Author Topic: BUZZ'S new bandmill project NEW PICS! (Read 6476 times)

Buzz-sawyer · « **on:** August 23, 2005, 06:50:48 pm »

I am putting together a bandmill and I have some ideas for idler side adjustments with two bolts.......similair to this home made configeration.....any suggestions?

beenthere · « **Reply #1 on:** August 23, 2005, 07:07:27 pm »

Buzz

My thought would be to move the tightener stud closer to the pivot point. As shown, it seems it is bound to create a lot of bind on the slide mechanism. Move it closer to where the white arrow is, as shown. Otherwise, looks clean and workable to me.

Seems the closer in line with the hinge pin, the less bind on the slide, near this location. Just a thought.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #2 on:** August 23, 2005, 07:45:29 pm »

Coat that slide with "Slick Plate" or something similar. Looks good to me.

How far along are ya

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2005, 09:44:25 pm »

Thank for the input so far...........
I am ready to start welding thr power head tommorow
Plan is for a 2 poster with 20" wheels,(ford tempo)
41" in the throat, will square a 48" log.

J_T · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:01:08 pm »

Buzz close to the way I'm doing mine only thing I'm gunna put a spring on that adjuster

Im just using a longer bolt

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:26:20 pm »

Better plan on a STOUT log turner. 48" log is tough to turn.

Tom · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:28:41 pm »

I'm just wondering if you can get enough "racking" strength from a two post mill to hold the blade tension.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:38:53 pm »

I dont plan on dealing with too many 48" logs...but I have before, and probably will again.....

I am building this WHOLE thing STOUT.....More so than the commercially built mills I have seen this size.
Tom those cantalever deals seem to hold up with a one post design?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #8 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:56:56 pm »

With your engineerin Buzz, I got complete confidence in ya. Go for it.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #9 on:** August 23, 2005, 10:58:46 pm »

Well..........I dont think I will bust it toooo easy , BUT I may need to use my F-600 to pull it

I am building the carriage advance like the one on my circle mill.hydrailic pulling cable.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #10 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:00:15 pm »

Ya goin for a chain turner ??

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #11 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:08:03 pm »

I was just gonna ask for suggestions.....

the deal is I want to have the ability to cut the occasional monster log for a table or some thing........but also use the thing for run of the mill16-28 inch stuff.
I was wondering if a winch wrap around style could be used to turn the big boys, and also have a conventional WM style turner??

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:12:03 pm »

Only thing I know is, them big logs really hit the bunks hard, if you can't cushion the drop.

Biggest we turned, so far, was 43" Live Oak. It was tough to turn with cant hooks, and we thought the mill broke when the log turned face down.

Use lotsa thinkin before ya construct something.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:23:55 pm »

why not put a system of car shocks or something to slow down the drop underneath? if you're worried of the big ones hitting? I'm sure something could be figured out to slow it down some.

I know a 15-20" cant hits hard when being flipped, and you can sort of make it slide on the backstops.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:29:51 pm »

ya Dan
I am thinkin that on the bigger ones I would probably flat saw it half way through to start...
BUT it seems like a set of angled arms/stops that would catch the cantand ease it down or beak the fall could help on the big chuncks, when they are falling

Tom · « **Reply #15 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:32:26 pm »

If you are going to be slabbing, I have two suggestions. Both are simple.

!. Plan to cut real short logs. I'm talking about almost firewood lengths. Tree surgeons will cut these big logs up into short lengths just so they can get them on a truck. Most of them are using manual labor.

-You need dogs that are close together and you need bunks that will hold a short log without it falling through the mill.
-It would be nice if your turner could be used but it might be in conflict with the clamp.

2. Drag-backs are really handy when handling heavy stuff on a bandmill.

-You need the gig back power to pull a heavy timber.
-You need to configure the controls of the mill so that they aren't in the way of the slab being pulled back
-It would be handy if a set of material handling rollers were incorporated in the design of the mill to make it easy to get the heavy stuff off of the mill and onto a trailer.
-Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill.

Now that the mill is helping to handle the material, make sure that you have covered safety. The workers will be helping machinary and it will get them. Get rid of all pinch points in the worker's area. Try to keep workers from getting under a heavy slab as it is pulled from the top of a big log. (they could lose a hand or worse). Smoothe all edges and allow no sharp points in the working area.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2005, 11:58:44 pm »

Tom
I like your suggestions.
I hadnt put a lot of thought into drag back, however the sytem I am planning is very strong.....capable of moving whole logs (cable system like on a circular miil)...so that will help in pull back,

I had thought about making back stops move able on the set up close to the operators end...on a shaft maybe.

I have 2 10' foot sets of roller tables availabe that could load directly into a truck .
I think the thoughtful layout for drag back could help a whole buch when cutting ties or timbers as well.

I didnt quite follow this part,"Configure each bunk with a "table" that will prevent boards/slabs etc. from going between the bunks and hanging
on the mill"

jpad_mi · « **Reply #17 on:** August 24, 2005, 07:33:39 am »

Buzz,
48"

Yeah, now that's a saw!

Here's a pic of the tensioning/tracking mechanism on my project:

I used two 3/4" hyme joints (rod ends) at the top and bottom, and a smaller one (5/8inch?) at the center of the inboard end. The hymes allow me to adjust the camber and caster for good tracking. I put a 1750# trailer stub axle through the two 1/4" plates and welded to the front side plate only (to allow me to seperate it later). It does bear on the rear plate to spread the load. Tensioning is accomplished by pulling the hub with the acme rod.

The first picture is upside down; it was taken while it was sitting on the floor.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #18 on:** August 24, 2005, 03:28:54 pm »

Thanks for posting your set up!
I have my parts laying out flat ready to get committed today....
I could cut a larger log (UP to 58") IF I had a 9 foot lift capability.........but I will save that for the next one

SAW MILLER · « **Reply #19 on:** August 24, 2005, 03:55:26 pm »

Buzz,I built mine as a two post mill and it wanted to walk going down the track,I only was using two inch pipe as supports.It was real easy to ad two more supports and some gussets and problem solved.I like both posts on idler adjustments.mine is not that complex,just a couple of jack bolts on my slider

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Author Topic: BUZZ'S new bandmill project NEW PICS! (Read 6476 times)