Author Topic: BUZZ'S new bandmill project NEW PICS! (Read 6476 times)

Buzz-sawyer · « **on:** August 23, 2005, 06:50:48 pm »

I am putting together a bandmill and I have some ideas for idler side adjustments with two bolts.......similair to this home made configeration.....any suggestions?

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2005, 07:07:27 pm »

Buzz

My thought would be to move the tightener stud closer to the pivot point. As shown, it seems it is bound to create a lot of bind on the slide mechanism. Move it closer to where the white arrow is, as shown. Otherwise, looks clean and workable to me.

Seems the closer in line with the hinge pin, the less bind on the slide, near this location. Just a thought.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2005, 07:45:29 pm »

Coat that slide with "Slick Plate" or something similar. Looks good to me.

How far along are ya

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2005, 09:44:25 pm »

Thank for the input so far...........
I am ready to start welding thr power head tommorow
Plan is for a 2 poster with 20" wheels,(ford tempo)
41" in the throat, will square a 48" log.

J_T · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:01:08 pm »

Buzz close to the way I'm doing mine only thing I'm gunna put a spring on that adjuster

Im just using a longer bolt

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:26:20 pm »

Better plan on a STOUT log turner. 48" log is tough to turn.

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:28:41 pm »

I'm just wondering if you can get enough "racking" strength from a two post mill to hold the blade tension.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:38:53 pm »

I dont plan on dealing with too many 48" logs...but I have before, and probably will again.....

I am building this WHOLE thing STOUT.....More so than the commercially built mills I have seen this size.
Tom those cantalever deals seem to hold up with a one post design?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #8 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:56:56 pm »

With your engineerin Buzz, I got complete confidence in ya. Go for it.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #9 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:58:46 pm »

Well..........I dont think I will bust it toooo easy , BUT I may need to use my F-600 to pull it

I am building the carriage advance like the one on my circle mill.hydrailic pulling cable.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #10 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:00:15 pm »

Ya goin for a chain turner ??

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #11 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:08:03 pm »

I was just gonna ask for suggestions.....

the deal is I want to have the ability to cut the occasional monster log for a table or some thing........but also use the thing for run of the mill16-28 inch stuff.
I was wondering if a winch wrap around style could be used to turn the big boys, and also have a conventional WM style turner??

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:12:03 pm »

Only thing I know is, them big logs really hit the bunks hard, if you can't cushion the drop.

Biggest we turned, so far, was 43" Live Oak. It was tough to turn with cant hooks, and we thought the mill broke when the log turned face down.

Use lotsa thinkin before ya construct something.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:23:55 pm »

why not put a system of car shocks or something to slow down the drop underneath? if you're worried of the big ones hitting? I'm sure something could be figured out to slow it down some.

I know a 15-20" cant hits hard when being flipped, and you can sort of make it slide on the backstops.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:29:51 pm »

ya Dan
I am thinkin that on the bigger ones I would probably flat saw it half way through to start...
BUT it seems like a set of angled arms/stops that would catch the cantand ease it down or beak the fall could help on the big chuncks, when they are falling

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:32:26 pm »

If you are going to be slabbing, I have two suggestions. Both are simple.

!. Plan to cut real short logs. I'm talking about almost firewood lengths. Tree surgeons will cut these big logs up into short lengths just so they can get them on a truck. Most of them are using manual labor.

-You need dogs that are close together and you need bunks that will hold a short log without it falling through the mill.
-It would be nice if your turner could be used but it might be in conflict with the clamp.

2. Drag-backs are really handy when handling heavy stuff on a bandmill.

-You need the gig back power to pull a heavy timber.
-You need to configure the controls of the mill so that they aren't in the way of the slab being pulled back
-It would be handy if a set of material handling rollers were incorporated in the design of the mill to make it easy to get the heavy stuff off of the mill and onto a trailer.
-Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill.

Now that the mill is helping to handle the material, make sure that you have covered safety. The workers will be helping machinary and it will get them. Get rid of all pinch points in the worker's area. Try to keep workers from getting under a heavy slab as it is pulled from the top of a big log. (they could lose a hand or worse). Smoothe all edges and allow no sharp points in the working area.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:58:44 pm »

Tom
I like your suggestions.
I hadnt put a lot of thought into drag back, however the sytem I am planning is very strong.....capable of moving whole logs (cable system like on a circular miil)...so that will help in pull back,

I had thought about making back stops move able on the set up close to the operators end...on a shaft maybe.

I have 2 10' foot sets of roller tables availabe that could load directly into a truck .
I think the thoughtful layout for drag back could help a whole buch when cutting ties or timbers as well.

I didnt quite follow this part,"Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill"

jpad_mi · « **Reply #17 on:** August 24, 2005, 07:33:39 am »

Buzz,
48"

Yeah, now that's a saw!

Here's a pic of the tensioning/tracking mechanism on my project:

I used two 3/4" hyme joints (rod ends) at the top and bottom, and a smaller one (5/8inch?) at the center of the inboard end. The hymes allow me to adjust the camber and caster for good tracking. I put a 1750# trailer stub axle through the two 1/4" plates and welded to the front side plate only (to allow me to seperate it later). It does bear on the rear plate to spread the load. Tensioning is accomplished by pulling the hub with the acme rod.

The first picture is upside down; it was taken while it was sitting on the floor.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #18 on:** August 24, 2005, 03:28:54 pm »

Thanks for posting your set up!
I have my parts laying out flat ready to get committed today....
I could cut a larger log (UP to 58") IF I had a 9 foot lift capability.........but I will save that for the next one

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #19 on:** August 24, 2005, 03:55:26 pm »

Buzz,I built mine as a two post mill and it wanted to walk going down the track,I only was using two inch pipe as supports.It was real easy to ad two more supports and some gussets and problem solved.I like both posts on idler adjustments.mine is not that complex,just a couple of jack bolts on my slider

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #20 on:** August 24, 2005, 04:36:30 pm »

We seem to be missing some pics here

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #21 on:** August 24, 2005, 06:15:14 pm »

Yep...the ones showin how homey tightens up and turns

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #22 on:** August 24, 2005, 07:20:01 pm »

I've posted MANY pics of Homey, from conception to Gittin-R-Done.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #23 on:** August 24, 2005, 08:40:39 pm »

Yep and I have everyone you ever posted.......and all the dialog you posted........

I came to this forum to learn initially and ya were just starting on your mill, so I followed your process with pretty good attention...you posted about 13 pages of details and pics.
.
Never recal seeing one specifically on this subject though?

Its Ok got the general idea from larger pics........

I got mine pretty much done today any how...I will get some pics up tonight or tommorow.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #24 on:** August 24, 2005, 09:36:43 pm »

WOW

13 pages

Really

Wonder if any of that info actually is any good

Here ya go, just for kicks

Paul_H · « **Reply #25 on:** August 24, 2005, 09:42:54 pm »

Yes,it was good info Harold.I've gone back and looked at the old threads a few times.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #26 on:** August 24, 2005, 09:44:34 pm »

Well, that's nice to know that I could contribute a little to this great forum.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #27 on:** August 24, 2005, 09:45:07 pm »

Well outta 285 pages there ought to be at least 13 good ones

I always thought ya did a good job of spainin it

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #28 on:** August 24, 2005, 09:46:24 pm »

tnlogger · « **Reply #29 on:** August 25, 2005, 12:00:04 pm »

Buzz just think what'll happen when he gets to CR and shows us how ta mill snakes with a swinger

Rod · « **Reply #30 on:** August 25, 2005, 03:20:22 pm »

buzz,the way your building yours is just the same way mine is built.

beenthere · « **Reply #31 on:** August 25, 2005, 03:43:25 pm »

FDH
I like your tensioner, if I figured it right. Are the two 'bolts' used to tighten and set tension as shown by the arrows? This seems that it would relieve any bind in the slider, like Paschale's trombone

.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #32 on:** August 25, 2005, 04:13:04 pm »

Bolt closest in the photo, is the one that gets tight, and then will warp the axle around to get proper tracking. The farthest bolt, is the one you wrench on, to take up the slack and use to put pressure on the arm to make the twist.

Boy, these directions are goofy, EH

It's been a looonnnnnng day.

beenthere · « **Reply #33 on:** August 25, 2005, 04:45:47 pm »

Thanks, at least you got back with the directions before you have them all converted into spanish.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #34 on:** August 25, 2005, 05:02:24 pm »

Im thinkin about two things..........
I want to make the rails short like 16 feet...then have 2 sections on either end with rollers to feed long beams through the blade while it is stationary....say after ya get the one side flat ....any input?
The other is weather or not to put the primary lateral beam on the power head up above the wheels for more depth of cut or go the easier way and put it on the wheels center..........

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #35 on:** August 25, 2005, 05:30:49 pm »

Heres some of what I did yesterday
Donor parts from a 3.5 inch square tub from John Deer impliment

Partially cut "EYE" which will hing toe for band wheel.

Part of an old heavy bench press I collected on cleanup day in town....will be the tensioner

Finally, the components befor welding

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #36 on:** August 26, 2005, 01:02:01 pm »

Being that I know very little about the practacle operation of a bandmill..........heres a question for ya.
Is it possible..or practacle to initially square a log by cutting the BOTTOM fslab off , then the top , thereby saving one turn?
The drawback I see could be pulling the slab out as ya rotate the log, and the fact it is a tad harder to judge the cut.
I am trying to determine if the extra effort involved in extending the depth of cut is worthwhile.

weather or not to put the primary lateral beam on the power head up above the wheels for more depth of cut or go the easier way and put it on the wheels center

Tom · « **Reply #37 on:** August 26, 2005, 01:21:41 pm »

The thing that would stop you from cutting the bottom slab off first on most mills is the dogging system. The dogs and clamps would get in the way. The curve of the log would prohibit putting the dogs and clamps beneath the blade. You would have to come up with a top dog and clamp of some sort and I doubt it would be worth it.

Once the cant is squared, you can cut from the bottom if the throat of the mill is deep enough for the cant to pass through it. As a matter of fact, this is one way of quarter sawing in a band mill. That is why the mills have that little 3/4 inch square of metal welded to the bunk. It acts as a dog and can't be hit when the blade is at its lowest point.

Tom · « **Reply #38 on:** August 26, 2005, 01:28:57 pm »

Being concerned about the depth of cut is a good concern. It's frequently done that a sawyer will split a large cant. You should be able to pass at least 13" through the height of the throat. If you make it 16", then you don't have to worry so much about the bowing of the cant as the stresses are released.

It also allows the sawing of a 12" cant through and through when you don't have an off-bearer. You can cut to the bed and then drag-back the entire stack of lumber to be off loaded by the sawyer.

It would be tempting to decrease the height of the throat by using smaller band wheels and that would result in a shorter blade, but, it isn't worth it.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #39 on:** August 26, 2005, 02:01:10 pm »

I have initially planned on a 19" depth of cut in the throat.....reason being that in order to cut sross ties I could easily split a cant of 18".
I have been thinking of something like the peterson dogs for sawing the bottom slab first??
The first design would obviously afford deeper cut.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #40 on:** August 26, 2005, 02:27:47 pm »

Turn the cant after sawing to 14".

The top picture is what you want. remember that the wheels will protrude into the throat area more on the top of the throat.

Yer gonna need a heavy duty sawframe for the big an opening. I woodn't wanna hafta try to saw a 48" ANYTHING on a bandmill, unless you can use a forklift or boom

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #41 on:** August 26, 2005, 02:48:55 pm »

Have wheel loader boom pole truck...........tractor.......
But still not crazy about sawing anything over 34"

When sawing a largish log getting the heart centred and getting the side wood cants calls for some real strategery.....

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #42 on:** August 26, 2005, 03:14:55 pm »

Think TABLES

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #43 on:** August 26, 2005, 03:30:06 pm »

Yea, that IS what I been thinkin...........
There is no market here for a 4 foot long 40 inch walnut..........But if I could cut it 3"x36"

$$$$$$$$$$$$

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Oh my gosh I m gonna be RICH

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #44 on:** August 26, 2005, 05:25:20 pm »

Do I get a commission for all the pages and photos you copied from

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #45 on:** August 26, 2005, 06:09:25 pm »

You bet ...you get to read all my pages

Im bound to have 13 good ones outta 195

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #46 on:** August 26, 2005, 09:47:56 pm »

Well finished up the tensioner and toe assembly today.with exception of the bolts ....
Here is a pic or two

Back at the grind

It was a little tricky getting all the parts fit up and straight for welding

Welded assembly

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #47 on:** August 26, 2005, 10:14:38 pm »

Been wondering why everyone makes a hinge ?? I get enough twist to make the blade scrub the guide flange or, run forward off the roller. Doesn't take much movement ?? We got things lined up very close, before clamping and welding.

Still, impressive piece of handywork.

jpad_mi · « **Reply #48 on:** August 27, 2005, 08:33:41 am »

Looking great so far. What do you plan to use for axles and hubs?

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #49 on:** August 27, 2005, 11:22:18 am »

Thanks
The idler will be the rear hub from a ford tempo and the drive will be the drive hub cvj and axle of the same.
I have considered using a straight axle shaft outta Olds rear end when I had planned on usung bigger tires.

woodbowl · « **Reply #50 on:** August 27, 2005, 02:01:14 pm »

Quote from: Buzz-sawyer on August 26, 2005, 01:02:01 pm

Being that I know very little about the practacle operation of a bandmill..........heres a question for ya.
Is it possible..or practacle to initially square a log by cutting the BOTTOM fslab off , then the top , thereby saving one turn?

Question for all.............There seems to be something inherently stable about leaving the slab on untill all the cutting is done. (on a swinger that is / correct me if I'm wrong) I've noticed on my band mill that I will get more thick or thin ended boards after I rotate to a flat bottem. (side 3) I'm thinking that sawing all the way down to the bed without ever turning the log would produce more uniform thicknesses. I realize that this is not the way to saw unless it has a special purpose. But for illustration sake it seems to be doing exactly what a swinger would do. Do swingers get better consistant end thicknesses? Do bandmills not? On average of course.

Tom · « **Reply #51 on:** August 27, 2005, 03:20:21 pm »

The 90 degree angle formed by the side and bottom slabs on a swinger help to combat tension in the log that resident regardless of the type saw.

Bandmills handle this tension by turning the cant.

Some mills depend on the strength of the dogging devices to hold the log.

The only camparison that could be afforded between the 90 degree swing mill configuration and a bandmill would be if no turning were done and the log was just cut through and through. Each piece would then have to be edged and you still wouldnl't have the stability afforded by vertical slab of the swing mill.

I think that you are talking about such different animals in the different types of saws that one should adhere to the proven disciplines.

Cutting straight through a cant with a bandmill will not provide fewer tension-affected boards, unless the clamping device can overcome the wood's strain.

woodbowl · « **Reply #52 on:** August 27, 2005, 04:34:39 pm »

Quote from: Tom on August 27, 2005, 03:20:21 pm

Cutting straight through a cant with a bandmill will not provide fewer tension-affected boards, unless the clamping device can overcome the wood's strain.

One fellow inparticular with an 8" Lucas, in my neck of the woods seems to like to cut all his boards without the side slab attached. His wood has turned out very uniform. Either he has yet to encounter a really disobediant log or he is on to something concerning the gradual removal of layers to the point that the stress is evenly distributed and shows only minute change. I'm not talking about zero stress. I'm talking about a difference of any kind when it comes to sawing from top to bottem with a slab bottem VS with a flat bottem. (2"-3" previously removed) If I knew this to be fact, it would provide possible insite to understanding stress factors from a different angle.

Rod · « **Reply #53 on:** August 27, 2005, 06:18:25 pm »

here is some pictures of how my mill is built buzz http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/shawnrodney/album?.dir=e3ef

Tom · « **Reply #54 on:** August 27, 2005, 07:56:50 pm »

Woodbowl,
I'd guess that the stress in the board is evenly distributed and you would find it if you measured each board. You would also see it if you examined the movement of the bottom of the log away fromt he ground as he removed boards.

I prefer to make an effort to relieve stress as I'm sawing with my band mill because I've had cants jump out of the clamp regardless of how tight I have them pinched. When this happens I'm left with squaring the cant again with trim cuts.

There are times when you can't avoid trim cuts, but, I would rather if I can.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #55 on:** September 23, 2005, 11:13:52 am »

an Update:
I have done a bit more since last posting.
I have built the power head frame and attached the tensioner assembly, and the stub axle from an old running gear for a wagon.
I have a load of pics...bUT am not on my own computer at this time.

Furby · « **Reply #56 on:** September 23, 2005, 12:24:53 pm »

We'll be looking for the pics when you can get them on.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #57 on:** September 25, 2005, 05:03:11 pm »

getting set up for welding the head squre and level

A shot of the tensioner welded up to the power head frame

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #58 on:** September 25, 2005, 05:07:32 pm »

Lookin good

Paschale · « **Reply #59 on:** September 25, 2005, 06:15:43 pm »

Impressive bit of handiwork there Buzz!

JimBuis · « **Reply #60 on:** September 25, 2005, 06:35:27 pm »

Heh there Buzz!! How come I didn't get to see any of this project this summer? And by the way.............what are you building there a tank or a bulldozer?

Having seen your circle mill there is no doubt in my mind that this band mill will do the job!

Maybe I can see this outfit next summer.

Jim

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #61 on:** September 25, 2005, 06:46:06 pm »

Hey Jim
I am hard on equipment
...I use it long time and with great enthusiasm..
better to over build then ..............Buzz sawyer test it.

if it passes that..well then ya got sumthin"

......
Just give me a call when ya get back home we will have another good visit......

You didnt see it cause I started it about 10 hours ago (or a month of 15 minute sesions hours

)

D._Frederick · « **Reply #62 on:** September 25, 2005, 07:07:27 pm »

Buzz,

Just a passing thought about your saw frame, I don't want to appear to be criticizing your design.

Your 2 X 4 inch tubing you are using for the saw frame appears to have an 1/8 inch or less wall thickness. With 2000-2500 lb range of band tension, you are going to have some deflection of your frame. It may go into harmonic vibration, I guess you could add more metal to the frame if you have a problem.

I built a wood splitter using a 6 X 6 I-beam that was 1/4 inch thick. It would spring enough that it was dangerous to work around.

EZ · « **Reply #63 on:** September 25, 2005, 07:58:29 pm »

Well Buzz, I agree with D.
When I built my first saw head, I made it out of 3 inch tubing 1/4 inch thick. When I tension the band it pull the wheels in, I put bracing on it and it was a little better. I finally had to build it stronger, I use 8x8 tubing 3/8 .
Nice job on the welding, keep up the good work.
EZ

Kirk_Allen · « **Reply #64 on:** September 26, 2005, 10:25:25 pm »

Well let me just clarify Buzz's work, as I have seen it first hand! The tubing is 1/4" tubing and I doubt he is going to have ANY problem with it.

I got to see his handy work on his mill and I can only say, DONT DOUBT THE BUZZ!

Nice work Don!

Furby · « **Reply #65 on:** September 26, 2005, 10:34:32 pm »

Quote from: EZ on September 25, 2005, 07:58:29 pm

I finally had to build it stronger, I use 8x8 tubing 3/8 .

Wouldn't that be a weeeeeee bit over kill

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #66 on:** September 29, 2005, 02:52:12 pm »

thanks for the input I will consider all of it....

All I can say , is that if I built that saw MUCH heavier, it would take a semi to move it

I have studied the commercial mills, and this is stouter.........

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #67 on:** September 29, 2005, 03:01:05 pm »

Gonna need a 6-71 to power it

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #68 on:** September 29, 2005, 03:22:06 pm »

well , his baby brother woULD BE NICE

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #69 on:** September 30, 2005, 10:23:23 pm »

Here is my home mader

EIGHTWGT · « **Reply #70 on:** October 02, 2005, 07:42:19 am »

Hey Buzz - How does the new saw work ? I hope she is making plenty of sawdust !

I have Bills 'simple saw' plans and started collecting steel but still have not started it... looking at your pics is motivation !

Tom

hookhill · « **Reply #71 on:** October 03, 2005, 09:30:14 am »

Buzz,
Nice work. Question, when welding on the axle stub how do you get it centered/plumb/level? Thanks.

Jim

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #72 on:** October 03, 2005, 11:21:37 am »

the simple answer.....PATIENCE

First I set up the work piece level, the i set a short torpedo level on the hub of the stub, checking at right angles frequently, I tacked an edge checked again and tacked.......got it on there fine

you got any building pics?

Norwiscutter · « **Reply #73 on:** October 03, 2005, 12:26:15 pm »

Nice looking mill Saw Miller. Got any more Pics of the build up or the head?

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #74 on:** October 03, 2005, 05:13:30 pm »

Norwiscutter,I'm sorry but I don't have any closeups of the head.When I built my mill 4 years ago,I didn't know that there so many custom builders out there or I would have saved myself a lot of trial and error.I didn't have a computer .I will try to take some shots before Thursday because it is going to be taken to an amish auction then.I have ordered an LT 40.Looks like Buzz is building one heckofa mill!!!!!

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #75 on:** October 05, 2005, 03:09:42 pm »

Quote from: EIGHTWGT on October 02, 2005, 07:42:19 am

Hey Buzz - How does the new saw work ? I hope she is making plenty of sawdust !

I have Bills 'simple saw' plans and started collecting steel but still have not started it... looking at your pics is motivation !

Tom

no dust yet...havent finished the power head yet..........
get a weldin ...you will get the bug

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #76 on:** October 06, 2005, 01:11:03 am »

Hey Buzz! I have just caught up to what you've got going here and I must say I am impressed! Sorry if my questions are naive or going over old turf, but....

What diameter log are you counting on being able to saw? I R E A L L Y like the idea of 36" wide walnut slabs! I have a bunch of 30" wide crotches that need slabbing - maybe this is the answer I have been looking for?
Will this be portable are are you nailing 'er down?

I am not following all the detail shots too well (might be easier if I were a sawyer), but it looks darn bulletproof from here. Let me know when it is ready to watch in action!

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #77 on:** October 15, 2005, 02:50:02 pm »

Hey Buzz! I have just caught up to what you've got going here and I must say I am impressed! Sorry if my questions are naive or going over old turf, but....

Hi Tom....thanks, ask away...

What diameter log are you counting on being able to saw?

This mill can saw 40-42" wide slab....and is capable of squaring at least a 48" log.

I R E A L L Y like the idea of 36" wide walnut slabs! I have a bunch of 30" wide crotches that need slabbing - maybe this is the answer I have been looking for?

i will let you know when we go into production , after the protype is running for 5-10 mbft

Will this be portable are are you nailing 'er down?
It will be portable, and we have drawn up a plan for a never seen before means of sawing the big boys.......i am considering building 2 carriages for different purposes for this unique power head

squirrel hunter · « **Reply #78 on:** October 19, 2005, 08:34:10 pm »

I am interested in picks of home made beds also. Especially the wheels that run the saw down the track, log clamps and turner. If anybody has some??

wiam · « **Reply #79 on:** October 19, 2005, 09:39:13 pm »

squirrelhunter here is a pic of my track. I have had trouble with sawdust build up on the angle. I made a new wiper the other day that seems to be cleaning better. I think I would consider running on the edge of an angle if I was starting over.

Will

Furby · « **Reply #80 on:** October 19, 2005, 09:47:21 pm »

Mine is run on angle.
It needs a wiper as well or after a bit the wheel locks up and just slides.

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #81 on:** October 19, 2005, 09:53:15 pm »

I ran mine on 1/2 inch pipe and never had any problems.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #82 on:** October 20, 2005, 06:57:32 pm »

SAw Miller, how did you construct your wheels for that?

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #83 on:** October 20, 2005, 08:12:04 pm »

I used cast iron v grooved casters with bearings and zerks from Mcmaster Carr.I welded the half inch pipe on top of inch and a quarter pipe cause thats what I had.stretch a piano wire and spot weld while keeping the 1/2 inch level.So what I ended up with was 2 x 4 tube with 1 and 1/4 pipe on top with 1/2 inch on top of that.I saw A kasco saw at a show and they used 1/2 " pipe.I also used there design of belt clutch made with an idler pulley and over shot cam lever.The original TSC idler was still good when I sold the mill....IT wasn't 2 x 4 tube it was 2 x 6..DUH.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #84 on:** October 22, 2005, 03:24:15 pm »

Sounds like you put some good thought into your mill....too bad ya didnt take a bunch more pics before it found a new home...............

I sure would enjoy seeing them

Grappletractor · « **Reply #85 on:** February 10, 2006, 07:30:13 pm »

Update time

News:

Author Topic: BUZZ'S new bandmill project NEW PICS! (Read 6476 times)

Kirk_Allen