How do I put set in a 30 inch cut off Saw Balde

[johnjbc]

I have a cord Wood saw that I rigged up to cut Firewood. Used a 16 horse Briggs
To drive it and it was working well.
The problem is that I have about sharpened out all the set and now the blade binds.
It has a 30” steel blade not inserted tooth.
Any Idea how much set it should have and how to put it in?
Thought about putting it on an I beam, and putting a spacer under all but the end of the tooth and using a hammer but I don’t want to break the blade.

[Tom]

John,
Not that I wouldl recommend it but the pulpwooders in years gone by used saws like that for bucking and cut-down.  They used a hammer to put set in the teeth.  There were blocks of steel that acted like a jig that they could use as an anvil but many just used a hammer.

I'm sure there are "correct" ways but apparently some of the less technical ways have worked "good enough" too.

Jeff has a hand-set that he was using on his drag-saw.  There is probably a tool similar to that available somewhere.

[D._Frederick]

John,

You will need three items to set the teeth of a cross cut blade: 1) A spider to check the set and get all the teeth with the same amount of set. 2) An anvil to keep the tooth from springing, can be a short end of shafting. 3) A hammer, about a pound in weight with the head ground to a smaller diameter.

You place the anvil so that the tooth will bend about a 1/4 of an inch from the top when struck with the hammer. The teeth are not harden,so they will not break. There was a picture of a spider posted a few days a go, should be able to make something to do the same thing.

My cross cut blade has about 1/16 of an inch per tooth of set.

[Ron Wenrich]

I have a spider guage I use for my headsaw.  I bought it off of my saw doc for less than $20 (I think).   I guess it might work for a cordwood saw.






PM me if you want his phone #

[mike_van]

There was a man near me used to do these, he had a two foot piece of old railroad track, lay the blade flat on it, and just hit every other tooth, then flip it & do the others.  The track had just the right bevel on top, he Knew just how much to hit it.  Boy, they cut nice when he was done.  Sadly, he's no longer with us.   

[rebocardo]

>Sadly, he's no longer with us.   

Another lost skill and the history behind it 

[tnlogger]

john i might be confused here  but thats no suprise are you talking about a crosscut saw or and old buzz saw with a circle blade 

[johnjbc]

It's a circle blade 

[Gipper]

John

Years ago I purchased a Setter for circle saws from Belsaw.  I think it was before they joined with Foley.  It is adjustable for blades from 6 in to 30 inches.  I bought it because I have a buzz saw with a 30 in blade.  It works, in principle, just like the post that described the man using the piece of railroad track.  However the anvil is adjustable for the amount of set desired.  It's been so long I don't remember the cost, but it wasn't too bad or I wouldn't have bought it!

I recently purchased some sharpening equipment, actually an entire sharpening shop set up, that was part of an estate sale.  It had an almost identical setter, but appears to take up to possibly a 36 or maybe 40 inch blade.  (I haven't even set it up yet )  Point being - these setters are out there, if you can find them.  Check some sharpening shops, estate sales, etc in you area.  A lot of the old timers had their own sharpening/setting equipment.  Also you might check the Foley-Belsaw, or just the Belsaw websites.  They might still have them, though most everything today is automatic and a lot more expensive. 

The kind I am talking about are manual, but all you need is a hammer.  Once you get the anvil turned to the bevel you want, you put the blade on the holder, put striker on the tooth and strike it with the hammer.  Spin the blade until you have done every other tooth, then turn the blade over and do the other side.  Wish I had a picture of one of them, though it wouldn't do any good right now, since I haven't mastered the picture thing yet!

Gipper

[hiya]

I used to use a peice of railroad rail to set 7"&10"saw blades. The same thing would work for a bigger blade. I ground a bevel on the end so that all the teeth were set the same.
Richard

[johnjbc]

Thanks for the help. I clamped a hub to the top of a steel I-beam and set the blade on it. Found a piece of metal with a curve on it and put it under the saw tooth and whacked it with a hammer 3 times. I put a mark on the top of it so that it was the same distance under the blade for every tooth. Did every other tooth then turned the blade over and did the alternate teeth. The blade in the pictures is not the thirty inch blade but a 7.25” skill saw blade . Didn’t want to take the big blade back off just for pictures.






Not sure how much set I got, guess that what the spider is for. But I sawed up a trailer load of slabs and it works great.
Don’t ask about the flat tire, broken choke cable, leaking sediment bowel, and the dead battery that made the job take way to long. 

[Peach]

just so happens to be one of my favorite saws to do !!!!!!!   if you want you can go to the menominee saw ad , get the # and give me a call .       saw dr.  ,  'peach' [ did one for jeff , ask him ]