Quarter Sawing LARGE logs?

[DR_Buck]

What is the best way to quarter saw 36" logs on the LT40?   I have a customer with 2 36" 8 ft red oaks that he wants all quarter sawn.  With my limited experience I have done a number of 36" logs by flat sawing random widths off around the edges as I bring the log down to a cant size that will fit in the saw 28" throat.      But this guy wants all QS and without halving the log first  with a chain saw I can't figure out how to minimize the amount of flat sawn lumber.   

Any ideas?

[ARKANSAWYER]

   With out spliting the log or making some flat sawn you will not be able to do it.  (this is where the swingers jump in and start their stuff)    I would split the log and most of what you will loose besides time is low grade stuff in the middle any way. 

[Randy]

Dr Buck-----------What I would do is load the log----Always bring the small end pith/heart up to be level with the big end on EACH cut.  I would drop down just enough to make the big end the same size as the small end turning the log only a few inches on each turn---not even 1/8th of a turn each time---you will basically be de-barking/making the log the same size on both ends-----------when you finish that drop the saw down all you can clear shooting for around 5" in the middle slab(1)----take it off--flip the log 180 degree's---flat side down on the mill-----------drop down again trying to get a 5" slab again(2)---set it to the side---hopefully you will be less than 24" from flat side to flat side--------turn the log 1/4 turn--------------drop down to around 5" above the CENTER---making sure it will clear--saw it(3)--Get some help now and set it off-------flip the log 180 degree's---drop down again to around 5" above center--if it will clear saw it(4) take it off----now you should have a piece left app 10" thick, close to 24 wide-------stand it up and saw it in half------right through the center of heart---------now take the top piece turn it 180 degree's set it right beside the matching piece on the mill-----------------you probably know how to finish it from here---------you will be able to get several quartersawed narrow boards out of slab 1 and 2 alot out of 3 and 4. This is how I would do it---------------Lets see how many more variations you get. Randy

[Daren]

Arky
Tell me about the hydraulic jack in your pic. This could be another learning experience for me, I have a 44" red oak in the yard I have to 1/4.

[maple flats]

Just put that log in your pickup and come visit me in Oneida, NY. I will saw it on a Peterson and you can take credit. I'm very reasonable for FF members. And by the way, bring a way to unload it from your truck, Ha!! On a more serious note, Randy's method sounds like it would work for your 28" throat

[Captain]

I'm not gonna say anything 

[ARKANSAWYER]

  Go ahead Cap and throw it on in there.


  The Jack is to split the log with.  You cut in with your chain saw from end to end as deep as you can then in the butt cut out a hole big enough to insert a small 20 ton jack and start pumping.   It will crack it open for you.  It is how I split the log in Memphis and it was 67 inches and forked on the little end.   I split it into 4 chuncks.  If you have a fork in a tree leave a foot or two above the fork to insert the jack to help you split.  UL and I do it all the time.   Also a Highlift jack comes in handy in deals like that.

[Daren]

I was hoping you came up with some neat homemade "mini jaws of life" that fits just in the width of a saw cut. Like welding the jack to a plate on the bottom, then another plate to the piston. The piston plate is bent down in a way that it lays flat on the bottom plate when the jack is down. You shove the stacked plates into the cut and raise the jack spreading them apart. I guess I will have to throw one together myself and see if it works.

[Jeff]

I would think you would need some very serious material to have something that would hold up. I can picture what you are talking about, but I can also at the same time picture the steel "jaws" either bend straight, or break off.

[UrbanLogger]

DR_Buck,

This is the way I do it on my LT30 . . .

http://www.scottbanbury.com/quartersawing.html

[Daren]

Jeff
 You are right, but I think I can do it. Instead of bending the top jaw I was thinking about cutting and welding the pieces (bringing the drop piece in from the end of the top/bottom pieces a bit as to get weld on each side) Without going out to my welding shop and looking at the box, 7018 welding rod has a tensile strenght of 10s of thousands of pounds. I have some tool steel plate that should not bend as easy, 3/8 thick". It is more than a sawcut wide with 2 stacked, but better than a hole big enough for a jack. In my former life as a pipefitter/welder, we used to move 30 ton chillers and monster pumps with a little "porta power" hydraulic set you could stick behind the truck seat. They had similar spreaders, and different piston.. all worked by one jack body with quick connect hoses. I have though about just buying one, but they are not cheap. I guess we will see how cheap it is when my home made rig flies out of the log, bounces off my head and through the truck window.

[Kirk_Allen]

Every year at the Fire Department Instructor Conference for the last 15 years there has been a Japanese company display there electric rescue tools.  They have a set of Jaws that I KNOW would work for this and it can be run off of a 18 volt batteried cordless drill. 

I have seen these little tools seperate doors from A posts on cars as well as cut both the A and B posts with no problem and no external hydraulic pumps.

I am going to have to do some digging to get the name but it may be just the ticket! 

[Part_Timer]

urbanlogger

nice website and pictures.  I'm going to try it your way next time.  looks easier than how i do it.  thanks

[UrbanLogger]

Thanks Part_Timer! 

On a typical nice 10' 36" Oak I usually expect to get 500-600 bdft of QS/Rift using this method and that's generously wasting the pith and sap. 

Even if the quartering of the log with the chainsaw takes as long as an hour (10 minutes per cut/4 cuts is average), each quarter only takes 15-30 minutes to turn into 4 or 5/4. We usually do 200-300 bdft/hour QS with this method.

      

[UNCLEBUCK]

So Dr.B  did you quarter saw these logs up ?  I have not had to quarter saw at all but I always get a few qs boards anyway from each log. Never tried the whole log ?

[DR_Buck]

Well I finished the job today.  It was a good day considering I hit the top of the log stop, changed the blade then promptly found 3 16 penny hidden nails halfway in a 24" black walnut log.  Still managed to get 1900 bf cut.   Didn't have to quarter saw the big red oaks.  Customer wanted them flat saw'n.   He had 4 white oaks about 24" diameter that I quarter sawed.  I used the method on Urban Loggers web site.   

BTW Scott, thats a great site you have and a real good explanation on how to do large logs.  I think this week I'm going to order a beam machine and a couple ripping chains for my Husky.

[UNCLEBUCK]

Well DR. B sounds like you did good then . I must learn that qs stuff . When you get a customer that just wants all flat sawn dont you get a few quarter sawn boards in the middle of the log like me ? I better study Scotts large log explanation .