This is a follow up on my winch problems. I did get a phone call from the Fransgard No. Amer. Sales Manager. Seemed very knowledgeable, and patient. Apparently he used to work in the woods, so he knows the subject well.
My winch is a 2800, but the larger models are built very similar. So some of what he told me should pertain to those and some stuff to Forestry winches in general.
His advice - keep the ½ moon steel plate the pulley rests and turns on
(“Turning plate”) well greased.
-Lube the cable with grease
-Lube the drive chain with grease
-Don’t transport logs attached to the cable – always use chain
Slots to transport. Possibility of damaging the inards’ –
shaft/bearings - if a log hangs up.
Icing up – He acknowledged that it was possible, but quite uncommon. He questioned me, trying to find the cause. It appears that the clutch was not adjusted properly when I purchased it. He did say that a lot of dealers do not know how to do it correctly. (After adjusting it per his instructions, and comparing it to how it was when new, I strongly agree.) Mine was way too tight which apparently had a lot to do with the ice, and erratic behavior.
He also pointed out that part No. 6, in parts diagram - a bracket at the bottom of the drum - sets the tension, which controls the cable pulling out. The two studs with nuts adjust this. There is a fiber pad on this bracket, and it is possible to get ice here also.
The actual adjusting of the clutch is quite simple, and fast. It is also not much related to the way the instruction book says to do it. I will attempt to explain.
-Loosen the two adjusting bolts and locknuts
-Pull the clutch by the rope (No. 4) all the way up and over until it rests on the “stop”. (The “stop” has no part no. It is a welded piece of steel that sits in the middle that limits the movement, to vertical, of the clutch (arm). Not hard to spot.)
-Now tighten the bolts –snug.
-Tighten the locknuts
-A way to check correctness is - locate the small pin (No. 3) that is inside bottom part of clutch. There are three of them. Looking down from the top, you can only see one. This pin should be between 11 and 12 o’clock, only 1/8 to ¼ inch to the left of top center, when the clutch is up against the “stop”.
It is real simple. If I didn’t explain it well email me and I will try to explain further.
It now is as powerful as its capabilities will allow. Just as important it is a lot easier, and safer to use. The “pull” required on the rope is a lot less than it was.
He said that he was working on a new instruction book.
At any rate, I was grateful to receive his help, and the winch appears to be working without any unusual occurrences.