to remember it for the future. Thanks!

chainsaw_louie · « **Reply #44 on:** September 27, 2005, 11:46:36 pm »

Hey Fellas,

I came across this parts diagram/book on the Husqvarna site, they got these for all their machines. Its a great help, it has the complete schematic of the saw including clutch, as well as all the parts to the Walbro carb - including that mysterious white plug, I was talking about...

I wish I had seen this diagram when I got the 3120xp

http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/usa/2003/I03000/I0301155.pdf

To find any Husky saw part diagram, navigate to www.husqvarna.com
Click Support
enter Product= chainsaws
enter Category= parts
enter Keywords = 3120xp etc
then hit seearch and you will see a link for Illustrated Parts List (IPL), thats the doc

-CSL

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Author Topic: Husky 3120 wont rev - stalls - did a carb clean up and no difference ??! (Read 2736 times)