Author Topic: slabbers, beam machines, alaskan mills, etc. (Read 2287 times)

TomFromStLouis · « **on:** February 21, 2005, 02:45:01 am »

Help me organize my thoughts on chainsaw milling. I have run through some older threads here, but lack the top down framework to make sense of all the choices for chainsaw milling.

To date, we have subcontracted our sawing to a portable bandmiller, and it has worked out fairly well. However, bandmills have capacity issues and our urban logs can be a challenge. We have ripped/quartered a few big 'uns freehand with little waste, but the other thing that would help our cause is some kind of slabbing attachment to make table material out of 40" logs. As I dabble in this information, I see all kinds of terms and need to sort out my options.

Is an Alaskan mill just any kind of chainsaw mill generically (thus encompassing all of my choices)? I have seen the Beam Machine site and presume that it is a brand name for a simple guide for the saw. Logosol's Big Mill seems a more elaborate (better?) version of the same idea. How many other chainsaw guides are out there? Is the workload similarly heavy for all of them? (Scott B: is your winch-driven idea unique or are there products on the market that make this kind of sawing easier?) I do not own a Lucas or Peterson, so their slabbing attachments are of no use to me since I presume you need their big setup for the attachment.

Can someone quickly run down, from least to most expensive or least to most effort, what the choices are for breaking down big logs and making wide slabs with a chainsaw? Let's name some names.

tawilson · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2005, 06:32:37 am »

Alaskan mill is a brand name. They make several different sized attachments, I have the smallest. They have a website I've been to. I don't have it bookmarked but a search should locate it for you. I also have the beam machine. I've found it handy to keep both attachments on saws ready to use. Many times it's easier/faster to use the Alaskan to cut the top off the log and then use the beam machine to do the sides.

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2005, 07:21:26 am »

Don't have one, but, I believe the Alaskan would be my first choice. They been around a long time, and I know of several folks that use them.

I believe the Beam Machine is more a freehand type, being only supported on the engine end. The Alaskan has support for the whole bar and chain. I would like to get a real good deal on an Alaskan myself.

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #3 on:** February 21, 2005, 11:25:48 am »

Quote from: Fla._Deadheader on February 21, 2005, 07:21:26 am

I would like to get a real good deal on an Alaskan myself.

Then how in the heck are you dealing with logs the size of those in your avatar??

BTW, swing blades are not on my list. Even though they deal with any size, they do not make slabs/quarter logs like I want.

Hmmm, just visited Hudson's site. A bandmill that handle 50"+ logs? For $10,000? I have equipment to load the log, maybe this is the high end choice for at least breaking down the big 'uns....

Okay, visited Granberg's Alaskan site. Very few facts, but it looks like the vertical bars do not allow much more than an 18" drop; meaning that you could not use it to rip a 45" log in half on the first cut. True?

Summary of big log slabber ideas so far (open to corrections), low end/most work to more $/less work:

1 - free hand chain ripping. Lacks accuracy.

2 - beam machine types where an inexpensive attachment to the saw and a straighedge help guide the cut. Sounds like it would help the accuracy, but still hard work.

3 - guide mechanisms that support both ends of the long bar (like Logosol Big Mill or Granberg's Alaskan). Need to ascertain that it can allow the first cut down 25" or more to half a big one. Included in this group would be the slabbing attachments for swing blade mills, but they could only be economical if you already have the swig blade. Anyone want to suggest any other brands in this category?

4 - Is there anything between the above and a BIG log bandmill like the Hudson 52"? The Hudson appears to lack any log handling hydraulics or other niceties and may be pricey for infrequent use, but might be the easiest to use on this list.

Care to improve the summary?

ronwood · « **Reply #4 on:** February 21, 2005, 01:00:34 pm »

TomFromStLouis,

Have you considered a low end Lucus or Peterson swing mill with a slabbing attachment. I don't think I would try to use a the Hudsun for that wide a cut.

Only my thoughts.
Ron

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #5 on:** February 21, 2005, 01:36:23 pm »

Well, the more I look at the Hudson, I see that it is not exactly what I need since it too has depth limitations.

How would a low end Peterson with slabber differ from a Logosol Big Mill? They both have tracks on both sides right?

IndyIan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 21, 2005, 01:41:58 pm »

Tom,
I have an alaskan, I'm pretty sure the maximum depth is 12.5" Also cutting a 50" log in half would be a two man operation with an alaskan unless you rig up something, bungies or a winch.
If your final product is 2" slabs then maybe an alaskan is a good option. You first cut needs to be guided anyways so you cut max depth, probably knock off a 10" thick slab. Then you run the alaskan guide rails on the smooth cut, so the next cut is pretty near the middle of a 50" log.

If you doing all that you might as well cut all your slabs with the alaskan anyways. If you wanted to do alot of this, a huge saw, modded, would save some aggravation. I'd guess 2k to get a good alaskan set up going. Big saw, big bars, lots of ripping chain, good bench grinder, big alaskan, with the aux oiler.

Ian

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #7 on:** February 21, 2005, 01:45:30 pm »

  We built our mill, and it will saw 37" wide. Sometimes, we have to take a slab and turn, etc. It IS hard work, no matter how you do it. If I were looking to do the sawing, I would definitely get a Swing Blade w/slabber.

  You can get 12-14 table slabs from a 48" log, figuring 2" thick, + ¼" kerf. The rest of the slabs will be not as wide, and make chair bottom, benches, legs, etc. If the slabs bring $200.00 each, that's $2400--$2800 PER LOG, just for the 12-14 Table slabs. Looks to me like, 2 --48" logs will buy the swinger. After that, it's gravy. Then, you can saw all the smaller logs and not have to pay someone to do it for you, ESPECIALLY if the sawing can be done on-site of the logs. THAT would be the least intensive way to do the slabs. Not familiar with the Hudson, but, you already know how difficult it is to manhandle the big logs.

  Just my 2 pennies worth

Paul_H · « **Reply #8 on:** February 21, 2005, 02:52:33 pm »

It would be simple and inexpensive to lengthen the depth guides to suit your needs if you get an Alaskan mill This one will do 13" deep slabs
and will only allow somewhere around 32 " wide but again it wouldn't take much to modify that either.

sigidi · « **Reply #9 on:** February 21, 2005, 03:32:48 pm »

Tom,
how about a dedicated slabber on a swinger frame set up, ok you don't have the swinger but it's a much cheaper option and a heck of a lot easier to saw logs than all the back breaking of alaskan type mills

Ianab · « **Reply #10 on:** February 21, 2005, 04:00:53 pm »

Tom.

Have a look at the Peterson mill with a clip on slabber. Gives you a full swingblade mill that converts to a slabber in 10 mins or so. Advantage is that it's powered by a decent 24 or 27 hp 4 stroke, not a chainsaw. With that you can quartersaw the first 1/3 of a big log, remove the blade and bolt on the slabber. Cut some slabs from the middle of the log, replace the blade and saw up the bottom 1/3 as well.
Much better than mucking about with chainsaws, especially if you are looking at production. I think it would be much cheaper than a bandsaw that could handle the same logs, and you wont need much in the way of log handling equipment. Big logs can be cut where they are sitting. And you can cut up small logs just as easy

Ian

Paul_H · « **Reply #11 on:** February 21, 2005, 04:21:45 pm »

I guess I'm naturally frugal and if it was only for a few logs like Tom mentioned,I think the Alaskan fit's the bill. The logs don't have to be placed to split them and the Alaskan setup is something that can be brought out,used and put away until next time.As far as hard work goes,it never seemed too bad to me because you can only go as fast as the saw will let you and it is resting on the guides so you're not holding up the weight of the saw.

It is slow and monotonous, but handy to have around.

If there were several logs per week to be split and cost isn't an issue then I'd agree that the slabber would be the way to go,especially if you could contract out and split for other mills to offset the purchase.

rebocardo · « **Reply #12 on:** February 21, 2005, 06:21:49 pm »

I had looked at these people before:

http://www.norwoodindustries.com

and I had seriously thought about an Alaskan, but then I went with a Procut mill at the last minute:

http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/

To me, the main advantage was I already owned the engine (my chain saw), it was extremely portable, and the most important thing was I could do it by myself without being on my knees. I was not crazy about setting up the ladder for an Alaskan, it looked too complicated for me.

Just built a trailer wide enough to handle your biggest log. The bigger the log the lower to the ground I would design the trailer, even designing it to sit on the ground. If all you are doing is table slabs, then build it 4 feet wide by ten feet long for the track and a really good frame for the bar. Plus, you can haul the wood away on the trailer.

With my urban lumber and metal, cement, and stone objects I probably would skip a Lucas, though they look tempting if you do not look at the cost.

oldsaw · « **Reply #13 on:** February 21, 2005, 07:05:25 pm »

The Alaskan is a good idea as long as you have a decent chainsaw. You can get a big one (Brian Baily has a 54" or some godforsaken similar size) and as someone else mentioned, you could easily add to the verticals. Keep in mind that your BARE minimum would be a 100cc class saw, and you really should be looking for a 120cc (088/3120), or an 090 (137cc).

That being said, if you can profit from some big slabs, or added quartersawing, you could easily save up for something more elaborate. Worst case scenario, even if you bought everything new, you would be out $2000 with a 120cc saw.

Get creative, but plan to get what you really need eventually. This would be a cheap "step through" since, if you are like me, you can always use a big saw anyway, and the Alaskan would allow you to do some wierd stuff (crotches, big slabs, etc) that you couldn't do otherwise. It takes up little space, and can be put together in minutes as the need requires. After owning one and having access to a bandmill, the Alaskan still pays its way, most recently cutting down logs to fit on the bandmill.

Ianab · « **Reply #14 on:** February 21, 2005, 07:46:01 pm »

I agree with getting an Alaskan and a big saw if you only want to do a few logs, or as an experiment. Cut up a few logs and see how the drying / selling goes. If you dont take it any further, your only real $$$ outlay was a big chainsaw, and if you're dealing with big logs from time to time anyway then it's still going to be usefull, even if you just use it with a beam machine to quarter / buck oversize logs.

I would still recomend the Peterson with slabber if you are going to do any serious amount of sawing. That will let you quatersaw / flatsaw OR slab practically any log.

Cheers

Ian

KiwiCharlie · « **Reply #15 on:** February 21, 2005, 10:30:13 pm »

Hi Tom,
Wells it pretty well been covered here, but I will add my 2c worth. I think the Beam machine would be too small for what youre looking at doing. The Granberg Alaskan is not too much of a $ outlay, is very portable, and if your looking to do table type slabs, would be suited for that. It does only cut to 13", but unless youve got some form of machinery to deal with a slab that thick then theres not much point!

Id blow my foo-foo valve trying to cant-hook that around!

If a market develops for the slabs you get, then a move up to something like Ian and others mentioned with the slabbing attachment would work well also.
Cheers
Charlie.

Furby · « **Reply #16 on:** February 22, 2005, 12:54:12 am »

Harold,
How come you haven't made an Alaskan?
I'm working on one right now, and if I can even get close to making this thing work, I KNOW you could toss it together in a half hour.

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #17 on:** February 22, 2005, 01:42:13 am »

I appreciate all the talk about these things - I learn more with each post.

Let me bring everyone up to date on my situation and maybe we can hone in on the right product. Joe and I have an urban log recycling business that spends 90% of our time and effort hauling logs. The lumber idea is to try and get a better margin on some logs than selling them as logs. For example, QS sycamore is reasonably valuable as lumber and we have sold some with success and it certainly is better than tie or pallet material despite the effort. Grade oak logs we just sell unless a big fat white begs us to be quartered. Spalted logs, cherry or walnut with a big crotch at the end, anything unique and we will have it sawn just to have (hello, my name is Tom and I like wood). Sometimes it even sells! We simply do not have enough manpower to branch off into full time sawing and lumber selling (sort of a chicken and egg problem really). The solar kiln can dry ~1500-2000 bf in a month and will be a bottleneck if we dive into lumber in a big way.

So I am exploring ways to augment what our bandmiller can already do for us and the main problem is big logs and crotches. Buying a swinger because it is easier to use makes sense but it would not see much time besides with the slabber. We quarter the big ones for the bandmill or slab crotches and occasional table material. Sounds like a chainsaw mill situation to me, but I have read enough about the effort involved to explore the next rung up the ladder. Is there anything a notch or two up that does not require buying an entire swingblade mill? I will talk to Peterson but want to know any other choices you might suggest....

Furby · « **Reply #18 on:** February 22, 2005, 02:17:14 am »

Since moving the logs doesn't seem to be a problem. Could you build or have built (maybe do some trading for the work) a non portable slabber?
Something like a cross between a procut mill and a peterson slabber.
A couple rails leveled and bolted to a concrete pad, a carrige like the procut mill built to the size you need, a big bar, and a 20 some horse engine.
Set the log between the rails and cut away!
You would have to use your grapple to turn the log if you are just quartering it, and would need some kind of clamp or blocking to hold the log after the first split.

Just thought I'd add this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=61788&item=3875734049&rd=1

Fla._Deadheader · « **Reply #19 on:** February 22, 2005, 06:08:31 am »

We built our mill for $5000.00. I have NO doubt that we could build a slabber for under that price. Engine, gearbox, a little lathe work, and mod up the drive sprocket and get a long bar and chain. Frame would be the easiest thing.

UrbanLogger · « **Reply #20 on:** February 22, 2005, 10:49:42 am »

Tom,

Good thread you started here!

The hand winch thingy I'm building is essentially a Logosol "big mill" but I'm making mine out of steel and using bearings on my sliding head instead of the aluminum/plastic setup on Logosol's.

It will be primarily using it for quartering oversize logs. I think you'd be better off with a large capacity alaskan for your table slabs.

We are also watching the pallet rags for a used breakdown saw like this one http://lmsaws.com/chainsawlog.htm

It looks like it would meet your quartering and slabbing needs.

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #21 on:** February 22, 2005, 12:07:34 pm »

NOW we are getting somewhere! Excellent food for thought. Yours is a great idea Furby and Scotts link gives me a picture to work with. You are right, a stationary mill using our truck's grapple might be the ticket.

But Scott, Huskies come in PACKS.

slowzuki · « **Reply #22 on:** February 22, 2005, 12:47:02 pm »

Anyone ever pop a harvestor sprocket on a hydraulic motor, pop an bar on it and use it for slabbing? I can't see dropping 1000$ on a chainsaw just for slabbing.

Ken

Larry · « **Reply #23 on:** February 22, 2005, 01:22:53 pm »

I sorta feel the same way Ken does about a $1,000 chainsaw for slabbing. Lot of good used 18 HP vertical shaft lawn mower engines out there to slap a sprocket on and Baileys will sell any size bar your heart desires.

Doesn't seem like it would take to much welding to come up with a good machine.

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #24 on:** February 22, 2005, 01:34:23 pm »

I wanna join the fun now..
I know 2 strokes have loads of bottom end torque, (ie my cycles) in the power band...A 12 hp horizontal shaft briggs, hmmm, well the displacement is there, now what abut mounting it, with the sprocket directly on the shaft with support bracket bolted to the bar (doubling as tensioner)
Then a light weight frame to set over the log, you could even build a wooden fram if really tight.

This would be a inexpensive log buster for the big boys, thats were I see my value in it.....
I cant hooked some beast yesterday,,,,,,,,,,,,, they just get heavier

Ianab · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2005, 04:30:44 pm »

Sounds like you guys have just re-invented the Peterson Automatic Dedicated slabber

So yes... the idea can be made to work.

The dedicated slabbers I've seen use belt drive to an idler shaft to take strain off the engine bearings, get the gearing right and make it easy to adjust belt / chain tension.

No reason you couldn't use a hydralic motor to drive the chain, look at those big tree harvesting machines for ideas.

sigidi · « **Reply #26 on:** February 22, 2005, 04:59:00 pm »

Same as Lucas dedicated slabber -you get the frames and tracks and the 4 cycle power head connected to a bar and skip chain which can cut 1.5m (5') and this is half the price of the 827.

If you find you are wanting some slabbing done then it is certainly the easiest, but as you mention you might not be doing enough to warrant it - mind you once you have one - you'll use it

iain · « **Reply #27 on:** February 22, 2005, 05:25:20 pm »

I'm looking at a similar prob at the moment (ignore the lack of time issue)
what i want is

twin rail, drop on carrage, 72" in the log, easy up and down, easy portability,etc, etc,etc

so twin rails , clip together stabilizer, drop on carrage, big granberg bar AND either electric motor and genny OR shaft drive motor cycle engine and gear box to spin the chain

i think i can allow upto an hour set up and take down, i got a lot of big stuff to cut up, and i am the mian end user, not got past the planning in my head stage yet

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #28 on:** February 22, 2005, 07:19:03 pm »

Quote from: Ianab on February 21, 2005, 07:46:01 pm

I would still recomend the Peterson with slabber if you are going to do any serious amount of sawing. That will let you quartersaw / flatsaw OR slab practically any log.

Cheers

Ian

Ian,

The Peterson website mentions that the slabber only cuts to 8". I take it this means the thickness of the slab, so what happens if I want to quarter a 45" log? That means I need a 23" depth of cut and it looks to me like the swingblade slabbers don't do that. Am I right?

Ianab · « **Reply #29 on:** February 22, 2005, 08:05:20 pm »

Quote

Ian,

The Peterson website mentions that the slabber only cuts to 8". I take it this means the thickness of the slab, so what happens if I want to quarter a 45" log? That means I need a 23" depth of cut and it looks to me like the swingblade slabbers don't do that. Am I right?

You are right about the depth of cut thing Tom
What I was suggesting was quarter sawing with the swingblade, right off the log without having to move it. The swingblades do a pretty good job at q-sawing without having to split the log up and flip the cants around. You just look at the log and decide if you want to cut 1x8 or 8x1 for each board. Of course you get a bit of rift sawn as well, but so does a bandsaw.

This is assuming you want to get your own mill at some stage, Swingblades are just the thing for oversize logs

If you are just going to do a few logs or want to split stuff up for a normal bandmill, then a beam machine / alaskan / big saw / some sweat is an option.

Cheers

Ian

sigidi · « **Reply #30 on:** February 23, 2005, 01:45:18 am »

Derbyshire Iain,

(Hows the old country?) mate sounds to me like you need a Lucas/Peterson set-up with a dedicated slabber, mind you Lucas is only 60" (ONLY geese that's big enough ain't it?) not the 72" you mentioned.

iain · « **Reply #31 on:** February 23, 2005, 06:47:54 am »

There is one peterson slabber over here to date, only two hundred miles away, and he dont realy use it
the peterson sounds good, but the price of $13,650(us) is more than enough to count me out at the moment, and i need 72" in the log for three oaks at my disposal (with some BIGGER elm to come if the saw works)

iain

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #32 on:** February 24, 2005, 05:45:28 pm »

Quote from: Buzz-sawyer on February 22, 2005, 01:34:23 pm

I know 2 strokes have loads of bottom end torque, (ie my cycles) in the power band...A 12 hp horizontal shaft briggs, hmmm, well the displacement is there, now what abut mounting it, with the sprocket directly on the shaft with support bracket bolted to the bar (doubling as tensioner)
Then a light weight frame to set over the log, you could even build a wooden fram if really tight.

This would be a inexpensive log buster for the big boys, thats were I see my value in it.....

Okay, this is the way I am currently leaning. The Hud-son chainsaw mill is the general design I envision: tracks on the ground and a LARGE ~5' -wide and 5' tall frame over the log with the bar and chain adjustable height-wise. While I am still at the drawing phase, here are a couple design thoughts for your comment:

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT - I am not sure how the height adjustment thing should work. I want to be able to crank from one side and have both sides which hold the bar and motor go up and down on a lockable screw thread. How would you connect the 2 sides to one crank?

ANGLE OF CUT - Most of these chainsaw mills cut straight across the endgrain, but we all know the saw prefers some angle, so I am thinking of a longer bar that can lock into a 10 or 20 degree angle to speed the cutting. I plan on oilers at each end of the bar and probably skiptooth chain.

PUSHING THROUGH THE CUT - Pushing the whole frame and saw through the cut puts the effort on one's legs and back. While still an improvement over armstrong sawing, maybe some kind drive unit to push through the cut would be nice. I am open to your brain's thoughts here. If any swingers out there can convince me that manual walking/pushing through the cuts for a couple of hours is not too much effort, maybe I just attach a push bar to the overhead frame. Or I thought about a drive chain attached to a bicycle pedal gizmo; leg power instead of back/leg powered. Or attach the drive train to another motor, if costs can be kept down and speed controlled. Need help on that idea too. When quartering a fat log, don't you think slipping a few stout wedges in behind the cut would keep the top half's weight from pinching the bar well enough?

MOTOR - We have access to 3 phase power, so an electric motor seems best. How many hp? Source for larger motors? McMaster Carr has a 10hp TEFC for $435. It has 1760 rpm - can anyone more gearheaded than me talk about translating that into the proper chainspeed (sprocket sizes etc.)?

OTHER - Mobility is not an issue. We might be able to get our hands on some RR track, so single flange wheels on RR track for the overhead frame might work well. And I see one or two toe boards on bottle jacks and pointy ended angled bottle jacks for dogging the logs. Hey, this might work!

Again, this setup is for slabbing crotches or large logs and quartering large logs for bandmill quartersawing. Volume would be relatively low, like 2 or 3 logs per week, so I hope to keep costs below $2000, depending on motor size. Can you think of any detail I am overlooking?

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #33 on:** February 24, 2005, 06:03:53 pm »

I have a couple of pics that might help I will search my archives..........

Tom I see motors like that sell for 5-25 dollars at auction.......
Why not use a simple gear motor(1-5hp) and chain to push the saw?

Ianab · « **Reply #34 on:** February 24, 2005, 06:11:59 pm »

Quote

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT - I am not sure how the height adjustment thing should work. I want to be able to crank from one side and have both sides which hold the bar and motor go up and down on a lockable screw thread. How would you connect the 2 sides to one crank?

Two threaded rods, one on each side, sprockets and chain linking the two rods so they run together?

Buzz-sawyer · « **Reply #35 on:** February 24, 2005, 06:27:45 pm »

like he said

or this

TomFromStLouis · « **Reply #36 on:** February 24, 2005, 07:36:47 pm »

Superb!

Can you tell I am not fully in my element with electrical/mechanical design?

The auction idea is good too. Keep 'em coming!

Ironwood · « **Reply #37 on:** February 24, 2005, 07:43:48 pm »

Tom,

  I built a 40' chainsaw mill with 2 flat roof trusses and angle stock. It is suspended over the log and the carriage is adjustable up and down. I can cut 58" across. I built it to make a one-of-a-kind 32' Red Oak bartop for the owner of 84 Lumber. The red oak was an old growth windfall/uproot on our property. My goal is to use electric motors and step up gear boxes to get the chain speed up, I have been using Huskies to run it but hate the smell/noise. The final slab was 32-50" across, weighed 4000lbs and had a 1000lb steel subframe recessed in the underside. It is at Nemacolin Resort and Spa, in Farmington, Pa. People swing in all the time to see the oddities Joe Hardy has collected there. It is in the Seasons Resturant, Woodlands Spa. It was finished in 1998-99.

  I don't know how to post photo's so I will e-mail them to you Tom, Sorry guys I haven't figured that out yet.

   REID

Furby · « **Reply #38 on:** February 24, 2005, 08:55:59 pm »

The offer still stands Reid!

Ironwood · « **Reply #39 on:** February 24, 2005, 10:04:29 pm »

Furby, Thanks, time is soooo precious. I really need to do it though.

Reid

Striker · « **Reply #40 on:** June 26, 2005, 03:48:38 pm »

I guess what really got my intrest in this post is selling table slabs for $200 a piece. Where is the market, and what woods are usable for table tops?

Jeff

Tom · « **Reply #41 on:** June 26, 2005, 04:18:16 pm »

While most woods will sell, ornamental grain has an edge. Outdoor surfaces need a rot resistant quality, but that's the customer's worry.

You need to define a sawing direction that will minimize cracking as well as show off figure.

The hardest part is assigning a "value" to the slab and sticking with it. It is you, the seller/marketeer who creates the market. Just as in many other endeavors where a natural product is being sold, it is as much your job to plant the seed for the use as it is the customer's looking for a solution to a problem. A lot of figured woods are sold because the seller planted the "seed" .

This is why it behooves a sawyer to study the woods in his area and become an expert. The customer must believe you. Pass the customer a bunch of bull and you will be found out in a very short while and lose all of your credibility.

Ianab · « **Reply #42 on:** June 26, 2005, 06:59:29 pm »

Quote

what woods are usable for table tops?

Locally we have different trees to you guys of course, but the best for slab table tops is the more stable softwoods. Lower shrinkage means less likely to warp and check. I cut Monterrey (macrocarpa ) cypress and some smaller Port Orford Cedar which have both dried well. I've seen the local Kauri and Rimu used (selling for $500 per slab off the mill

) , but not been lucky enough to stumble onto any of that yet

. Dont know what you have in your area, but Redwood, and the various cedars / cypress species or some of the larger pines may be good options?

Cheers

Ian

Frank_Pender · « **Reply #43 on:** June 26, 2005, 07:02:20 pm »

Tom, I did your last sentence for 30 years in the classroom. Retired, now for 5 years, I am trying to convert.

News:

Author Topic: slabbers, beam machines, alaskan mills, etc. (Read 2287 times)