Looking for plans for band mills without auto tires

[jrokusek]

Well shoot.  Now I gotta find different axles.     I think there's enough meat on the hubs to be opened up for a larger axle.  Need to get some larger pillow blocks too.  I was trying to aviod visiting a machine shop if at all possible.  I work for a technical college so maybe I can talk nice to our Machine Tool Department and see if they'll take pity on me.    Oh yeah....one other thing.  I worked for an aluminum plant at one time and we used to put most of the extrusion dies through a nitride process.  I believe this process only hardened the surface - it wouldn't contribute to the overall strength.  It would probably do wonders for something that needed a tough surface - like a crankshaft or bearings.

If anyone has a good source for a 1 1/4" shaft.....looks like I'm in the market to buy.

Jim

[Doc]

Look at the trailer section of northern tool Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company, and look at the hub/spindle assemblies. You can get these as 4 or 5 bolt hobs, and they will more than take the stress. the tapered bearings are very serviceable, and the price is not so bad. Build that go kart and sell it, and use the money to get your hubs. You can even make a little extra for something else you can use for the mill.

Aluminum does not harden like steel. At best the hardest aluminum is equal to slightly harder than hardened mild steel.

You are correct though, nitriding is a surface hardening. Good for bearing surfaces, but the differential makers claim it better for the axle as a whole. I have yet to figure that one out, but they have equipment that I don't have.....

Now I am looking for pulleys.....

Doc

[Buzz-sawyer]

Someonr has posted , with pics on this topic, I.E small shaft, temper, concensus was to use auto axle and turn down if necissary

[Doc]

One of you guys was talking about using the spindles off a front wheel drive car, and I see that as a very good way to go about this. It certainly won't come apart on you under load.

I am one to over engineer stuff though, but I don't like down time. I don't much care for the idea of massive disintegration happening either. The thought of being at ground zero when the head comes apart does not appeal to me greatly.

Doc

[jrokusek]

The 1" axle I bought says the following:
Tinsel strength: 73000 PSI
Yield: 66000 PSI

This, however, might just as well be written in a different language since I don't know what it means.

Jim

[Doc]

trust me....you wnat soemthing bigger. Do not put your neck out for something that can easily be replaced for a few more bucks and will give you piece of mind. Overbuild and worry less.

Do you or a neighbor have an old front wheel drive car sitting around with good rear spindles? This woudl be a good place to get the pices you need virtually free (well except for the goop to clean your hands up with, and a little time to take them off).

Those numbers equate out to a 1" grade 8 bolt. Now how many grade 8 bolts have you broken off with a torque wrench in your day. I have broken a few off....not 1" mind you, but fairly large ones. It will twist and shear off. Those numbers change every time you run the machine. You heat the steel while running it, and the time differential of the cooling process (slower or faster) will change the temper and hardness until they get brittle and break off.

Look at the Cooks parts and see what they are running behing those massive wheels and you will get an idea of why we are telling you that you want something bigger. I assure you we aren't trying to do anything but keep your head squarely located on your shoulders.

Doc

[jrokusek]

I'm notorious for twisting off bolts.  I did some quick internet research and found that the Ford 9" axles or the Dana 60 axles may fit the bill.  Depending on the year, spline count, etc.  they are about 1.33" diameter and plentiful.  I'll save the go-kart axle for a go-kart.  Thanks guys!

jim

[Doc]

And those are easily modified to work the way you are planning to use them.

Doc

[jrokusek]

Had a wild hair and stopped by a place I pass on my commute to work.  Company is called "Driveline Services."   They always actually STOCK a bunch of 1.25" shaft with a keyway that is designed for stuff like this.  Cost is about $11 per foot. 

Jim

[Doc]

Why do you need keyed shaft?

If you go about it with the trailer hubs you have tapered bearings inside and out, and no need for keys to lose when you have to repack the bearings. Keyed shaft and the like to make that work just complicates things more than necessary.

Doc

[Dan_Shade]

how do you drive the drive wheel without a key on a tire bandsaw?

[jrokusek]

I was originally thinking of using something like this:


With trailer hubs I understand how the idler side works.  How the heck do you drive the driven side?  All I can see in my mind is 2 idler sides.  I'm not sure how to attach a pulley to that contraption.  Somehow a shaft must get attached to the spindle?  You wouldn't want to weld it, would you?  Anyone have a picture?

Now that you guys shot my drive design full of holes I'm at a loss of what to do.  Don't get me wrong.....I appreciate the help.  I prefer to keep all my limbs attached so stopping me now isn't a bad thing.    Someone help me before I have a panic attack and break out the torch!

Jim

Why do you need keyed shaft?

If you go about it with the trailer hubs you have tapered bearings inside and out, and no need for keys to lose when you have to repack the bearings. Keyed shaft and the like to make that work just complicates things more than necessary.

Doc

[Doc]

Offset pulley withthe bolt pattern of the hub. You can make up the offset by removing that much stock from the weld on tail of the spindle (a few thou).

Then again, your idea of a keyed shaft may work out well for the drive side. No offset pulley. I will have to look at what I drew out on paper and think again. I have plenty of large pulleys running around from various things. Hmmmm.......now you have me thinking again. I am wondering which one of this has been making this harder than it really is now....

Doc

[Fla._Deadheader]

How about this scenario   A rear axle, out of a car, that has the "donut" spare. It has the HUB on the axle. It has the SEAT for the bearing. It can be cut off and dressed for the other bearing. Cut a key slot for the pulley and mount it

  Make any sense ??

  Donuts are nearly free in junk yards. Carry a spare. The outside dia. is 25" on a full size car.   

[Doc]

That advice came from a man who knows.

Looking at the pics of Homey you went through the gamut of figurin stuff out.

Off to the wrecking yard....

Doc

[Danny_S]

   ....... I like the title of this post and now the final post by the author....

That advice came from a man who knows.

Looking at the pics of Homey you went through the gamut of figurin stuff out.

Off to the wrecking yard....

Doc

[hiya]

I used a rear wheel drive axel for the drive side and a rear spindle from a front drive car for the idler side for mine. I turned the axel down to fit the pillow blocks I had(1 1/4 " ) .Richard

[jrokusek]

Here is a good reference if anyone is looking for axle sizes:  http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1b.html   Scroll about 2/3 of the way down the page to the chart labeled STRENGTH COMPARISON OF COMMON O.E. AUTOMOTIVE & RACING SPLINES.    Gives lots of info on axle shaft sizes.

On another note I'm going with the 1.25" shaft.  I have something kinda neat planned.  When I get it back in a week or two I'll post pictures.  I'm going to have to visit a machine shop after all.......

Jim

[samdland]

I sent a link to some plans I made. Check your messages

[Doc]

I got them.....very nicely laid out, and complete. I appreciate the link....

Doc