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Author Topic: Komatsu Crawler  (Read 1702 times)

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Offline Ironwood

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Re: Komatsu Crawler
« Reply #20 on: August 03, 2005, 10:44:27 pm »
Teach,  Tread cautiously as those heavy iron beasties can get expensive to repair. I always try to hire that work out, dirt moving, excavating. There are just too many wear points and such to go wrong. Looks like fun though. Good luck. Reid
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Offline shopteacher

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Re: Komatsu Crawler
« Reply #21 on: August 04, 2005, 09:05:16 am »
I want to thank all you for the great input.  I haven't decided what I'm going to do yet, but will tread lightly.  I have time as this is not a pressing issue.  I think I'm going to look for a little heavier machine though like a JD 450. I've learned already from your posts and will research this a lot more before laying down the cash.   If anyone knows of a real nice one give me a holler. 

Haytrader:  So that's what are those kids are doing in my shop.  Students, now that's a new concept.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Offline gmmills

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Re: Komatsu Crawler
« Reply #22 on: August 04, 2005, 10:44:22 pm »
Teach,

  If you are looking at JD 450's do not consider any 450 older than a 450C. The straight 450's and the 450B's have dry steering clutches. The 450C's and newer have wet steering clutches and brakes. They run in oil. I owned a 450C for many years. Put many hours on it and no steering clutch or brake issues. I would never consider a machine with dry clutches. Even if it was given to me. They are not very reliable and expensive to repair.  Make sure the model you are looking at has a turbo charged engine. Some 450's are naturally aspirated. The naturally aspirated engine is a gut-less pig compared to the turbo engine. Also any tracked machine you consider make sure to look at the final drive seal. Stick you head under the machine and look up at the back side of the sprockett where the drive axle exits the drive housing. If wet from oil seepage run away. If a final drive seal is leaking it will not get any better. Eventually the seal will fail completely and the internal gears and bearings will be contaminated with dirt or mud. Not a pretty site when it is torn down to repair. Many expesive pieces in a final drive housing.  Good Luck.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

 


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