Author Topic: your ideas on fence post treatment (Read 3143 times)

Buzz-sawyer · « **on:** April 28, 2005, 12:57:26 pm »

Any suggestions on where to get penta...or any treatment that will actually work on posts?
I am building about a mile of fence and have the means and patience to treat cut posts....
Problem is the Government is making it difficult to go to the farm store and BUY something that works.........ANY home made recipes of stuff that works on the farm???

J_T · « **Reply #1 on:** April 28, 2005, 01:20:05 pm »

How about that stuff they use on RR tyes

Get you two big tanks one that you can seal the end on put a presher gauge on it pump fluid out the other tank seal and light a fire under it and build up some presher use a pre set reliefe valve . Then drive to my house and we'll watch the 6 oclock news together

Cedarman · « **Reply #2 on:** April 28, 2005, 02:05:56 pm »

Illinois is between Mo and In. Both states have some good cedar posts. Good red ones don't need treated.

What kind of posts are you wanting to treat?

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #3 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:20:22 pm »

I like the cedar idea also. Up here no one would consider using anything but cedar and them posts last for years. They used to use them on rail fences here between properties and they could be found and retraced over a 100 years after being installed.

Unfortunately, they became kindling wood for the stove when I was young. $:-\$

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #4 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:25:04 pm »

Cedarman
We have very little erc here, we have osage and black locust. I dont have any erc, osage or black locust. I do have lots mixed hardwoods that I can cut to dimension on my mill for free...hence the need for economical treatment .if there is such a thing anymore.

Kirk_Allen · « **Reply #5 on:** April 28, 2005, 03:59:13 pm »

Buzz, how many posts are you needing.

I have to find out some more on the Black Locust trees the farmer is giving me but I bet we could cut almost all you need from Osage. It may take a few days to logg them and cut them but its possible. Im cheap! Food and blades:)

Cedarman · « **Reply #6 on:** April 28, 2005, 05:58:51 pm »

Kirk, I need beau coup black locust posts between 3" and 5" small end and a little over 8' long. Can pick up. Need ASAP Anyone else got any? Need about 500 to 600 all together.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #7 on:** April 28, 2005, 06:08:26 pm »

Kirk
i have been thinkin on commin over and helpin you out with you work any how...sound like we may work some fun out of it ...Could bring along a rifle and do some tack driving to (not with mine)

Ironwood · « **Reply #8 on:** April 28, 2005, 06:16:59 pm »

Some old timers say to char the ends. I would follow that up with diesel/oil and than avoid sealing the bottom....ie no concrete on the bottom just gravel , if'in you need to crete them do a ring at he top. We use alot of Locust here as well. Reid

etat · « **Reply #9 on:** April 28, 2005, 06:38:40 pm »

Agree on the concrete part. It'll trap moisture around the base of the post and rot it lots quicker.

Around here a locust will last a lot longer than a cedar post.

Cedarman · « **Reply #10 on:** April 28, 2005, 06:40:37 pm »

Peel them and char the bottom 3 or 4 feet. What the pioneers did.

Jason_WI · « **Reply #11 on:** April 28, 2005, 07:38:43 pm »

My grandpa soaked cedar fence posts in a wood barrel of saturated copper sulfate solution till the ends sticking out turned blue. You can get copper sulfate in 50# bags at any ag supply store. It is corrosive so use a plastic barrel if you try it.

Most of these posts are still solid after 50 years in the ground.

Jason

Cedarman · « **Reply #12 on:** April 28, 2005, 07:44:34 pm »

What is that much copper sulfate used for?

etat · « **Reply #13 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:02:56 pm »

Suppliment needed to add to fertilizer for some pasture ground for beef cows.

Rod · « **Reply #14 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:38:54 pm »

I don'tknow if anyone said this or not.But you can but the post in a 55 gal drum filled with used motor oil and leve them in the oil for about 30 days.Then on the fence boards and the part of the post that didn't get oil you can spray or brush the oil on the rest of the fence.

The fence will last about 30 or more years

hiya · « **Reply #15 on:** April 28, 2005, 08:56:51 pm »

One time I put some white oak post in a barrow of 1/2 used motor oil and 1/2 creasoat. Took a 55 gal. drum filled it with post then put in oil-creasoat, lit a fire under it to cook out the water,then let it set a few days. The only thing is I moved to another state so I don,t know how well it worked.
Richard

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #16 on:** April 28, 2005, 09:15:55 pm »

hiya
If I could get some creosote...that would be the end of my search

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #17 on:** April 28, 2005, 09:21:21 pm »

You can give these folks a call in Portland, Oregon; 1-888-888-6095. The have a wood preservative that is approved by all government agencies and then some.

However, If you want to save dollars and no time you can split your White Oak (heart only) build an large fire with the limbs sand char the posts to the p[oint of almost on fire.

I have posts on this tree farm that were installed after such treatmene that are sitll solid and were planted 75 years ago.

pigman · « **Reply #18 on:** April 28, 2005, 10:02:36 pm »

Quote from: Cedarman on April 28, 2005, 07:44:34 pm

What is that much copper sulfate used for?

When I was in the pig business, I bought 50 lbs at a time to put in my farm pond to control algae. The algea would stop up the filters in the water system.

Jason_WI · « **Reply #19 on:** April 28, 2005, 10:10:41 pm »

We use copper sulfate on cows with hoof rot. Dig down to the abcess with a hoof knive then pack with copper sulfate. It is a fungicide.

Jason

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Author Topic: your ideas on fence post treatment (Read 3143 times)

Kirk_Allen