I need the expert advise of this forum!!!

[cnl390]

I am going to buy my first chainsaw and know just about enough to make me dangerous!

My brother has a Husky and swears by it, my friend swears by a Stihl & my other friend swears at his Homelite.

I am buying it for use on my ranch where I will be clearing cedar (some up to 12 inch dia. but not many), clearing brush and triming oaks.

I would a saw that is easy to start and starts all the time.  And Kickback prevention is a plus.

I really don't care what I spend but I would think under $400.

Any and all suggestions & opinions will be much appreciated.

Charles

[fishhuntcutwood]

First of all, welcome to the forum.  Second of all, thanks for spelling out your needs and cutting so well for us.  Alot of guys just say, "Hey what saw should I get for around the farm?"  Here we go:

For smaller cedar, you can get by with a more moderate saw, compared to someone clearing oak or hickory or something like that.  Stick with a mid to upper range Stihl or Husky, and you can't go wrong.   There's other brands of very good saws out there-Dolmar, Jonsered, some Echos and so forth, but dealer support is where Stihl and Husky shine.  If you go the Husky route, I'd recommend buying from a full dealer, and not Lowe's, as they are available there, though only the lower-middle range saws. 

As far as specific models, it'll come down to how serious you are about the saw's features, how much and how hard you'll be using it, and the saw's longevity.  For Stihl's starting at the top of what you'd need, you can look at the MS 361.  Great saw, but probably more than you need.  But you'd never be short on a saw with the work you described.  That saw, depending on region you buy it in, you'll see it for $500-$590.   I have one, and in my opinion, worth every penny.  But like I said, probably more saw than you need.  Next on down, and not to be seen as any less quality saw is the MS 260.  Great saw all the way around, a perenial favorite.  Weighs less (10.5 lbs), has the power you'll need to run a 18" or even 20" bar with ease, and you can get the "Pro" model which has a decompression valve, and an adjustable oiler-both good features.  The 361 has both of these features as well.  Those are the professional range Stihl's.  If you're looking for more of a homeowner saw, look at the MS 290/310/390 series.  They're all the same saw, but with different piston/cylinders on them.  I owned a 310 for a while, and in it's role as a firewood, homeowner saw, it can't be beat.  They all weigh the same, and I think the 310 is a good balance of weigh/hp/cost.  The 290 will weigh the same as the 310 and 390, have less hp than either, but will cost less.   The 390 will have the best power to weight ratio of the three, but costs the most.  This is where the 310 fits, I think as the best compromise.  If you're going to move up into a 390, you might as well go for the 361 and get a better saw.  You can also look at the MS 280, which kinda falls in the middle of all these saws.  It's been around along time, and is a favorite of many. 

As far as Husky's I'm not a Husky guy, and can't really get into specifics like I can the Stihl's, other than to say that Husky makes a great saw.  I can tell you to check out the 359, 346 XP, 353 and the 455 Rancher.  These are all good saws that will more than do what you ask of them.  Stay away from any Husky that's a 1XX model number.  They're actually Poulan's in Husky clothing.   

When considering a saw, don't just look at price and hp, like alot of guys do.  Look at it's weight, weight is your enemy!  Look at it's features like a decompression valve, and adjustable oiler.  I'd tend to stay away from homeowner features like the Stihl Quick Adjuster, Easy 2 Start, and even the QS Dual Braking System.  These are fine features...for the homeowner who's trimming arborvitae, but there's a reason why you don't see any of these features on professional saws. (Other than the QS brake being "offered," not standard on the 361.  Above, I mentioned the saw's longevity.  Simply put, some saws are worth rebuilding and some aren't.  Some saws will cost almost as much to rebuild as a new one would.  This would be the case for the 290/310/390 series.  It's be $200+ to rebuild one, and that's almost half a new saw.  But if you're not going to hammer the saw, and a rebuild is many, many years away, if ever, then it's not a concern.   Pro users think about stuff like that, as they may rebuild a saw every couple of years, if not more.  Any of the saws I mentiond, Stihl or Husky, should handle a 16"-20" bar with ease, which should satisfy what you're using the saw for.

As far as kickback prevention, there's really no such thing, other than the piece of plastic on the tip of some cheap saws you see.  You can get kickback reducing bars and chain, but they certainly don't cut as well as the standard stuff.  The best solution for kickback is to not be afraid of it, but rather be aware of it, learn to avoid it and then cut like the dickens!  Kickback is avoidable if you're paying attention and aren't careless.  It's easy to spot a situation where it can occur, and then avoid it.

Best of luck, and let us know what you choose.

Jeff

[maple flats]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  All great saws suggested but if you are going to do just a little sawing for cleanup and then set it away, I would suggest one of the 16" or 18" poulins. The feature I like about the poulin 18" called the wildthing (really just a homeowner saw) is the chain brake feature and there 16" doesn't seem to have it. A 18" poulin with chain brake is about $150 or so. You can always put a 16" or even a 14" bar and chain on it and still have the saftey of the chain brake. Do not go this route if you are going to use the saw a real lot because it will not last as long. However this is what I use and I like the light weight of the saws. I use them quite a lot and give them good care, top quality mixing oil is the main thing (I use synthetic) and keep the chain sharp, don't use it if the weight of the saw won't do the cutting if using it on a down cut, sharpen it. Mine last about 4-6 years and have even had good luck buying factory reconditioned units. The 2 I have now were both reconditioned and one has 5 years on it (16"), the other is 3 years old and has an 18"bar. I use mine to cut firewood for my maple evaporator and sell/give some away (about 12-15 full cords/yr total)  Plus I log many of my own trees for my sawmill, do trimming for the mill  and keep my woods properly thinned for timberstand improvement (15 acres) and I own several income properties that I remove dangerous trees and trim up others as well. I also have 2 bigger saws but rarely use them unless I really need the longer bars.
Realize however that this is not really full time heavy use which would require more saw.

[sawguy21]

Finally, two sensible replies to a question that usually gets the Husky vs Stihl feud going The first echoes my perspective.

[jokers]

Yep, looks like some pretty good replies so far, with one very slight exception.

The MS280 is an entirely new model that shares no lineage or ancestry with the 028. I have an MS280 amongst my many saws and find it`s performance to be no stronger than that of the 260 yet it costs about the same and weighs more. The 280 is also built like a homeowner saw in that it has a horizontally split crankcase and extremely spongy anti-vibe. Many dealers seem to be confused about where the 270/280 fit into the line up between pro and non-pro saws given the formerly tell tale white rear handle indicating "Pro" and the ambiguous info from Stihl, but upon closer examination and use it is obvious they are "farm" saws like the 290/310/390.

Sorry if I have stepped on anyone`s toes regarding the 270 or 280, I don`t mean to say that they are not good saws, just not the equivalent of the 260 or 361.

Russ

[StihlDoc]

I would suggest the STIHL MS 260 as the best all around choice for your application if performance and lightweight are your major "wants" and price is secondary. If price is more important and weight is not a top priority, go with a STIHL MS 290 or MS 310. If you want lightweight and adequate power for the cutting you describe, the MS 280 offers the best overall value.

[jokers]

I darn near forgot to throw in a recommendation for a Husky model!

The 353 is a very good saw with a weight almost identical to the ms260 and nearly as powerful, but at a significant cost savings. It also has antivibe and air filtration superior to most other brand saws on the market.

Husky also offers the Crown Commitment, an opportunity for you to buy the saw and run it for a few weeks then return it for a full refund if it doesn`t suit your needs.

If you are going to spend the cash for a Pro quality saw you should consider checking out a 353. You shouldn`t have any problem getting one for well under $400.

Russ

[cnl390]

I want to thank everyone for sharing all of their knowledge of chainsaws, I knew I couldn't go wrong using this forum.  I have decided on the Stihl 260 or 280 or the Husky 353.  Now I want to go to a dealer and handle them all and get an idea of which one sits me best.

Thanks again,
Charles

[Chris J]

Both are proven saws.  With good maintenance, a sharp chain, & proper useage, either should last you quite a while.

Don't forget your PPE.

[cnl390]

I have been looking at the PPE and there is so much out there what would you recommend I get?

[Kevin]

If you really want some expert advice you should consider taking a chain saw training course once you get your saw.
Chaps, safetyglasses, hardhat with face shield and hearing protection, steel toe boots.
I thought I knew everything there was to know about chain saws until I had the course, after all I owned one for several years!

[tony_marks]

i think id advise the 026 also. actually more than you need for mostly under 12 inch cutting but dependable ,lite and keep its value. go on ebay and see what these go for used versus say a craftsman or pouln ,homelite etc. i alway like any tool to hold its value ,then if you decide to step up or change saws ,u got value in hand to trade oir sell ,so u can purchase what u decide u need later. but i have an feeling if u get the 260 ,u probably will just keep it and not worry about saws any more ,as u will probably feel u have as good as u need. jmo

[logger]

I have a 280 and it runs very well!!  I am very satisfied with it. I use mine for small tree felling and limbing.  I cut firewood with it too, nice all around saw.

[cnl390]

I am 99% sure I am going with the Husky 353.  I found one @ www.Husqvarna-Chainsaw.com with a 20 in. heavy duty bar, gloves, cap, t-shirt and free shipping for $344.  Case is an extra $32.95.

But I am stihl, sorry still a little confused on the PPE.  I was thinking about the hearing protectors/mesh faceguard or do I need a helmet.  Steel toed boots & gloves.  What confuses me most is all the different types of chaps & pants, please give me some suggestions.

[Ianab]

If you are going to be felling trees get a helmet combo, things have a habit of getting flicked out of trees as they come down and eventually ones going to land on your head. 

I prefer the clip on chaps myself, they are easy to remove once you finish sawing. Loading firewood on a hot summer day wearing heavy chainsaw pants isn't my idea of fun. Other guys prefer the pants which may give better protection all around the leg and help keep you warm if you are crazy enough to saw in the snow. Just get whatever fits you best I reckon. They all work on the same principle, the fluffy nylon sewn inside them clogs up the chainsaw and stalls it out, hopefully before it can take a bite out of your leg  They should all have some type of "Standards" label in them that means they have been tested to actually work.

Cheers

Ian

[cnl390]

I wouldn't mind sawing in the snow once in a while.  I think our median temperature here in South Texas is somewhere in the 80's that is why I asked about the pants, I saw where they make ones for "summer" (they didn't say summer where)  Anyway when I wear my snake chaps which are 600 denier I get really hot.

[rebocardo]

>  would a saw that is easy to start and starts all the time. 

I almost thought of recommending a Poulan Wildthing 18", which is a great saw for $150, until I saw this. Easy to start is not why they call it a Pullalot. I really liked mine and made a lot of money with it, but, easy starting it was not, though it always started.  I would skip Homelite any model.

If you have a good local Stihl dealer, I would recommend one of those. The reason being is service is everything if it is going to be the only saw you are using. Plus, the Stihl chain stays sharper far longer and if you are not going to sharpen it yourself, this really matters as that cost can add up over the years at $8 a shot. I buy Stihl chain for my Husky too. Though I do have a grinder.

I think the Husky is easier starting and has a better filter system.

After a lot of comparison shopping, I ended up buying a MS180c 14" for small stuff and used it recently to cut up four small cedars (about 8-14" on the butt end). It did fine, though it was no where as fast as a Poulan 2375 Wildthing. I did have my Husky 365 with 20" bar handy if I needed it, just a bit of overkill on a small cedar.

But, the MS180c is extremely light compared to other saws and feels more nimble while you are using it, which is the main reason I bought it. Purely subjective. My pain point was about $200 and for $250 (extra chain) it was the best feeling for long term use at waist to shoulder height when cleaning up big oaks and such.

The other bonus for the small saw (which I would not recommend doing until you have a lot of experience) is it is easier to get inside a tree and drop all the lower limbs from ground level up to 5-6 feet on a pine or cedar. Then I remove all the cut stuff from around the tree. This way I do not have a branch wack me while the tree is on the way down, I do not get snagged by a branch, or have one snap and come back on me when the tree hits. Plus, it helps the tree fall cleanly off the stump.

If you are going to be cutting a 12" DBH tree a week, I would go for horsepower and a 18-20" bar. If only once a month and you need a saw to cut some brush close to the ground, then get a saw in the 10 pounds and under class. You will find it a lot easier to use close to the ground without burying the chain in the dirt and making felling notches in small trees close to the ground.

re:brush clearing
The closest I ever came to cutting myself with a chainsaw was while I was using it to clear brush and vines. If you need to clear bushes and vines, I recommend a gas powered hedge cutter or a metal bladed brush cutter. Stihl has an awesome one that comes with a cir. saw blade that you can use to wack 3-4" trees and saplings. I have used it before to clear house lots, it works well.

When using the brush cutter, I still make a notch and felling cut, just with the brush clearer you can do it standing up and just lean on the tree or sapling to push it over.

If you need cheap for a brush cutter (not for cutting small trees - just brush) , then Ryobi 30BC for $149 (Echo too) comes with a metal clearing blade and grass trimmer head at Home Depot. You can use the other $250 for a small saw.
 
The first thing I would do is buy a helmet that comes with ear muffs and visor. Then safety chaps (I like the green ones from Baileys), steel toed boots at least 8" high, and safety gloves.

[maple flats]

Rebocardo, sorry to hear your poulin doesn't start good. Mine always start on 3 pulls or less. Cold saw, push primer 4 times, put choke on full, pull 2 times, fires on 2 but stalls because can't get choke in soon enough, then go to 1/2 choke and pull 1 more, it starts. Both of my poulins are like this and I used 2 previous that were the same, but wore them out in 4 years on 1 and 6 years on other. My saw repair man then told me to use synthetic oil and should get more life. The 2 I use now have only had synthetic and the plug and cylinder look new and have never even changed a plug on either, but I do check the gap about 2x/yr and shine a light inside cylinder to see if any problems are beginning to show. Guess I've been luckey. No I don't own stock in poulin.

[SawTroll]

I am 99% sure I am going with the Husky 353.......

I think the 353 will be  a very good choise for the use you describe.
It is probably the least expencive pro quality saw on the market, and haveing one, I can confirm that it cuts both fast and very smooth - much smoother than a comparable Stihl (026/MS260).

If you are going to have only one bar, I don't think that 20" is a very good idea though, as it will adversely affect the cutting speed of any saw in the 3 cube class. 15-16" is preferable for most use, but you can of course keep an extra 20" for those spesial occations when you really need it.

[davefrommd]

My first saw was a smaller 16" poulan about 25 years ago, still runs.  My second saw was a stihl farm boss is the one I would recommend.   I chose the farm boss because it's not to big and it's not to small.  I think it came with a 16" bar. If you buy a stihl let them know which size bar you want like 16" or 18".  Stihl is definently top quality.  Echo is known for easy starting saws also.  Stihl had a special then buy a chainsaw case and get a free chain.

Buy the helmet with metal mesh screen and ear muffs. Safety glasses get all sweaty for me to where I can't see and end up taking them off.  The metal mesh helmet works just great.  dave