Looking at picking up a couple of saws in hte near future

[Doc]

My thinking may be off, and I am hoping someone here in the business can set me right.

I am about to purchase a fair size section of timbered acreage, and am planning on logging it out myself (very slowly, a few trees at a time), and selling off the dried lumber. I already have plans of building my mill so that much is taken care of, and a few solar kilns as well. I have a tractor, and now need to look at saws.

I am thinking I should have a good sized saw for felling, and a smaller saw for limbing, and topping. The smaller one will also be used for pruning, and climbing so size makes a bit of a difference.

Any suggestions?

Doc

[OneWithWood]

Doc,

What size and types of trees are you looking at?  What is your experience level with a chainsaw?
This info will help the knowledgeable folk here when they offer their advice.

[Doc]

I am looking at oak, poplar, syp, and the occassional cherry and walnut. I haev not walked the whole place so I do not have an idea of everything that is there. I do know that these are fairly common withthe cherry and walnut being few and far between down here in the south.

My experience with a chainsaw is minimal at best, but I am planning on taking off the time to hit one of the game of logging courses in one of the closer to me states. Not sure how well to define my experience with one, but consider me a greenhorn and suggest from there.

I have read some of your info in the forestry and logging section of selective thinning, and found the info very enlightening, and exactly what I had planned, but on a much smaller scale (my scale....not a loggers, or mills). Some of the harvested trees are to be used in a timber frame barn and house on the property.

Doc

[lucky_cutter]

We still need an idea of the diameter, or width, of the trees in question. There is no point in getting too little saw or too much saw either. Another consideration would be the local shops in your area. What brands do they sell and service.
You should be commended on taking a class. Anyone can pick up a saw and use it, but it takes some training to be able to use the saw safely and efficiently. There is a steep learning curve for the safety aspect. Safety gear would also be a good idea. Some people never make a mistake with a saw. For the rest of us...Safety gear gives us a second chance for sight, life and limb, or at least a horrible scar we can tell scary stories about.

Whatever you decide, I recommend you get two saws of the same make. Every manufacturer does things a bit differently and it would be easiest at this point that you only have to learn one routine as you will have much to learn already. Sometimes the parts between the saws may be compatable if they are the same make.

[Doc]

Like I said, I have no idea what is in this stand, but I am going to give a wag and say 12 to 30+ inches in diameter.

I am planning on chaps and headgear. Like I have said in other parts of the forums, I am kinda fond of my head. it has been attached to my shoulders for 36 years,a nd I intend to keep it squarely placed there if I can. I am partial to having arms and legs as well, and I thought for the price of a pair of chaps the investment is smaller than the medical expenses or the loss of one of them. The classes are a bargain at almost any price, and if I read right they are about 500 for a week long class (this info may be wrong, and I am planning on calling shortly as time permits to go to one to verify).

I thought two saws sounded like a good idea too. I realize that I don't want to be weilding a big mutha around to limb out a tree when a smaller lighter saw will do the job while not wearing me out, but a small saw may not be big enough to handle a bigger tree or buck off a section. So I guess I was not too far off with the thought of two saws.

I have access to almost anything made here, so brand wise nothing is out of the question. I have used a mid sized stihl, and found it to be nice, but a bit intimidating considering my skill level.

The class was intended to show me the right way to do things, and to identify things that may end up removing my noggin from my neck (barbers chairs, and the like). I just have a need to know what I am doing, and I apply that to everything. Just something my grandfather has always preached at me. Read alot, learn from someone who knows how, and remember what you learned.

Doc

[Arthur]

I use two.

A 088 Magnum for the big stuff and an 026 for everything else.

I find that the 026 does just about everything though.  Took time but I managed a 800mm with the blade just reaching the middle.

arthur

[OLD_ JD]

Doc i will said,first if ure planing to use that saw all day long,dont take it to big,or make sure u have no back problem,whit a medium saw and 18" blade u can take almost any size of trees if u know how
second ,if ure limping and ure tall(like me)i like to use 24"blade on size range of 55-65 cc saw,it will keep ure back strait(help back prob..)

for me who i log full time...the size is less important then the weight,i prefere taking 2 more minute to do my cutting,then 2 day's off for back prob..
just my opinion            JD

[OneWithWood]

OK, Doc.  With the info you have ginec us I would recommend two Stihls.  The MS 280 and the MS 460.  I use 4 saws, all Stihls.  I have an 019T for brush cutting, wildlife habitats and such - it is a one hand saw, an 038 AV Farm Boss that is just a great all around saw and was my mainstay for many years, an MS440 that I bought to replace the 038 as it is lighter and has more rpms, thorgh the 038 has more grunt, and an MS460 that I use for felling.  My harvest trees run about 20-28 bdh.  I use 20" bars on the 038 and MS440 and a 25" bar on the MS460 running semi skip chisel chain.

[lucky_cutter]

Doc,
If you go the stihl route, I'd say a 440,390,360.( all are listed as being 12.5-13.5 pounds) A 460 would get the job done faster than the rest, but it might be a bit too much for a first saw. (especially if you were/are intimidated by a mid range saw.)  If you do not spend a lot of time climbing, a 250 or 260 would be great limbing saws. (10.1-10.4 pounds) There are smaller and lighter saws if you do climb a lot.

For the huskys, 372,365,357 for cutting (12-13.5 pounds listed).  340,345,346 for limbing (all are listed around 10.1 pounds). I have used an older version similar to a 372 for both cutting and limbing. I'd never want to be in a tree with one though.

Both husky and stihl make arborist saws if you end up doing a lot of climbing.

Dolmar also makes great saws. I know little about them so i will let some one else who is "in the know" recommend a pair.

There are other good makes as well, but I think Husky Stihl and Dolmar will be your safest bets as far as productivity and reliability are concerned

[rebocardo]

How are you planning on making your lumber, with the saws?

[Doc]

Thanks for the recommends fellas.

I am not planning on using these saws for the lumber mill rebo. I am building a band mill for that.

Considering I am only planning on felling enough trees at a time to fill a 2K bd ft solar kiln I am not worried aboutthe extra weight of the bigger saws. I am more worried about the sucker getting away from me or doing something like kicking back, and taking off for the moon. I am going to look at all of these mentioned here, and most likely stay in the mid range for the big one since I don't fell for a living, and a smaller saw for limbing and such.

I do appreciate the info guys. Stay safe!

Doc

[outdoortype]

"....For the huskys, 372,365,357 for cutting (12-13.5 pounds listed)." 

Lucky Cutter,
   Why would you reccommend the 357 over the 359?  Just curious.

[Hoop]

I'd be real concerned about your level of expertise with a chain saw.  Especially when it comes to falling 12-30" diameter oak trees.  And certainly, black walnut trees are NOT something a novice should even attempt to fail.  These trees split very easy.  And if a tree "barber chairs" the consequences can be deadly.


A Husqvarna 372 or Stihl 046, in the hands of an ADEPT operator, are more than enough saw to handle the trees you describe. 

[lucky_cutter]

 Outdoorstype
I'd recommend the 359 as well. It just fell through the cracks so to speak. (Too many numbers and not enough fingers for typing)

[twostroke_blood]

Its all about the dealer. And your favorite color

[logger]

I would run a Stihl Ms440 or a stihl ms460 for the big stuff, I would use a Stihl Ms280 for the little stuff like limbs. That's if you are going the stihl route.  They are all good saws I have them all.  Excellent power!

[jokers]

I would run a Stihl Ms440 or a stihl ms460 for the big stuff, I would use a Stihl Ms280 for the little stuff like limbs. That's if you are going the stihl route.  They are all good saws I have them all.  Excellent power!

I`ve got to question your recommendation of the 280. The 260 is a lighter, better built saw and it will cut with the 280 regardless of specs. I`ve got five 026/260s and only one 280. I don`t expect to buy another 280.

Russ

[fishhuntcutwood]

Doc- you're right to think about the saw being a handful, but don't confuse lower power with more controlability.  You can experience kickback and cut your arm off with a Wild Thing you buy at Wal Mart.   A bigger saw is more of a handful because it weighs more, and probably has a longer bar on it than a smaller saw would.   I've never hurt myself with a saw, but any of the times I've had a "Whao, that was kinda scary" situation was because of my fatigue operating the saw, and the dimensions of the saw getting in the way-read, long bar getting in the way.  I think a Stihl 440 would do you fine, and if you're comfortable with the extra weight, the 460 would work too.  For a smaller saw, the 260 is hard to beat, but try and see if you can find one from last year or earlier.

Take care all,
Jeff

[Doc]

Thanks again for the recommends guys.

In respect to my skill level, I am planning on traveling out to a "Game of Logging" course somewhere reasonably close by. I figure the few hundred bucks and the few days away from work are worth it to keep my head on my shoulders. If it helps me identify somethign that could be exceptionally dangerous if not dealt with a certain way then it was worth every cent and I owe them money.

I am in reasonably good shape for 36, but I don't care to lug around a bunch of weight all day, nor do I care for the "more is better" approach to anything. if it can be done with a smaller saw, and take a few more minutes, I will opt for a little less weight, a little less bar, a little less power, and a few more minutes. I have lots of time to get things done when I get to them.....I don't have time to fight with somethign that is bigger than I am, or weighs so much that it will wear me out in the first few hours of trying to get somethign done.

You folks are great! I knew I would get a fair vriety of answers here, and all good. Now I have a nice selection to choose from, and can go look at them at the dealers here. I am all about dealer support, and local business.....woudl much rather deal with a small shop and have the folks know me by name as opposed to dealing with one of the big boys who care about nothing but the sales at the end of the day.

Doc

[OneWithWood]

Doc,

At 51 I still wish I was in better shape!  One thing that helped me alot in carting the saw(s) around, especially on the steep terrain I have, was learning how to properly carry a saw through the woods. 
Hook your thumb around the handle and hoist the saw up on your shoulder with the bar pointing aft.  It will feel uncomfortable at first but you will soon find the right spot on your shoulder for the saw to rest.  You can better maintain your balance and you won't wear out your arm lugging the saw around.  Tired arms equate to loss of control.

[fishhuntcutwood]

I agree, over the shoulder is the way to go.  I carry mine bar forward, with a shoulder pad on my suspenders.

Take care all,
Jeff