Author Topic: Looking for plans for band mills without auto tires (Read 4649 times)

Doc · « **on:** March 10, 2005, 11:52:56 am »

I have hit a couple of members here up for info about mills they built, and have gotten a response from one so far.

I am looking for plans for a band mill. I have been searching through the net and everything I can find so far uses auto tires and wheels for the blade wheels. I know there has to be a better way than this. I am just not up for this design. I have a cooks catalog, and have looked at most of the manual mills on the market, and just don't see where the price tag comes in for the materials for the beast.

Anybody got plans or has built their own mill using band mill wheels? I have a fair idea of what I am wanting to do, but want to make sure things look right on paper before I make the first part.

Doc

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2005, 11:59:33 am »

Doc
Tim Cook is the man to talk to about steel band wheels,and they machine crown the ones they sell. The only difference I have seen between auto tire mills and steel wheel mills........... is the wheels.
Seveveral suppliers will sell you the whole basic head assembly, or you can buy the wheels.
Or you could go the pulley route with the bands.

Doc · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2005, 12:24:16 pm »

I am looking at buying the wheels, and carriers from Cooks if I go this route. They are close, and have a good rep from what I have been reading here, and other places. considering they are only a few hours away from me I can't go wrong. I am planning on using their guides, and wheels. Like I read somewhere, Fla_DH posted....if it works why not use it, or something to that effect.

I am just looking for someone elses design that worked out well, so I don't have to start trying to design this thing too. I could do it, but would rather not have to take the time if I can get away with it.

Doc

jrokusek · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2005, 01:28:22 pm »

Go to http://www.diybandmill.com and click on photos on the left side of the page. Check out the mill by gomango called "The Badger Sawmill" (gomango is also a member of this forum). I believe he used sheaves and a belt to fit inside the groove of the sheave. Just something else to chew on for ideas.

I'm using trailer tires for mine. Just a cost issue with me. If I could convince my wife that I really NEED this mill I'd probably use something else too.

jim

jrokusek · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2005, 01:30:25 pm »

My error. I'm thinking of the wrong forum. He did use actual bandwheels.
Jim

Doc · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2005, 01:44:12 pm »

I have been to the DIY site. Was hoping for more than just a forum I guess. Still impressive to see what some of you guys have done with stuff from the scrap pile.

I built half my machine shop from scrap stuff, and am still working on the rest of it. I can see that power hacksaw project getting built in short order for something like this. I don't think my elbows would hold up to all that stress....hahahaha!

Doc

Rod · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2005, 05:12:22 pm »

I'd say the auto tires are better cause they keep the blade cool and thats why you don't need to use water.The blade doesn't slip,they don't ware out ,they don't break blades,and their easy to tension.I don't understand why anyone would use anything else.

Doc · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2005, 05:37:02 pm »

Well Rod, lookiing at yours and Buzz comments on the subject, and rethinking the budget a bit, the auto tires are starting to sound pretty good. Tractor Supply (I love that place for fabbin stuff) has the trailer tires and wheels like one of the mill makers uses pretty cheap. I suppose combined with some good guides and track I could put together a pretty mean machine.

Doc

Bibbyman · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2005, 05:58:50 pm »

Please don’t scrimp on the shielding of the blade. I’ve seen pictures of some of home built (and a few cheep commercial made) mills that are down right dangerous.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2005, 06:18:04 pm »

Yup, 12" boat trailer wheels and tires are narrow, right dia. for longer blade life, cheaper, and get 'em balanced. Get the second hub and machine an insert for it. That will make the drive wheel and hub. Ours is internal. It worked, with some luck.

Gotta agree with Bibby 100%. Them blades will eat yer lunch if they come outta that cover.

Doc · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2005, 06:57:20 pm »

Armour around that blade band is one place I am not scrimping. I plan on overbuilding gaurds. I don't want anything coming out of that thing but sawdust,and noise.

Other plans are working.

Doc

Rod · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2005, 07:29:54 am »

For the blade guides you could use 2 bearning at the top and 2 on the bottom and one on the back of the blade.Just make sure the barnings are for 5000 RPM's or better.There about $3 each.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #12 on:** March 11, 2005, 07:50:15 am »

Not knocking the exposed bearing type guides, but, I built our first set, using exposed bearings. The lube system will slowly wash the grease out of the bearings. I even used a double seal type, that didn't last much longer.

I bought a used set of Cooks from a member, and only have replaced bearings in one, so far. Too much grease is bad. Too much lube, (Pine) will shorten your bearings life. No problem with changing them, though.

Some mills use "tool Steel" as solid pads. I don't really care for that method. They could heat the blade when the blade rises or falls. The roller guides have a little sound that lets you know that something is not right.

Dan_Shade · « **Reply #13 on:** March 11, 2005, 09:00:22 am »

how do you set them up where the bearings aren't exposed?

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #14 on:** March 11, 2005, 11:07:56 am »

Go to Cook's Homepage and view them. They are enclosed in a guide wheel with a flange on the back, so the blade isn't pushed off the wheel.

D._Frederick · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2005, 11:57:16 am »

Rod,

The inflatable tires for band wheels have a number of problems that can and do cause problems. 1). If they are not correctly balanced, you are going to have a lot of vibrations. 2) The tires may not be a 100% round which will cause the blade to whip. 3) With the pressure of the band on the tire, there may not be enough crown on the tire to allow the band to track correctly. 4) When a blade breaks, it can cut the tire up enough to require replacement.

The tire design mills reduce the sale value of the bandmill. (Only one commercial made mill use infaltable tire). Probably what you save on tires is what you will loose when you go to sell it

Doc · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2005, 05:43:14 pm »

D....tire balance may be relevant to some degree, but balancing is not rocket science. I raced motorcycles for years (road, not MX) that I balanced on the bike doing nothing but spinning the wheel on the axle, and placing weights opposite the bottom till it stopped at a different point every time (static balance...may not be the best explanation). I ran well over 100mph and never had a problem with vibs, and at that speed I can assure you that if it were there I woudl feel it.

Tire round or out of round in this day and age is fairly small right out of the mold. Tolerances have come in closer than you would think, and with a little give I would not think that a slight roundness issue would be so bad.

Knowing a fair amount about mettalurgy, and the effects of heat on spring steel (band mill blades) taking the heat out of the blade gently is one of the most life giving things you can do for spring steel. if you build up too much heat in the blade you ruin the spring temper, and the metal becomes brittle....this equates to breakage.

I did not liek the idea of using tires for wheels just because I generally do not build anything that way. In my mind it just seemed cheap, but I am starting to come around to the other way of thinking. I am looking at alot more info than what a few of these guys are posting here. You are right though, there is only one vendor that is using them in his mills, and he currently has the best pricepoint of any vendor. According to a couple of articles he references in his brochures his mill was rated very well by the folks doing some testing (I can't recall the tester at this time, but will look it up). It wasn't because it was the fastest, or the biggest, but because the cost of the machien coupled withthe production and the cost of repair parts make it very likeable.

Just to defend both sides of the argument......

Doc

sawdust · « **Reply #17 on:** March 11, 2005, 06:49:12 pm »

Could a person use the fake spare tires that come in little cars? They have a very tall crown and use 80 psi. A friend was collecting parts to try build a mill this way.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #18 on:** March 11, 2005, 07:04:44 pm »

They will work, but, have a big dia. So, ya gotta match 'em up.

Getting hubs for them is the tricky part. Boat trailer parts are cheap and plentiful.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #19 on:** March 11, 2005, 07:06:40 pm »

Doc
Also if the tires are out of TRUE a forum member has a cure for that also, rbshaw, made a siple jig to set a chisel or some kinda cutter to true tires on the mill as it spins, as one would on a lathe.I like the idea of using larger wheels for two reasons, easier on the bands, and better for cutting large diameter logs in half and quarters
I dont like the larger per blade cost it will create.

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Author Topic: Looking for plans for band mills without auto tires (Read 4649 times)