The Bandmill That I Built Continued

[Swede]

Nice to see all this!  

I think You have some vibrations in Your sawmill.  The weight is no problem but You have to  get the whole thing in perfekt balance in the register of r/min it runs. Compare to a wheel on Your car.
Take the wheel off, (5 skrews),  Is the material in the wheel center (plate) realy for welding? If not, make another in 1/2" (0r more) sheet metal. The 5 holes has to be exakt placed and sized. The hole in the middle too!
Place the shaft in a lathe with both ends in center. Press the plate on the shaft and fasten the center by small weldings, (Earth to the shaft, not to the lath´s chassie!) Check the angle by turning and a steel placed close to the plate´s side near the periphery. Make a good welding both sides of the plate. Work them up in the lath.
If You can use the original plate, check that You´ve got the shaft in the center (as above), exact right angular and get good balance.
Check the balance in the wheel and I think You´ll never again get this shaft broken.
You´ll even get less vibrations and a better cut. Good luck!

Swede.

[rbarshaw]

 is there a way to lose the brake drum and reduce the weight?  cecil

The drum is needed to bolt the shaft (welded to the drum) to the tire. My picture is a little out of focus, but the metal looks wrung/twisted rather than cracked, this happened shortly after I jammed the blade due to missalignment from a roller problem and the whole thing came to a rapid halt. I didn't relate that to the break earlier, so I agree with you about the weight.

[rbarshaw]

Nice to see all this!  

I think You have some vibrations in Your sawmill.  The weight is no problem but You have to  get the whole thing in perfekt balance in the register of r/min it runs.

Swede.

My picture is a little out of focus, but the metal looks wrung/twisted rather than cracked, this happened shortly after I jammed the blade due to missalignment from a roller problem and the whole thing came to a rapid halt. I didn't relate that to the break earlier, I agree that vibration can't be allowed, but there were no noticable vibrations. I had balanced the tire and made up a temporary lathe on the mill and cut the tire to perfect round.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  What kind of tool did you use to cut the tire???

[rbarshaw]

 What kind of tool did you use to cut the tire???

I just ground the end of a flat file like a wood lathe gouge, had to resharpen it often tho.

[D._Frederick]

Fla._,

I use a right angle grinder with course sand paper to shape the tires on my 20 shop bandsaw. All you need to do is spin the wheel and hold the grinder lightly against the tire and the rubber will fly.

[Fla._Deadheader]

   "D" .  You talk about "vibration" on a tire type sawmill, and NOW ya want me to freehand grindin my tires  

[D._Frederick]

Fla._
Hey, I was talking about forming a crown on the tire . You are correct about truing the tire to be round. On my shop saw the tire is about 1/4 inch thick, so I never worry about getting it a 100% round. I suppose that the right angle grinder could true a tire if you had something rest it against instead of free handing it.

[Fla._Deadheader]

I left the center "tread rib" and used a utility knife to cut the others down some. That way, the blade rides the center rib, just like it would a "V" belt???

[Duane_Moore]

 :PD._Frederick. been thinking of building a bandsaw using tires. any HELP from you guys would Kindly be appreciated. speeds, motor size. drive types, ect.      want to build about a 30" saw. or at least 24" need any info please.  Duh---Duane

[Fla._Deadheader]

Duane, we built a Woodmizer type. All the other home made mills are 4 post types.

  Find members or search Archives for home made mills. There are enough pics with details on here to go into business building sawmills.

  Maybe Tom can help some, with links. I have never been good at searches

 It would be cheaper to buy a Swinger or a lower priced mill, if you don't require wide boards. We DO require wide boards, so, built a 37" cutting width machine.

 Keeping Band blades tracking correctly can be tricky. A home built adds a whole new dimension. If we did not need wide boards, we would have bought a Swinger, still might. For $6000.00 or so, you can get a simple Band mill. For $10,000.00 you can get an 8" Swinger. After 6 months or so, you MIGHT get a home made mill that MIGHT work well.

 I'm NOT knocking building a mill, just be SURE what you NEED and want.

 Going sawing at 6 AM

[Duane_Moore]

  well, way to go Duh, guess I did it wrong. I just want to build a Bandsaw for my shop, not a bandsaw mill. am going to buy a mill soon. just can not find a big bandsaw for the shop. the ones I find are pricey$$$$, lookin for a big one. 20 to 30". thought of building one out of tires, and elec motor.  not portable, just for the shop.  Duh---Duane

[Fla._Deadheader]

Duane, that shouldn't take more'n a few hours.

[smwwoody]

deadheader

you forget
not all home built mills are of 4 post design

mine is of the no post design.  it is a vertical band mill

its design would work real well for a shop saw.  My son just got a digital camera I will se if I can get some pic'c up realo soon.

Woody

[Stump Jumper]

Woody i cant wait to see pics of your saw  

[D._Frederick]

Woody,
Please tell us more about your vertical band mill. Since Duane wants to build a shop saw, this may be a good starting point. It will give us some ideas to work on.

[smwwoody]

It has a 10' carriage and 36' of track that will let me saw 16' long logs.  it opens to 28"  this will let me saw a 30"+ diameter log.  but 20"and under are much easyer.  it uses 24"rubber tires for band wheels.  the top or idle wheel is mounted to a trailer hub and spindle from a trailer supply house.  it is welded to my tracking/tension hindge.  The bottem or driven wheel is mounted to a hub with a 1 7/16" keyed hole in it.  the shaft that goes through the hub rides in 2 pillow block bearings and has a 2 B grove sheave on the other end of it.  it is driven by a 90 HP Case diesel.  the carriage started out as a friction drive but now has a hyd motor running it.  the guides are from Cook's  it runs a 14' 10" long 1.5" wide band.  it is a basic coppy of a circle mill running a band head instead of a husk with a circle saw on it.

Woody

[Duane_Moore]

  well guys I think I will start a new tread for this one, will call it.. cobbled up band saw.  OK? then we won't tie up this one,    Duh---Duane

[Buzz-sawyer]

Hey Woody sound like my current project ...just bout like yours except it is behind my 56'' circular mill...the same carriage and set works.....just run into the bandmill....I have 60 feet of track and can cut 20' logs (if I hafta)
my mill
http://www.forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=sawmill;action=display;num=1057247948;start=

[rbarshaw]

Here is a couple of pics of how I cut my tires to perfect round.

I used a T shaped piece of angle iron with a C clamp to hold it in place next to the tire. I sharpened the end of a file at about 30 deg. and used it to "shave" the tire, had to sharpen it alot with an angle grinder. The tire on the idle side was spun by a drill with a lawn mower wheel fastened to it, I bolted the drill to the fender. You can see all the tire shavings on the ground.

Another perspective.